The impossible mix: Best flashlight for my flightbag

Greetings all. I've been diggin' around but not finding exactly what I'm looking for...

I'm looking for a white LED light suitable to keep in my flight bag, use for preflights, and use as an aux light in the cockpit. I fly single-rubber-band airplanes, so throw isn't a big requirement, but something that has a 100+ lumen output has more utility. Also, for me, FAR part 91.501 and 135 do not apply, so I don't need a flashlight powered by 2 D batteries.

Basic requirements:

• Very low (<1 lumen) mode
• No stupid UI that requires you activates higher modes first before low
• Easy change from lower modes to higher modes and back
• Way to assure a start in lowest mode.
• Some mode in the 100+ lumen range with modes in between.
• Clicky design a plus; momentary a plus.

Other thoughts:

• Looking for white, not red.
• Already have a photon microlight III that I keep clipped to my headset cord, but half the time I go to use it it seems the batteries are dead.
• I carry 123's and AAs in my flightbag already, so battery type not critical (123's kinda preferred).
• At $100+ an hour for gas and plane, flashlights in the $100+ range are acceptable.
• Open to thoughts on R2 vs R5 emitters

I was looking at the Jetbeam RRT-0, until I found out that you have to go from low->high->low to get the lower low (which is still 1 lumen and probably too bright). Is it just me, or does this sound dumb if you've got a rotating brightness ring to begin with? Some have also reported bright flashes when you turn it on. Other than that, the ring is a good idea.

I've also considered some of the 4seven's quark lights with moonlight mode (the mini doesn't have it), which might be perfect output-wise, but the UI seems conducive to accidentally starting in a higher mode, or bouncing the button and ending up in a higher mode. My other option would be the tactical versions which memorize modes, but then switching to anything other than the 2 stored modes is difficult... This may be my best bet though. Any personal experiences?

Accidentally firing 180 lumens against a chart in a cockpit is a bad thing.

I also have an original generation Surefire L1 (~3-5 lumens on low, too bright), an Surefire U2 (low too bright), a cute little quark mini as EDC (low too bright), and some random cheap knock offs (too bright or too unreliable).

Thoughts?

Quark regular 123 starts in moonlight mode .2 lumen? if the bezel is kept loosened just a hair, maybe a Novatac 120P programmable, .08 lumen, maybe program most modes to low or the Zebralight H30-Q5, I have this one and it starts in low and unless you hold the switch down it won't go to high, it can be used just on-off in low, my Zebralight 501 starts on high if you click it too fast.

At $100+ an hour for gas and plane, flashlights in the $100+ range are acceptable.

Click to expand...

RA Clicky. Does everything you've asked for, and you can program it exactly how you want. Absolutely bomb-proof so it will always be there and work when you need it too.

Lots of other options on the RA site - the EDC version is slightly less bright, but tucks in under the $100 mark, or you can customise your own for a slightly higher price.

The Quark and the Ra are good choices.

Quark = nice but a "manufactured" light from a far away land.

Ra= very nice hand crafted American made bombproof light.

+1 on the Ra's. I have an EDC Exec and Twisty. Both great. The EDC can be customized per your needs, with simple/easy one-handed access to the other light levels. Great size/form. Enough so that I bought another......:thumbsup:

Surefire A2 Aviator? But the Ra Clicky is also a damn nice light

The LiteFlux LF3XT can be programmed for any level in any order. High is always readily available as is low. The full UI has five settable modes while the compact UI ramps. Uses 1 CR123 and will cost you about $65. Check it out.

Geoff

A2 is too bright, but if you go for the red LED model it may be okay...

lovecpf

You guys rock. It's amazing how much better real people are than Google. :duh2:

The users manual and programming modes on the RA makes the UI on any piece of avionics look simple... It might be easier for me to spell out what I want using morse code! Still, since I won't be programming it every day, I think I could manage. The really really low 0.08 lumen outputs look good too. I might just have to get that AND a quark tactical. :naughty:

(Flashaholic in training.)

I think the A2 aviator is over-rated and it also doesn't prove the really low level white I'm looking for. 10 lumens is still blinding...

Another vote for the Ra or the Quark. Both would fit all your criteria well.

You'd expressed some concern about the Quark's UI, but I think that the regular (non-tactical) version should be fine. You might be a bit confused about how Quarks work. With the bezel tightened, the light comes on at full brightness. When the bezel's loosened, they always start at minimum brightness (which is very dim: about 0.2 lumens). As a result, with the bezel loosened you can be assured that you're going to get low light that's perfect for the cockpit. (And even if you accidentally click the button a second time, it won't kill your night vision: it'd just take you to the next level of light, which is only about 4 lumens.)

That's one of the things I like about the Quarks: the two most easily accessible modes are the ones I use most often: obscenely bright, and obscenely dim. Now if only I could get my defective quark back from RMA...but that's a different story entirely.

The RA is also a phenomenal light. One of the things that makes them so nice is that they let you access all 4 levels of light with one hand - you never need a second hand to twist the bezel. You can program each one of the 4 levels to the exact brightness you want, and set the light to turn at any of those levels. The RAs are very well built lights, very customizable, and are the ones I keep in my emergency kits. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.

Hope this helps!

- FITP

P.S. I just saw post #10 after I posted this comment. Don't worry about the RA's UI: it sounds complicated in the manual, but it's pretty easy in reality. Customizing it is a bit more complicated, but you only need to do that once: after you're done, it's a cinch. Good luck!

Random, I can appreciate your desire to have a low-low available, right away. A word of caution on the quarks though--they suffer from the "pre-flash" condition when the last activated mode was high... so that could be an issue. I have only the tactical models, though, so I don't know what the regulars do.

You mention an RRT-0 from jetbeam, but you also expressed that you don't need a "thrower." The RRT-0 is a somewhat of a pocket thrower, with a small, intense hotspot. I like small throwers, but that may not be the best for your line of work.

On xp-g R5 vs. xp-e R2...Most of the xp-gs have a decidedly cool tint, whether greenish or bluish, and by virtue of their larger emitting area, have a larger, less intense hotspot.

The xp-e R2, an the other hand, usually has a beautiful, snow white tint, almost as nice as a luxeon rebel, and a smaller, brighter hotspot that throws more, all other factors being equal. I think it's the perfect emitter... except for an application like yours, where a floodier beam for reading at close range is necessary.

I don't have an RA yet (that's going to change soon...) but from what I've read, that may indeed be the PERFECT light. Especially with the High-cri emitter.

Good luck, whatever you choose.

It is difficult to characterize a whole class of LEDs when you have no bin codes to link them to. Tint variation is common amongst all LEDs

Another +1 to the Ra Clicky or older Novatac 120P!!! :twothumbs:

carrot said:

A2 is too bright, but if you go for the red LED model it may be okay...

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+1 i just got an A2 with the white LEDs, its bright enough light an entire room on the LEDs alone, esp if its dark.

Dunno novetac but Quark meets your req's completely. Also lego options make it compatiable with both your AA's and 16340's
re: Quark pre-flash is a complete non-issue.
Light may 'preflash' related to intensity of last used mode. If it has been clicked into moonlight a few times recently it should be fairly minor.
Most importantly, just keep the lens covered for the initial press - e.g. click the switch as you're pulling it from your sleeve pocket, preflash contained in pocket.
Other great ideas include leaving bezel against leg when activating, or pressing light against chest when you first click it on.
These remidiation efforts are %100 effective and if you are a skilled user you will never see a pre-flash.

It's $239 but the Surefire T1A might work. Only about 80 lms on high but fully adjustable. Also very floody.

I fly with a black diamond headlght (AA). Similar to this one...

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Black-Diamond-Icon-Headlamp/BLD1034M.html

The one I have has both 5mm LEDs and a 1 watt luxeon. The 5mm have low, med, and high. The Luxeon is more of a spot light that is good for preflight and looking in the cowling. It also has hi, med and low modes.

I have a petzel 4x5mm headlight as a backup light source. This has 5mm leds in it with a retractable string like headband.

In the cockpit keeping ur hands free is a good thing, especially if you have an electrical/alternator failure at night.

Bud

Hello, Random, and :welcome:

As a fellow SE-L aviator, here are my thoughts for your consideration: For pre-flight and night cockpit use, I find the Quark AA nearly ideal. I got the neutral white version for better color rendition and contrast. I run it primarily on 14500 lithium ion rechargeable batteries that give it the same output levels as the Quark 123. If needs be, however, I can power it with regular old AA alkaline cells that can be found at nearly any FBO, albeit with a somewhat reduced turbo output and inferior regulation.

The UI couldn't be simpler or more reliable: Twist the head tight, click the switch and you get turbo (approx 200 OTF lumen with 14500); loosen the head 1/8 turn or so, click the switch and you get "moon mode" (approx 0.2 lumen). I've never hit the wrong level by mistake, or had it jump levels and destroy my scotopic vision. Intermediate light levels are available by "soft clicks" (1/2 click) from low. I've never had a use for strobe or SOS, and hopefully never will.

If you want a slightly larger form factor, or really would prefer to use 123 primaries, the Quark 123^2 will do everything the AA will do, plus it produces approx 230 OTF lumens on turbo.

As you can see from my signature line, I have a lot of other lights to choose from, but I find the Quark the most suitable for aviation. For more detail, check out Selfbuilt's fine review of the Quark's here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/234960

Good hunting and fly safe.

Linger said:

Dunno novetac but Quark meets your req's completely. Also lego options make it compatiable with both your AA's and 16340's
re: Quark pre-flash is a complete non-issue.
Light may 'preflash' related to intensity of last used mode. If it has been clicked into moonlight a few times recently it should be fairly minor.
Most importantly, just keep the lens covered for the initial press - e.g. click the switch as you're pulling it from your sleeve pocket, preflash contained in pocket.
Other great ideas include leaving bezel against leg when activating, or pressing light against chest when you first click it on.
These remidiation efforts are %100 effective and if you are a skilled user you will never see a pre-flash.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

The Quark AA I tested before giving it away had a pre-flash issue and I found it frustrating. Why should I have to turn it on pressed against my leg or in my pocket? I just want it to turn on in the mode I have it set at. The only light I have that does this is an older P2D, and mostly it's always in turbo mode anyways. I would think that this problem would definitely turn me off for the usage needed by the OP. Accidental blinding in the cockpit would be aggravating.

The lowest low light I have is a Milky L4, with a .23lm low, IIRC. It's awesome, but the one disadvantage is if you click to a higher output, you have to cycle through the really bright modes to get back to the lowest. Thus, a light like the Ra with completely customizable UI may be the best bet for this application.