Got mine Wednesday from the good folks at Lighthound, this thing is sweet! And the Solarforce LED head rated .8~4.7V promises some long runtime. But I've got a question concerning batteries. Right now I'm running with Energizer Lithium cells, but is anyone using Lithium Ion cells in an L2r? Say a single cell with a dummy. Ohms law is should work, but there is the real world.
Solarforce L2r...oh yea!
- Thread starter chiphead
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Wiggle
Flashlight Enthusiast
It should work just fine.
If you get a 2x Li-ion compatible drop-in you can also do 2 x 14500 which is a bit better use of space. I sometimes run 2 x 14500 in a Solarforce L2mini + 18650 extension, little bit of rattle but not too bad.
If you get a 2x Li-ion compatible drop-in you can also do 2 x 14500 which is a bit better use of space. I sometimes run 2 x 14500 in a Solarforce L2mini + 18650 extension, little bit of rattle but not too bad.
Midnight Oil
Enlightened
Hey guys,
With 2AAs in my L2r, the top cell sticks up about 1/4 of an inch above the bottom of the head socket. With a drop-in installed and the tailcap off, the bottom cell sticks out about 3/8 of an inch pass the end of the body tube, and I have a hard time screwing down the taicap. The tailcap spring is also very stiff. Is this consistent with your L2rs? Thanks.
With 2AAs in my L2r, the top cell sticks up about 1/4 of an inch above the bottom of the head socket. With a drop-in installed and the tailcap off, the bottom cell sticks out about 3/8 of an inch pass the end of the body tube, and I have a hard time screwing down the taicap. The tailcap spring is also very stiff. Is this consistent with your L2rs? Thanks.
Yeah you can do that, but the whole point of getting the Solarforce L2R is so that you can use regular 1.2V-1.5V Alkaline/NiMH/Lithium AA batteries. If your going to use Li-Ion batteries, you mine as well get a regular Solarforce L2 and use either 2xCR123, 2x16340 or 1 18650 and also have a shorter flashlight.
Of my 2 L2Rs, both are like you where the batteries stick out 1/4" and I don't have any problems screwing down the tailcap on either of the two I have. In my opinion, a stiff spring is a good thing because you get better contact to the batteries...as I usually see loose springs having the more chance of causing flickering.
Midnight Oil
Enlightened
Thanks, ace.
My drop-in is from Nailbender. Maybe it's quite a bit longer than the typical P60 module?
I have a feeling the drop-in spring is getting crushed.
It really feels like it takes more than 7 lbs of force to push the tailcap down to the end of the body tube so the threads can meet.
My drop-in is from Nailbender. Maybe it's quite a bit longer than the typical P60 module?
I have a feeling the drop-in spring is getting crushed.
It really feels like it takes more than 7 lbs of force to push the tailcap down to the end of the body tube so the threads can meet.
You too! I first thought I'd gotten one with some bad machining, but I'd rather have it tight loose and rattling.
Tonight I'm going to run some rechargables (Eneloop, Tenergy, Energizer) to see how it works out.
chiphead
Usually with Solarforce L2s, the new 18650 compatible ones, people complain about the bore size being a little on the big side and so the 18650 battery loosely drop in and will rattle a little...if you're using 2xCR123/16340, then you will definitely experience battery rattle. In the case of the L2R, I like that they made the bore size a little big because NiMH batteries, which are always a bit on the thick side compared to alkalines, easily slide into the body tube...and they don't rattle either.
