Photon Freedom cr2032 - Always On

This week I ordered a Photon Freedom and a 2032 from Battery Junction. I need a very low level light with on/off to attach to headgear or magnetically to a clip board. When I install the 2032 the light will not turn off. I felt this must be a common issue yet my searches have not helped. Also, on the inside of the light is a 2003. Is this the date of manufacture?

This problem also occurs with and older Freedom. I have tried different new and tested batteries. I contacted PhotonLight.com by phone. Quick and friendly, but unable to solve the problem. They had me contact LRI who were also very friendly and knowledgeable but were not able to solve the problem. I bought this newer Freedom because the older one would not turn off, I thought this might be solved by a newer version. I have almost too many flashlights and during the last handful of emergencies and or power outages this little light was the most used. Now I use the light daily and this battery mod would be very useful. Thanks for any assistance.

How does the switch act when you press it? does it *click* very lightly?

If it doesn't it might be an issue with the triangular button thats held on the circuit board with clear tape. make that it is spring like and snaps back into place once depressed. furthermore check that the 3 sides of this button are in -direct- contact with the 3 points on the circuit. It may look like its soldered in place, but its not. It depends on the tape to hold it in place.

What sometimes happens, especially, in old photon is that the tape looses adhesive and slides out of place.

I've had a few Freedom "die" like that. The LED worked the battery worked, everything except the circuit. Now that you mention it, I think those were from BatteryJunction too.

good luck.

Yes, I feel a slight click on both Freedoms and with both the battery combinations; one 2032 and two 2016s. Zebra retractable pens will not apply enough pressure to cycle the switch. Both feel about the same.

If I'm understanding correctly, the switches sound really stiff. Other than recommending to clean the contacts between the actual button (the triangular thing) and the circuit board, I really don't know what else you could try. If that doesn't work, maybe you can ask for a replacement. I think that LRI wont leave you hanging.

The Freedom is supposed to use 2x2016 if it has a white led. You can dim it with the microprocessor.

When I use one 2016 and make the connection the light stays on. Maybe constant on is a low battery indicator.

""If it doesn't it might be an issue with the triangular button thats held on the circuit board with clear tape. make that it is spring like and snaps back into place once depressed. furthermore check that the 3 sides of this button are in -direct- contact with the 3 points on the circuit. It may look like its soldered in place, but its not. It depends on the tape to hold it in place.
What sometimes happens, especially, in old photon is that the tape looses adhesive and slides out of place.""

Do you think this tape could be replaced with a careful solder job?
I have seen switches with the tape, but on a Photon Freedom?
Any chance of a pic?

To see the tape/switch combo you should take out the circuit. It should come out easily as the LED is not soldered into board. The triangle looks like its soldered on, but its not, the tape is -very- clear.

Im sure its possible but it requires a great amount of luck and skill. If you get almost ANY solder on top of the triangle switch it will freeze up and stop working completely. New tape IMO is best (read: quickest, simplest) solution, if that is your problem.

The new light is intact, the older light has a tape/switch that is starting to fail. Thank you for pointing this out, very helpful. In south Louisiana moisture is always a consideration.
Soldering this switch is beyond my skills, but it does look doable. It is not that small. It looks like it is physically configured to be soldered. The area looks clear to be heated for the solder. The flexibility of the switch may however deteriorate the solder connection. I wonder if there is another flexible material like a silicone that could/should be used. I know this light only cost $10 but along with its nifty attachment device it is a very useful tool. Prolonged use of colored lights leaves me appreciating dim white light.

Ramping is fine for the occasional use. With frequent use, off and on with dim is what I needed. I do understand that this is not the indented use, but before I used a clear tape filter, I searched and found cr2032 battery mod. It seemed to be common and a way to save a little on battery cost.

Thats probably why they left the switch unsoldered. First of all, its difficult, very delicate especially for a mass production type of deal. Second, with continued use, like you pointed out the connection will become intermittent. Third, tape is easier to fix once you know what is wrong. There appear to be no real benefits to soldering since the joints will wear anyway.

If your thinking about getting it soldered, try your local jewelry shop. They may be the only real experts in soldering REALLY small joints like that.

If your looking to save on battery cost beyond that try Lighthound, they sell cr2032 and cr2016s for about 30 cents a piece.

"easier to fix"
Packing tape is the strongest and most adhesive tape that I am aware of that is similar to the adhesive material used. Packing tape degrades in fairly short order. Fresh Goop SuperMend is a strong 2 part epoxy. Remove existing tape like material. Clean the switch area. Apply epoxy leaving a center 3mm free of adhesive;Fail. A mechanical switch needs a mechanical enclosure. Passenger jets are glued together, but that is a different level of adhesive.

Three parts to this light; chip, switch, and LED. Chip will not take a common battery mod, the switch is glued on, and now doubts about the 2010 LED.

29 cent 2032s, 180+mAh capacity?

You could call up Peak LED and ask them to make you a 1aaa light set up at super low power.

allout said:

This week I ordered a Photon Freedom and a 2032 from Battery Junction. I need a very low level light with on/off to attach to headgear or magnetically to a clip board. When I install the 2032 the light will not turn off. I felt this must be a common issue yet my searches have not helped. Also, on the inside of the light is a 2003. Is this the date of manufacture?

Click to expand...

Why wouldn't you just mail the light back to LRI? I have one that is flakey too, and I plan to drop it in an envelope with a note asking describing the problem. They should warranty it.

Called Peak NA and no hours posted. I will call back Monday. You are correct I should look elsewhere. I have several AAA lights that I have used in different configurations and with different filters. The form factor of the Freedom type lights is the most useful for the various low light needs. I could build a quality variable output LED with a moonlight and put on in each of the places needed. This is sorta like mounting a pocket knife to the bench.

Yes they will replace and said they will replace with one that's works with a 2032. I still don't know why it stays on, or if it will unexpectedly happen again. The switch would need to be inspected every so often and again could fail at any time due to heat and moisture. It would be useful to know how to fix in the field. I also had plans to add a Freedom to my ultralight backpacking gear, but going days out, is this light dependable?

Im not sure about the capacity, but the price seems right. I'll do an informal runtime test when I get a chance and let you know. btw, my freedom is a modded green 565nm led, so the power drain might be different than the white.

In terms of reliability, I've carried the original freedom everyday for about 7-8 months without any problems.

Since I've gotten 3 more; 2 of which I mistakenly threw out or lost before recognizing the tape thing. The last spare I have left was lost and found after I put an old pair of shorts through the washing machine. The NV Freedom was in one of the pockets and with new tape it works fine.

either way, if you solder the joints I don't think there really anything in the freedom to break.

The new Freedom looks the same and has the same light output as my much older Freedom.
I have read on other post the new Nichia GS have significantly more light output. Can anyone confirm? Is there anyway to tell the old LEDs from the new?
BJ support dodged the question, twice.

The package should say something like "to the max!", the LED is supposed to be about 2x brighter.

I bought both of the Freedoms after 2004. New, To The Max is written on the box dated 2004. The box for the older LED is gone. "New" is a relative term I suppose. Does any body have the same wording with a later date on the box? Both circuit boards are stamped with 2003. Does any one have this stamp on a light that is able to run the 2032 and function correctly?

Point the light at the wall from about a foot away. The earlier leds will have a round-ish hot spot. The GS hot spot is oblong and a little bit blobby. There is not a good way to distinguish the CS from the DS.

At 12" on to a white wall the hot spot is approx. 1.5"x 2" and not very defined. Surrounding the hot spot is a distinct 2" band of light that is yellow/gold in color. At 24'' the hot spot is more oval in that it almost looks like two hot spots combined. It is the same on both.

Does the Nichia GS have a longer run time with the same output (more efficient)? Or is it just more output. I may have asked this question incorrectly.