Fed up with the kroll

I've had it. The kroll is a complete piece of garbage. I shouldn't have to disassemble a switch twice a week just to get it to return to sub-par functionality. I don't think I've *ever* had one of these work as expected out-of-the-box. There has GOT to be something better out there!

I just love it when I click my BB400 on and I get full brightness, then when I release it blinks out and then pops back on at about 5%. Then I cycle it and it comes back at 100%. Cycle again, maybe you get 50%. Sometimes you get 0. Screw the luxeon lottery, I can play the kroll lottery all day for free.

My Krolls work just fine. Have you tried cleaning the metal contact pieces? You might not see the oxidation film, but it can drastically increase the circuit resistance nonetheless. The other clue is that you've taken it apart more than a few times. This implies that the small side contact spring might have been deformed or not reinstalled correctly. That is the only piece that makes intermittent contact in the entire switch. I would look there. The small spring is tiny and delicate, easily bent.

Wilkey

I have 5 Krolls and all are perfect. One tsp-123 caused the light to flicker, so I unscrewed the Kroll and there was a manmade fiber (garment or carpet) in there. Removed it with tweezers, and it is perfect.

Unfortunately, all of my Krolls are in Arc LS powerpacks, so I can't send you one.

I guess I am one who has good luck with Krolls.

The small spring is the problem, no doubt. Even new, it doesn't make full contact with either the plunger or the side of the battery tube. Cleaning it doesn't help. Stretching it to re-tension it (as Arc suggests) doesn't help. I've tried aligning it for maximum contact with the plunger, but it seems the action of the plunger moves the side spring around and it eventually gets back to an equilibrium position that is bad for conductivity.

Try some R5 power booster juice on the contacts.

I tested it on Brinkmann AAA tailcap switches. Stock from the factory they measured 0.4 to 0.8 ohms mostly. After R5 treatment, they all measure 0.0 ohms, and it's not a temporary thing, the effect lasts.

I ordered and applied a very small ammount of 759g conductive lube to the little springs in all my Krolls and haven't had a prob since.

The small point where the Kroll spring touches the flashlight barrel is one place where poor electrical contact can occur. Try cleaning the Kroll threads and contact spring with oil, and do the same for the threads on the barrel. Then apply a thin coating of grease and reassemble. This helped my Minimag w/ Kroll a lot, although it's still not perfect.

The Kroll on the Arc LS is much more reliable, and I think it's because the Arc threads are tighter and more precise, giving a better connection.

i agree, krolls are a poor solution /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

why, oh why can't we have something better!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif

What we need is a McTailswitch! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

One more tip:

Out of several Krolls, I had one that flickered badly. I noticed the side-spring was rotated such that only the spring end (just the sharp tip) was the contact-point for the plate. When the spring was rotated, so the plate mashed against a broad section of coil, it worked great. I check for this on all of them now.

I also use contact-cleaner since some of my lights have greasy threads.

I agree, though, these switches are cheap and not really commensurate with a high-end light. Part of the problem is the current involved. I heard that the L4 makes a "click" when turned on -- does it use a relay or something? Ultimately, I think electronic switching (like ARC LS4) is the way to go, if it can be made to have a mechanical feel.

I don't care much for them either. Sometimes cleaning with alcohol will help.

tylerdurden,

I agree they are /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsdown.gif . I have one BRAND NEW that throws fits on a constant basis. Sometimes you screw it onto the minimag and the spring starts turning. Sometime it decides (at night in the middle of the woods) not to come on or to flicker. Bad bad switch. No other choice though, so I must deal with it.

Sure there's a choice- toss the minimag and get a Garrity or Brinkmann 2AA aluminum light with a tailswitch, and drop in the BadBoy/MadMax. My Kroll's working great, but if it ever gives me crap, I'll just spend $8 for a new light.

I've had plenty of problems with Krolls too, but I've found that they work pretty good in a permanent installation - like a McLux or some other custom bodies I have.

Essentially, once I get one to work decent, I don't remove it and it continues to work fine. I realize that won't work for a Mini-mag, but I wanted to share this observation.

Is the brinkmann switch better?

[ QUOTE ]
tylerdurden said:
Is the brinkmann switch better?

[/ QUOTE ]

Way! But some people have had a lot more issues than I've had.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Initial problems with the Kroll was what drove me to the Brinkmann. The spring contacts were the most touchy I've ever handled in a switch, and required constant lubing. Now, aside from the McLux, I won't go back to a Kroll if I don't need to again...

Who makes the Kroll btw?

Kroll Industries?

The Brinkmann 2AA can also be used with the Mag 2AA, with a little bit of modding. This Pewter Mag uses a Brinkmann 2AA tailcap; very nice combo. Note, I added the rubber from the Brinkmann to the Mag also.



Easiest way to make it fit the Mag is to file the first two or three threads off the tailcap switch. I did this mod in a few minutes by filing off the threads with a small file. You need to test fit as you go, depending on how worn the threads are on the Mag will dictate how much to file on the cap. The threads are not the same, but will mesh and give two to three threaded turns before seizing.

On some Mags where the threads were pretty worn, simply threading the tailcap switch on/off with a little pressure was enough to get a good fit for reliable use. Just make sure the oring is seating for a water tight fit.

So if you're fed up with flaky switches, give this a try. It does work well.