How to set it up

So, instead of hijacking another thread, I figured I would start a new one specifically to answer my questions and possible get other ideas.

Ok, here goes:

What I have:

Streamlight TL-2
Surefire 6P body bored for 18650 (looking for bezel & tail cap to complete)
Surefire G2

Now, basically, I want to stick with those. BUT, I want to run rechargeables in them. What to do?

I read mdocod long thread about Lithium batteries & set ups. But I am trying to see if there is something else out there that wasn't included?

Now, I don't want to go to a higher output drop in, because I am using it indoors & don't want to blind people , but don't want to spend money on primaries that just last an hour each time.

Also, if I run an 18650 in the 6P & they run at 3.7, will the P60 seem yellow, b/c it is not being driven at 6V like it is when using primaries? What about using 1 RCR123 that runs at 3.7V and a dummy 123? What kind of outputs would be generated & run times?

What about possible P60 incandescent drop ins that run at lower lumens? Do those exist, making it possible for it to be driven by perhaps an 18650, or a RCR123 at 3.7V?

Open to all ideas, but would like to stick with the bodies I already have.

Any questions or clarification needed, ask away.

Thanks.

No you cannot run the p60 witha single li-ion well... and you cannot run it with 2. else POOF

With a 18650 that 6P cries for a high power LED module running on that battery

With the G2 and its palstic pody that traps heat you ahve 2 routes.
1. Low power LED dropin, actually Malkoff M30/31LL
2. A chinese 3.6V bulb and a 17670. or a low power version of the 9 series and 2 13640/RCR batts (note that the G2 has a plastic lens and that limits xenon output)
http://www.lumensfactory.com/d26_series_specification.htm

Hmm.....

I am looking to keep it as an incandescent and NOT an LED.

So, it sound like running a single rechargeable battery is out of the question on the Surefires. Correct? Or is it possible in some way?

Also, do drop ins exist that run lower, for the 6P's?

What about the Streamlight?

On the Streamlight, what if I put in there a TL-3 light bulb in the TL-2, and run it on RCR123's? I assume the TL-3 runs on 9V, since the flashlight itself is a 3 x 123. Well, if you run it on 2 x rcr123 @ 3.7V each, that = 7.4, would that work then? If so, will it still be a good light? Or will it run really yellow?

kosPap said:

No you cannot run the p60 witha single li-ion well... and you cannot run it with 2. else POOF

With a 18650 that 6P cries for a high power LED module running on that battery

With the G2 and its palstic pody that traps heat you ahve 2 routes.
1. Low power LED dropin, actually Malkoff M30/31LL
2. A chinese 3.6V bulb and a 17670. or a low power version of the 9 series and 2 13640/RCR batts (note that the G2 has a plastic lens and that limits xenon output)
http://www.lumensfactory.com/d26_series_specification.htm

Click to expand...

Thanks kosPap.

What kind of results then would you get running that 18650 that is at 3.7V on a 6P? Not looking for full brightness. Perfectly fine if its less. But will that affect the color of the beam/light?

kosPap said:

With the G2 and its palstic pody that traps heat you ahve 2 routes.
1. Low power LED dropin, actually Malkoff M30/31LL
2. A chinese 3.6V bulb and a 17670. or a low power version of the 9 series and 2 13640/RCR batts (note that the G2 has a plastic lens and that limits xenon output)
http://www.lumensfactory.com/d26_series_specification.htm

Click to expand...

another excellent opportunity for a shameless SF pic. :devil:



this is excactly why the G2 has a 6P bezel. there are no worries re: what drop in or LA is used. it's been set up this way for so long that i can't find the origional bezel.

prof student said:

Hmm.....

I am looking to keep it as an incandescent and NOT an LED.

So, it sound like running a single rechargeable battery is out of the question on the Surefires. Correct? Or is it possible in some way?

Also, do drop ins exist that run lower, for the 6P's?

Click to expand...

kosPap's 2nd suggestion is what i have used in both lights. LF's HO-4 driven by a single 17670 is one of the few (that i know of) set ups that meet your requirements. the lumin rating for the LA is 150 but that does'nt mean much really. it's probably closer to about 70 SF lumins. it looks brighter b/c it has a concentrated hotspot and the appearance of more throw.

when you say 'drop in' do you mean LED? the term 'lamp assembly' (LA), is used for incan and 'drop in' implies LED.

http://www.mediafire.com/?gnmjdyg5wyn

seek the "Xenon Flashlights - 3.7V Chinese Generic" measurements

About the streamlight.....if it is a 3xCR123, then it will work a bit BETTER with 2x17500.....out of all the recommended rechargeable recipes for incadescentds, I feel thsi is the best ever....

sappyg said:

kosPap's 2nd suggestion is what i have used in both lights. LF's HO-4 driven by a single 17670 is one of the few (that i know of) set ups that meet your requirements. the lumin rating for the LA is 150 but that does'nt mean much really. it's probably closer to about 70 SF lumins. it looks brighter b/c it has a concentrated hotspot and the appearance of more throw..

Click to expand...

Cool. I am NOT looking for brighter than a 6P. So, even though it rates its lumens as 150, its no where near close to that? I guess I could put some kind of diffusor on the 6P/G2 if I go that route then.

17670 = 2 x CR123 in an UNbored body, correct?
18650 = bored body

sappyg said:

when you say 'drop in' do you mean LED? the term 'lamp assembly' (LA), is used for incan and 'drop in' implies LED.

Click to expand...

Thank you. I am looking for a LA, not an LED/drop in.

kosPap said:

About the streamlight.....if it is a 3xCR123, then it will work a bit BETTER with 2x17500.....out of all the recommended rechargeable recipes for incadescentds, I feel thsi is the best ever....

Click to expand...

The Streamlight is a TL-2....2 x CR123's. I dunno if it can be bored at all. Neve seen a thread about boring any Streamlight bodies.

Now what is the difference between 17500 & the 17670 that sappyg had listed? I know about the 17 = circumference, 50 = length, 0 = round. But why 3 different battery size recomendations?

prof student said:

Cool. I am NOT looking for brighter than a 6P. So, even though it rates its lumens as 150, its no where near close to that? I guess I could put some kind of diffusor on the 6P/G2 if I go that route then.

17670 = 2 x CR123 in an UNbored body, correct?
18650 = bored body

Click to expand...

the lumin factory LA that i use definately has a more concentrated hot spot when compaired to the P60 LA. a defuser would help a lot for your needs

you are correct re: the battery sizes. i could be wrong but you will likely get extra run time with the 18650 cell. i do recommend that you try to focus on the use of as few battery types as you can. it will save money and simplify your life in the long run.

prof student said:

Now what is the difference between 17500 & the 17670 that sappyg had listed? I know about the 17 = circumference, 50 = length, 0 = round. But why 3 different battery size recomendations?

Click to expand...

the 17500 cell is = to 1 1/2 cr123 cells in length. an example is using 2 17500's in a G3 instead of 3 CR123's. you need spacers (or at least i do) to charge them in your charger. another example of focusing on as few different battery uses as possible.

prof student said:

On the Streamlight, what if I put in there a TL-3 light bulb in the TL-2, and run it on RCR123's? I assume the TL-3 runs on 9V, since the flashlight itself is a 3 x 123. Well, if you run it on 2 x rcr123 @ 3.7V each, that = 7.4, would that work then? If so, will it still be a good light? Or will it run really yellow?

Click to expand...

The TL-3 runs fine on 2x 3.7V RCR123s.

First of all... read and re-read all the safety precautions associated with Lithium-Ion + incan setups. The biggest CPF mistake people make with them is inter mix-ing depleted cells with fresh ones and discharging them too deeply. That will almost always lead to a vent/explosion incident if the cells are fully depleted, in a high-C application. Sticking with a single cell 18650 setup will help you avoid this scenario.

Your P60 lamp is not going to work with one 4.2V Lithium cell. You will need an incan LA thats specifically designed for single cell use. Lumens factory has two models of the HO-4 to choose from. I would start with that and an IMR-18650 cell. From what I have seen, LF does over-rate their drop in modules to some extent, so you should just disregard their published lumen specs.

You should also be aware that under-driving incan LAs is (generally) not good for them, and it shortens bulb life. You can under-drive an LED to reduce its output but you can't do that with an incan. I am not an expert on the technical side, so I hope others can elaborate on why this is so.

DX also has this one. It should draw about 2.25A, so it will need a good 18650 cell to get the most out of it. IMR-18650 would be my recommendation. I dont have any first hand experience with it, but I have been using this one in my SF-M2 in a 2x cell arrangement (shorter run time) and have been happy with it. I use it along side my A2-incan.

prof student said:

The Streamlight is a TL-2....2 x CR123's. I dunno if it can be bored at all. Neve seen a thread about boring any Streamlight bodies.

Now what is the difference between 17500 & the 17670 that sappyg had listed? I know about the 17 = circumference, 50 = length, 0 = round. But why 3 different battery size recomendations?

Click to expand...

The TL3 bulb running on two lithium ion batteries will about the same brightness as when it is running on three primary batteries. This would be much brighter than your TL2 and therefore not a great choice for your original question.