Maratac AAA vs. Maratac AA (or other suggestion)

Which is, well, better? I am replacing my iTP A3 E0S which refuses to stay on - a thread issue. The Maratac's have much stronger threads, I've been told. Now, the iTP A3 E0S is heavy on my chain (for a keychain), so I was wondering if the weight of an AA battery might be a factor in deciding for the AAA.

Besides that, do these come with keychains already? Not that it is an issue, but I want to make sure. Also, how do their low/med/high ability work? I thought it was a twist the cap activation.

ANYWAY, I am in need of a new keychain light (I feel naked without one!) If there is any keychain light with a switch activation it will automatically win, as I am still upset at my iTP (the threads are so weak that, after screwing it on, twisting it off results in the spring popping the battery out with the cap). But I will listen to any suggestions, you guys rock!

I don't understand why you'd consider the AA when you already feel the AAA is too heavy. Also, it seems that you have the standard A3 (one mode); the multi-modes are the tiniest bit bigger, so if you felt your A3 was too heavy, you may want to get something like a streamlight nano or something else that runs on button cells.

I haven't tried the Maratacs yet, and my favorite is the solid copper one, that has to weigh a ton. But if an AAA light is too heavy for your keys, basically you should be looking for something smaller rather than bigger. I'm very happy with my LPK since I don't feel like I need a bright light on my keys. If you want something bright, you're left with something like a Drake or Wee.

I have the impression ITP is the manufacturer of the Quark Minis, which have recurring thread issues, so it doesn't surprise me that the ITP branded lights are the same way. In my experience Fenixes have pretty good threads. I've had several Fenix 1aaa lights and have been happy with the construction of all of them. They are a tad more expensive than ITP/Quark-mini but IMO they are better made.

There is also the classic Arc AAA...

It's not that it is too heavy. It's just I wanted to see if anyone else thought that any of them were unwieldy on a key chain. I am sure I could adapt to any size keychain light.

Do any of these keychain lights have a switch activation? A button-press seems like it'd be a terrible thing in a pocket.

The aluminum AAA will go practically unnoticed one a key chain. There's nothing to it! If you need to go smaller than this, give up the output and put a $1 fauxton on your ring.

Patriot said:

The aluminum AAA will go practically unnoticed one a key chain. There's nothing to it! If you need to go smaller than this, give up the output and put a $1 fauxton on your ring.

Click to expand...

So the AA will be fine, since I am really not concerned with size. I was only wondering if it was too big for a keychain - and it obviously is not. And no one seems to be answering my more important questions about it - such as how it operates and if it is any good.

I have an ITP A3 on a neck lanyard. It is only the samllest bit heavier than the aluminum ones & still going to be a lot lighter than a AA light in aluminum.

I have had zero issues with threads on these lights (8+ ti, al & ss) & would not compare the threads on these lights with the mini Quarks.

Try an aluminum A3 would be my advice or the al Maratac (if the inflated s&h does not bother you). That's if you like the light to begin with.

Titanium lights frequently have more complaints about threads than steel or aluminum of the same model.
Have never heard of one of these A3's that will not "stay on" though.

belomeclone said:

So the AA will be fine, since I am really not concerned with size. I was only wondering if it was too big for a keychain - and it obviously is not. And no one seems to be answering my more important questions about it - such as how it operates and if it is any good.

Click to expand...

The Maratac AA has the same knurling and operates as fine as AAA (one hand).

But due to the bigger form factor it could be not as easy to operate as AAA
(if you have big hands then won't be an issue, though).

Important note: its spot is tighter than ITP A3 EOS and Maratac AAA so I'd say is not very adequate for short distances.
Also the mode sequence is L-M-H intead the M-L-H in the AAA.

I have five iTP torches and have never had trouble with the threads ... However , as with my other torches , I do clean the threads and lubricate the O-rings on all torches ... I also check the fit of the spring to make sure that it is a tight fit in the body and has sufficient tension ...

It would be difficult to get a smaller and lighter torch than the A3 ... My A3 titanium weighs only 28.3 grams and my A3 stainless is only 35 grams (both with battery) ... My black A2 is only 48.4 grams , but the stainless A2 is quite heavy at 67.4 grams (both with battery) ... Even the black A1 is only 37.4 grams with battery and that is plenty powerful though a bit chunkier than the A2 or A3 ... I carry mine using the clip in a pocket with a velcro flap ... Gotta have a pocket with a flap as I nearly lost one torch when the car seatbelt pulled it out and I found it later between the seat and the door.

For both my keyrings I have stainless Energiser torches that use button cells as it is small ... The Energiser is heavier at 42.9 grams including its lobster-claw clip ... So , at 28.3 grams the A3 titanium is much lighter and brighter really ... I might have to consider putting one of my A3s on one of my keyrings , perhaps the 35 gram stainless one ... I didn't realise how heavy the Energisers were till just now when I weighed them.

If the Eneloop AAs or AAAs are replaced by Lithium primaries the weight will come down even more ... I will stick with Eneloops at the moment for EDC torches though I am considering going for Lithium primaries just to keep in the car , as they last for years.

Good Luck with your choice of keyring torch.
.

Chauncey Gardner said:

I have an ITP A3 on a neck lanyard. It is only the samllest bit heavier than the aluminum ones & still going to be a lot lighter than a AA light in aluminum.

I have had zero issues with threads on these lights (8+ ti, al & ss) & would not compare the threads on these lights with the mini Quarks.

Try an aluminum A3 would be my advice or the al Maratac (if the inflated s&h does not bother you). That's if you like the light to begin with.

Titanium lights frequently have more complaints about threads than steel or aluminum of the same model.
Have never heard of one of these A3's that will not "stay on" though.

Click to expand...

Any idea where to find one online? (And that it is titanium and not a misleading buy.)

The only complaints I have seen regarding Quark threads were on the Mini 123. I have 2 of the Mini AA as well as several of the regular Quarks and I have no thread issues on any of them.

The Maratacs operate like any other multilevel twisty, ie, once you twist it on, a quick off/on changes to the next level. The aluminum Maratac AA and AAA lights have a different sequence for their levels. The AA is low/medium/high, the aluminum AAA is medium/low/high. The new copper AAA, however, is low/medium/high.

I don't have any of the Maratac lights yet but many here have commented that they are a good light, especially for their price. I seem to remember a number of comments about the keychain attachment on the AAA being weak, but look through the earlier versions of the Maratac AAA thread to be sure.

If you like the medium/low/high sequence, another light to consider is the Fenix LD01. I have 2 of the previous version, the L0D Q4, and love them. They are very small. I still consider them too large for carrying on my keychain, but that's just my opinion. I'm more for the fauxton type for keychain carry.

I have seen pics of the Maratac AA and AAA side by side and the AA looks much larger than the AAA, which may be important to you for keychain carry.

Thank you for your reply. Personally, I only like having one light level - that being high, but I suppose I could handle a multi-level sequence. It should not be that difficult to use.

Were the comments about the keychain attachment, or the place it attaches on the light?

I assume, in terms of strength, it goes aluminum < copper < titanium?

I think the comments were regarding the snap ring that the Maratac uses as a keychain attachment point. I remember someone found a stronger snap ring at a hardware store. You should be able to find the size somewhere in the thread.

I don't know about the relative strengths. I would guess that titanium is the strongest, but I don't know which is stronger between aluminum and copper. I think of titanium as being popular because it does not show scratches so easily, but it also doesn't conduct heat as well and a number of people have mentioned problems with threads on titanium lights. These characteristics make titanium unattractive to me for flashlights. But again, that's just the way I look at things.

I will skip Titanium then. Also because it does not come in black.

http://countycomm.com/aaa.html

Is that a reputable site? It looks like a child made it. Where can I buy Maratacs? There seems to be startlingly low information on them outside of sites like these. But, short of buying another iTP, it is my best lead so far for a replacement keychain light.

Edit: So yeah, countrycomm is the site. Is it true they have 8 dollar shipping? Rather high. The AA Maratec seems to get great reviews, I think I am leaning towards that one. Anyone care to push me away or towards it? I am adding some sizable things to my keychain so it should be fine, sizewise.

My other main question is - how does the flashlight work, exactly? As I have said, I really only require the HIGH mode. Now, I understand quick cap twists will bring me to High, but is that something I need to do every time to get to high? Or will it stay at high after my first set of quick cap twists and I'll be done with it?

belomeclone said:

My other main question is - how does the flashlight work, exactly? As I have said, I really only require the HIGH mode. Now, I understand quick cap twists will bring me to High, but is that something I need to do every time to get to high? Or will it stay at high after my first set of quick cap twists and I'll be done with it?

Click to expand...

You'll always need to twist 3 times the head to set high mode, as it doesn't have mode memory...

That sounds like it'd be incredibly annoying. They don't make many lights with mode memory or single mode, do they?

Why did I spend the past thirty minutes falling in love with the Maratac AA?

Edit: Shall I start looking for an alternate keychain light? Most people seem to suggest the Maratec or iTP line, but there must be other brands. Nitecore or Quark?

You may want to go with a Liteflux 2XT (clicky) or 2X (twisty).
It works with a AAA or 10440 Li-ion battery. It's very powerful and has
mode memory. You can set that mode according to your preference.

Otherwise there's a lot of cheap single mode flashlights at DX or any other HK dealer.
Wouldn't cost too much trying a few.

Definitely check out the LiteFlux LF2XT. Should give every feature you want.

Geoff

The LiteFlux does seem really awesome, except it is 62 dollars. I could buy such powerful flashlights for 62 dollars, I can't justify a keychain light at that price.

I found that a 1aaa light was too big for my keychain no matter what, and switched to smaller lights. $62 is not that much for a high quality light and you shouldn't make the newbie error of going purely by output. Some people spend $500+ on production keychain lights (the original SF Titan went for that much) and even more for custom ones. If you just want a basic 1aaa keychain light, try the Fenix E01 at $15 or so, but it's a 5mm led, probably comparable to the ITP in low mode. If you want something of comparable output to the ITP -and- higher quality, you're going to have to pay for it, there's no escape. IMO the Fenix LD01 is pretty well made and is a 3 level light with intelligent programming.

There is a Streamlight 1aaa light with a clickie that some CPF'ers like; I forget the model name but it is a probably slightly larger than your ITP.

If you want small cheap lights, just get a bag of ten Fauxtons from DX for 45 cents each. They are quite functional and are all anyone really needs on their keys. Anything fancier is just flashaholism.