Best LED head, factory or aftermarket, for a SF scout?

I have a SF Scout with a standard incan lamp and a tape switch. I'm planning to replace the tape switch with a Z68 clicky and LED head. (if anyone wants the tape switch and incan head, PM me)

Questions -

1. I have an extra E1B and was thinking about just robbing the head and switch off that - would that hurt anything? Obviously the E1B is on cell and the Scout is a two cell... what will happen?

2. Failing that, I am planning to just get the Z68 and KX2C, which I would imagine should work perfectly... unless...

Are there any aftermarket heads with more power/better throw/better battery life/allow use of the 18650s?

I used to be really into lights, but after a 3 year break ( I have 3 year old twin boys... coincidence?) ... my how things have changed!

THANKS!

try the TLS heads, I like them better compared to the SF replacement heads.

No idea who TLS is or where to buy...?

But I would like to take a look at any options. Links?

Go to OpticsHQ to check out the TLS heads. I think you will kill your E1B head if you try running it on 2 cells. I'm not sure but I think a 17670 rechargeable may have a little too much voltage for the head. Try searching E1B rcr or rechargeable.

You might also consider getting an E2C adapter and then you should be able to use any Surefire P or C series bezel or clone and a P60 drop-in module.

For the smallest and the absolute brighterst from a E-series bezel, which your scout light is.

Get a Malkoff VME head (bezel) and then drop-in a 480 lumen MC-E or M30, or M60, or M60WF...the list goes on and on. You will just have trouble deciding because of the various Malkoff drop-ins that fit.

http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/...ad-p-67.html?zenid=d5lpvpj5d5s663i73adgn7d0q4


Oh and you have an E-series light. Thus, you can put any E-series head on your scout body. Here is the thread with many options are discused and showed off.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/234418

here are the links to the TLS head for 2x CR123 on opticshq, you might be able to find better price in the CPF market place:

single stage:
http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/m...L-TLS-TX2-1&Category_Code=Surefire-LED-Lights

dual stage (i haven't used this one)
http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/m...L-TLS-TX2-2&Category_Code=Surefire-LED-Lights

Exactly what I was looking for, many thanks -

Are there any adapters/heads that would yield a similar effect to the TK30 on a smaller scale? I like the TK30 for the throw, but the reflector is a bit big - somthing that split the difference, ran 200-250 lumens and had 100 yards of throw with a 2.5-3 hours run time would be ideal.

Off to check those links... thanks again!

Glad to be back - lovecpf

horizonseeker said:

here are the links to the TLS head for 2x CR123 on opticshq, you might be able to find better price in the CPF market place:

single stage:
http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/m...L-TLS-TX2-1&Category_Code=Surefire-LED-Lights

dual stage (i haven't used this one)
http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/m...L-TLS-TX2-2&Category_Code=Surefire-LED-Lights

Click to expand...

Those heads are huge compared to a KT1 and VME bezel and you can't upgrade them. With the Malkoff VME you can use any P60 drop-in. There are hundreds of options and you can lego or upgrade as you see fit. You do need a Mini Mag lens if you decide to use non-Malkoff Surefire P60 drop-ins. Plus, if it is on a weapon Malkoff makes his modules specifically for them shootgun shooter too.

You can also use an E to C adaptor to use any P60 drop-in, but your bezel becomes enourmous, which I bet you don't want from a weaponlight.

bigc

horizonseeker said:

here are the links to the TLS head for 2x CR123 on opticshq, you might be able to find better price in the CPF market place:

single stage:
http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FL-TLS-TX2-1&Category_Code=Surefire-LED-Lights

dual stage (i haven't used this one)
[URL="http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FL-TLS-TX2-2&Category_Code=Surefire-LED-Lights"]http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FL-TLS-TX2-2&Category_Code=Surefire-LED-Lights[/URL]

Click to expand...

Outstanding. What kind of switch would one use with the dual stage? I usually prefer to keep weapon light simple as possible, but 30/220 is tempting.

What sort of throw do those offer? I would like to have at least 100 yards. I often times have to work in rural areas and drive home through PITCH BLACK conditions. I was looking at the Fenix TK30 but these are intriguing options.

bigchelis said:

You can also use an E to C adaptor to use any P60 drop-in, but your bezel becomes enourmous, which I bet you don't want from a weaponlight.

bigc

Click to expand...

Actually - I like the very small body of the scout, but I don't mind a larger bezel for better throw - not huge, but 1.5-2" = just fine if the performance from a throw/lumen/run time standpoint justified it.

PS - for the time being - will using the E1B head/clicky on a 2 cell scout hurt anything? Will the head regulate itself to 80 lumens and just run longer or could it damage something?

pangris1 said:

Actually - I like the very small body of the scout, but I don't mind a larger bezel for better throw - not huge, but 1.5-2" = just fine if the performance from a throw/lumen/run time standpoint justified it.

PS - for the time being - will using the E1B head/clicky on a 2 cell scout hurt anything? Will the head regulate itself to 80 lumens and just run longer or could it damage something?

Click to expand...

The Scout body uses 2 CR123 right? If so, you are out of luck. The E1b bezel I had flickered with a single rechargeable 3v li-on cr123. You could fit a 17670 in the Scout body, but your E1b may flicker.

Here is an E to C adaptor


With the Malkoff VME head you don't need such monstrosity anymore.
Here is the VME head with the same P60 drop-in from above, but at nearly 1in shorter and alot slimmer

Does the VME head come with a lense? it is designed to use the Malkoff drop in which has its own lense, but if you want to use any other P60 drop in, you will need a lense to cover the front.

pangris1:
it seems to me that the TLS heads are decent throwers, but since I live in the urban jungle, it's hard for me to say how far it will throw with so much ambient light.

I'm leaning toward the TLS - the question is - which switch? The 2 stage 220/30 is interesting to be sure, but I'm trying to figure out which switch to use with that set up, and how it would actually work - click twice for high? twice for low?

What switch is suggested for such a set up?

75-100 yards of throw will be adequate... if that light is good for that, then I think that is my light.

Sincere thanks for all the help.

unfortunately I have not used the 2 stage head so I can't comment on that.

I'm leaning toward the theory that it's just a 2 stage head like others, where if you use the standard forward clicky from SF, you can soft press for different modes and click to set that mode. Once you have it lit, though, I think you'll probably have to turn it off to set the mode again.

Maybe someone who's used the 2-stage head can comment.

Wondering if I shouldn't just use a Fenix TK30. The 100/370 modes are very useful and very simple to operate.

I just wish the head was a little smaller and it had a little more spill... but it is a great light.

I agree with the previous posters who recommended the VME head. Here is mine on my Scout light on my Colt 6920 with a KAC rail system.

The KX2C will give you 120 lumens and about and hour runtime for $135. The VME head and a M60 will give you 235 lumens and 1.5 hours of runtime for about $90.

I don't think the E1B head will work with two primaries. I tried a KX1 head on a on a two cell body and all it did was blink.

You won't regret going with the Malkoff. On the other hand, if you decide to go with the SF, that's good kit too.

So many intriguing options.

In a perfect world - a two stage light, 80 lumen first stage, 220-250 lumens second stage, 75-100 yards throw with good spill, a 1.5-2" turbohead perfectly acceptable. Would like to have all regulation in the head so a standard clickly would cycle low first click, high second click, and reset to the first stage if I don't select "high" after a few seconds - kind of like an E1B but in reverse.

Built on an E2 or G2 platform...

That would be the best general purpose rifle light I can imagine.

First stage for indoors so you don't blind yourself, second stage if you are outdoors or need more, but neither stage so dim/bright that selecting the wrong one could cause an issue.