Bigmark408
Newly Enlightened
I need advice on how to install trits....what epoxy can be used ?
Trit Installation ?
- Thread starter Bigmark408
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B@rt
Flashaholic
Rockettomato is selling Norland 61 in the MP for it. It's UV curing clear epoxy for optical applications. 
Bigmark408
Newly Enlightened
Is this the only type of epoxy that will work ?
Anything thats clear after curing will work
But the comes the question, if it needs to be water resistant too.
bshanahan14rulz
Flashlight Enthusiast
go with the norland, it's enough for probably like, 10 trits at least. Plus it comes with a few pipettes free
Devcon clear works but will yellow over time so Norland is the better option.
Very easy to use and if you make a mess of it (before exposing to UV) you can clean up easily and start again.
When you consider that the trit takes up most of the space in the slot you literally only need a drop or two. Buy here Norland 61 Optical Adhesive
You don't need a special light source, put it outside, even on a dull day there's plenty of UV to set the Norland.
Norm
I have used some 2 Ton clear epoxy that AW mentioned using in some thread. I don't remember where I got it. I read that it is thicker than the Norland product so it makes the trit look like it is floating.
It is clear, but it does wear and become somewhat cloudy. Which isn't really a bad thing, you can still see the light through it.
It is clear, but it does wear and become somewhat cloudy. Which isn't really a bad thing, you can still see the light through it.
Bigmark408
Newly Enlightened
I have some Norland that a friend sent me but i noticed it is past the expiration date...should i bother with it ?
damn_hammer
Enlightened
I bought the Norland from the MP, a D10 slotted piston, and the correct size trit, but haven't done it yet. I've never been able to determine if you just put a few drops of the Norland into the slot, and then put the trit in, or if you fill it half way so the trit is half submerged laying in a bed of Norland, or if you put some in, then the trit, and then cover it with more Norland so that it's completely submerged, and then if it's completely submerged do you fill the slot completely to where its even with the surface of the piston, just above, just below? Only questions, so have never done it.
DuncanHynes
Newly Enlightened
Good questions, I too would like to know the technique for filling up 'dead space' in a deep slot and or surrounding the trit in the adhesive.
Jay R
Flashlight Enthusiast
I use Loctite Glass Bond. Seems to be the same as Norland but at a fraction of the price. Sets clear under sunlight, water resistant, etc...
Used it a few times now with no issues.
Used it a few times now with no issues.
Last edited:
mikeymoto
Newly Enlightened
I've put trits in some HDS bezels and a D10 piston. I lay the tritium vials in place then glop the Norland on top of it with a toothpick and spread it until the cavity is filled with adhesive. I then slide the toothpick over the surface so it is flat and I can't see any bubbles. The Norland is pretty viscous so bubbles have not been a big issue for me. Then I wipe around the area with a paper towel and set the project in the sun to cure.
That's how I do it and have not had problems.
Edit:
My bottle of Norland is 2 years past its expiration date but is still good. I keep it wrapped up in its paper info sheet, in a plastic bag, in my computer room closet. Basically it's in a cool DARK place.
Hey all,
I have read about using Norland and a few others but was wondering can i use something like Araldite ultra clear as i can buy it at hardware stores in Australia a lot easier and cheaper than Norland. I already have some and it dries pretty clear. Also should the trit be covered completley with a layer of product, if so i need to take a bit more of the piston of.
Cheers pugga
I have read about using Norland and a few others but was wondering can i use something like Araldite ultra clear as i can buy it at hardware stores in Australia a lot easier and cheaper than Norland. I already have some and it dries pretty clear. Also should the trit be covered completley with a layer of product, if so i need to take a bit more of the piston of.
Cheers pugga
damn_hammer
Enlightened
Thanks for the explanation mikeymoto, this helps.
vudoo
Enlightened
Anyone who has used Norland 61, can you tell me how thick it is?
I want to install some trits into the two grooves near the switch of a TI Quark 123. I plan to cover the outside of groove with some masking/electrical tape, put a small drop into the cavity, place the trit on top of the Norland (hopefully it is thick enough so it wil sit on top insteda of floating to the bottom) and then fill over the trit with some more Norland. Hopefull the trit will then be fully encapsulated in the Norland.
Is this the best way to do it? Has anyone used any other tape to block Norland?
I want to install some trits into the two grooves near the switch of a TI Quark 123. I plan to cover the outside of groove with some masking/electrical tape, put a small drop into the cavity, place the trit on top of the Norland (hopefully it is thick enough so it wil sit on top insteda of floating to the bottom) and then fill over the trit with some more Norland. Hopefull the trit will then be fully encapsulated in the Norland.
Is this the best way to do it? Has anyone used any other tape to block Norland?
tino_ale
Flashlight Enthusiast
Before curing Norland is very thin. It flows and level itself easily.
KuKu427
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2009
- Messages
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I used a piece of Al foil on top on scotch tape to dam up the Norland.
It's 4 seperate fill/cure operations. First tape the exterior side, fill, then slip in the trit. Once that cured then fill in the back side and cure. Repeat for the other slot.
It's 4 seperate fill/cure operations. First tape the exterior side, fill, then slip in the trit. Once that cured then fill in the back side and cure. Repeat for the other slot.
vudoo
Enlightened
Thank you for the picture, that is awesome!
Ideally I would like to have the trit fully encapsulated in the Norland to protect it. What I don't wan to happen is that I put in the layer of Norland, put the trit on top and then have it sink to the bottom where it will be on the outside.
When I drop the trit into the Norland, will it float on top or will it sink?
Ideally I would like to have the trit fully encapsulated in the Norland to protect it. What I don't wan to happen is that I put in the layer of Norland, put the trit on top and then have it sink to the bottom where it will be on the outside.
When I drop the trit into the Norland, will it float on top or will it sink?
tino_ale
Flashlight Enthusiast
Normally it doesn't really float but it has been noticed that sometimes the trit doesn't fully "sit" at the bottom either. Looks like it has almost a neutral buancy in Norland.
To avoid this you can cure a small amount of norland with the trit installed, in order to set the vial in the desired position. Then, top off with norland to the full level and cure.
KuKu427 I don't know what happened but the surface doesn't seem smooth at all in your picture ??
To avoid this you can cure a small amount of norland with the trit installed, in order to set the vial in the desired position. Then, top off with norland to the full level and cure.
KuKu427 I don't know what happened but the surface doesn't seem smooth at all in your picture ??
