Eagletac T10C vs P10C

I'm looking for a replacement of my current EDC (Liteflux LF5XT), and, among a couple of other lights, i'm considering the T10C and P10C, apart from the dimensions (T10C slightly larger) does anyone knows the practical difference between them ? The T10C seems to have 8mm wider and 5mm longer reflector.
Do they tailstand ?

The T10 gives a slightly wider spill diameter, at a small expense of throw. Yes, both will tailstand.

thanks, are you sure ? i thought the deeper and wider a reflector is, the more throw it has.

Yeah I have a T10C(actually selling it) and it has more throw than the P10. The bigger reflector is more effcient but "harder" for EDC.

From the website the only difference I can see is the one you mentioned. And the T10 does throw better. Hmmm, I wonder if that justifies the 7 dollars difference.

i'll take the p10c. i don't see much of a difference anyways..

CNR said:

thanks, are you sure ? i thought the deeper and wider a reflector is, the more throw it has.

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That's what I saw when I measured them before. I just now looked at light-reviews.com and noticed they measured the P10C at 5100 lux, and the T10C at 5060 lux. For grins, I tested one of each again tonight, and the P10C measured 5150 lux, and the T10C measured 5400 lux. I think it's pretty much hit or miss, and they're both fairly equal. The T10C definitely has a wider circle of light, but even that isn't much different than the P10C... but is wider.

OK, i guess then it's more an issue of which one's look you like better.

Thanks all, esp. FlashCrazy for the trouble you went into, to check again .

FroggyTaco: Why you sell it, if i may ask ?

FroggyTaco, are you still selling the T10C ?

I actually sold it last week in the MP. The new owner should get it today actually.

I sold it because I am moving from the CR123 format to the 18650 format.

FroggyTaco said:

I actually sold it last week in the MP. The new owner should get it today actually...

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Actually, I received the T10C from FroggyTaco yesterday and am extremely pleased with it! I already had a P10C and really liked that light but sometimes I found it a bit difficult to use due to its relatively stiff clicky combined with the minimal body knurling and smooth tail section design. This issue might be overcome with the simple addition of an external O-ring at the tail-body transisition but I haven't gotten around to trying that out yet. The T10C is much better in this regard due to the extended knurling pattern on the body as well as the more substantial body-tail lip transition that allows for easy cigar-style holding and thumb activation. Even though the relative stiffness of the clicky seems to be identical on both lights, the "stiffness" on the T10C is a non-issue for me due to the body/tail design difference. Others have already noted further differences between these two models. All-in-all, both are thoughtfully designed, rugged little lights, IMO. Interestingly, both models have been out-of-stock everywhere I have looked for a while now. Wonder if new or revised designs are in the works?...the Shot Show is only a week away...Hmmmmm.....

If you happen to have a P20A2 lying around, pop the head onto to T10c. Smaller head makes for easier EDC :thumbsup:

Re: EagleTac T10C vs P10C

HSG said:

If you happen to have a P20A2 lying around, pop the head onto to T10C. Smaller head makes for easier EDC :thumbsup:

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Wow!...a "best of both world's" execution indeed, HSG, and good to know! Unfortunately, no P20A2 in collection...the only other EagleTac I own is the T100C MK II. I did try the putting the P10C head on the T10C body while writing that previous post but the heads aren't interchangeable (at least not easily and I didn't want to force it and ruin either light). I really like the look of the flared T10C head but I agree with you that the P10C and your modified T10C/P20A2 version would be easier to pocket EDC.

Triac:
Do you find the beam differences significant ?
I mean, when you use the T10C do you notice the difference from the P10C ?
Hmm...when you say "stiff", how stiff is that ? is it possible in an emergency to have to try twice to turn it on, because of the light slipping in your palm ?

CNR - Because these are forward clicky switches, the partial depress for momentary ON has never been a problem for me. I have found the additional pressure needed on my P10C to fully click it ON can cause it to slip in my hand if I am not gripping it tightly enough. Now, I also have to qualify things a bit...my hands/fingers are probably slightly larger than average. The "cigar grip" holding style and thumb activation of the buttom didn't work for me with the P10C due to slipage of the light body between my index and middle finger or my thumb was just too big to get past and down into the tailstanding portion of the tail at certain thumb angles. As such, I would normally hold the light with the tips of my thumb and middle finger and activate the clicky with my index finger. Yes, a few times I have found that I either could not or did not apply enough pressure on the clicky to fully active the switch and had to regrip and tighten my grip on the small body section to retry to click it fully on. Anyway, late last night I found an O-ring that allows me to activate the P10C clicky consistently now with either aforementioned grip. This O-ring partially "rolls" along the body/tail flashlight surface when my fingers are pulling on it during button activation (which will still take some getting used to) but my grip does not fully slip anymore. The O-ring only rolls back where my fingers contact it and this distance is about equal to the thickness of this O-ring (approx. 2 mm). Full rolling of the O-ring is limited because it fits snuggly against the underside of the clip in its "proper" position (at the joint of the tail and body sections). Since the space between the clip and tail narrows right at this body-tail joint, the already snug fit of the part of the O-ring that is under the clip prevents its movement and limits the maximum movement of the rest of the O-ring to whatever its particular elastic properties happen to be, (i.e., you want a less elastic O-ring for this application) I happened to find this particular O-ring in an assortment that I had obtained some time ago from the plumbing section of Home Depot!). Regarding the T10C (even given the limited time of ownership), clicky stiffness, slippage/missed full activation are non-issues, due to its specific body and tail/tailcap design. No problem for me with either grip.

Regarding beam differences, even though both lights are fully regulated and I don't think it should make a significant difference either way, I am currently recharging batteries right now so I can make sure I am comparing fairly (matching brand, capacity and age of batteries). I will reconfirm my initial white wall beam impressions and also compare both beams outside, after dark (the best time of the day!). I will try to post again later this evening and will happily share my personal, albeit subjective observations.

HSG - BTW, do you know if the stock P20A2 head/emitter/light engine will run with 3.7V RCR123's or just 3.0V Primaries? Also, I like the extra knurling on the P20A2 head for changing from low to high (general to turbo).

Triac:

Great, thanks.
About the beam differences, i was wondering if the wider spil of the T is noticably better in short/med range, eg. indoors or when walking in the dark, so you don't have to move around the light as much to see; As for the brightness, for all i know they have the same engine/led, so if any difference, i'd expect it to be random.

I believe the P20A2 is designed to work on 3V max.
look here: http://www.eagletac.com/flashlights/p20a2.html

they only talk for rechargables (AA 1.2V obviously) or 1.5V Lithiums (Energizer L91)
I've heard other members running lights in higher voltage than the specified but i think always that came with a cost (in engine/led's lifespan or other) and in this case we're talking for 40% higher V (3.0V to 4.2V) may be fine, or may be not.
BTW, if you want to use rechargables, maybe you could try to run it on a 3.0V CR123 rechargable, i've been told from members who use them, that they get around 3.6V fully charged, which is only 20% higher V, but do a little search before, maybe someone has tried it before you in here.

I use battery station cr123s which are 3v. I've actually never used rechargeable 123s.

CNR & HSG, thanks for feed back on the 3.0 voltage limit of P20A2 head, which is what I expected. I invested in 16340's so all my small lights need to be able to do handle the 3.6 - 4.2 V range. I looked into the 3.0/3.2 V LiFePO4 safe chemistry rechargeable 16340, but am sticking with 3.7V protected 16340 & 18650's, at least for now.

Both the P10C and T10C that I now have are the "Production ET689" versions. My 16340's came off my charger at 4.10 V each so both lights were equally powered. Although the same neutral white emitter is used in each light (XR-E Q5), the tints in my two lights are noticeably different (tint lottery?). Even recognizing that tint and brightness are subjective and perception based, I found the P10C to be warmer and the T10C to be cooler. Putting them side by side, I start seeing the warmer P10C beam showing a hit of green and the cooler T10C showing a hit of purple. Neither was offensive but my preference runs to the cooler side of the spectrum. Most of the other differences I noted are fairly marginal to me as well but I note them for whatever its worth.

The hotspot created by the P10C appears to be just a bit larger than the T10C and its intensity appears fairly uniform across the hotspot. If anything, the very center point of the hotspot might be slightly less intense than the rest of it. The T10C has a slightly smaller hotspot that transitions smoothly to peak brightness at the centerpoint. This translated outside to further throw than its P-series counterpart. However, the more uniform and slightly larger hotspot of the P10C was more useful/pleasant to me when pointing each light 5 - 15 feet ahead of me while walking.

After viewing the Spill Comparison photo of both T- and P- beams in Light-Reviews' T10C Review, I anticipated seeing a noticably wider spill pattern for the T10C as compared to the P10C. Side spill is slightly larger and slightly brighter (could be just the tint difference effect though) with the T10C but not what I would characterize as significant especially while I was outside and am moving around.

Thanks :thumbsup: that was exactly the info i was looking for;
After seeing the reviews in Light-Reviews, i had the fear that the bulkier T would be much better in low/mid range use, but now i see that this is not the case.