Car A/C dying

Quinn_Inuit

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Our car just turned 8, and its A/C is starting to die. We'd like to hold off buying a new one till winter, but that leaves us with the Virginia summer to live through.

Oh, and the driver-side window hasn't worked for about 4 years, except for a stretch of a year where it did work. *shrugs*

Now, the car is in fine shape otherwise (the power locks on the back doors and rear gate don't work, either, but that's not a big deal), but the lack of A/C in the terrible summer we've had so far is driving me crazy, especially because I can't even roll down the stupid window. My wife is of the opinion that it's not worth fixing because we're getting a new car anyway. I am of the opinion that we will get a fair amount of the money back in increased value on our old car, and the remainder will be worth it so we don't have to drive around in Virginia without A/C.

What do you all think? How important is A/C to resale value on a car? This is my first car (purchased new), so I'm not familiar with the car selling process.
 

adamjh3

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What's wrong with the A/C are the fans dying or is it just not getting cold? If it's not getting cold it's a quick and cheap fix <$30 and <15 minutes. All you'd have to do is charge the freon.
 

Quinn_Inuit

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What's wrong with the A/C are the fans dying or is it just not getting cold? If it's not getting cold it's a quick and cheap fix <$30 and <15 minutes. All you'd have to do is charge the freon.

Nah, we just charged the freon. It's actually blowing hot air.

I'd fix the window and a/c and keep the car. Beats payments.

Heh, fair enough. Window will be $500, though, and I'm not sure I want to put that into an 8 year old car's freaking window. I mean, A/C is one thing, but I can't see a window recouping much of that cost for us in the resale.
 
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kingofwylietx

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If it's blowing hot air, then it may just be your mixer door. There are actuated doors that control how the air is routed. You car probably has vacuum actuators. You could just have a leak. Another good possibility is the clutch on the compressor.

For your window, you can replace the window actuator (motor) yourself. Get one from a pick-your-part place or buy one online.

If you can do these things yourself, you won't spend much money. Or, maybe you can barter something with a local mechanic.
 

Quinn_Inuit

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If it's blowing hot air, then it may just be your mixer door. There are actuated doors that control how the air is routed. You car probably has vacuum actuators. You could just have a leak. Another good possibility is the clutch on the compressor.

That would make sense. Any recommendations on guides for those things? I have a 2002 CR-V. I'm not sure what a vacuum actuator for one of those doors would look like otherwise.

For your window, you can replace the window actuator (motor) yourself. Get one from a pick-your-part place or buy one online.

If you can do these things yourself, you won't spend much money. Or, maybe you can barter something with a local mechanic.

Not a bad idea. I just need to figure out how to get the darn door off. I think there are diagrams online.
 

MarNav1

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AutoZone.com has guides. Create an account. Another great place is automotiveforums.com. Lots of good help there. I go there alot.
 

mrartillery

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If it's blowing hot air, then it may just be your mixer door.

Possible, unless of course they system was overcharged which will cause the same condition as not having enough freon. More is not always better in this case. Is the compressor switching on when the A/C is turned on, should be audible in the sound of the clutch and engine slightly decreasing in rpm's? As for the window, are you sure it's not the switch itself? i always check these before I go tearing into a door and buy an expensive power window motor. Take the switch panel off and plug the connector into a switch you know is working and then go from there. Listen for sounds too, such as popping or binding, this can be something such as the window coming out of the track, symptoms of this will also be a loose or shifting window.
 
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ypsifly

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My '04 Silverado started doing the same thing about three years ago and I was told it would cost me something like $600 to get a control unit replaced. My first truck didn't have AC so I said screw it and have gone without ever since this one stopped working.
 

Quinn_Inuit

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AutoZone.com has guides. Create an account. Another great place is automotiveforums.com. Lots of good help there. I go there alot.

O.K., I'll check it out, thanks. Fixing the A/C might be beyond me, but maybe I can fix the window.

Possible, unless of course they system was overcharged which will cause the same condition as not having enough freon. More is not always better in this case. Is the compressor switching on when the A/C is turned on, should be audible in the sound of the clutch and engine slightly decreasing in rpm's?

Yes, I believe the compressor is switching on.

As for the window, are you sure it's not the switch itself? i always check these before I go tearing into a door and buy an expensive power window motor. Take the switch panel off and plug the connector into a switch you know is working and then go from there. Listen for sounds too, such as popping or binding, this can be something such as the window coming out of the track, symptoms of this will also be a loose or shifting window.

Nope, window's definitely not loose. It doesn't move at all.

I'm pretty sure the switch works. It makes a little hum when you press it to go down. I'll keep that in mind, though, in case fixing the motor doesn't work.

My '04 Silverado started doing the same thing about three years ago and I was told it would cost me something like $600 to get a control unit replaced. My first truck didn't have AC so I said screw it and have gone without ever since this one stopped working.

Tempting, especially since we're getting rid of this car soon, but the driver's seat is like a sauna without both A/C and a functioning window.
 

Lite_me

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Nope, window's definitely not loose. It doesn't move at all.

I'm pretty sure the switch works. It makes a little hum when you press it to go down. I'll keep that in mind, though, in case fixing the motor doesn't work.
Try opening the door and have someone push the switch down while you place your hands on either side of the glass and try to help the glass to go down. The motor may be in, like a... bad spot - and need some help to get it started again.
 

Patriot

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In order to determine whether or not it will be "worth it" to fix the AC or not, hinges on the diagnosis of the fault or cause. With A/C complaints it could literally be anything.

If it's been filled with refrigerant and it's not leaking out, that complicates things a bit. Leaks are easy to diagnose while electrical or "switching" faults are not as easy. The same goes for the vacuum or switching elements behind the dash. This can also keep cold air from exiting the "proper" vents but cold air will exit somewhere if the rest of the system is operating properly. It could be something as simple as an A/C compressor switch, which is usually fairly easy to remedy.

I spent 21 years in the automotive service industry so PM me if you need any recommendations/guidance regarding dealing with the repair facility. It might be a good idea to stop by a Checker, AutoZone, and borrow their HHT or hand held tester. Check for any fault codes, as depending on the manufacturer, there will normally be a fault code (diagnostic trouble code) stored for compressor switch and vacuum element issues.

Good luck man!
 

turbodog

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You can pop the hood and see if the compressor is engaging. If it is, the system should have some level of freon in it. Most modern systems have a low freon pressure switch that prevents compressor engagement if freon is low (to protect compressor).

I mean really...... don't look at the vehicle in resale terms. Say it cost 20k and resale is 4k. That's 16k over 8 years, or 2k a year. If you can spend 2k on an a/c and window repair (although.... if you fix the a/c you don't need the window as much) and drive it another year you've done fine; the car's still only costing 2k a year either in depreciation or repairs.

Me... I would fix both and drive it for many more years.
 

MarNav1

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Say it cost $1k to fix. I'm just throwing out a number. Should last ya another year or two anyhow. Say you make $30k a year at work. Pretty good return to me.
 

Wilmette

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A shop manual with schematics (vacuum and electrical system) makes troubleshooting much easier. That said, they are expensive and not worth it if you're bailing on the car soon. But maybe a buddy has one or your friendly local shop will let you browse?

If you bought the car used (I don't remember if you mentioned that above) anything goes on previous owner repairs. It may not be as it left the factory. If it was purchased new, it should match the shop manual exactly.
 

ANDREAS FERRARI

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I know a little about auto A/C systems so here goes.........

First off turn on your A/C.If you can hear the compressor kick in(the engine will increase in RPM to compensate for the added load) than you are laughing because this is the most expensive component.Both electric rad fans should start at this time.If the compressor doesn't start it is because it is damaged or there isn't enough pressure in the system for it to operate.There are obviously other possibilities as Patriot pointed out but this is a start.

Try this and report back.

As for your power window most systems operate by using an electric motor to drive a cable to move the window up and down.Sometimes the wire becomes frayed and than jams.The entire system is sold as one unit($200-$300).I had this happen to my Grand Am 2 months ago and picked up a complete unit for only $30 at the wrecking yard.I had never performed this repair before but with the help of the appropriate Chilton repair manual I fixed it in under a hour.These manuals cost less than $20 and pay for themselves after one repair.
 

Quinn_Inuit

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In order to determine whether or not it will be "worth it" to fix the AC or not, hinges on the diagnosis of the fault or cause. With A/C complaints it could literally be anything.

If it's been filled with refrigerant and it's not leaking out, that complicates things a bit. Leaks are easy to diagnose while electrical or "switching" faults are not as easy. The same goes for the vacuum or switching elements behind the dash. This can also keep cold air from exiting the "proper" vents but cold air will exit somewhere if the rest of the system is operating properly. It could be something as simple as an A/C compressor switch, which is usually fairly easy to remedy.

I spent 21 years in the automotive service industry so PM me if you need any recommendations/guidance regarding dealing with the repair facility. It might be a good idea to stop by a Checker, AutoZone, and borrow their HHT or hand held tester. Check for any fault codes, as depending on the manufacturer, there will normally be a fault code (diagnostic trouble code) stored for compressor switch and vacuum element issues.

Good luck man!

That makes sense. I'll try to run by one today and see what I can glean from the HHT.

You can pop the hood and see if the compressor is engaging. If it is, the system should have some level of freon in it. Most modern systems have a low freon pressure switch that prevents compressor engagement if freon is low (to protect compressor).

I mean really...... don't look at the vehicle in resale terms. Say it cost 20k and resale is 4k. That's 16k over 8 years, or 2k a year. If you can spend 2k on an a/c and window repair (although.... if you fix the a/c you don't need the window as much) and drive it another year you've done fine; the car's still only costing 2k a year either in depreciation or repairs.

Me... I would fix both and drive it for many more years.

I know, but I'd kind of like a new one, something with stability control. I think that would be worth an upgrade.

Try opening the door and have someone push the switch down while you place your hands on either side of the glass and try to help the glass to go down. The motor may be in, like a... bad spot - and need some help to get it started again.

Cool, I'll try that.

A shop manual with schematics (vacuum and electrical system) makes troubleshooting much easier. That said, they are expensive and not worth it if you're bailing on the car soon. But maybe a buddy has one or your friendly local shop will let you browse?

If you bought the car used (I don't remember if you mentioned that above) anything goes on previous owner repairs. It may not be as it left the factory. If it was purchased new, it should match the shop manual exactly.

I think I'll try the HHT first and go from there. I don't want to get a shop manual for something I'll need to have done professionally, anyway, if I can avoid it.

I know a little about auto A/C systems so here goes.........

First off turn on your A/C.If you can hear the compressor kick in(the engine will increase in RPM to compensate for the added load) than you are laughing because this is the most expensive component.Both electric rad fans should start at this time.If the compressor doesn't start it is because it is damaged or there isn't enough pressure in the system for it to operate.There are obviously other possibilities as Patriot pointed out but this is a start.

Try this and report back.

O.K., I'll give that a shot. That sounds like a good first step.

As for your power window most systems operate by using an electric motor to drive a cable to move the window up and down.Sometimes the wire becomes frayed and than jams.The entire system is sold as one unit($200-$300).I had this happen to my Grand Am 2 months ago and picked up a complete unit for only $30 at the wrecking yard.I had never performed this repair before but with the help of the appropriate Chilton repair manual I fixed it in under a hour.These manuals cost less than $20 and pay for themselves after one repair.

That would be a good solution. I'll see what I can rustle up around here.


Thanks, all!
 

Apollo Cree

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Be really careful messing with the power window. Stuck closed beats the heck out of stuck open. I had a buddy once whose power windows started getting flaky on a rainy day. He got it to close once, but continued to play with it. He got it to roll down part way, then was grabbing the glass trying to wiggle it back into shape.

All of a sudden, the whole window fell down inside the door and wouldn't come back up. In the rain.

On many compressors, you can actually see a part that turns when the clutch engages and doesn't turn when the clutch is not engaged. You can also find places in the freon lines where it gets cold when the compressor is running. This would give you a clue whether it's things like a damper door or something more basic.
 

Monocrom

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I know you're not going to like hearing this, but perhaps the most cost-effective option in the long run is to buy a newer vehicle now; instead of waiting.

I have a close family member who's A/C gave out. Refuses to fix it since the vehicle is almost 20 years old. And now is just absolutely struggling through the Summer. It's ridiculous. A 20 year-old car owned by a retiree is one thing. And keep in mind that this family member is having a very difficult time getting through the Summer. Hell, if I hadn't been recently fired without cause, I'd give them the money to fix it. I couldn't imagine driving on a daily basis to and from work without A/C.

As far as fixing the A/C in your current vehicle, get a quote from a mechanic, then check the car's Blue Book value. Then decide if it's worth investing the money. If you plan on selling it yourself, you can usually get a bit more money than if you traded the car in at a dealership.
 

Kestrel

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All of a sudden, the whole window fell down inside the door and wouldn't come back up. In the rain.
That reminds me of a friend who had his wiper motor go out in the rain during a long trip. He had to swipe a squegee from a gas station and use it on the windshield while reaching out of the drivers-side window as he drove...
 
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