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hth said:
Doug Owen, many thanks for your response. Can I clarify that each Luxeon will need its own (50V+) doide bridge with its own (22ohm for 350mA drain, I understand Ohms Law /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) resistor and that each Luxeon/bridge "component" can be run in parallel with the transformer output? As you know, garden lights are always wired up in parallel so that in case one bulb blows, the other lights are still lit.
Also, if I add say a second/third/forth Luxeon/bridge "component" to my garden light circuit, I would effectively have half/third/quartered the current flowing through each "component"... would I need to change the 22 ohm resistance in each "component" to reflect this or is that 22 ohm resistance for the desired current output to the Luxeon. Given that total current is lower now, surely I would need to change/lower that resistance? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
You suggested 2 Luxeons in series, I presume for each "component"? You (if I read correctly) advised against it yourself with your increase efficiency statement with a caveat of a potential high increase in current due to voltage fluctuations. If I use 1 Luxeon in each "component", then your statement can be ignored (but noted)?
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That's right. I'm suggesting treating the bridge rectifier, luxeon and resistor as a single component. It goes in parallel in the system, just like the standard yard lights.
Adding a second Luxeon to 'the unit' puts it in series (at least as I was thinking) meaning the voltage across the resistor is lower (by the voltage across the second LED), so we'll need a lower value. We also enjoy a doubling of light output for the same total energy used. In this case, as in all series circuits, the current is the *same* in each component, voltage gets distributed (in parallel, voltage is the same for each component, current gets distributed). You can put a second LED in parallel with the first (and lower the resistor) but I wouldn't . I'd use a second resistor for the second LED in this case (series is another matter, of course). You do need a higher current bridge rectifier (although 1.5 Amp units are very common, more than enough). Vfs don't match all that well, I'm more comfortable with separate current limit resistors lest one LED get greedy (or the other gets lazy) and the magic smoke comes out. The remaining one then is double driven, and follows suit. A second resistor is cheap insurance (or go with two in series).
I used 'bridge rectifier' to search with, let me know if you have trouble.
Not to sweat too many of the fine points here. You can safely do the math with RMS values as they represent true heat delivered over time, which is what we're worried about, right?
Doug Owen