Quark Mini - Finding a place

amanichen

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(This is going to be a monster post and doesn't contain any pretty pictures, so you can skip to the last paragraph for my conclusion.)

In the spirit of this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/256795

...I've taken a non-technical look at the 1-cell LED lights I have. This is difficult for me because I'm an engineer. I work with numbers. I love comparing numbers with new lights: looking at runtime, brightness, battery amps, lumens per watt, reflector losses, etc. I love beamshots too; those white walls tell quite a bit about beam profiles. Now that I have a small collection of lights, I decided to compare them in actual usage. All the observations below, are based solely on my perception in actual use. The purpose of this was not to do beamshots, use a light meter, get a nice flat runtime graph, or prepare ideal conditions. Just grab each light, turn it on, and look at stuff.

The lights are as follows:

Quark Mini AA - neutral white
Fenix LD01 - original release, un-modded
Fenix L2P - modded with a SSC P4, and used with the 1 AA cell body

Onto the review...

When I ripped open the Quark Package, and stuck in a brand shiny new Duraloop, I immediately noticed that the Quark wasn't super bright. In actual use, it's slightly brighter than the L2P, with the LD01 being noticeably brighter than both. But the Quark has a warm tint. And sacrificing output is worth the supposed improvement in "color rendering"...right?

Indoors, the Quark only enhances reds and yellows, and everything else gets blasted with yellowish light. It's makes my off-white walls look yellowish. It even makes my blue bedsheets look yellowish. It makes me appreciate the cooler LEDs in the L2P and LD01 – I can't locate a stop sign at 1,000 yards with the cool tints, but the overall color balance appears better to me.

Outdoors, shining on winter grass (half brown, half green), tree trunks, and a gravel path it's the same result. The Quark, with its warmer tint, makes the surroundings look yellower and dimmer, and really didn't make the "natural" colors stand out any better. I know that beamshots, science, and CPF tell me that this result is wrong, that it doesn't make sense. Maybe I'm unknowingly colorblind? I've heard stories of cooler lights appearing to "ghostify" or "flatten" scenery, but not one of the three gave me any better depth perception, and the cooler lights actually seemed brighter.

Not one of the 3 lights has exceptional throw outdoors but that's to be expected with the reflector sizes and lumen ratings involved. The Quark wins with the hotspot brightness but not enough to make a noticeable difference. The spill brightness of the L2P and LD01 win, and neither is excessively narrow.

I also did some runtime tests, despite the fact that I was trying to leave numbers out of this. I start the light, and stop timing when it starts to dim. The LD01 manages 56 minutes on high, the Quark goes for 2 hours on high, and the L2P runs for 3 hours. The LD01 goes quick; and the Quark runtime is decent. But for about the same usable brightness, as the Quark, the L2P runs 33% longer. That's hard for me to overlook on a piece of paper.

But, I have a body clock that tells me when I'm tired, and when it's time to wake. It's difficult for me to perceive the passage of time unless I have a nearby star (the sun), a watch, or a cell phone. The LD01 runtime "seems" short, but when I'm busy using the light and not watching the seconds tick away, I don't know if I'd notice the runtime difference as much. Side-by-side perhaps, but individually, it might be difficult. Besides, if I think I'm going to need extended runtime, I'll bring extra cells with me.

The LD01 stays on my keychain. It's my EDC. It's the light I have when I don't have any other lights. It doesn't need to be exceptionally bright, or exceptionally long running. If I know I'm going to need more output or runtime on a particular day, I'll bring other lights or extra cells with me. The L2P is a bit big for my pocket, so it gets holstered when I carry it, but it's a good task light with a fast draw and quick on-off operation. The Quark is in between - it seems silly to attach it to my belt, but it's noticeable in my pocket; it's not super slow to get to high, but not fast either.

Don't get me wrong - I like the Quark. It's very small, has multiple well-spaced levels, respectable runtime, and a very competitive price. It's the cheapest "good" light I've ever bought. I'm just having a hard time knocking the LD01 off my keychain, and a hard time relying on the Quark as a task light, because the L2P has a smoother beam and less-defined hotspot, and dare I say better tint. Maybe I have too many similar lights. Maybe I should look at the Quark as a good balance between the two others, but it can also feel out of place between the other two – a jack where a master is needed.
 

Woods Walker

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Just depends on what you like.

XP-E Q5 (iTP A3) cool vs. XP-E Q3 5A3 (Quark mini AA) neutral.

IMG_0561.jpg


I prefer the warmer one.
 

applevision

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Nice!

I really like these more subjective reviews and impressions, thanks amanichen.

One thing, however, is that it would be neat to see how you feel about the MiNi 123 cool. I think that it is an extraordinary light that is in a new class. The warms are nice but are really a different beast and the AA version, while super neat, is IMHO not the drastic departure that the 123 powered version is. Anyways, I will always have a place in my heart for my LD01 SS which I EDCd for a long time on my keychain... but my MiNi 123 rides in its place now!
:D
 

JaguarDave-in-Oz

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Indoors, the Quark only enhances reds and yellows, and everything else gets blasted with yellowish light. It's makes my off-white walls look yellowish. It even makes my blue bedsheets look yellowish. It makes me appreciate the cooler LEDs in the L2P and LD01 – I can't locate a stop sign at 1,000 yards with the cool tints, but the overall color balance appears better to me.

Outdoors, shining on winter grass (half brown, half green), tree trunks, and a gravel path it's the same result. The Quark, with its warmer tint, makes the surroundings look yellower and dimmer, and really didn't make the "natural" colors stand out any better.

I know that beamshots, science, and CPF tell me that this result is wrong, that it doesn't make sense. Maybe I'm unknowingly colorblind?
You are not alone in this. It is exactly the same for me with my "neutral" TK20 indoors and out and I'm not even slightly colour blind.

I hate "neutral" tint light with a passion.
 

paulr

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I'd be interested in seeing spectrometer graphs of the neutral led vs a high-CRI led.
 

Moonshadow

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I've been saying this for ages. It appears that perhaps the novelty factor of warm and neutral tints is wearing off and people are coming to accept that they don't really improve colours as much as was being claimed - they just make everything look a bit yellower.

At the same time, the quality of the cool tints improved beyond recognition: the days of the 'angry blue' Nichia showerheads are long gone.

OK, so there's still the occasional green XP-G (some tint variability in the top output bins is to be expected) but a good cool LED these days will give you a bright and pure white light without a hint of blue or yellow.
 

Tixx

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Just depends on what you like.

XP-E Q5 (iTP A3) cool vs. XP-E Q3 5A3 (Quark mini AA) neutral.

IMG_0561.jpg


I prefer the warmer one.

This was my first warm light as I bought both as well. I really like the warmer tint. Everything seems more clear.
 

jankj

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Outdoors, shining on winter grass (half brown, half green), tree trunks, and a gravel path it's the same result. The Quark, with its warmer tint, makes the surroundings look yellower and dimmer, and really didn't make the "natural" colors stand out any better. I know that beamshots, science, and CPF tell me that this result is wrong, that it doesn't make sense.

Personal preference plus individual differences in perception makes this uncontroversial, IMO. This is what YOU see.

It may also be a factor of "bin lottery". This is supposedly less of an issue than it used to be, with "tighter" bins and high quality control. But for all I know some diodes may slip through QA.


My neutral white quark mini is white. It will look yellow compared to a cool white, but not much - the way I look at it, the cool white is "too bluish" and the NW mini is only just slightly yellowish. When I compare the whitewall look of my neutral white regular quarks they look clearly much more yellowish than the mini. Side by side to the mini the regular NW quark look somewhat urine green :green: (although it helps a bit when changing to higher outputs, there is a tint shift on the regular quarks when you change mode). This is what I see with MY eyes and my samples of these lights.
 

amanichen

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My neutral white quark mini is white. ... It will look yellow compared to a cool white, but not much - the way I look at it, the cool white is "too bluish" and the NW mini is only just slightly yellowish. When I compare the whitewall look of my neutral white regular quarks they look clearly much more yellowish than the mini...
I see the about same thing when comparing tints.

On the same wall, the L2P is cream colored, the LD01 is slightly cool, and the Quark feels like a sodium lamp with a wider spectrum. When used alone the Quark feels closer to an incandescent lamp, but still very yellowish. I'm definitely accustomed to cooler lights, but to me Quark throws off colors way more than the cooler lights and feels much more yellow than daylight.

If I use the Quark more, I'm sure I would grow accustomed to the tint. It's just that the warmer tint by itself wasn't an improvement to me over my cooler lights.

One thing, however, is that it would be neat to see how you feel about the MiNi 123 cool. I think that it is an extraordinary light that is in a new class. The warms are nice but are really a different beast and the AA version, while super neat, is IMHO not the drastic departure that the 123 powered version is.
I've gone for lights that will take NiMH AA cells due to the light form factors, cell availability, ability to recharge, idiot proofness of the cells, etc. I've considered 123 lights a number of times but I don't have a need for the sheer output - a modern 2AA light works well enough for my use. Perhaps I'll pick up a cool version of the Mini AA for comparison :grin2:
 

jankj

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I'm definitely accustomed to cooler lights, but to me Quark throws off colors way more than the cooler lights and feels much more yellow than daylight.

If I use the Quark more, I'm sure I would grow accustomed to the tint. It's just that the warmer tint by itself wasn't an improvement to me over my cooler lights.

I'd like to add a couple of side notes:
- According to 47, there will be tint changes when you change into higher modes with the regular quark, which is supposedly typical behavior for current regulated lights. Makes sense to me. The regular quark seems more yellowish on lower output than at full blast.

- The mini is PWM regulated (i.e. full blast at all modes, but the lower modes shuts off at high frequency, which to our eyes is equivalent to less output). No detectable thint shift there, and obvious more white than the quarks, particular at the lower modes.

- I have 3 different quark heads, all neutral white, and there are obvious tint differences when white wall hunting.

- Despite the above comments I absolutely love the way the quarks perform in "real life". Flashlights should be used to look for exitement and adventure, not hunt for boring white walls...
 

amanichen

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Bumping this after eight months because my preferences have changed. I know - quite egotistical of me, and this should probably go on myspace or facebook or some pretentious blog, but I'm hoping others can learn from my mista...I mean experiences.

-In the past eight months I've ditched the modded L2P, and LD01. The Mini AA neutral has lived on my keychain, and has been used almost daily, since January (until three weeks ago when it died). It's supplemented by a Quark AA2 Tactical neutral for when I need more throw and power. (However, I'm having concerns about my Quarks now that I've had two different models die within a month of each other. That's another story for another day.)

-I am accustomed to the "neutral" tints and cannot stand the cooler tints anymore. Seriously, I recently exchanged a cool light for a neutral tint after about two minutes of use and happily ate the difference in lumens for the improved perception it gave me.

-The Mini AA, while versatile, is also not terribly bright. Even in a small white-walled room, where light can bounce readily, it feels kind of dim, despite being brighter than the previous two lights it replaced.

-I've since picked up a Zebralight SC51w, which has taken the EDC role from the Mini AA for a whole number of reasons, not least of which was the Mini suddenly dying. The Zebralight feels like a bigger leap ahead of the other 1xAAA and 1xAA lights I've owned, instead of feeling like the latest in line of incrementally "improved" lights that are based on aging drivers with stupid UIs and have only so-so machining quality. I'd mention names, but most of you can probably think of a few brands that fit this description. Anyway, the Zebralight has a ridiculous max brightness on a NiMH AA, with better or equivalent runtimes and brightnesses on the lower levels as the Mini AA. The Zebra is more expensive, obviously, but it basically addresses every single gripe and want I've had with other 1xAAA and 1xAA lights.

The moral of the story: neutral tints are better once you get used to them, and Zebralight makes a heck of a product if you want a 1xAA EDC light.

Sincerely,

Some guy with an assh...I mean an opinion :D
 
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MichaelW

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You should have tried a crAA [Titanium Innovations] 14505 cell in lieu of a regular voltage AA. That makes the QuarkMiniAA match QMini cr123.

neutral-white [3500-5000K] is far different than warm-white.[2500-3500K]
 

psychbeat

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I use my lights outdoors building trails and riding bikes and my neutral
lights always seem to have more contrast and less fog dazzle.

At first most of my friends thought the
neutral a bit too mellow (I have about half the lumen they do) but now they
are talking about modding their 600$+ bike lights with neutral emitters.

I've gotten snobbier over the last year and am almost embarrassed to use any of my cool lights.

Except for my aspheric thrower.

In dust and fog neutral wins even with half the output.
 

amanichen

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You should have tried a crAA [Titanium Innovations] 14505 cell in lieu of a regular voltage AA. That makes the QuarkMiniAA match QMini cr123.
I've been on the fence about lithiums for a long time now, but as I mention up in Post #10, I'm hooked on NiMH, and I'm willing to wait for increases in LED and driver efficiency.

neutral-white [3500-5000K] is far different than warm-white.[2500-3500K]
Yeah, I goofed on that one, I meant neutral or "warm-er" not "warm" outright.

I use my lights outdoors building trails and riding bikes and my neutral
lights always seem to have more contrast and less fog dazzle.
What's interesting is that I now that I like the broader spectrum of the neutral tints, I have trouble viewing the reflected light from cooler LEDs. In my travels on the intarwebz, I keep finding information that basically says human eyes aren't that good at focusing on blue light compared to longer wavelengths. Based on regular usage over 8 months I'm feeling it's not so much the overall color temperature as it is the broader spectrum that's helping. I still feel things look "yellow" but it's so much easier to look at than "blue."
 
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