Runtime on a 3D maglite vs runtime on a 6D

SmurfTacular

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Im in the middle of my first Maglite mod (first flashlight mod in general). I'm putting a p7 LED w/ a heatsink in. I know that the p7 draws about 2.8 amps per hour. And I know that 1 D battery is 10 amps. Does that mean the runtime of a 3D Maglite is 10.7 hours and a 6D is 21.4? This might be a stupid question, but I'm still learning about electronics. Any explanation would be great.
 

JohnF

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Take a step back. Battery capacity is often rated in AH (amp hours). Device current consumption is measured in A (amps), and is an instantaneous reading.

So, your flashlight emitter is measured in A. Your estimation for a D alkaline cell makes no sense, but if you think it provides 10 AH you are off by a factor of 10 or so, at least.

If you are just interested in calculating run time, and not an overview of electronics, Google 'flashlight battery runtime' - there are calculators that will ask the current draw (2.8a)the AH rating of the battery, and will give you the approx. runtime.

John F
 

SmurfTacular

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haha, I figured 21 hours was ridiculous. I just thought that 2,800mAh meant that it draws 2,800mA per hour. And that if there where 60 amps then it would take 21 hours to drain the battery.
 
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Juggernaut

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Actually speaking the capacity of a Alkaline D cell is between 12 and 14 Ah, however you will not be able to drive a P7 off of them. A battery's capacity is directly related to it's internal resistance and how much you try to pull from it. At 0.25 A you should easily get the above capacity (12-14 Ah) however as you pull more power from it, the less "real" capacity you can actually get. There is no reason you can't pull 2.8 A from a Alkaline D cell, but it's voltage will immediately drop do to the intense draw on it's capacity, this in turn will drastically reduce it's capacity.

Example: A stock Maglite bulb pulls something like 0.63 A. One would suspect that it's run time would be 19 hours, however in reality it is closer to 9-10 hours, due to the sag in it's capacity from the "higher" 0.63 A draw. Also it's output reaches less then 50% in less then 1 and half hours of use, with the remaining 8.5 hours much dimmer then it started out.

I have tried to pull 2.5 A out of D cells before and when I should have gotten 2.5 hours of runtime I only got about 30 minuets of bright light with about 15 more of dimming. This is because of the drastic sag in capacity / voltage from such a high drain rate. As you can see this is why Alkalines will not make a good battery choice for your build.

NiCad / NiMH / Li Ion on the other hand can handle very high draw rates with little capacity drop.
 

SmurfTacular

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Actually speaking the capacity of a Alkaline D cell is between 12 and 14 Ah, however you will not be able to drive a P7 off of them. A battery's capacity is directly related to it's internal resistance and how much you try to pull from it. At 0.25 A you should easily get the above capacity (12-14 Ah) however as you pull more power from it, the less "real" capacity you can actually get. There is no reason you can't pull 2.8 A from a Alkaline D cell, but it's voltage will immediately drop do to the intense draw on it's capacity, this in turn will drastically reduce it's capacity.

Example: A stock Maglite bulb pulls something like 0.63 A. One would suspect that it's run time would be 19 hours, however in reality it is closer to 9-10 hours, due to the sag in it's capacity from the "higher" 0.63 A draw. Also it's output reaches less then 50% in less then 1 and half hours of use, with the remaining 8.5 hours much dimmer then it started out.

I have tried to pull 2.5 A out of D cells before and when I should have gotten 2.5 hours of runtime I only got about 30 minuets of bright light with about 15 more of dimming. This is because of the drastic sag in capacity / voltage from such a high drain rate. As you can see this is why Alkalines will not make a good battery choice for your build.

NiCad / NiMH / Li Ion on the other hand can handle very high draw rates with little capacity drop.

Wow you seem to know alot about batteries :bow:. What do you recomend I do with my mod? I bought everything except for batteries, the driver, and the actual Maglite. I cant decide between 3D and 4D (that's why I wanted to know the runtimes). And now your telling me that alkaline batteries are not my best solution. I've always know that alkalines have a higher volatage and typically last longer, but now your telling me that rechargeable nickel metal hydride or lithium ion batteries are the way to go. So your saying that a 1.2v nimh battery will last longer than a 1.5v alkaline in a p7?
 
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hoongern

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It depends on what driver you're using.

I assume you mean 4 Li-Ion (Lithium Cobalt or Lithium Manganese Rechargeable) cells which would give 3.7V*4 or about 14.8V. If your driver is meant to work with that high voltage, then it should be fine.

Just for reference, so you are aware of how things work:

The energy of a cell is measured by its capacity*voltage (This is simplified) - but say, a 3.3Ah / 3.7V Li-Ion has 3.3*3.7 = 12.21Wh of energy. So, 4 cells would have a total of 12.21*4 ~ 48.84Wh of energy.

However, an LED only works at a certain voltage range. For 2.8Amps of current, it will need (according to the seoul p7 datasheet) ~3.6volts. If you dump 15 volts into the LED, you'll *poof* it! (This is assuming you'd wire your 4 cells in series)

Now, with power=voltage*current, that's 3.6V*2.8A = 10.08W of power the LED needs.

This means your driver needs to supply 10.08W to the LED, which means that the driver needs at least 10.08W (Of course, in the real world it will be less efficient, so you'll need more).

So if you were using 4x 3.3Ah Lithium Ion cells at 3.7V each, the current running through them would be current = power/voltage = 10.08W/14.8V = 0.68A. At this rate, your cells would have a runtime of 3.3Ah/0.68A = 4.85hours. (You can also calculate this using the 48.84Wh energy from 4 cells - 48.84Wh/10.08W = 4.85hrs) Given inefficiencies - I'd put runtime around 4hours. I've never built this though, so I won't comment.

Regarding your question about nimh/alkaline, under heavy loads, alkaline has very high internal resistance, meaning that its voltage will sag and go down very quickly. Think of it this way: (a) An alkaline starts at 1.5V, but goes down VERY quickly. On the other hand, (b) A NiMh starts at ~ 1.4V, goes down to 1.2V and stays there for a much longer time, before running out of juice.

So, a NiMh is able to deliver a lot more juice than an alkaline.

But you can't really decide on a power source without looking at what your driver is spec'ed for - what voltage input range it accepts.
 

SmurfTacular

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It depends on what driver you're using.

I assume you mean 4 Li-Ion (Lithium Cobalt or Lithium Manganese Rechargeable) cells which would give 3.7V*4 or about 14.8V. If your driver is meant to work with that high voltage, then it should be fine.

Just for reference, so you are aware of how things work:

The energy of a cell is measured by its capacity*voltage (This is simplified) - but say, a 3.3Ah / 3.7V Li-Ion has 3.3*3.7 = 12.21Wh of energy. So, 4 cells would have a total of 12.21*4 ~ 48.84Wh of energy.

However, an LED only works at a certain voltage range. For 2.8Amps of current, it will need (according to the seoul p7 datasheet) ~3.6volts. If you dump 15 volts into the LED, you'll *poof* it! (This is assuming you'd wire your 4 cells in series)

Now, with power=voltage*current, that's 3.6V*2.8A = 10.08W of power the LED needs.

This means your driver needs to supply 10.08W to the LED, which means that the driver needs at least 10.08W (Of course, in the real world it will be less efficient, so you'll need more).

So if you were using 4x 3.3Ah Lithium Ion cells at 3.7V each, the current running through them would be current = power/voltage = 10.08W/14.8V = 0.68A. At this rate, your cells would have a runtime of 3.3Ah/0.68A = 4.85hours. (You can also calculate this using the 48.84Wh energy from 4 cells - 48.84Wh/10.08W = 4.85hrs) Given inefficiencies - I'd put runtime around 4hours. I've never built this though, so I won't comment.

Regarding your question about nimh/alkaline, under heavy loads, alkaline has very high internal resistance, meaning that its voltage will sag and go down very quickly. Think of it this way: (a) An alkaline starts at 1.5V, but goes down VERY quickly. On the other hand, (b) A NiMh starts at ~ 1.4V, goes down to 1.2V and stays there for a much longer time, before running out of juice.

So, a NiMh is able to deliver a lot more juice than an alkaline.

But you can't really decide on a power source without looking at what your driver is spec'ed for - what voltage input range it accepts.

Well luckily I already bought everything except the driver and batteries, maybe you can help me decide on that. I just want to run a single p7 LED out of a 3D Maglite. To you this might seem simple, but to me this is very complicated, considering I don't know anything about drivers. So can you recomend any drivers that are about $25 or less? All help is appreciated.
 

Juggernaut

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Incandescent are my preference, so I can't help you with LED drivers, all I know is you might be able to get away with just direct driving "not using a driver" off of 3x NiMH, or one Li-ion. This is because each setup will deliver 3.6 volts "what the LED wants: but you will lack any regulation "thus gradual decreasing output VS. Flat one" and depending on cells / the VF of the LED it might be damaged / underpowered by direct drive.

Here is a little diagram to show you what I mean:

Warning: [Auto correction spectrometer is only 14.98% Accurate] :p
 

GarageBoy

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You can get a buck driver and anything above the Vf of the LED will be regulated. You wont need a driver at all if you get 3D. (All you need is 3 NiMHs and a charger)
 

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