Looking to start EDCing a light again, need advice

Balog

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Aug 9, 2005
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I'll be using the handy-dandy form I found over at EDCforums that I believe originated here.


1) Short Essay Question: What do you intend to use this light for?

General EDC. I want to be able to clip it to a pocket and forget about it until needed. Doesn't need to be able to blind and dazzle a bad guy, although the brighter the better all else being equal. My requirements are a bit loose so I'll probably mark multiple boxes.

2) What Region/Country/State will the light be purchased in?
[x] I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.
[ ] I am in _______(country) and __________(state/providence).

3) Price Range: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!
[ ] $1-15
[ ] $15-30
[x] $40-60
[x] $80-$120
[ ] I have no limit!

4) Format:
PART A
[x] I want a flashlight.
[ ] I want a headlamp.
[ ] I want a lantern.
[ ] I want a portable spotlight.

PART B
Length:
[x] 1-2 inches. (Keychain sized)
[x] 2-4 inches. (Pocket carry)
[ ] 4-9 inches. (Holster carry)

PART C
Width:
[ ] I prefer a long narrow light.
[ ] I prefer a short wide light.
[x] Doesn't matter.

PART D
Weight:
Lights of a similar size can be very different in weight and may turn the perfect sized light into a paper weight. In general a lights of the same size will stack up like this; plastic and aluminum will be your lighter choices brass, stainless steel, bronze will be heavier. I won't put numbers here because everyone has a different weight sensitivity. For the purposes of EDC specifically I'll limit the choices here to the more easily carried sizes pick 2 sizes to represent a range of weight.
[x] Very light, can't tell it's there.
[x] Light, no heavier than a few keys or a small car remote.
[x] Medium light, about the weight of a AAA MiniMag
[x] Medium, slightly heavier than a AA MiniMag
[ ] Heavy Medium, can of Coke
[ ] Heavy, PDA or small digital camera

5) What kind of "bulb".
[x] LED - more rugged, unlikely to burn out in your lifetime, less accurate color rendition, in general less output but more efficient (longer runtimes)
[ ] Incandescent - can be very bright, more accurate color rendition, burn out or can be damaged more easily, shorter runtimes, very noticeable dimming as batteries deplete
[ ] HID - like new car headlights in color, very, very bright, can be had in lights as small as a Mag 2 D cell but generally larger spotlight sized lights, no dimming turns off when battery depletes
[ ] Don't care, just want the best fit for my needs.

6) What batteries do you want to use? Alkaline batteries are easier to find and less expensive but don't pack as much stored energy and are don't work well in cold temperatures. Lithium batteries have long shelf life (10+ years, great for stored emergency lights) and are not as affected by cold but must be kept dry and are more expensive. Rechargeable start expensive, but if used frequently pay off quickly.
[x] I want common Alkaline batteries. (AA, AAA, C, D)
[x] I want lithium batteries. (coin cells, CR123, AAA, AA...)
[x] I want a rechargeable system. (an investment, but best for everyday use)

A rechargeable system would be nice, but failing that I want to stick to AA or AAA batteries. If I could use rechargeables in those sizes that'd be great too. Nothing against CR123's or other less common sizes, I just prefer the easy availability of the standards.

7) How much light do you want? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).
[x] I want to read a map, find a light switch/keyhole, or get around the house at w/o disturbing anyone. (5-10 lumens)
[x] I want to walk around a generally paved area. (15-20 lumens)
[x] I want to walk unpaved trails. (40 lumens)
[x] I want to do Caving or Search & Rescue operations. (60+ lumens)
[x] I want to light an entire campground or dazzle an intruder. (100+ lumens)

Ideally, I'd like a single light with 2-3 different output levels. However, I'm also a fan of simplicity in UI so one output level would not be an issue if that's the only way to get a simple UI. I don't want to learn Morse Code to turn my light on, nor do I want to click out a precisely timed marimba rhythm to achieve the level I want. :)

8) Throw vs Flood: Which do you prefer, lights that flood an area with a wide beam, or lights that "throw" with a tightly focused beam? Place an "X" on the line below. Sometimes a flood is better particularly closer up or indoors. You won't have to "sweep" the light back and forth to see what you need to see. You can also just set it down pointing the general direction rather having to point it right at that which you are working.

Throw (distance)----------------------|-x---------------------Flood/close-up

I'm ambivalent on this. Rather depends on the output, as well. I think the weaker the output, the more focused the beam would need to be.

9) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims (like some LED lights). but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries. Understand that runtime is a function of brightness and capacity of your batteries. If you want 6 hours you'll either have big batteries or dimmer light, they haven't made a setup yet that lights up like the sun, runs all night, and fits in your watch pocket. ;)
[ ] 20 min. (I want the brightest light for brief periods)
[x] 60-240 min. (1-2 hours)
[ ] 240-360 min. (4-6 hours)
[ ] 360+ min. (More than 6 hours)

10) Durability: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.
[ ] Not Important (A "night-stand" light.)
[ ] Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood.)
[x] Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box.)
[ ] Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Self-defense, Survival.)

11) Switch Type:
[ ] I don't care.
[ ] sliding switch (Stays on until slid back.)
[x] clickie switch. (Stays on until pressed again.)
[ ] momentary switch. (Only stays on while held down.)
[ ] rotating switch

In my usage I've generally preferred the clickie, but I'm open to other options that are quickly and easily usable one handed, and resist accidental activation in a pocket.

12) Switch Location:
[ ] I don't care.
[ ] I want a push or sliding switch on the body near the head.
[x] I want a push switch on the back end of the body.
[ ] I want a rotating head switch.
[ ] I want a rotating end-cap switch.
[ ] I want a remote control.

Again, my current preferrence but I'm open to ideas.

13) Operational Modes: Check all that apply.
[ ] A simple on-off is fine for me.
[x] I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
[x] I want multiple light levels. (some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
[ ] I want a strobe mode. (blinks to show location.)
[ ] I want a tactical strobe. (Flashes rapidly to disorient an opponent.)
[ ] I want S.O.S. flashing

I hate strobes and fancy modes that complicate the interface. I'd actually consider that a negative, although if it was "hidden" or otherwise out of the way I might consider it.

14) Is it important whether the body is metal or plastic/composite? In this case "plastic" and it's variants does not mean "cheap" or poorly made. In many applications a plastic bodied light is preferable, hard use and water resistance comes to mind; think caving or lights that get dropped or abused.
[x] I don't care.
[ ] I want a metal-bodied light.
[ ] I want a plastic/composite light.

15) Special Needs: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Circle any below or write in your own comment(s).
[ ] Red (night vision preserving) filter
[ ] Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________)
[ ] Waterproof – how deep: _____________
[ ] Non-reflective/dark finish (stealthy/hard to find)
[ ] Polished silver or brightly colored finish (for easy locating)
[ ] Corrosion resistant or hard-anodized finish
[ ] "Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
[ ] Built-in second (or spare) lamp or filament
[ ] Belt/Jacket clip
[ ] Holster
[ ] Wrist/Neck Lanyard
[ ] Kuboton/self defense features
[ ] Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
[x] Tail standable

Non rolling would be nice too, but not essential.


I realize the exact light I'm looking for may not be out there, but if you know of one that meets a lot of the criteria above I'm happy to hear about that as well.
 

ninemm

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Well, up until the tail standing part I was thinking of the 4Seven's Preon II. I have the black model and it is a great EDC light. Fits in shirt or pants pocket and I don't even realize it is there. 3 levels of brightness and the strobe/sos/beacon modes are hidden. Nice touch is that it doesn't take a full "click" of that tailcap to change levels, a soft press will do.
http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_332_367&products_id=2086
 

Balog

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Hmm, interesting. I like the small form factor on that Preon. I've also heard good things about the LiteFlux LF2XT and EagleTac's P20C2 MkII. I'm not sure about the "twist the bezel to change output levels" though, anyone had issues with the head either coming unscrewed or accidentally closing to the highest setting? I'd hate to try to light up a map and find the light had accidentally switched to 300 lumens.
 

UpChUcK

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May I suggest the ITP A3 EOS 1xAAA or the Maratac AAA from countycomm.com (made byt ITP/Olight). I have both and they are small and bright w/ 3 levels and a simple twisty switch. I've never had a problem using twisties.

For a 1xAA or 1x123, look at the Quark MiniAA & Mini123 for 3-level twisties or the Nitecore EZAA & EZ123 for a 2-level. I have the Mini123 and its output is impressive for such a small light. Quark also has a MiniCR2 1xCR2 that is even smaller than the 123 cell.
 

Buckley

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I also highly recommend the ITP Eos A3 3-mode. I have been EDC'ing this light for the past several months, and it is nearly perfect for the task. The only one of your criteria that it doesn't meet is the switch: It is a twisty rather than a clicky. But for pocket carry, I much prefer it, since it is much less likely to be activated inadvertently.

For an excellent review of both the ITP/Maratac (essentially the same light) and its higher class cousin the IllumnaTi, click here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/256314

Good hunting!
 

sailah

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Jan 13, 2010
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I just sent my ITP/Olight AAA titanium back for repair after 4 months. Good customer service but light quality is about average.

I like the 3 modes, but they are not memory so you have to cycle back to the mode you want. On the plus side, it is unreal small and super bright with either Nimh or 10440. I bought some protected ultrafire 10440 and they don't fit, too long.

If I hadn't gotten this light as a package I probably would have sprung for the Preon or most likely the Lightflux.
 

OCD

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St. Louis, MO
+1 on the Maratac AAA. I have the stainless version. A tad heavier than the aluminum, but I still have to regularly check my pocket to make sure it is still there!
 

Balog

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Ok, so candidates so far (on this thread and over at EDCforums) are:

4Seven's Preon II
LiteFlux LF2XT
EagleTac's P20C2
ITP A3 EOS 1xAAA
Maratac AAA
Quark MiniAA
Nitecore EZAA
Zebralight SC50
Nitecore D10
Fenix LD10+/20+

Whew. That's a lot of options. Looks like I've got some research to do. :) Any other contenders to throw into the mix?
 

Lighthearted1

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Ok, so candidates so far (on this thread and over at EDCforums) are:

4Seven's Preon II
LiteFlux LF2XT
EagleTac's P20C2
ITP A3 EOS 1xAAA
Maratac AAA
Quark MiniAA
Nitecore EZAA
Zebralight SC50
Nitecore D10
Fenix LD10+/20+

Whew. That's a lot of options. Looks like I've got some research to do. :) Any other contenders to throw into the mix?


OK, I recommend the Quark Regular AA.
It fits all of your requirements, including tail stand, and clicky.
You can use AA eneloops, or AA alkaline, plus 14500 li-ion 3.7V batteries (up to 206 lumens OTF).

Cree XP-G R5
5 Current Regulated Output Levels. Very well spaced, including very low moonlight mode.
Simply user interface.
Strong, but light weight.
It is compatible with the Quark Prizm diffuser if you want to use it as a headlight.

Visit his web page for all the specs., it is impressive for the price $57 less 8% discount (free shipping too).
You can find a link to his site, and discount code here
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=181841

Length: 3.8 inches
Diameter: 0.86 inches
Weight: 1.8 ounces
 
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ninemm

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Whew. That's a lot of options. Looks like I've got some research to do. :) Any other contenders to throw into the mix?

I didn't recommend any earlier, but perhaps a multi level Surefire (used most likely: see cpfmarketplace.com) could fit the bill. Models to think about: L1 Lumamax and E1B. I just picked up my brand new E1B off of eBay for $115 shipped. Great light, super bright high with good throw and a very usable low.
 

UpChUcK

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Messages
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Location
SE Michigan
Ok, so candidates so far (on this thread and over at EDCforums) are:

4Seven's Preon II
LiteFlux LF2XT
EagleTac's P20C2
ITP A3 EOS 1xAAA
Maratac AAA
Quark MiniAA
Nitecore EZAA
Zebralight SC50
Nitecore D10
Fenix LD10+/20+

Whew. That's a lot of options. Looks like I've got some research to do. :) Any other contenders to throw into the mix?


From your list, the brightest is the ET P20C2 especially if it is the Mk II XP-G R5 which is 300 lumens OTF (out the front). I have the T20C2 that is slightly larger than the P. If you want a very bright light with a nice medium and decent low and don't mind the size, this is an obvious choice. Another thing I like about it is the flashing modes are hidden. The low level is too bit thankfully it is the first of the hidden modes.

Beyond that, any on your short list would be great EDC's.:twothumbs
 

Festivus

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Apr 16, 2010
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I am a noob, but I recently bought a flashlight which I believe fits your bill... jetbeam rrt-0.

So far no complaints from myself about the light, except I felt scammed by a retail stores price on cr123's... you can find the batteries much cheaper online.
 

Balog

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Hmm, so I did. D'oh!

I looked it up, and it seems one has to twist on->off repeatedly to get to the high mode. I'm borderline on twisty to start, and that seems an awkward UI.

Speaking of suggestions I overlooked, add the Jetbeam RRT-0 to the list.

Actually, just starting to read up on the Jetbeam that looks like a good contender. Any issues with the adjusting ring getting loose over time?
 
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Lighthearted1

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Hmm, the website lists it's max output as 109 lumens? Is there that much of a difference with the li-ions?

http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_305&products_id=1597


Yes there is! Exactly. See specs of the 123 that gets that 206 max on 3.7V cell. The head is one and the same, so is the output.

I have one with a 14500 in it now. It has the versatility of AA batteries available everywhere though at 109 lm for max. Still very good output, but it is just as easy to charge the 14500 as any 1.2V cell, and have 206 lm when I want to. Yes, I do like brighter.
 

Lighthearted1

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I haven't mentioned that I really like the UI on the regular Quark.
Here is why. With the light off I have a choice of turning it on at the lowest setting or the highest. I know by checking if the head is tight or not.

If the head is tight it will come on blazing full power!
If the head is twisted loose 1/4 turn or more then I know it will come on at only .2 lumen moonlight setting. If I want more light, then a soft press on the rear switch kicks it up one level to low, push again and go up to med. etc...
If I need high instantly, I just twist the head tight for full power.

So for map reading I will always make sure the head is loose and then switch it on. If the lowest is too dim, other choices are right there.
Speaking of reading, Quark lights have an optional 90 degree diffuser and headband available. Great when you need hands free.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=202968&highlight=quark+prizm

Good luck with your researching.
 
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Balog

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That's very interesting Lighthearted1: I'd assume that takes two hands? Have you ever noticed the bezel unscrewing more after it is left loose for the moonlight mode?
 

Lighthearted1

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I am able to switch between loose and tight with one hand, not a problem. I do lube the threads now and then.
The light stays lit when loose until you remove it completely from the body.
That requires about 4 complete revolutions. It will never fall off by accident.

That's very interesting Lighthearted1: I'd assume that takes two hands? Have you ever noticed the bezel unscrewing more after it is left loose for the moonlight mode?

There is resistance so it does not loosen. It is not super easy to tighten and loosen with one hand, just not a problem.

Oh, I didn't tell you that you can reverse the clip so to speak. The clip is held to the body by a locking ring, very secure (unlike many other brands).
If you keep the config that comes from the factory, the clip in your pocket will hold the head facing down for protection (Oh the lens glass has a super hard coating on the outside for extra protection).
However, you can also take the head and tail off and switch places, thereby reversing the clip.
This is useful if you want to clip it to a cap visor for hands free use.

Now you got me started!
This Quark is a system, and you can even order other battery tubes, like the one for 18650 3.7V cells that will triple your burn time over the 14500(but now longer overall to about 5.5 inches). The kit with the light includes a nice lanyard, a nice rubber finger gripper, a split ring, a high quality belt holster, and one battery, all with free shipping! The packaging is first rate as well. The warranty is 10 years! ....For the price, and such high quality and design it is a true bargain.
 
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