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Thread: nailbender mc-e module

  1. #1
    Enlightened
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    Default nailbender mc-e module

    Hi guys, I just picked up a nailbender mc-e module for my 6PLed and was wondering if it was normal for the head not to be able to screw all the way down with the module in? It is about a 1/4 inch from seating where it does with the factory module in.

    Any info is appreciated, thanks.

  2. #2
    Flashaholic* psychbeat's Avatar
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    try cutting a couple of rings of the spring off.
    its still probably not going to screw all of the way down
    my C2 has a small gap with the NB SST50 in there but
    its still water tight. I cut my spring a bit and it helped.

  3. #3
    Flashaholic
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Agreed about the spring. I have a nailbender sst50 and these larger leds sometimes don't allow the head to screw in all the way. Try cutting the spring down to one ring, just enough to make contcat with the pill. My sst50 screwed in all the way on my cl1h this way. The spring can be cut, just so long as it makes contact with the body.

  4. #4

    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Your head will not be able to screw all the way down with the spring even if only using one coil to fit the groove. I completely removed my spring and used several layers of aluminum foil for better heat-sinking and electrical contact. Seems to be working fine.

  5. #5
    Flashaholic* psychbeat's Avatar
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    ooooh Ill have to try that!
    Ive got aluminum printing plate strips in mine
    with some AS-5. maybe I wont need the spring at all.
    thanks!

  6. #6
    Flashaholic* psychbeat's Avatar
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    I jammed it in without the spring + the aluminum strips and

    IT WORKED head is now flush and light operates normally.

    here's a bad phone pic.


  7. #7

    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Quote Originally Posted by psychbeat View Post
    I jammed it in without the spring + the aluminum strips and

    IT WORKED head is now flush and light operates normally.

    here's a bad phone pic.

    BigChelis recommends using AS5 on the pill/reflector threads. Might wanna give that a try. I am considering it but i don't wanna screw anything up.

  8. #8
    Flashaholic* psychbeat's Avatar
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Be careful unscrewing the pill from the reflector- theres a little
    bit of glue/threadlock holding it usually. Then you need to
    scrape it all off and clean the threads before applying the AS-5.
    it gets EVERYWHERE! I made a total mess but did notice the batt tube
    get a little warmer afterwards. Big C has been getting some awesome results
    using it and the #s dont lie!

    I got mine at Rattshack for 10$ or so...

  9. #9
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Quote Originally Posted by anonymoususer View Post
    Your head will not be able to screw all the way down with the spring even if only using one coil to fit the groove. I completely removed my spring and used several layers of aluminum foil for better heat-sinking and electrical contact. Seems to be working fine.

    Those who have, would there be an advantage to leaving 1+ coil on. Better fit, less rattle, those kinda things?

    This is a C2 body, and I guess we could use the same Nailbender MC-E/SST-50 drop-ins to compare.

  10. #10

    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Quote Originally Posted by sfca View Post
    Those who have, would there be an advantage to leaving 1+ coil on. Better fit, less rattle, those kinda things?

    This is a C2 body, and I guess we could use the same Nailbender MC-E/SST-50 drop-ins to compare.
    With no spring, there is no rattle at all. And it is a pretty good fit, and a very tight fit with just a couple layers of aluminum foil. Don't bother using the spring.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Quote Originally Posted by anonymoususer View Post
    With no spring, there is no rattle at all. And it is a pretty good fit, and a very tight fit with just a couple layers of aluminum foil. Don't bother using the spring.
    Awesome, thanks! I was thinking of leaving one ring on next time just... well just cause!

  12. #12
    Flashaholic* bigchelis's Avatar
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    I don't use the spring.

    Take it off, but you need aluminum foil or copper strips for a tight fit and contact.

    I absolutely need the spring on the Solarforce L2 hosts, but with these hosts the bezels goes all the way down.
    Surefire 6P with Malkoff M60 simple, bright, efficient.

  13. #13

    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    I don't use the spring on L2 either. Just copper strips. Seems to work fine.

  14. #14

    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Be careful trying to screw the head all the way down, as you will compress the spring and then you may end up with an issue when it comes to conducting the heat. For the larger drop ins such as the SST-50 I have found that a Surefire M2 is the ideal host as the shock isolation of the head takes up some of the extra mass of the drop in, it is also very effective in conducting the heat generated. My SST-50 in 6P host gets hot, whereas in the M2 it does not.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    Quote Originally Posted by Croyde View Post
    Be careful trying to screw the head all the way down, as you will compress the spring and then you may end up with an issue when it comes to conducting the heat. For the larger drop ins such as the SST-50 I have found that a Surefire M2 is the ideal host as the shock isolation of the head takes up some of the extra mass of the drop in, it is also very effective in conducting the heat generated. My SST-50 in 6P host gets hot, whereas in the M2 it does not.
    Oooo I think that's another issue your speaking of about heat transfer.
    I'm not sure what you mean by compressing the spring though.

    Anyhow, the simple gist of it is supposed to be: good heat transfer = if it gets hot good, cause heat is being transfer to the head & body.

    If not, bad.
    Leave the M2 on a while, then take the drop-in out. If it's scorching hot - (SST-50 will be) heats not being transferred well.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: nailbender mc-e module

    I like to use a aluminium pop can too as show in this thread.

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