Turbohead for C3?

Hi guys, just wanted to get your input on getting the KT2 turbohead for my C3. I performed a search and found the SRTH that LPS offers also. Would I be better off just getting the standard KT2 offered by Surefire? Thanks for your opinions in advance.

brnix,

Before buying the KT2 I would strongly encourage you to read the following two review threads.

SUREFIRE TURBOHEAD DISAPPOINTS


A MAJOR STEP FORWARD - NEW SRTH TURBOHEAD


Please note that the "urban throw tests" were not yet perfected at the time of these reviews, but the conclusions were later verified.

Brightnorm

If your C3 is HA, an KT2-HA is the only way to go for a matching TurboHead.

If your C3 is BK, then the force of opinion on CPF is that LPS's SRTH is the way to go.

If you intend to use the N2 lamp significantly more than the MN15 or MN16 then I agree, the SRTH is a great choice.

Al

I am extremely happy with my C3HA+KT2+N2 combo. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

The throw is incedible! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

My wife (who is not usually impressed by any of my flashlights)
says it's like I have my own mini-searchlight!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif


"Lux" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks guys! Appreciate all of the helpful info!

Brightnorm. what type of texture do you have on your Ultra Stinger? I had an Ultra head conversion for a Super Stinger that had a fully textured reflector, and produced a perflectly round beam, without artifacts, no circles. Recently I bought a new Ultra Stinger. This light has a small narrow center beam with artifacts. Mostly a useless beam, that has some throw but very irregular beam qualilty. My Streamlight 20XP with a 20X bulb procuces a much fuller beam, with no artifacts. The reflector on my new Ultra Stinger is 1/2 textured. Bill

I have the SRTH and it has an incredibly tight beam--like a lightsaber. However, the lens is lexan and not suited to long runtimes.

Before you invest too much money in a turbohead for your C3, check out the M3T. If I could do it again, I'd have skipped the SRTH and gone straight to the M3T. The last KT3 (?) HA I saw was about $140. I got my M3T for not much more than that. I find the 225 Lu lamp to be fantastic. I am also not a fan of swapping heads on lights often.

Best of luck!

Hi All,

Long time lurker, first time poster.

=)

I've had a C3 (HA) for a while now, and only recently have decided to move my KL3 to a C2 and reconfigure my C3.

Hopped on to this thread looking for some tips.

I've used the C3 with a P91 in the past -- the specs for the KT2 TurboHead retrofit for the C3, using the N2, is an output of 105 lumens.

I understand the basics of "throw"/patterning as well as differences, objectively, in terms of the lighting output, but am wondering if anyone can (oh no, there's not a chance of avoiding a bad pun here) enlighten me or throw some light on the practical differences that I would receive between the KT2+N2 versus the standard+P91 combos.

Specifically, I'm looking to understand/clarify:

(1) Does the lower objective lumens output of the KT2+N2 combo compromise "tactical" use of the C3 as a force-alternate tool.

(2) Is the difference in throw going to make it "worth it" for me to spend the hundred-odd bucks to purchase the KT2-N2 combo and switch-out the use of the standard+P91 combo between, say, outdoor (field-use) versus indoor (CQB/CQC) use, respectively. In other words, will it be worth the expense for me to switch out the KT2/N2 and the P91 to "match the light to the task," or will the P91 be more than sufficient?

(3) Is there a sturdy flip-up lens protector/anti-accidental-discharge cap for the KT2? Is it just going to be a revised Butler-Creek scope cap or is it something better, like the units for the M-series lights?

and here comes the big one.....

(4) Is there a way to fit a higher-output lamp unit into the KT2 in a "drop-in" format? If not, is this an alteration/mod that a beginner like me can perform with a Dremel and some basic hand-tools? [Please note that this light will be used in a burst on-off fashion only, I'm not expecting it to be a constant-on light.]

Thanks!

=)

Allen
aka DumboRAT

BTW, yes, I did review and read the past threads cited above, as well as others that the search engine turned up for KT2. =)

Hi Allen,

first of all welcome to CPF. Now let me try to answer some of your questions.

The correct Turbohead for the C3 would be the KT2 either in HA or BK. The standard LA that comes with that kit is the N2 providing 105lm/60min. Also the MN15(125lm/60min.) and the MN16(225lm/20min.) will work with the C3 as the M3T and the C3KT are both 9V Turbohead lights. Even thought the N2, MN15 and MN16 work perfectly with the KT2 they do have different beam a different beam pattern. The N2 produces one of the nicest and evenly round beams while both MN bulbs are more oval.

A protective cover for the KT2 Turbohead would be the FM27 opaque cover for 2,5" turboheads.


I don't have any experience with CQC/CQB/lowlight situations(except for finding the bathroom at dark /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif) , nevertheless I will try to comment on the use of either the Turohead or standard bezel variant depending on the situation. First I think for what you want to use the lights you should use the hightest output lamp available, the MN16(225lm) or P91(200lm), as this gives you a clear advantage.
SureFire flashlights are additonal force options, by blinding the opponent you have more control over a situation. The larger the hotspot of the used light the easier it is to stay "focused" on the oppontent, thus I guess for indoor/roomsearching applications the standard P91/nonTurbohead configuration might make more sense as the hotspot is wider than with the KT2 Turbohead.
The Turbohead's job is to collect all (or most of) the sidespilled light and produce a more concentrated&smaller hotspot that will reach further compared to the P91 - this explains why it could be harder to keep the hotspot focused on the opponent. On the other hand if far away targets need to be "light-penetrated" the Turbohead has a noticeable advanage over the standard P91 LA since -as mentioned above- it has more throw. Also due to the more concentrated hotspot the blinding effect is stronger.

To sum it up I (remember I don't have any experience!) would use the standard configuration (P91HOLA) for indoor and/or the Turbohead w. MN16HOLA for situations where more throw and power is needed. Nevertheless the Turbohead can of course also be used inside.

Most important of all this is to practice using light and weapon the right way together as all of this is useless if not done right.

Klaus. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[ QUOTE ]
Bullzeyebill said:
Brightnorm. what type of texture do you have on your Ultra Stinger? I had an Ultra head conversion for a Super Stinger that had a fully textured reflector, and produced a perflectly round beam, without artifacts, no circles. Recently I bought a new Ultra Stinger. This light has a small narrow center beam with artifacts. Mostly a useless beam, that has some throw but very irregular beam qualilty. My Streamlight 20XP with a 20X bulb procuces a much fuller beam, with no artifacts. The reflector on my new Ultra Stinger is 1/2 textured. Bill

[/ QUOTE ]

Bill,

I have a partly textured US head with texturizing on perhaps the lower 1/3rd of the reflector. The beam is nicely centered and concentrated with very minor artifacts that have no practical effect on throw and power.

The US is very sensitive to focus and bulb placement, in fact I was initilly disappointed until I spent some time fine tuning focus and making sure the bulb was precisely centered. This took awhile, but it was time well spent.

People sometimes downgrade this light because thaey haven't attended to these details.

Brightnorm

K-T,

Thank you *_very_* much for that wonderful run-down -- it's answered all of my questions perfectly!

It definitely looks like I will be going with the KT2/MN16/FM27 combo for outdoor work, and as a flashaholic-in-traning, I am perfectly content to switch-out the head/bezel/reflector&lamp units depending on indoor/outdoor use.

Again, much thanks!

The only part of me not thanking you now is my wallet.

=)

I should also say that before I manage to portray myself as someone who I am not: these lights will not be put to true-life "combat" circumstances -- when I speak of them as-such, it's purely for my other hobby (airsoft). In real-life, I'm a scientist by trade and training, and about the only things I combat are diseases and the bugs that cause them.....I wonder if I can get the bulb hot enough to fry some buggies?

=)

Allen

You're welcome. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Remember not to only train to swap bezels but to use the light togethere with your gun, to shot with them both in your hand, reload, etc.etc.

You might want to stop by at the Strategos Int. discussion (www.186thousand.com) board as there might be more experienced lowlight-trained people who could give you additional tips. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif