Nubee does ignorant thing

Hi folks, I'm new to high performance lighting. I picked up a BlackCat C8 flashlight off of E-bay about a month ago. It has a Cree XRr-E Q-5 emitter After my second set of lithium 3.0v batteries, I decided to get a set of RCR-123a batteries and charger. Dummy me assumed that all 123a are the same and they aren't and I burned up the emitter.

Is there a replacement emitter available that will stand up to 2 each RCR-123a's that are rated 3.7v@1300mah?

Welcome to CPF. First off I recommend you read the Welcome Mat. It's full of useful information when you're getting started.

As for your specific flashlight problem, I don't know anything about the light you mentioned so I can't help you fix it, but there are plenty of lights around designed to use two 3.7v Li-Ion cells. Keep in mind that these cells actually hold around 4.2v when they are freshly charged, so you'll want to look for a light advertised as operating with up to 9 volts.

Hope this helps.

crgintx said:

Hi folks, I'm new to high performance lighting. I picked up a BlackCat C8 flashlight off of E-bay about a month ago. It has a Cree XRr-E Q-5 emitter After my second set of lithium 3.0v batteries, I decided to get a set of RCR-123a batteries and charger. Dummy me assumed that all 123a are the same and they aren't and I burned up the emitter.

Is there a replacement emitter available that will stand up to 2 each RCR-123a's that are rated 3.7v@1300mah?

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If you're going to replace the emitter on that light and power it will 2 RCR123's then you need to replace the diver as well or add a resistor. It's not going to be just a matter of finding an emitter.

Or you can just find a new light that is designed for that battery combination.

My flashlight says it's BlackCat C8/Cree XR-E Q5. I think it sold under the Tank brand. It is a simple on/off flash light circuit(single mode?) I disassembled the lamp assembly and tested the driver circuit. The circuit was still good. I was hoping that was the case. Upon close inspection, one of the tiny wires inside the LED looks burnt.

Another nubee question? There seems to be a constant .5v output from the driver in the OFF position. Is this normal? Voltage in the on position is battery nominal tested with a slightly used set of 3.0v lithium batteries of 5.5v.

TIA

if your good with a soldering iron see if you can find an equivalent replacement led (probably $7 shipped) and put in in there yourself.

or new driver + led if you want to do the extra work spend the $$ ?


time = money

might be better / cheaper just to get a new light ?

Actually Li-ions are more like 4.2v so you put a bit under 9v into the LED/driver....

You can't use the RCR's if you just replace the led. THe driver is what controls the voltage to the led. I'd suggest you stay with primaries if you repair your light. You can get another Q 5 led , but the driver may be toast too. You can't tell until you hook up an LED to it.

Already ordered a new flashlight from Deal Extreme. I was hoping that someone with more experience could recommend a specific driver part number and replacement emitter combo that are compatible with the 3.7 RCR-123a batteries. While not a pro, I can solder when I have to. I'm looking to repair/upgrade/modify my current housing for optimum battery life and output using my current RCR-123a 3.7v batteries(KTG 16340). I'm mostly interested in having longer periods between charges. I work security for a DoD research station that's often pitch black on overcast nights.

crgintx said:

Already ordered a new flashlight from Deal Extreme. I was hoping that someone with more experience ...

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I'm wondering what your employer would think if he knew you were relying on a DX light for the performance of your duties... :green:

DM51 said:

I'm wondering what your employer would think if he knew you were relying on a DX light for the performance of your duties... :green:

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"OMG, poor guy. I think I need to raise his salary to allow him to buy a proper flashlight"...

Uhmm... I dont think so (but would be great )