Malkoff M31

[mfrey]

I figured I'd start a thread on Gene's forthcoming low-voltage offering.

Does anyone know if it will run in regulation at full power off one AA?

[bigchelis]

Finally: a Malkoff M31...


I want 200 plus lumens off a single AA NiMH or 2 NiMH?

Dereelight and Solarforce and the old M30 do not do this

[MrGman]

he has fine tuned the boost circuit to be better optimized at the lower voltages of 2AA and 1 CR123 battery that is more realistically at 3V or less and not something up to 4.2V. So I am guessing that its more likely to be at full power with a non rechargeable lithium battern below 3V and in the 2.7V range, and will probably make very close to full power if not still holding full power off of 2 AA NiMH rechargeables in the 2.4 to 2.7V range, much better than the older M30 series that really needed 3.7V to kick in full power regulation. Testing on a DC power supply is the only way to know for sure. But I think that was the whole idea of changing around his driver circuitry.

[donn_]

I like the 5.5V top range of the M30. One of my favorite setups is an M30 in an old SF with 4x Elite 1500 2/3A cells. At 4.8V, it's the brightest M30 I've seen.

[bigchelis]

I like the 5.5V top range of the M30. One of my favorite setups is an M30 in an old SF with 4x Elite 1500 2/3A cells. At 4.8V, it's the brightest M30 I've seen.

Its cause you havent seen my M30 with super low vf. At 4.2V input it draws 1.8A off AW 17670

cheers

[donn_]

I've run about a dozen different M30s on a wide variety of cell combinations. Same with M60s and M61s. Nothing does better than the 1500 Elites. They get closer to maximum V-in and have amazing current capability.

Try them.

I don't bother with measurements. I have enough SF bodies and tails to do side-by-side testing.

In my world, what looks brighter is brighter.

[Bullzeyebill]

I've run about a dozen different M30s on a wide variety of cell combinations. Same with M60s and M61s. Nothing does better than the 1500 Elites. They get closer to maximum V-in and have amazing current capability.

Try them.

I don't bother with measurements. I have enough SF bodies and tails to do side-by-side testing.

In my world, what looks brighter is brighter.

Are you using the A14 with a 6P size body? I've got the conversion setup, and have always thought about using loose high capacity 2/3A cells with my M30.

Bill

[donn_]

Hi Bill,

I'm using 7Z and larger bodies.

[elumen8]

Great, I'll finally be able to get an M31 to fit in my SF G2-shorty with aluminum bezel that I'm building.

JB

[PoliceScannerMan]

Wow no R123?

Does this mean we'll see a MD2xAA?

[Bullzeyebill]

Wow no R123?

Does this mean we'll see a MD2xAA?

You could do an MD3 with 2AA. Would be a perfect fit, with something rolled up inside to reduce rattle. Don't forget the 2AA bodies coming up, not MD compatable, but will take the VME head.

Bill

[KDOG3]

Now if we can get a one cell body and have the high-low switch work in the VME head that would be fantastic.

[KDOG3]

Even better would be an M31L that would also work with the hi-lo switch in the one cell body....That way you could still have killer output PLUS longer runtime...

[zwerky]

Now if we can get a one cell body and have the high-low switch work in the VME head that would be fantastic.

+1 on this. i have an M30 in a vme head/twisty body setup -- love this light, but would also like to see it have a lower mode for longer run time.

[BigusLightus]

Hi Donn_

Are your flattops able to make good contact just from the pressure of the tail spring?

Thanks

[Bullzeyebill]

+1 on this. i have an M30 in a vme head/twisty body setup -- love this light, but would also like to see it have a lower mode for longer run time.

Use the M61L, or M61LL for longer runtime on an RCR123 with the VME head/short twisty body. It will run in regulatiion.

Bill

[donn_]

I run my VME head, with a Diamond Dragon M60, on an E2e body with 2xIMR16340s and an Aleph tail with an McE2S (60 ohm resistor).

[donn_]

Hi Donn_

Are your flattops able to make good contact just from the pressure of the tail spring?

Thanks

The 1500 Elites are button tops.

[BigusLightus]

3.3V max? Might be perfect for those 16340 LiFePO4 cells laying around and being under used. 3.2V nom. 3.5V hot.

Any speculation about performance from two NiMH's @ 2.4V nom. 2.8V hot.

Donn_,
Just ordered a bunch of 2/3A. The small size opens up several pastabilities. I'm guessing two will fit in a 6P and be approx. 6 mm short? Thanks for the ideas.

especially when I learn something new!

[Paul_in_Maryland]

I like the 5.5V top range of the M30. One of my favorite setups is an M30 in an old SF with 4x Elite 1500 2/3A cells. At 4.8V, it's the brightest M30 I've seen.

I own two M30WF modules. One is driven by two NiZn AA cells, the other by three NiZn AAs in a Fivemega 3xAA body. Eac packs a punch. In the 3xAA, the resulting flood is marginally brighter but essentially equalled by my 3xNiZn Dereelight XP-G + diffuser lens from Flashlightlens.com.

Before he settles on a voltage range, I hope Gene considers the growing popularity of nickel-zinc AA cells. It would be a pity if the M31 couldn't be driven at 4.8V to 5.1V under load.

[MrGman]

I own two M30WF modules. One is driven by two NiZn AA cells, the other by three NiZn AAs in a Fivemega 3xAA body. Eac packs a punch. In the 3xAA, the resulting flood is marginally brighter but essentially equalled by my 3xNiZn Dereelight XP-G + diffuser lens from Flashlightlens.com.

Before he settles on a voltage range, I hope Gene considers the growing popularity of nickel-zinc AA cells. It would be a pity if the M31 couldn't be driven at 4.8V to 5.1V under load.

I just can't understand why you guys want so much overlap in the different modules. The new M61 will run perfectly well at the 4.8 to 5.1V you state. The newer M31 will run on 3.3V max or less and hold better regulation in that 2AA 2.4 to 3V region every one was previously complaining about. Now that hes fine tuned both lights to work better in these 2 popular battery/voltage ranges you want the M31 to do what the M61 already does. ?????

The M31 will be the perfect light for the all important 2AA alkaline batteries that every one could find in any store as the last ditch its always available battery. Then come the guys who want it to run in full regulation with one, and then guys like you that want it to run right back up there in the range that the M61 already runs. You can have both modules and run them in a variety of ways, so why does the one have to do the job of both?

There is no optimum boost/buck regulator out there to give totally flat regulation from 1.1V up to 8.4V to make everyone happy. I think the new drivers and voltage ranges of these 2 modules will cover the most widely used and wanted range very well. Better than before.

[ginaz]

so the M61 is regulated at 3.6v?

[mfrey]

There is no optimum boost/buck regulator out there to give totally flat regulation from 1.1V up to 8.4V to make everyone happy.

Sorry for being dense but does this mean the M31 will run in regulation in the 1.2-1.5V range? I don't know if I've heard a definitive answer to my initial question, that being will it run in regulation off a single AA, be it alkaline, NiMH, etc.

[lightsandknives]

so the M61 is regulated at 3.6v?

Yep, doesn't drop out of regulation until 3.4 volts.

[MrGman]

Sorry for being dense but does this mean the M31 will run in regulation in the 1.2-1.5V range? I don't know if I've heard a definitive answer to my initial question, that being will it run in regulation off a single AA, be it alkaline, NiMH, etc.

Don't know the specific answer to this question yet, need to test one when available or have Gene answer it when he has the time.

[Gene43]

Here are some preliminary specs. These are subject to change.

Start up voltage is 0.9v. It will deliver approx 300ma to the emitter at this point. Output will ramp up as v increases to 1.8v. At this point full regulation and approx 800ma to emitter. At 3v input it will pull about 1 amp. At 2.4v input it will pull approx 1.5 amps. At 1.8v input it will pull well over 2 amps. Amp pull will decrease as input voltage decreases below 1.8v. I may make a low ouput version specifically for alkaline AA's or long runtime. I could increase the outputs but probably won't because switch currents get way out of control at low input voltages.

Thanks, Gene

[mfrey]

Thank you, Gene.

[Kestrel]

Here are some preliminary specs. These are subject to change.

1.8v x >2A = >3.6 W
2.4v x 1.5A = 3.6 W
3.0v x ~1A = ~3 W (if it's 1.2 A, W=3.6)

Very cool - I like it, thank you for the info. I will be using one of these w/ 2xAA in my car glovebox light (a 3-cell SF).

I've been looking forward to this one for a while, thank you Gene.

BTW we'll need BigC's input on this, but this should be the new P60 output champ with 2xAA NiMH.

[Bullzeyebill]

Here are some preliminary specs. These are subject to change.

Start up voltage is 0.9v. It will deliver approx 300ma to the emitter at this point. Output will ramp up as v increases to 1.8v. At this point full regulation and approx 800ma to emitter. At 3v input it will pull about 1 amp. At 2.4v input it will pull approx 1.5 amps. At 1.8v input it will pull well over 2 amps. Amp pull will decrease as input voltage decreases below 1.8v. I may make a low ouput version specifically for alkaline AA's or long runtime. I could increase the outputs but probably won't because switch currents get way out of control at low input voltages.

Thanks, Gene

Frisky little constant current circuit you've got there Gene. Yes, a lower output version would be nice and easy on NiMh AA's, and let the Alkaline's perform too. These are going to nice in your upcoming 2AA bodies from Jim, allowing longer runtime with twisty due to lower resistance, ie, no switch or springs to rob voltage.

Bill

[BigusLightus]

+1 Thank you, Gene.