another noob ?

I just ordered a Solarforce L2r body but I have no idea what Im going to/should put in it. I would prefer to run it on lithium AAs as this will probably be going in the storm kit, i dont want to have to worry about charging since the power will most likely be out if i have to use it.

I was thinking of doing a 3 mode, but a single mode would probably suit my needs also. Something around 150 lumens with a decent run time on 2 AAs.

Im still new to the whole voltage thing but what i have come up with is that 1 AA is 1.5v, so 2 AAs would be 3v. so i need a drop in that can handle 3v. Is that right? sorry for the noob questions, im used to buying premade lights.


thanks

Buckles said:

I just ordered a Solarforce L2r body but I have no idea what Im going to/should put in it. I would prefer to run it on lithium AAs as this will probably be going in the storm kit, i dont want to have to worry about charging since the power will most likely be out if i have to use it.

I was thinking of doing a 3 mode, but a single mode would probably suit my needs also. Something around 150 lumens with a decent run time on 2 AAs.

Im still new to the whole voltage thing but what i have come up with is that 1 AA is 1.5v, so 2 AAs would be 3v. so i need a drop in that can handle 3v. Is that right? sorry for the noob questions, im used to buying premade lights.


thanks

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LED Dropins should state a voltage range. This will be a minimum where they drop out of regulation and a maximum that will probably damage the electronics. Exceeding this voltage slightly might make a superbright LED, or it might make an expensive paperweight of the dropin.

Usually you'll see range limits like .8v, 3v, 4.2v, 6v, 8.4v, and 18v. Multiples of 3 are meant to be used with primary CR123s, and multiples of 4.2 are for rechargeables. You'll want a dropin range that nicely brackets 3v. This will probably be a .8v to 4.2v dropin.

Usually clicking the flashlight off and on again will change modes - 3 modes is nice because you have options to save power. Nicer dropins will do things like "Only change modes if on/off/on happened quickly" or "Remember the setting I was on at last."



Note: Don't use alkalines in this light, they are disappointing in high power lights and they will eventually leak.

thanks for the help. I do not plan to use any alkalines in this light. In fact I dont use them in any of my lights.

What drop in would you recommend? So far i really only have experience with a surefire P60L and a Solarforce LC-1. I have no idea what is out there. I read through the P60 sized drop in thread, but to be honest I dont know any way of telling which one is better than another.

Buckles said:

thanks for the help. I do not plan to use any alkalines in this light. In fact I dont use them in any of my lights.

What drop in would you recommend? So far i really only have experience with a surefire P60L and a Solarforce LC-1. I have no idea what is out there. I read through the P60 sized drop in thread, but to be honest I dont know any way of telling which one is better than another.

Click to expand...

I think that Solarforce's main offering that'll work for you is the RC-1. I think you'd want to check with other companies. If you know what you're looking for, start reading here and match voltages:
P60 dropin thread or search .8v p60. You can get 'em made by some CPF folks for about $40 to $100. nailbender hasn't posted more about his "low power special" but you could ask.

thanks.

One more question. When a drop in states that it has an input voltage between .8-4.2v is there any specific voltage that will run the drop in at its optimal capacity.

Buckles said:

thanks.

One more question. When a drop in states that it has an input voltage between .8-4.2v is there any specific voltage that will run the drop in at its optimal capacity.

Click to expand...

Higher voltage may be brighter, depending on how tightly regulated the dropin is. Lower voltage batteries will have to provide more current to deliver the same power.