Stupid Ra Clicky Tricks

So the RA Clicky is by far my favorite EDC light at this point. The only complaint I have is that the light wobbles when you try to tailstand it. By accident today I discovered that the small foam ring that they put on the top of a large pack of CD/DVD writable media is perfect (and free) for placing like a little 'support donut' under a Clicky to keep it standing upright.

I realize this is sort of a bit like a flashaholic "hind from Heloise" but I just thought I'd share....

andrewnewman said:

So the RA Clicky is by far my favorite EDC light at this point. The only complaint I have is that the light wobbles when you try to tailstand it. By accident today I discovered that the small foam ring that they put on the top of a large pack of CD/DVD writable media is perfect (and free) for placing like a little 'support donut' under a Clicky to keep it standing upright.

I realize this is sort of a bit like a flashaholic "hind from Heloise" but I just thought I'd share....

Click to expand...

Hmm... thanks for the hint. Its a nice trick, like the water bottle cap diffusers. :thumbsup:

There are many posts on CPF about fixing the tail standing problem. I was one of the vocal complainers about the tail standing problems until realizing a way to fix it. For me, it was to trim a bit off of the edge of the rubber button. For others, it was to get the air out of the button. Do a search (use Google) for more detail.

Yeah. I don't want to damage the rubber by trimming it and I found that while you can (with a bit of manipulation) get some of the air out of the tail, it still wobbles.

None of these represented "fixes" for me (at least without compromise). My dopey trick isn't a fix either but just a free trick that I imagined might have some utility.

andrewnewman said:

My dopey trick isn't a fix either but just a free trick that I imagined might have some utility.

Click to expand...

I am in no way trying to disparage the work-around you have come up with. I just wanted to share the solutions that others had come up with in case you were unfamiliar with them. Thank you for sharing your tip.

I've just determined to live with it as the 'air trick' is unsatisfactory and I don't care to attach or carry anything just to make the light capable of more reliably tail standing.

I talked to Henry a while back about having it looked at but I believe that there will be no perfect cure for this problem until there's a new rubber cap made that is flatter, more like the originals had.

I honestly have not had any problems tailstanding the light.

Even after changing the battery, the switch boot is completely inside the rim on the tailcap.

:shrug:

antikythera said:

I honestly have not had any problems tailstanding the light.

Even after changing the battery, the switch boot is completely inside the rim on the tailcap.

:shrug:

Click to expand...

I'm assuming you have an older Clicky with the flat button and not the newer raised button. Halfway between the two would be perfect but given the choice of the new raised button and the old flat one, I'd go for the flat one.

LOL @ the slightly ambiguous thread title.

Is it the Ra Clicky you think is stupid, or the tricks? Does the title mean:

1. Stupid Ra Clicky! Tricks...

~ or ~

2. Ra Clicky: Stupid tricks

I'm sure you mean #2, but I don't think your trick is stupid at all - it's a good idea.

My own solution with my Clicky is to use 2 bumpers made from SF filters, as in the pic below. You could use F03 (red) or F05 (blue), and just push out the plastic colored lens. The empty rubber piece fits the tailcap perfectly. Same on the bezel, or use a F04 diffuser there, as I do. Perfect for a nightstand - it doesn't roll about, and if it falls over it doesn't wake up Mrs. DM51LOL

DM51, the Ra twisty tailstands just perfectly. The one I just picked up is doing nightstand duty beautifully. I think you may need another light...:naughty:

LOL, actually I really like those stupid diffuser tricks, they work pretty snazzy. Maybe if I see one cheap on the MP I'll give it a try.

The air trick actually works really well. The real trick to it is to let the flashlight get hot first. I just leave mine in the sunlight for a few minutes. Once you get most of the air out, then it cools down and acts like a vacuum. Sucks it down very flat.

Brasso, thanks for the tip and I'm off to give it a try!

kaichu dento said:

Brasso, thanks for the tip and I'm off to give it a try!

Click to expand...

Ditto! Thanks!

1. Drive up to an 8000 ft peak or in an airplane. Unscrew the light and reassemble and when you return to sea level its flat as a pancake.

2. You can make "bumpers" as above out of the plastic caps off of disposable propane bottles. As shown on the middle light below.


3. I find it helpful just to put a new battery in and tighten down the head till it does not quite touch the o-ring and leave it sit like that for a couple hours before tightening it the rest of the way. 2 of my 3 Ra lights will tailstand using this trick this alone.

4. I use a Ziplock brand vacuum pump and associated special bags and place the light with the head tightened down till it just touches the o-ring and suck the air out, then quickly tighten the light down. Works great and cheaper than #1.

Dave, I can follow 1, 2 and 4, but 3 doesn't make sense to me.

Really I hope that Henry will eventually offer a button that doesn't protrude at all which would bring an end to the subject even being brought up.

kaichu dento said:

Dave, I can follow 1, 2 and 4, but 3 doesn't make sense to me.

Really I hope that Henry will eventually offer a button that doesn't protrude at all which would bring an end to the subject even being brought up.

Click to expand...

The ideal behind #3 is that screwing the head on traps air and compresses it as the head is screwed down, buldging the switch cover out. If you screw it down as far as possible but without engaging the o-ring and let it sit for awhile the compressed air will escape.

It will still compress more air when you do the final tightening down, but not as much as just installing the head and tightening down the full way all at once.

I think that if everyone who puchased a light that was supposed to tail stand and it does not were to return it to the dealer/manufacturer, and insist that it be addressed or a refund requested, then it would soon become apparent that we will no longer accept "poorly" designed lights.

DougW. Please if you do not own one already! Purchase a RA light and I am sure you would not make the comment that RA lights are in any way "poorly Designed". One of the best lights made as a matter of fact!

Henry has done and continues to do a fantastic job with the design of his lights.

If you do not own one please "treat" yourself. RA lights are a pleasure to use and a working tool to boot. :thumbsup:

The first one I had could perfectly tailstand after a few weeks. I don't know what happened, probably the rubber was thinner on the old compartments (the first one with the holes, which you couldn't open). Unfortunately, I had to replace it today with a newer one, as it missed more and more clicks.

The best solution I can offer on the newer lights, where you can unscrew the tailcap (and where the upper part only has the rubber boot installed, switch in the body) is pressing the rubber as far down as possible until the oring engages and seals the compartment. The hotter the light is at the moment, the better it is.

Mine currently tailstand all, but they wobble. The worst is the one with the switch installed into the tailcap. The trick doesn't work for that one unfortunately...

cave dave said:

The ideal behind #3 is that screwing the head on traps air and compresses it as the head is screwed down, bulging the switch cover out. If you screw it down as far as possible but without engaging the o-ring and let it sit for awhile the compressed air will escape.

It will still compress more air when you do the final tightening down, but not as much as just installing the head and tightening down the full way all at once.

Click to expand...

Your mention of doing this when changing batteries is what mostly threw me, as the tail cap doesn't get removed just for a battery change. The only way that air could get trapped before reaching the o-ring would be if there was enough lubrication on the threads to make an airtight seal and my threads are dry.

If this method is actually working for you then I'm envious but I suspect that the best one I've seen posted so far has to do with heating up the light and letting the natural cooling cause a vacuum to draw the cap down. Every time I put the cap back on I hold the button down all the way as I screw it down and I suppose it's a little better than naught...