BUILD LOG: GILI 2

sosemot728 · Jul 4, 2010

After repeatedly bashing my head against the wall with the GILI 1 (I really didn't want to have threads), I thought I might make faster progress on the GILI 2

Double XP-G R5
Ledil Regina optic
2x 18650 internal batteries
316 Stainless Steel Head/Tail
7075 Aluminium Body
Custom PCB driver and firmware (Independently controllable LED's)
Also I am considering the possibility of a internal 18650 charging circuit.
Approx Dimensions. 110 x 50 x 25 mm (Tiny considering whats in it!)
Approx Weight: 120 grams

Here are some very preliminary design's

The main problem I have with this design is the two 'huge' M3 stainless screws on the front... I have a few ideas on how to replace them, but I will have to test my theory.

Any takers? :shrug:

sosemot728 · Jul 4, 2010

RESERVED!

aurum · Jul 4, 2010

If you can offer a construction kit like you did with your other lights put me down for one if it's not to expensive

looks promising ...

sosemot728 · Jul 4, 2010

aurum said:
If you can offer a construction kit like you did with your other lights put me down for one if it's not to expensive

looks promising ...

It will be sold as a fully assembled light.

aurum · Jul 4, 2010

It will be sold as a fully assembled light.

Ah ok ....

btw an SST-50 / XP-G R5 light would be cool. The SST-50 single mode configured to 3.5A powered by one AW IMR 18650 and the XP-G R5 powered by one AW 2600mA 18650 with 4 Modes (1500mA/750mA/100mA/30mA)...

sosemot728 · Jul 4, 2010

aurum said:
Ah ok ....

btw an SST-50 / XP-G R5 light would be cool. The SST-50 single mode configured to 3.5A powered by one AW IMR 18650 and the XP-G R5 powered by one AW 2600mA 18650 with 4 Modes (1500mA/750mA/100mA/30mA)...

I'm not interested in building a 5 minute light. (Runtime and usability)

fyrstormer · Jul 4, 2010

I see no reason to replace the huge screws. Maybe make them Torx instead of Phillips, but the screws themselves are fine -- it gives it an industrial look.

I think Aurum might be onto something with a high-power emitter and a high-efficiency emitter. What would be extra-cool is if the user could fade from one emitter to the other as needed.

sosemot728 · Jul 4, 2010

fyrstormer said:
I see no reason to replace the huge screws. Maybe make them Torx instead of Phillips, but the screws themselves are fine -- it gives it an industrial look.

I think Aurum might be onto something with a high-power emitter and a high-efficiency emitter. What would be extra-cool is if the user could fade from one emitter to the other as needed.

I don't like the current trend of lights with ridiculously powerful emitters, which you are unable to hold after 5 minutes due to the heat, let alone the abysmal runtime

Also, I cant seem a find a source for a Torx M3-8mm, Countersunk, Stainless Machine Screw... :thinking: If you have one please let me know

fyrstormer · Jul 4, 2010

No idea, but they must exist somewhere. Hex is also an option, if Torx can't be found.

I understand you don't want to make a light that is only good for lighting a football field for five minutes, but it's still useful to be able to do so when you need to. Obviously most of the time the user would need much less light, but saying from the outset that you refuse to provide the capability to generate a lot of light will narrow your market dramatically, considering how many lights are on the market that do provide the capability to generate a lot of light.

With your two-emitter design, you have much more flexibility to offer a truly efficient emitter alongside a very bright one, whereas most lights that use very bright emitters have to sacrifice efficiency at the low end to do so. I think it would be a shame to waste that flexibility by putting the same emitter in both slots.

sosemot728 · Jul 5, 2010

fyrstormer said:
No idea, but they must exist somewhere. Hex is also an option, if Torx can't be found.

Example with Hex

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Or Black Annodize

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sosemot728 · Jul 7, 2010

experimenting with removing the front plate and replacing with orings.

Linger · Jul 9, 2010

if it's internal battery there is no reason to use 18650 cells (cells are metal encased for durability and portability that just cuts energy capacity for you).
Go with lipo packs, e.g. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...Product_Name=Turnigy_1600mAh_3S_20C_Lipo_Pack
On a mah / mah comparison with lico or imr 18650's, packs are cheaper, smaller, lighter, and have much higher performance (almost no voltage sag on high draw, quick recharge, built-in balancing plugs).
For your size, you may bennefit from parralelling 2 of the 2s packs (higher capacity usually is longer packs, for your shape using two packs (each 2s-3s) may be optimal). The cheaper 20C packs are near bottom of hobby line (that go up to 80C), but performance can exceed top 18650's.

sosemot728 · Jul 10, 2010

Linger said:
Go with lipo packs

I wanted user replaceable batteries, if I go with lipo's I have to deal with internal connectors, securing the cells and such, 18650's would be easier to manage.

sosemot728 · Jul 18, 2010

I have been trying to justify using a double or single driver based design. Double means that you can control each LED individually, but this comes at the cost of reduced efficiency, increased component expense and lack of design portability.

Also, I have been looking into something like what you suggested for batteries, something like two of these.

http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerli-ioncell37v3200mah605585-2c1184wh64arate.aspx

I am concerned that the cycle count is half that of a 18650, as is the shelf like (6 months) I would prefer to stick with a proven battery chemistry.

Mick · Jul 18, 2010

For Torx screws in the US try:

http://www.aaronstorxscrews.com/default.htm]

Very expensive in small quantities.

sosemot728 · Jul 18, 2010

Mick said:
For Torx screws in the US try:

http://www.aaronstorxscrews.com/default.htm]

Very expensive in small quantities.

I have looked at this supplier, at this stage I am confident that I can go with the glass supported by an o-ring instead of a screw and plate assembly

Yavox · Jul 18, 2010

How much this light will be?

Mick · Jul 18, 2010

You're welcome.

Linger · Jul 18, 2010

Could you use one driver for both sides, wire both emitters to the board. But on one side place a trimpot after the led-out, in series with the emitter, giving the option of turning that side from 0-100% (of what-ever output the driver is giving at the time).
Not as helpful as, say, a slow strobe for cycling on one side with a low flood light on the other so you can see the road, but at least more control then a simple multi-emitter light.

>>that battery space cell is way too expensive. But yes exactly that idea.
I get the feeling its too much of a departure for you at this time, and you want a proven option for the power pack.
Just put it down on your demo board, so the Gili3 gets a fair chance at having a small slick design with an option of a super fast re-charge via user-upgradable internal lipo packs.

1 vs 2 drivers - yeah that's the issue. I was wondering if I could set your 'double triple' up with one driver in the unit, and the 2nd driver in the battery pack. There is a lure of independent channels.

sosemot728 · Jul 18, 2010

Linger said:
Could you use one driver for both sides, wire both emitters to the board. But on one side place a trimpot after the led-out, in series with the emitter, giving the option of turning that side from 0-100% (of what-ever output the driver is giving at the time).
Not as helpful as, say, a slow strobe for cycling on one side with a low flood light on the other so you can see the road, but at least more control then a simple multi-emitter light.

>>that battery space cell is way too expensive. But yes exactly that idea.
I get the feeling its too much of a departure for you at this time, and you want a proven option for the power pack.
Just put it down on your demo board, so the Gili3 gets a fair chance at having a small slick design with an option of a super fast re-charge via user-upgradable internal lipo packs.

1 vs 2 drivers - yeah that's the issue. I was wondering if I could set your 'double triple' up with one driver in the unit, and the 2nd driver in the battery pack. There is a lure of independent channels.

There are significant space restriction inside this light, the driver will likely be a rectangular shape that will fit between the 18650 cells.

I am currently working to design the rear top and side face's so that they are easy to hold and have no sharp edges. This is proving to be harder than it sounds.

BUILD LOG: GILI 2

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