Lumans Factory Seraph P7 Head *Sizzle-Sizzle*

I just received my Lumens Factory Seraph P7 head & installed in on my Surefire M6. It lit up but went right out. As I unscrewed it, it came back on. If I left it tightened down (with the tail cap tightened to "on") and slapped it lightly against my palm it would flicker on and go right back out. If I unscrewed it about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way off the body it operates. After a bit of playing around with it I heard a high pitched squeal and that son of a gun got HOT!!! I took the tail cap off as fast as I could and the CR123A battery magazine slid out smoking hot! :huh:
By the way, I was using brand new Surefire brand CR123As, and the polarity was correct on all cells.
I suspect a dead short. I contacted Flavio from Bug Out Gear USA and he in turn contacted Lumens Factory.
Part of their response:
"I have never got a case like this before from any customer.
I think he may have a shortage somewhere, it might be caused by the large spring getting loose when he tighten the body since the large spring is removable."

So does anyone know how to keep the large outer spring from moving and causing a short? I'd hate to fry my battery magazine by screwing around too much.

UPDATE:

Just got home from work & tried messing with it again. I figured out how to make it work!:thinking:

First remove the battery magazine, then install the P7 head, replace battery magazine… bam-it works!

Apparently the center spring (positive) binds as the head is screwed into place, cams over and shorts out the batteries. By allowing the center spring to enter the body of the light without putting load on it and twisting it avoids this, as sliding in the battery magazine after the P7 head is installed compresses the center spring without twisting it over. I assume this to be the explanation but I cannot confirm it as unfortunately, I no longer have x-ray equipment at home (stupid Feds!).

Glad you got it apart before it went boom! Hopefully no lasting damage. I always appreciate people posting up these incidents because it helps everyone to learn. It seems to be necessary to remove cells before replacing a head on a light - this is not the first report I've read on here of springs causing a short if heads are screwed on with cells in place. Lesson learned, thanks :thumbsup:

Olef

I was wondering; has anyone else had this problem? I have the version II P7 head. Maybe this is just an issue with the newer version?

I would see how that happened, taking the cells out while changing is a good safety tip.
It would happen with any +spring that could bend and reach the side wall or outer -spring.

I had a similar issue about a month ago when I got my LF P7 head for my SF M4. I had to remove the batteries, install the head, then put the batteries back in, and put on the tailcap. I had issues when I just took of the head (batteries and tailcap still installed) and just swapped to the the LF head. No big deal, just had to figure it out on my own.

I sure do like that LF P7 head though! :twothumbs

I bought my LF P7 head when they where first released
It works fine when I screw the head down on the battery magazine

BTW dont you think this head desperately needs two levels, low and max
Sometimes max output is a little too bright

I had a similar experience when fitting my generation II P7 Tubohead on my Leef body. I seems that both springs get crushed together shorting them out if you try to just swap heads - you need to take out the batteries (magzine) then install the head and replace the batteries.

I think this is because of the long negative spring on the newer P7 heads.

I have been very pleased with the P7 head - I wonder what Mark at Lumens Factory has got coming up next....?

Wow thank goodness you were not hurt and no property was damaged. Yes, exercize caution with Legos and contact springs, especially the ones that use adapters (C to M for example), and long springs to make body contact.

DEFINITELY, install the cells AFTER the head+ adapter parts.

Now that I've used this new head a little bit I thought I'd make a further note about it in case anyone ever finds this thread when they may be considering purchasing one.

DO IT!

I've had no further issues. I LOVE this thing! Other than having only one level (as tx101 pointed out) it's awesome. Gave my M6 a new lease on life. I always felt guilty using the M6 because it sucked up so many CR123As so fast. Not anymore. I often grab this light now just to "play" with it. (It also makes the dogs think a helicopter is getting ready to land on them) I also love the beam; I much prefer it over the incan.

The size of the head also makes the light feel more 'handy' to me somehow. Nice unit. Great performance for the money too.

Hi Dirtybore,

Yes, we realized that from your feedback, so we have added the point to the warning slip on all existing and new stocks.
We always install the head first before putting in batteries, but didn't realize that not all users have the same habit. It was a mistake on our part. Thanks so much for pointing it out.

We will release a 3 mode with memory version of the head in a week or two, so that should work.

Thank you all for the great comments, enjoy.

Cheers,

Mark

Great comments. Question: with the understanding that HA (as we know) often does not match closely, how close is the match between the M6 tube/tailcap and the LF head?

dirtybore said:

Now that I've used this new head a little bit I thought I'd make a further note about it in case anyone ever finds this thread when they may be considering purchasing one.

DO IT!

I've had no further issues. I LOVE this thing! Other than having only one level (as tx101 pointed out) it's awesome. Gave my M6 a new lease on life. I always felt guilty using the M6 because it sucked up so many CR123As so fast. Not anymore. I often grab this light now just to "play" with it. (It also makes the dogs think a helicopter is getting ready to land on them) I also love the beam; I much prefer it over the incan.

The size of the head also makes the light feel more 'handy' to me somehow. Nice unit. Great performance for the money too.

Click to expand...

The color (to my eye anyway) is very, very close. Not an exact match, but close enough I don't think I'd notice unless I looked for it. I think the P7 head color may be a little bit "brighter" if anything. I wouldn't care if it were fluorescent orange for the performance that it gives! :thumbsup:That's only my opinion of course.

I try to not abuse my lights but I do USE them as tools. I figure it's going to get scratches / dings over the course of its life anyway so a little color difference wouldn't bother me anyway. Don't let the possibility of getting one that doesn't match exactly dissuade you - this thing is just too awesome to pass up for that!

I'll take some pictures in the sunlight if the weather clears here in Maryland this weekend and post 'em.

Thanks, very helpful.

dirtybore said:

I'll take some pictures in the sunlight if the weather clears here in Maryland this weekend and post 'em.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you could just turn it on, light everything up, and probably generate enough heat to clear the wx??? :tinfoil:

JNewell said:

Sounds like you could just turn it on, light everything up, and probably generate enough heat to clear the wx??? :tinfoil:

Click to expand...

Well... I'll be a son-of-a-gun! It worked!

That sucker just melted the clouds away!:tinfoil:

Now it's keeping us warm while the cold front moves in! I'm tellin' you all, this thing ROCKS !!!

Sear my eye sockets!!! The neighbors wonder what's going on over here!

WEEEEE! Take some!

Not the best sunlight for photography today, but here you go.

>Caution: large format pics<

Like I said it's pretty close, and for what this head does for my 'old school' M6 - it'd be fine if it were bright orange!

LOVE this thing! [if you couldn't tell]

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M63.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M62.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M61.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M60.jpg

So ... you get a product that almost caused a fatal failure and you are loving it? oo:

Well, to each his own, but I am eyeing mine (have one of the first run without any problem so far) susiciously now.
I can't trust it any more.

bernie

Thanks much - nice all the way around. Better than many of my L1s, L2s and A2s.

If only it had a low setting? Sometimes there is such a thing as too much light...(blasphemy? ).

dirtybore said:

Not the best sunlight for photography today, but here you go.

>Caution: large format pics<

Like I said it's pretty close, and for what this head does for my 'old school' M6 - it'd be fine if it were bright orange!

LOVE this thing! [if you couldn't tell]

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M63.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M62.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M61.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/dirtybore/Surefire_M6/SF_M60.jpg

Click to expand...

Kiessling said:

So ... you get a product that almost caused a fatal failure and you are loving it? oo:

Well, to each his own, but I am eyeing mine (have one of the first run without any problem so far) susiciously now.
I can't trust it any more.

bernie

Click to expand...

It only almost caused a failure because of operator (my) error. Now that I've got it assembled correctly, I do love it!

Fear not bernie, just don't short the springs out like I did