Sold/Expired Feeler: Ti 3pc SF-III.

I've been asked by many members in the past in present about making a Ti light. Well, since I've made many variations of my custom lights, I thought about doing this with the SF-III as I plan to end this series. I am going to use the old 3pc design.

To get the best possible price, I have checked material pricing both here in Japan and found that it would cost way too much. The price of the Ti was 1.6 times more, plus shipping to TNC via express mail and getting hit with customs. Labor here in Japan is also an extreme. Purchasing the materials through TNC, having him machine and mill the parts and shipping them here for assembly is the most cost effective method.

Ti is a bad heat conductor. With this in mind, I will have to either underive the LED in order for it to last its full life or have you use it in short runs. The LED used will be the Ostar SMT and will have 3 levels of light just like the current run of the black HA III SF-III's. However, I will include two reflectors, one for a spot and one for a flood. This run will be for a combat grip only with the anti roll tailcap and scalloped bezel pictured in the black SF-III run.

In order to make this run work, I will need pre-payment. I will also need minimum ten people to sign up here on this thread. The pre-pay price for ten is $1050.00. If I can get twenty five people to sign up, the price will drop by $100.00. For those on the black HA III SF-III run may switch over to the Ti run but will need Paypal for the difference. Lead time will be ten weeks after ending the pre-pay. If you are into brighter high performance lights, then I advise you get on the black SF-III run but if you want the Holy Grail of the SF-III light, then this is for you.

ARC mania

I am interest to switch from Black to this TI SF III

I will opt for the Ti instead

This will be one of the most respected collectable lights out there. Mike's high quality electronic innards combined with the prestige of a Ti shell. Can't hesitate on this one, as i presume they will go fast.

WOW!!!!

Cant want to see that light Mike!

This will be a true collector!!!

Are we talking about switching in the actual black run or a complately new run?

I'm currently really completely and can't participate. I would not want to switch the black with an Ostar 15W, as I want that light as powerfull as it can be feeding it with 2 x IMR

A new run would be highly interesting, I'm a titanium fan, but I just can't participate by now... Underdriving the LED is obviously the best way to go, depending on how much has to be cut off on high. I love my SF-III SMT for its sheer power and nice beam and I don't think I'll ever use it on high for longer periods of time. I could imagine raising low and medium a little bit and leaving high for intermittent use too... :thinking:

Mike,

you know I really would like this light, as the design is still the most beautiful in my eyes.

But the combat grip the anti roll tailcap are making this decisison really hard, as in my opinion these two options do completely destroy the clean look of this wonderful light.

I also would prefer the Ostar 15W even I know about the heat conduction problems.
But as I am using this light for short moments only, this would not affect me.

If you could make these three options available I am in for sure!

Jochen

There has to be a choice made up on the Ti SF-III's. Just asked TNC if he would do 5pcs of each and he said no. 10pcs of each is a go. Please let me know which you prefer on this post or take a poll. I was thinking on my own when I said combat grip only.

Also, I will offer both the 15 watt ostar in an underdriven state (same as the earlier run) and Ostar SMT at full power. But again, this will be for intermittent use only. For those that want to make this a useful light, I will offer a Nichia NCSW119T LED rated at 160 lumens per watt driven at 2 watts. Hope this helps in your descision making. This is going to be the Mercedes of all ti lights

ARC mania

I need a useful ligtht for EDC.
I do have the X6 for use on full power OSTAR 15 W.
Please sign me in for switch from Black SF III Ostar 15 w to a usefull TI SF III w / 3 levels for use with a protected 18650 / 2x cr123

ZeissOEM2 said:

I need a useful ligtht for EDC.
I do have the X6 for use on full power OSTAR 15 W.
Please sign me in for switch from Black SF III Ostar 15 w to a usefull TI SF III w / 3 levels for use with a protected 18650 / 2x cr123

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I NEED neither of them, but you made me think twice what I really WANT! :thinking:

The SF-III SMT from the last run is my most powerfull light and it's really, really great. Normally I'm not the power-guy and I wonder if the 6-die will really be THAT brighter than the SMT. In fact, the idea of a non-square emitter puts me somewhat off, as a homogenous beam is impossible.

A titanium SF-III with an exotic one-die emitter (sorry, I don't know that Nichia beast...) seems really to be a better idea, if it really runs regulated on an 18650, which is the optimal power supply for a light of that size. One you are into rechargeables, you love the 18650 and preffer it over 2 x RCR123 as it contains more power and is safer.

Mike, I'll also switch to the Titanium!!! :twothumbs
I rust you on the LED choice, you knew why to preffer the Ostar SMT over teh Cree MC-E and you surely know why to preffer that Nichia over a Cree XP-G. What about the tint on the Nichia? A little bt more to teh neutral sie perhaps? :huh:

I'll PM for more details! lovecpf

ARC mania said:

If you are into brighter high performance lights, then I advise you get on the black SF-III run but if you want the Holy Grail of the SF-III light, then this is for you.

ARC mania

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BRASS for Brass, Ti for GI

ARC mania said:

There has to be a choice made up on the Ti SF-III's. Just asked TNC if he would do 5pcs of each and he said no. 10pcs of each is a go. Please let me know which you prefer on this post or take a poll. I was thinking on my own when I said combat grip only.

Also, I will offer both the 15 watt ostar in an underdriven state (same as the earlier run) and Ostar SMT at full power. But again, this will be for intermittent use only. For those that want to make this a useful light, I will offer a Nichia NCSW119T LED rated at 160 lumens per watt driven at 2 watts. Hope this helps in your descision making. This is going to be the Mercedes of all ti lights

ARC mania

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If TnC can pull off that beautiful traverse knurling on 6/4 Titanium (same pitch, of course)...you would have the Bugatti Veyron of Ti lights...never mind the Mercedes thing...(Mercedes is to Europe as Chevrolet is to the USA) oo:

TranquillityBase said:

If TnC can pull off that beautiful traverse knurling on 6/4 Titanium (same pitch, of course)...you would have the Bugatti Veyron of Ti lights...never mind the Mercedes thing...(Mercedes is to Europe as Chevrolet is to the USA) oo:

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There's actually something above Mercedes since a few years, coming out of teh same house however : Maybach!

Mike will build us the Mayback Exelero of flashlights, I'm sure! :wave:

What exactly is that traverse knurling you are speaking about? have you got an example? The most beautifull titanium knurling I have seen until now is the one on the LF2XT (Kuku427), but I haven't seen much I suppose... :candle:

Henk_Lu said:

What exactly is that traverse knurling you are speaking about? have you got an example? The most beautifull titanium knurling I have seen until now is the one on the LF2XT (Kuku427), but I haven't seen much I suppose... :candle:

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The body of the original SF III is a beautiful example of what a knurling tool can produce (when set-up correctly)...The knurling tool must traverse the length of the part, when an unbroken knurl pattern is desired, and the length of the knurled part is wider/longer than the width of the knurling tool's wheels/cutters.

I'm in! No passing up a Ti offering from MJ, especially the venerable SFIII in Ti!!!
The SF series is one of the lights that led me down the customs trail a number of years ago and after using a few different versions, it still endures as one of my favorites. Great design and great functionality and although emitter technology has made leaps and bounds since the first SFI sporting a Lux emitter, it is still a great, proven platform that can be adapted to the newer generation emitters.

I am fine with the either the combat or regular grip, both look great and feel great in the hand, with a bit more heft from the regular grip because of more material.
A must for me though is the anti-roll tail cap which adresses the only gripe that I have with the original design, it likes to roll away when placed on an uneven surface, but the anti-roll design that Mike has been using (since the MaxliteI I believe) solves this.
Some say the anti-roll tail takes away from the overall clean design of the light, and I agree to a degree, but to me, what it loses in aesthetics, it makes up for in function, and that is what has always attracted me to Mike's work, design elements that are driven by function and purpose and not to just look cool, but in the end you have a great lighting tool that does its job very well, and it looks cool!!!

Call it a Veyron or a Maybach, this will be one badass light, and after knowing Mike's work over the years and having over a dozen of his lights in that time and also knowing a Maybach inside and out (not the Exelero but a 62) because I drive one everyday at work, I am more than confidant that it will live up to that level of luxury as a pinnacle of craftsmanship, a light for the ages, a Grail light.
Mike, its about time!

1. I'm in for one with the standard grip and possibly the Nichia NCSW119T.

2. I would also like to switch over from the Pre-payment for the HAIII black SF-III, Combat grip list: serial #1 - proline.

3. Serial # 1 (if you are serial numbering these).

4. ARC mania "For those that want to make this a useful light, I will offer a Nichia NCSW119T LED rated at 160 lumens per watt driven at 2 watts."

6. "Here are pictures of the Nichia NCSW119T(One in the middle). There seems to be no bond wire as you can see and produces a perfcet beam with no artifacts. The die is smaller than the one in the XP-G. So for those wanting a useable, dependable, long life ti SF-III here's your best choice."

7. Well, which ever is the brightest and can be run on high without over heating and an 18650 and/or two RCR123's is fine with me...

proline: Yes, these will have a serial number as from 1/10 to 10/10 so you know for sure that 10 units were ever made. I guess this would make these ti SF-III's a true collector's item. Also, you can switch over to the ti version.

Here are pictures of the Nichia NCSW119T(One in the middle). There seems to be no bond wire as you can see and produces a perfcet beam with no artifacts. The die is smaller than the one in the XP-G. So for those wanting a useable, dependable, long life ti SF-III here's your best choice.

Left to right: NCSW136TE, NCSW119T, XP-G





Driving an Ostar SMT at spec will only be good for about 3 minutes before turning angry blue..... Same with the under driven 15 watt Ostar. Will be able to get a longer runtime with the Ostar SMT without turning angry blue with a drive current of 450ma to 500ma. The under-driven 15 watter will have to be driven even lower. Will get back again soon.

ARC mania

Wil these fit a 18650 battery?

grail light! SF III in TITANIUM.

Trust Mike would have the ideal LED for this light. I wouldnt be suprised if he got some very rare unobtainable led for this project.

I m still considering if I should switch to this... hmm... too many good stuff too little $$

Mike, perhaps you should write a interest list, so it would show up a little clearer... :thumbsup: