GD1000 not working --- HELP

Recieved a new GD1000 buck/boost converter from the Shop and wired it according to Waynes diagram here.

J5 to LED+
J6 to LED- and V-
backside V+

Wired an SSC P4 USVOH running off 2 x NimH Duraloops and got nothing! Check the voltage and it was only 0.12V. Batteries and P4 emitter were tested before and are fine.

Solder joints appear fine and was careful not to overhead the board. I am using very thin (24) gauage wire since the converter holes are so small, but don't think that should be an issue.

Emailed Wayne and am awaiting his reply, but it's Sunday night and I'd like to have and answer soon!

Will a GD1000 even drive at that level from only 2 AA's?

You might be asking too much of this driver.

yes it should and has been done successfully here by other members.

I also tried a 14500 and got nothing when wired through the converter. Without the converter it runs fine by direct drive, so something is up with this board I think.

I'm in the same boat as you. I tried a GD1000 for one of my builds and didn't get it to work.

That's good to know. At least it's not me.

I'll wait to see what Wayne says. Did you email him about your problem? Could be a bad batch of converters?

Hill said:

Check the voltage and it was only 0.12V. Batteries and P4 emitter were tested before and are fine.

I am using very thin (24) gauage wire since the converter holes are so small, but don't think that should be an issue.

Click to expand...

How exactly did you check the the voltage? If you powered up the board without load (meaning no LED connected to it) you most likely fried the main IC.

24 guage is not thin at all. I use 26 awg for these board which is more than sufficient.

Of all thoe boards I've used from Wayne, it's been very rare that I've had one DOA but that's not so say it isn't possible.

I powered it up at first without load connected, but my DMM was set to voltage which I thought means no current is passing so it should not kill the board, right? If not, then I guess I killed it.

I tested my MM+ board the same way - just checking voltage without load connected to see how much boost voltage I was getting. No problem there.

Testing without a load can kill some boards including, so it seems, the GD. The problem with some constant current drivers, if I understand them correctly, is that because they measure the current (through one method or another), an open circuit can cause the following:

* IC checks current
* Current = 0
* IC increases voltage to increase current
* Current still = 0
* IC increases voltage further
* Repeat until

That said, I'm not sure if that's entirely correct, anyone who knows more, please chip in.

Hill said:

I powered it up at first without load connected, but my DMM was set to voltage which I thought means no current is passing so it should not kill the board, right? If not, then I guess I killed it.

I tested my MM+ board the same way - just checking voltage without load connected to see how much boost voltage I was getting. No problem there.

Click to expand...

The GD-Driver has no Open-Load protection.

Thanks guys. I guess it's not what I wanted to hear, but at least I know that I screwed up. Add another driver to the graveyard.

Guess I will be ordering another one from the Shop....

Hill said:

Thanks guys. I guess it's not what I wanted to hear, but at least I know that I screwed up. Add another driver to the graveyard.

Guess I will be ordering another one from the Shop....

Click to expand...

PM sent

thanks,
PM replied

Has Sandwich compatible holes.

cmacclel said:

* Minimum Vin: 1.8V
* Maximum Vin: 5.4V​

* Maximum Vout: 5.4V
* Output Regulation: Full Constant current regulation.
* Open Load Protection: No
* Output adjustable: Set by two SMT (0603) resistors.
* Output Current formula: 0.05 / Rsense = Iout
* Efficiency: 85%~93%
* Maximum Output: >1A
* Tallest Component: 3mm
* Compatibility: ECan, Aleph Light Engine, Sandwich
* Diameter: 0.55 inch
* Technology: SMT Components top side only, Battery anode pad backside​

Has Sandwich compatible holes.

Click to expand...

thanks Mac. Learning the hard way.

One more converter joins the graveyard...


On the bright side, this last round of posts has graduated me to an official flashaholic - wohooo!!

You should still have gotten some smoke/smell,
and/or
see some melted part at the IC

no smoke or fire, not even a hint of burning smell. I've experienced that with other boards which would have been an immediate indication of my error.

Only solution is to order another and do it the RIGHT way.

I've fried a few boards myself. Check my sigline. :thinking:

the SS can do the wiring for extra $5,this board is really small especially the wiring holes,anybody knows how to make the dead board alive?

I suspect that resurrecting it would involve replacing the IC, not a trivial task for most people. That is, if it's the chip that's fried. We've got a hot air gun and an SMD oven at work, and that's the only way I can see myself doing it.

Greg G said:

I've fried a few boards myself. Check my sigline. :thinking:

Click to expand...

Only been doing mods for <1 year and I've already got a nice pile of dead converters too, including one maxflex and a Der Witchel buck board, along with a few Crees and P7's (Ouch!). It really sucks when I think of what I could have bought with all that wasted $$$

Components are costly enough without the added