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Does anyone know where I can get one of these? Looked high and low....can't seem to find any info on where to get my hands on this bulb!
Thanks
Thanks
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dano
Flashlight Enthusiast
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Found it at Bright Guy THANKS!
http://www.brightguy.com/detail.tpl?cart=1034413834191462&sku=MAGRX1019
http://www.brightguy.com/detail.tpl?cart=1034413834191462&sku=MAGRX1019
dano
Flashlight Enthusiast
Cool...I was skeptical, but the new bulb is a bit more focused and gives a slightly more refined beam...
--dan
--dan
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Any noticable difference in brightness?
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"Any noticable difference in brightness?"
Yes, about a 15% increase in the two Magchargers that I personally own. I cannot quantify this because I do not own a calibrated, certified light output measuring instrument.
The bulb allows a tighter focus. I removed the WriteRight sheets when previously using the older bulb as reducton in brightness outweighed the benefit of the smoother projected spot.
With the newer bulb and in tightest focus, my two Magchargers produce a yellowish corona. Adding the WriteRight sheet once again eliminated the yellow and the 2 units now provide a smoother, whiter spot.
I have little reason to consider anything else to replace these Magchargers. The bulb and PDA sheet significantly improve the performance of an already strong performer.
When I spoke with customer service at Maglite, they said that the new bulb is now rated at 40K CP, allows for longer run time, and is packaged in the same blister pack as the old bulb and without any reference to the improvement.
Additionally, it was stated by Maglite CS that the new bulbs began shipping from the factory after January 2002.
Yes, about a 15% increase in the two Magchargers that I personally own. I cannot quantify this because I do not own a calibrated, certified light output measuring instrument.
The bulb allows a tighter focus. I removed the WriteRight sheets when previously using the older bulb as reducton in brightness outweighed the benefit of the smoother projected spot.
With the newer bulb and in tightest focus, my two Magchargers produce a yellowish corona. Adding the WriteRight sheet once again eliminated the yellow and the 2 units now provide a smoother, whiter spot.
I have little reason to consider anything else to replace these Magchargers. The bulb and PDA sheet significantly improve the performance of an already strong performer.
When I spoke with customer service at Maglite, they said that the new bulb is now rated at 40K CP, allows for longer run time, and is packaged in the same blister pack as the old bulb and without any reference to the improvement.
Additionally, it was stated by Maglite CS that the new bulbs began shipping from the factory after January 2002.
brightnorm
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2001
- Messages
- 7,160
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">KT,
So Mag has actually developed a more efficient lamp. That is very interesting; they've increased brightness AND runtime. This is the first time I've heard of such a dual increase in an incandecent lamp since I've been on CPF.
At this point we don't "need" brighter light. I suspect that the 500 lumen Surefires provide enough light for almost any law enforcement use. But if increased efficiency eventually permittedsix 123's to pump out those 500 lumens for three or four hours, that would be truly revolutionary.
Brightnorm.
PS, how's the new career going? Do you miss having a more active life?
brightnorm
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2001
- Messages
- 7,160
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I guess if that MC bulb were a real breakthrough we would probably have heard by now. It's good to read your posts, infrequent though they may be.
Brightnorm
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I can substantiate the increased brightness but not the increased run time. Such tests escape the scope of my usage that, largely, has recently been curtailed exponentially. I have yet to use my beloved ASP Taclite this month!
The 155 or so lumens that the Magcharger provides is plenty for 98% of practical, mundane, routine usage and is a good compromise between sheer output and run time. Sure, I would like something in the order of 350 Lumens in a rechargeable flashlight, but not at the cost of reduced run time.
Current platforms and technologies will likely not permit this in the size category of the Magcharger, although the Tigerlight might be headed in that direction. Realistically, 250 Lumens would still be plenty.
The other 2% of public service usage is still reserved for the 2-cell, CR123 lithium battery-powered tactical lights for those special
ocassions.
As far as brighter lights, 500 lumen output from a portable flashlight in the current platforms is akin to carrying a Desert Eagle .50 AE semi-automatic pistol daily. It can be done but would be very uncomfortable and not very practical.
This is the very reason that .44 Magnum handguns are not seen in many numbers in LE organizations. It is an "overkill" for most LE usage. Such is the disposition for the Surefire M6 and 10X Dominator.
Except for the extremely dedicated few on THIS board, those two products will not likely grace the daily-used flashlight inventory of a typical LEO because of the form factor and the skewed output to runtime ratio. As with the .44 Magnum, more is not better. This was a lesson learned years ago.
My activity level has increased as the scope of my new employment has changed somewhat to accomodate my experience and desires. RHIP, I guess.
What has been substantially reduced is the sheer number of travel events via commercial aircraft. I have more time for family life. I am fortunate to have more opportunites now to visit family, however, the amount of time per event has largely decreased. Have I obfuscated that enough?
Previously, I would spend 2-3 days at a time seeing my grandkids 3-4 times a year. Now, I get to see them about 2 hours a week. I don't know which is better; quantity of visits or quality time. Right now, as with any grandparent, I 'll take what I can get.
The 155 or so lumens that the Magcharger provides is plenty for 98% of practical, mundane, routine usage and is a good compromise between sheer output and run time. Sure, I would like something in the order of 350 Lumens in a rechargeable flashlight, but not at the cost of reduced run time.
Current platforms and technologies will likely not permit this in the size category of the Magcharger, although the Tigerlight might be headed in that direction. Realistically, 250 Lumens would still be plenty.
The other 2% of public service usage is still reserved for the 2-cell, CR123 lithium battery-powered tactical lights for those special
As far as brighter lights, 500 lumen output from a portable flashlight in the current platforms is akin to carrying a Desert Eagle .50 AE semi-automatic pistol daily. It can be done but would be very uncomfortable and not very practical.
This is the very reason that .44 Magnum handguns are not seen in many numbers in LE organizations. It is an "overkill" for most LE usage. Such is the disposition for the Surefire M6 and 10X Dominator.
Except for the extremely dedicated few on THIS board, those two products will not likely grace the daily-used flashlight inventory of a typical LEO because of the form factor and the skewed output to runtime ratio. As with the .44 Magnum, more is not better. This was a lesson learned years ago.
My activity level has increased as the scope of my new employment has changed somewhat to accomodate my experience and desires. RHIP, I guess.
What has been substantially reduced is the sheer number of travel events via commercial aircraft. I have more time for family life. I am fortunate to have more opportunites now to visit family, however, the amount of time per event has largely decreased. Have I obfuscated that enough?
Previously, I would spend 2-3 days at a time seeing my grandkids 3-4 times a year. Now, I get to see them about 2 hours a week. I don't know which is better; quantity of visits or quality time. Right now, as with any grandparent, I 'll take what I can get.
Velcro
Enlightened
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">So Mag now has a brighter lamp with longer runtime for one of the world's most popular and extensively used rechargeable flashlights, yet they do not refer to this improvement? That's odd.
Greetings,
Velcro
The Mag Web Site talks about the bulb upgrade:
http://www.maglite.com/rechargeable_upgrade_compare.asp
http://www.maglite.com/rechargeable_upgrade_compare.asp
Jonathan
Enlightened
Remember that an increase in peak beam candlepower is not necessarily an increase in total light output. The more concentrated filament might result in more of the light going into a smaller beam angle, giving a brighter spot with the same amount of light. You might even get a brighter spot with _less_ total light output, which would help give a longer run time
-Jon
-Jon
Can anyone please enlighten me why does the mag charger bulb have this spring like thing at the bottom of the bulb. I notice that the energizer DB 6AA has a similar looking bulb and was wondering if it's a good idea to replace the original bulb with a mag charger bulb?
Nerd:
The form factor of a DB bulb and a Mag charger is the same, except that the mag charger bulb has a slightly shorter filament height from the base.
The mag charger bulb can be slightly overdriven in a DB6AA in (edit)serial with six rechargeable NiMH's. The voltage drop with the AA NiMHs is to acceptable levels around 6.8 V generating more light than in the Mag charger. with 5 cells, the DB6AA will be dimmer than the Mag Charger due to greater voltage drop.
The form factor of a DB bulb and a Mag charger is the same, except that the mag charger bulb has a slightly shorter filament height from the base.
The mag charger bulb can be slightly overdriven in a DB6AA in (edit)serial with six rechargeable NiMH's. The voltage drop with the AA NiMHs is to acceptable levels around 6.8 V generating more light than in the Mag charger. with 5 cells, the DB6AA will be dimmer than the Mag Charger due to greater voltage drop.
Eh? Parallel? that means the mag charger bulb is a 4.5 volt part? Ooh lah! new mod! Thanks lemlux.
Wonder if Carley Lamps or W/A has any bulbs similar to this for a even more powerful mod. If I didn't remember wrongly, you did a 285 lumens mod right? Using 6 CR123s? 9 volts? Which part was that?
Wonder if Carley Lamps or W/A has any bulbs similar to this for a even more powerful mod. If I didn't remember wrongly, you did a 285 lumens mod right? Using 6 CR123s? 9 volts? Which part was that?
The 285 Lumen Mod was using a Mag 2C with 4 @ CR123's and a Ceramic potted Carley #808 Xenon 9.6 V 1.20 A 20 hour bulb.
I'm not sure as to whether you're interested in modding the Mag Charger or the DB6AA given your question.
I'm not sure as to whether you're interested in modding the Mag Charger or the DB6AA given your question.
Eh the DB6AA, after getting that DB 6aa, I ain't got leftovers to get a 2C mag....ah.. some of the things that student flashaholics do.... save up lunch money for the delight and pleasure of seeing a super bright light..
did I mention how I shocked my mom last night when she entered my room? I flashed the DB6aa at her and she complain of flashes in her eyes for nearly 10 mins... and the best part was the facial expression that gets burned into my retinal, you can see at that very exact moment how her face was shocked...... and it's not like there is no light from outside... wonder how would the db be like after the mod... haha
did I mention how I shocked my mom last night when she entered my room? I flashed the DB6aa at her and she complain of flashes in her eyes for nearly 10 mins... and the best part was the facial expression that gets burned into my retinal, you can see at that very exact moment how her face was shocked...... and it's not like there is no light from outside... wonder how would the db be like after the mod... haha
Nerd:
Are you sure you want to read the following?
I've had spotty success converting DB6AA's and DB8AA's to serial without major surgery. This is because the spring orientation is finicky and mods mods throw off the balanced squeeze of the twin bow-legged springs on the switch assembly that reach down into the twin barrell inserts at the bottom of the head. Also, this imbalance can shift the switch inside the switch/socket assembly just enough so that the switch becomes inoperable or intermittently operable.
Nonetheless, here goes:
1. Take off the bezel
2. remove the 2 screws holding in the switch/socket assembly.
3. See if your DB6AA is the old type (positive battery terminal connector is recessed in a concave depression on the bottom outside of the head.) or new type (battery terminal is raised on flat, flush bottom surface.)
Spring Connector Configuration
In stock serial parallel, the two brass colored (coated) screws that connect to the base touch the doubled up negative contact spring in the center of the bottom of the switch / socket assembly.
Each of the long bow-legged springs slide against the contact strips in the head insert tubes.
4. Cover one of the two positive connector springs on the socket/switch assembly with insulating tape.
5. straighten and bend the negative doubled up spring so that it conforms to the shape of the inside of the newly insulated positive spring.
Cover that portion of the former negative contact spring that may still contact the two brass coated springs with insulation tape.
Reassemble the light.
Figure out what trimming or inserting of contact metal is necessary to make the reversed battery caddy negative battery end touch the contact at the base of the head. It may be simplest to cut off the back 1/4" or so of the caddy to expose the battery. (Otherwise, a cutoff positive nipple spring from a dead P60, P61, P90, or P91 fits perfectly as a temporary insert into the caddy)
If you're lucky, the light will work the first time. If not, you'll have to reopen and play with the springs. I got some to work by jamming foil into the inside bottom tube end of the newly negative tube to ensure contact. Use too much foil and the switch gets misaligned.
The above is why I kept the ones successfully configured that worked. I then removed the springs on many of the initial rejects to solder leads between the bottom terminals of the barrel inserts and the switch assembly. The problem here is that the leads are so long that they want to get in the way when the switch assembly is reassembled. Sometimes the switch is tweaked.
Those DB's where I damaged the switch/socket assembly will eventually be the ones with totally new guts: switch - W/A ceramic base -- recharging port -- and Carley Reflector.
Be nimble -- don't be quick. The real key is to get the center negative contact to make good contact where the newly insulated positive contact remains.
If you do your DB6AA mod, you should find that 5 Alkalines and a dummy should overdrive the stock DB8AA 5.5 V 0.70 A bulb nicely to about 6.0 volts, 110 Lumen and 6 hour bulb life. W/A doesn't have a bulb that would work well with 6 alkalines. I have a bunch of DB8AA bulbs I've pulled out.
If you don't rewire the DB6AA try running 3 @ CR123's plus an alkaline AA plus a 17mm dummy or foil plug on each side along with a 9.0 V 1.1 A W/A bulb. This setup runs at about 9.2 V and 260 Lumen at just over 10 Watts for about 2 1/2 hours. (I have extra 17 mm dummies made by Klaus) This is my favorite DB setup for combination of brightness, run time, reflector survivability, and non-rechargeable batteries.
The DB you really should have is an unmodded DB8AA with a W/A 4.8 V 1.1 A bulb. These run considerably brighter (roughly 136 Lumens) than a Surge on alkalines. This is my favorite serial/parallel DB alkaline set up.
Are you sure you want to read the following?
I've had spotty success converting DB6AA's and DB8AA's to serial without major surgery. This is because the spring orientation is finicky and mods mods throw off the balanced squeeze of the twin bow-legged springs on the switch assembly that reach down into the twin barrell inserts at the bottom of the head. Also, this imbalance can shift the switch inside the switch/socket assembly just enough so that the switch becomes inoperable or intermittently operable.
Nonetheless, here goes:
1. Take off the bezel
2. remove the 2 screws holding in the switch/socket assembly.
3. See if your DB6AA is the old type (positive battery terminal connector is recessed in a concave depression on the bottom outside of the head.) or new type (battery terminal is raised on flat, flush bottom surface.)
Spring Connector Configuration
In stock serial parallel, the two brass colored (coated) screws that connect to the base touch the doubled up negative contact spring in the center of the bottom of the switch / socket assembly.
Each of the long bow-legged springs slide against the contact strips in the head insert tubes.
4. Cover one of the two positive connector springs on the socket/switch assembly with insulating tape.
5. straighten and bend the negative doubled up spring so that it conforms to the shape of the inside of the newly insulated positive spring.
Cover that portion of the former negative contact spring that may still contact the two brass coated springs with insulation tape.
Reassemble the light.
Figure out what trimming or inserting of contact metal is necessary to make the reversed battery caddy negative battery end touch the contact at the base of the head. It may be simplest to cut off the back 1/4" or so of the caddy to expose the battery. (Otherwise, a cutoff positive nipple spring from a dead P60, P61, P90, or P91 fits perfectly as a temporary insert into the caddy)
If you're lucky, the light will work the first time. If not, you'll have to reopen and play with the springs. I got some to work by jamming foil into the inside bottom tube end of the newly negative tube to ensure contact. Use too much foil and the switch gets misaligned.
The above is why I kept the ones successfully configured that worked. I then removed the springs on many of the initial rejects to solder leads between the bottom terminals of the barrel inserts and the switch assembly. The problem here is that the leads are so long that they want to get in the way when the switch assembly is reassembled. Sometimes the switch is tweaked.
Those DB's where I damaged the switch/socket assembly will eventually be the ones with totally new guts: switch - W/A ceramic base -- recharging port -- and Carley Reflector.
Be nimble -- don't be quick. The real key is to get the center negative contact to make good contact where the newly insulated positive contact remains.
If you do your DB6AA mod, you should find that 5 Alkalines and a dummy should overdrive the stock DB8AA 5.5 V 0.70 A bulb nicely to about 6.0 volts, 110 Lumen and 6 hour bulb life. W/A doesn't have a bulb that would work well with 6 alkalines. I have a bunch of DB8AA bulbs I've pulled out.
If you don't rewire the DB6AA try running 3 @ CR123's plus an alkaline AA plus a 17mm dummy or foil plug on each side along with a 9.0 V 1.1 A W/A bulb. This setup runs at about 9.2 V and 260 Lumen at just over 10 Watts for about 2 1/2 hours. (I have extra 17 mm dummies made by Klaus) This is my favorite DB setup for combination of brightness, run time, reflector survivability, and non-rechargeable batteries.
The DB you really should have is an unmodded DB8AA with a W/A 4.8 V 1.1 A bulb. These run considerably brighter (roughly 136 Lumens) than a Surge on alkalines. This is my favorite serial/parallel DB alkaline set up.
