Help getting full output of Mag85 with FM 9 cell holder

LuxLuthor

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I got this PM from a member, and thought I might as well post it as a topic in case others run into something like this:

CPF Member said:
Lux, I've read thru most of your posts before coming here and think I understand what i'm doing, but want to be sure.

Anyway I'm running a 3d mag with five megas 9/aa convertor, KIU socket and 1185 bipin bulb. Everyone talks about how bright they are and mine is not, yesterday I added 5Megas 2.5 throwmaster and figured that would do it,Nope.

So after reading through all the helpful info you put out I tested a few things. First amp draw at tailcap only got 2.5, next batt pack voltage 10.8 then i attempted to get V at bulb.

I dont have the clips like you show in your post but I was able to use probes on DMM and got 6.5. This sounds way low to me but then again I'm still new and learning every day. Would you mind giving me some insight into this, what am I doing wrong and what i need to do to fix? Sorry for the long post, i'm just really frustrated.

CPF Member, I feel your pain, and consider it part of the learning process which will benefit you in the future.

Couple things to check in order.
1) Double check you have every battery inserted the correct direction and ends of pack holder are lined up correctly. Follow the direction of the batteries through the contacts to make sure it makes sense that all 9 cells are in series, rather than one stack of 3 not being included. It is possible to screw this up if the holder ends are not lined up correctly.

2) What kind of AA cells? Most of them will work, as the 1185 only needs about 3.5Amps but still some cheap cells suck.

3) Check individual voltage of each cell. Even better if you have a battery tester which puts a little load on the cells.

4) Make sure ends of cells are clean. Use green scratch pad (like for dishes), or very find sandpaper if necessary.

5) Same on FM's holder contacts. They can have oxidation, dirt, or grease that interferes. Get them cleaned until you see shiny metal. Some of his contacts are not at the proper level on end caps and may not be making full contact. Make sure all battery stacks are tight and secure, with no slack.

6) Clean outside of battery holder top & bottom, and clean surfaces of tailcap spring where it makes contact with holder and tailcap.

7) Either add up the voltage you got from testing each cell, or put them end to end and get your voltage battery reading outside of holder.

8) Put in holder and see if you get the same voltage. You should. If not, then one of the contact points in his holder is not making a good contact.

9) If all that checks out, then you need a way to check voltage at bipin slots of KIU. You can put paper clips in and touch DMM leads to those after turning on power. The battery voltage should be the same at bipins without a bulb. If not, then it is possible that tightening the tailcap spring has twisted the battery holder in a way that it is not making contact with all cells.

10) If you suspect the spring twisting issue in #9, you may be able to counteract it with even tighter screw down of cap. To be sure:

  • Insert bulb in KIU

  • Turn off switch

  • Put battery pack in tube

  • Keep tailcap off, and push cells forward with your finger, then use a paperclip or screwdriver to make a contact between bottom of pack and inside of Mag body.

  • Turn on switch and see if full, bright light. If so, then the problem is from tailcap spring twisting the pack and loosening contact.
11) If still weak output, then you have batteries that are either not fully charged, one or more is defective, or they suck and cannot provide 3.5 Amps of current without horrible voltage sag.
 
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jcvjcvjcvjcv

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Defective batteries are so irritating with the 1185. My pack of 9 had two death batteries (not same time). On the multimeter it shows up with the right voltage, but under load... nada.

A good test: a black picture in a newspaper should burn while holding your breath.

Right know I'd probably take the 3x18650 route. I like the lower amount of cells. It's the same as witch my digital camera: nothing but irritation with the 8 batteries in the grip. And with taking the cost of the holder into account (that just loosens time and time again), the 18650 route is probably also cheaper. But with a 3D you have a lot of options to get to 10.8 Volt.
 

jimmyswan

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I sent the original message to Lux, and i believe it is a battery issue at this point. I'm using old tenergy 2600's, so I'm going to get new batts. But know you have me thinking, will I see as much output if I go the lithium route? I was thinking of using 3 26650's or 26500's, and how would I charge those? I have one of the wf139 chargers but I dont think they would fit. If no on the lithium route then from what ive read it sounds like the Eneloops is the best route.
 
Last edited:

hoongern

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I sent the original message to Lux, and i believe it is a battery issue at this point. I'm using old tenergy 2600's, so I'm going to get new batts. But know you have me thinking, will I see as much output if I go the lithium route? I was thinking of using 3 26650's or 26500's, and how would I charge those? I have one of the wf139 chargers but I dont think they would fit. If no on the lithium route then from what ive read it sounds like the Eneloops is the best route.

I myself don't use 26xxx lions, but here's one way -> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3208580&postcount=3

It doesn't have to be that elaborate, but the principle is the same. Just use wires/crocodile clips to connect it externally.

Edit: found another: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2667358&postcount=3
 

jimmyswan

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Thanks. that looks easy enough to put together. Will using the lithiums give me as much light as the AA's?
 

Steve in SoCal

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3 x Li-ions (~11.1 volts) should be the same brightness as a AA setup (~10.8 volts). I currently use 2 x AW IMR 18650s in a Mag 2D with a ROP high bulb and its great. I believe that using Li-ions is an easier option although you will need to check the length and adjust accordingly.
 

Billy Ram

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You can charge IMR26500s in your WF-139 like this
012-1.jpg

But it's a slow process and you can only do 2 at a time.
I've tried differant batterys in my m*g85 and ended up prefering eneloops. They don't self discharge like the higher capacity batterys and give you plenty of run time.
My m*g85 uses the stock mag switch treated with Pro Gold, bulb spring resistance mod and FM bipin socket. I still use the stock leef spring bulb tower ground and the other resistance mod is the tail cap spring mod.
My eneloops leave the charger with 13.5v. and after resting over night they still have 12.8v. and deliver 3.3a. at the tail cap. Bright enough for me.
Billy
 

jcvjcvjcvjcv

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That's why I would get the AW 18650 over random (for example: DX) 25500 (IRL they are 54mm)..

Capacity difference between 18650 and 25500 isn't that big either. Price is...

But I just got three DX25500 cells and charge them one after one in my WF-139 charger with a €0.10 coin* between the charger and battery positive side. I got them because I thought they were 50mm...

*
89% copper
5% aluminium
5% zinc
1% tin
 
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