nailbender mc-e module

Hi guys, I just picked up a nailbender mc-e module for my 6PLed and was wondering if it was normal for the head not to be able to screw all the way down with the module in? It is about a 1/4 inch from seating where it does with the factory module in.

Any info is appreciated, thanks.

try cutting a couple of rings of the spring off.
its still probably not going to screw all of the way down
my C2 has a small gap with the NB SST50 in there but
its still water tight. I cut my spring a bit and it helped.

Agreed about the spring. I have a nailbender sst50 and these larger leds sometimes don't allow the head to screw in all the way. Try cutting the spring down to one ring, just enough to make contcat with the pill. My sst50 screwed in all the way on my cl1h this way. The spring can be cut, just so long as it makes contact with the body.

Your head will not be able to screw all the way down with the spring even if only using one coil to fit the groove. I completely removed my spring and used several layers of aluminum foil for better heat-sinking and electrical contact. Seems to be working fine.

ooooh Ill have to try that!
Ive got aluminum printing plate strips in mine
with some AS-5. maybe I wont need the spring at all.
thanks!

I jammed it in without the spring + the aluminum strips and

IT WORKED:twothumbs head is now flush and light operates normally.

here's a bad phone pic.

psychbeat said:

I jammed it in without the spring + the aluminum strips and

IT WORKED:twothumbs head is now flush and light operates normally.

here's a bad phone pic.

Click to expand...

BigChelis recommends using AS5 on the pill/reflector threads. Might wanna give that a try. I am considering it but i don't wanna screw anything up.

Be careful unscrewing the pill from the reflector- theres a little
bit of glue/threadlock holding it usually. Then you need to
scrape it all off and clean the threads before applying the AS-5.
it gets EVERYWHERE! I made a total mess but did notice the batt tube
get a little warmer afterwards. Big C has been getting some awesome results
using it and the #s dont lie!

I got mine at Rattshack for 10$ or so...

anonymoususer said:

Your head will not be able to screw all the way down with the spring even if only using one coil to fit the groove. I completely removed my spring and used several layers of aluminum foil for better heat-sinking and electrical contact. Seems to be working fine.

Click to expand...

Those who have, would there be an advantage to leaving 1+ coil on. Better fit, less rattle, those kinda things?

This is a C2 body, and I guess we could use the same Nailbender MC-E/SST-50 drop-ins to compare.

sfca said:

Those who have, would there be an advantage to leaving 1+ coil on. Better fit, less rattle, those kinda things?

This is a C2 body, and I guess we could use the same Nailbender MC-E/SST-50 drop-ins to compare.

Click to expand...

With no spring, there is no rattle at all. And it is a pretty good fit, and a very tight fit with just a couple layers of aluminum foil. Don't bother using the spring.

anonymoususer said:

With no spring, there is no rattle at all. And it is a pretty good fit, and a very tight fit with just a couple layers of aluminum foil. Don't bother using the spring.

Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks! :thumbsup: I was thinking of leaving one ring on next time just... well just cause!

I don't use the spring.

Take it off, but you need aluminum foil or copper strips for a tight fit and contact.

I absolutely need the spring on the Solarforce L2 hosts, but with these hosts the bezels goes all the way down.

I don't use the spring on L2 either. Just copper strips. Seems to work fine.

Croyde said:

Be careful trying to screw the head all the way down, as you will compress the spring and then you may end up with an issue when it comes to conducting the heat. For the larger drop ins such as the SST-50 I have found that a Surefire M2 is the ideal host as the shock isolation of the head takes up some of the extra mass of the drop in, it is also very effective in conducting the heat generated. My SST-50 in 6P host gets hot, whereas in the M2 it does not.

Click to expand...

Oooo I think that's another issue your speaking of about heat transfer.
I'm not sure what you mean by compressing the spring though.

Anyhow, the simple gist of it is supposed to be: good heat transfer = if it gets hot good, cause heat is being transfer to the head & body.

If not, bad.
Leave the M2 on a while, then take the drop-in out. If it's scorching hot - (SST-50 will be) heats not being transferred well.

I like to use a aluminium pop can too as show in this thread.