shining beam 2500mA driver wiring?

jez

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Hello guys,

Newb alert!

I've searched for my answer and checked FAQs and I only seem to get lots on sandwich driving with diagrams but nothing on basics

Can someone point me in the right direction of where to solder my wires on to this driver.

It already has red and black on there which i'll replace and I'm guessing these are the LED supply and return?
So I'll need the battery positive and negative locations.

It's going in a 3d NiMH maglite with P7.

Thanks very much

Jez.
 

^Gurthang

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Welcome to CFP! Glad to have you aboard.

The driver: The red goes + to the LED, the black is - [neg] to LED

on the base: outer ring is - [neg], inter pad is +

You don't indicate if the emitter is bare or mounted on a star, keep in mind that the P7 base is + so if you're going "bareback" you'll need to keep the emitter isolated from ground using a non-conductive adhesive.

Do a search in this forum for plenty of M@G builds & tutorials. Good luck and have fun.
 

ti-force

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I know Gurthang already answered your question, but I though I'd include a picture that I put together a while back:




IMG_7750copy.jpg
 

jez

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Many thanks for the replies :)

Next problem is that with 3 fully charged D cells on max setting it is only drawing 1.5A not 2.5-2.8A???

I have the 3 modes and memory works just low current on high?

I bought 2 boards and both do the same thing?

I'm using 3 ansmann 10000mAh NiMH cells for info.

The P7 is Arctic thermal glued to one of setapong's P7 HAIII heatsinks.

Hope you can help

Jez.
 

Mettee

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Can you post a pic of the actual board you have in your hand?

Does it have little black chips on both sides?

Chances are you got the XPG boards those are 1.5 amp boards.
 

jez

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Hi Mettee,

My photobucket account is messing around but the board is double sided.

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-132/3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit-Board/Detail

My boards however have the 2 legs on the atmel board covered by the red wire in the link soldered together?
Do you think this is right? There are 8 off 7135's. 1 off is an L7135 with 0944 under it, 1 has 35x under it and the other 6 have 35s under them.

Does this help?

Jez
 

jez

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Forgot to add that I took the current measurements at the tail cap and also output from driver to LED.
 

uk_caver

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Do you know what the Vf of your P7 is at various currents? (only really possible to measure accurately if measuring voltage +current at the same time).

Is the ~1.5A stable, or does it fluctuate?
 

jez

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uk_caver,

The 1.5A is stable.

The P7 is a W724C0-DSWOI from shdwkeeper so has a Vf bin of 3.25 - 3.5v

Can you tell me how I go about getting the figures your after?

thanks

Jez
 

ti-force

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What meter are you using? Certain meters aren't that accurate when measuring DC current.

Are you using alligator clips or anything like that or just leads?

Are all contact points clean (you might want to clean them with rubbing alcohol).

What gauge wire did you use from the switch to the driver?

How long are your wires from the switch to the driver?

Do your solder joints look good?
 
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jez

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Meter is a Fluke 179 true rms meter
24 gauge wire used. 1.5" from switch to board and about 2" from board to LED.
Croc clips for the meter.

Any ideas what the two soldered pins on the ATMEL chip do?

Thanks
 

ti-force

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Well, I don't think it's your meter :D. Do you have another set of batteries you can try?

Did you leave the pre-soldered LED + and LED - wires on the driver or did you replace them with 24 gauge wire? It sounds like you did, but I'm just checking. I don't think the small wires would cause that much resistance (typically 2.5A instead of 2.8A), but it is added resistance.

Does the light flicker or anything? Soldered joints?
 
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jez

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Yeah I changed the pre soldered ones for 24 gauge.

Just seems odd. only 4 wires to put on and it doesn't seem right.

I must be missing something, maybe a shorting link of some sort somewhere???????

I might get a KD one sent to me and try that just to see i'm not being a numpty.

Ta
 

ti-force

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When you soldered Battery - to the driver, did you solder near any of the gold stars on the spring side of the driver?

Any chance you could take some pictures of the soldered wires on the top and bottom of the driver? I know it's aggravating, but.....
 
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jez

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My work camera is pants but here are the best I could get.

sbdriver006.jpg


sbdriver005.jpg


Off to bed now it's late UK time :candle:

I'll pick this up again later

Thank again for your suggestions.
 
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cmacclel

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Looks like you have a high VF LED. Bypass the driver and see what you draw for current.

Mac
 

uk_caver

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The P7 is a W724C0-DSWOI from shdwkeeper so has a Vf bin of 3.25 - 3.5v
If that's the standard Vf, isn't that at 1400mA.
From the datasheet, it looks like the Vf difference between a P7 at 1400mA and one at 2800mA is something like an extra 0.2-0.25v.
 
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