questions about impending Ra purchase

iacchus

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I am about to buy a Ra clicky edc executive with a few custom upgrades (sapphire lens, black SS bezel, LED upgrade).

Yeah, I've been on this site a about a week and I am about to drop 250 or so on a flashlight. There must be crazy hypnotic subliminal embeds around here or something.

Anyway, my question is this. I am having a hard time deciding on the 170 lm option w/ the narrow beam, or the 140 lm option w/ the wider beam and guaranteed tint.

What are the real differences here. Is the narrow beam incredibly tight with no spill? Is the wider beam all flood?
And the G. tint? I'm not sure I understand this completely. If I do not upgrade to G.T., is it just luck of the draw and might I end up with a green beam?

I would really appreciate it if those of you who have more experience with Ra lights would chime in and help me out here. I have decided to buy quality (at a price), rather than chase satisfaction with a long series of cheaper lights. However, I would hate to make the wrong choice here and end up with something that is not what I thought it would be.

I will be using the light as my EDC and for general lighting tasks (walking the dog, looking under things, power outages, crawling in attics, etc etc)

Also, is there a better light at my $250 budget that I am unaware of? The Ra's look quite impressive, but I am new to the game and open to suggestions.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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Tekno_Cowboy

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I recommend going for the High-CRI option. While it's not as bright as most of the other options, it is very useful outdoors or any situation where accurate color rendition is a must.

Another thing that you should know is that the Narrow version uses an emitter that typically changes tints depending on level. While this is something common of most lighting sources, the GD emitters that Ra uses are quite a bit more noticeable. The beam shape/style is not all that much different from the other LEDs from the few narrow versions I've seen.

With the guaranteed tint, the light still winds up on the very cool end of the spectrum much of the time if the 1-2 dozen Ra lights I've swapped the LED out in are any indication.

If you want the highest output you can get just from changing the emitter, you'll need to have myself or another qualified modder change the emitter to an XP-G.

Better is a relative term. The Ra is a high-quality light that is great for many uses. Your best bet is to get this light and if you decide it's not for you, you can sell it. :thumbsup:
 

Jeff S.

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Dear iacchus,

For $250 dollars you can buy some great lights: lights that are bright, beautiful, and unique. But as far as durability, functionality, and customizability are concerned, HDS System cannot be beat. If you buy one, the moment you hold it you'll be drawn by the heft and solidness of the light. I take my 170T everywhere.

As far as 170 v 140GT, I think it simply depends on what you want. The "narrow beam" is not incredibly tight; it's just tighter relative to the Executive beam. One thing to take into consideration: it's easy to make a tighter beam floody by adding a diffuser, while it's difficult (impossible?) to make a floody beam tight (without modifications, of course). And as far as the LED lottery goes, I don't think it's going to be a problem. My 170 beam is very white, with a warmer (a touch yellow) corona. I also have a 60GT from HDS Systems, and it's nice too. My next light will probably be a high CRI from them. Personally, unless you really want a colorless beam, I'd opt for the 170 (brighter and more efficient at equal outputs). It's the light that Henry himself carries.

Good luck. :wave:
 

Axion

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I have a 140cgt and it is a fantastic light. I rally don't think there is anything better for the money. I'd say the wider beam profile is just about ideal for every day tasks and the gauranteed tint is about as good as you're gonna get from a cool white emitter. I also have aa high CRI twisty and that is a really nice tint, but the you give up someputput.

Biggest thing I'd say is skip the saphire lens. With saphire you give up efficiency and shatter resistance for scratch risistance. This is a poor trade off in my opinion especisally since the bezels on Ra lights do a good job of protecting the lenses for scratches.

Note: Saphire reflects more than mineral crystal leading to less of the total light making it out the front. Henry calibrates his lights for out the front lumens, so the saphire lense will cost you run time.
 

iacchus

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Run away... run far, far away. You'll end up buying eight of them.

I think my wife might be a good way of keeping me from doing that! :eek:oo:

With the guaranteed tint, the light still winds up on the very cool end of the spectrum much of the time if the 1-2 dozen Ra lights I've swapped the LED out in are any indication.

If you want the highest output you can get just from changing the emitter, you'll need to have myself or another qualified modder change the emitter to an XP-G.

Better is a relative term. The Ra is a high-quality light that is great for many uses. Your best bet is to get this light and if you decide it's not for you, you can sell it. :thumbsup:

Good point. I like the idea of being able to have someone change out the emitter in the future if I feel it necessary. Thanks!

One thing to take into consideration: it's easy to make a tighter beam floody by adding a diffuser, while it's difficult (impossible?) to make a floody beam tight (without modifications, of course). And as far as the LED lottery goes, I don't think it's going to be a problem. My 170 beam is very white, with a warmer (a touch yellow) corona. I also have a 60GT from HDS Systems, and it's nice too. My next light will probably be a high CRI from them. Personally, unless you really want a colorless beam, I'd opt for the 170 (brighter and more efficient at equal outputs). It's the light that Henry himself carries.

Good luck. :wave:

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that considering flood versus throw and a diffuser. Good to know that the 170 is good enough for Henry to carry.

Biggest thing I'd say is skip the saphire lens. With saphire you give up efficiency and shatter resistance for scratch risistance. This is a poor trade off in my opinion especisally since the bezels on Ra lights do a good job of protecting the lenses for scratches.

Note: Saphire reflects more than mineral crystal leading to less of the total light making it out the front. Henry calibrates his lights for out the front lumens, so the saphire lense will cost you run time.

Wow. Thats really good to know. Thanks a bunch. That'll save me a few bucks.





:thumbsup: Good stuff so far everybody. Thanks a bunch.
 

flashlight nut

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Check out the "Ra Clicky part 10 " thread. Your questions have been a hot topic the last couple of days. When your done, you can start reading Ra Clicky part 1, Ra Clicky part 2, Ra Cl.... well, you get the idea. Tons of information on these great lights. Be prepared to be glued to your computer screen for hours.
 

red02

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I'm in the same boat here. Any comparison beamshots to make the choice easier? How tight/wide are the beams compared to the more popular brands like Fenix and Quark?
 

hotlight

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I have heard that the surefire F04 diffuser works well on the Ra clicky. Any truth to this?

works very well.

I got sick of it(F04) within a couple days and just ordered a diffused lens.(flashlightlens.com)

my high CRI is comparable to a LF2XT beam after the diffused lens(close to it IMO). sacrificed some throw, well worth it.
but the F04 makes the HDS ugly, but versatile.

as far as the sapphire lens.... I don't think you'd need it, the (beautiful)bezel protects the lens pretty well. if you have the money, I'd get it to bling out your light.

EDIT:
if your not into the high CRI emitter...
I'd go with the 170 and the F04(If you don't mind keeping track of the F04, its not hard to keep track of-just saying... adds bulk tho)
 
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Bullzeyebill

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Check out the "Ra Clicky part 10 " thread. Your questions have been a hot topic the last couple of days. When your done, you can start reading Ra Clicky part 1, Ra Clicky part 2, Ra Cl.... well, you get the idea. Tons of information on these great lights. Be prepared to be glued to your computer screen for hours.

What he said. Do not base your decision on this one thread. Research, research, research. Took me several years to make up my mind to purchase a Ra. I did not make it my first purchase, or second, or third, or fourth, etc. I had dozens of lights before I settled on a Ra, and this gave me some good experience, and I read, read, read. That said, you don't need to take years to make up your mind, but do be studious about it.

Bill
 

Hobbs

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For what it is worth, I had a RA 140gt, HDS 170n and a Surefire LX2 at the same time. After using them for a week at home and in the mountains while on a short vacation, all I have left is the HDS170n. I am partially color blind, but the wife said the color on the 170n was nicer than the 140gt, go figure.
 

civic77

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Agreed with the above members about skipping the saphire lens and saving some money. I owned the 170 tactical and 140 wide beam (although not guaranteed tint) at the same time. I much preferred the tactical 170 and sold the 140 first, (eventually sold the 170 due to needing $ but plan on getting another soon:thumbsup:)

I remember the flood intensity being pretty similar between the two lights although the spill might have been bigger on the 140 wide beam, can't remember for sure. Although the two lights are similar in flood the 170 tactical blows the 140 wide beam away in throwing ability. Its brightness and reach are pretty impressive for a single cell light.

What I noticed about both the 140t and 170t that I owned, (which both use the golden dragon leds) is that the beam has a cooler spill and warmer hotspot. It sounds weird but doesn't bother me at all in actual use and isn't that noticeable unless white wall hunting or looking at the emitter/reflector at low low level.

I would definitely go with the 170 tactical, its a great light and one of the best all around lights you can buy (considering brightness, efficiency, toughness, size and the fact its programmable).You can always swap out the led if you need it brighter or are concerned about tint of led like Tekno Cowboy said. There are brighter more efficient leds (such as cree xp-g) out there than the golden dragon nowdays but this light is still plenty bright IMO.

Oh and :welcome:
 

The Sun

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Ra lights are the lights for me. i've owned A LOT of lights throughout my flashaholic career and my Clicky 170 never leaves my pocket, bedside.....or sight for that matter!

before it was a 140, before that was a Twisty 120, before that........anyway.....i've pretty much sold off, or packed up everything else. there are a few lights that i still love, but there's nothing out there that could, or would replace my Clicky.

i have a few Clicky's but this particular one i speak of has been riding in my pocket for at least the last year and a half and never once have i said......i really wish i had more flood/spill. likewise, never has the thought crossed my mind that i'd like to have more brightness on high. it's pretty much perfect for me.

My EDC Clicky has been through just about everything mother Earth could possible throw at it. Hurricanes, tropical storms, hail, rain, saltwater, not to mention what i've put it through....working on cars, moving, shop use making/modding knives, intense heat, sweat, oil, chemicals, etc., etc....you get the picture!

Also, Henry is a great guy!!! I've taken up a whole lot of Henry's time on the phone babbling on, and on about life, lights, knives, Ti, machining, design ideas...whatever (i'm a talker! ;)), and he's never rushed me off the phone. he's passionate about his lights and you can tell when you hold any of Henry's lights in your hand.

i own pretty much every model Henry has put out, past and present, but i my EDC is a Clicky 170 Exec. and probably always will be, because if this one ever gives up the ghost, i have another few waiting in the wings.

all-in-all, you can't go wrong with any of them, but my vote goes to the 170. :)
 

kaichu dento

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It's too bad that you couldn't have prefaced your question with a list of lights that you liked best and why, or more to the point, which lights offered the beam pattern that you prefer.

My favorite Ra to date was my high CRI with P4 emitter which offers much more brightness in the flood and a gentler transition between hotspot and flood.

If you're the type of user who wants to place the hotspot on something and have it lit up like daylight then the 170 may be for you, but if you also like to be able discern what you're seeing in the periphery without having to re-aim the light you may want to put some extra consideration to the floodier P4 light.

Now that I have a Ti Clicky 170 I can't wait to change the emitter to a neutral XP-G and get a bit closer to my ideal beam pattern.

An odd thing, but if you talk to Zebralight fans many of them will rave about how smooth, wide flood is flashlight heaven, then you get some of the same people into a Ra thread and punchy hotspot rules.

If you ever get the chance to compare the P4 and GD equipped Ra you'll see that the P4 delivers a much softer beam which is more evenly lit from side to side while the GD will be more weighted output-wise to the hotspot. Not surprising anyway, as that's exactly what we've always expected when comparing these two emitters.
 

iacchus

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What he said. Do not base your decision on this one thread. Research, research, research. Took me several years to make up my mind to purchase a Ra. I did not make it my first purchase, or second, or third, or fourth, etc. I had dozens of lights before I settled on a Ra, and this gave me some good experience, and I read, read, read. That said, you don't need to take years to make up your mind, but do be studious about it.

Bill

I have had a few lights. Generally cheaper Dx models. I built a few from parts I bought from there too.
I have an idea of what I'd like to see in a light, but not the skill to make it happen in my shop with a soldering iron.
That said, I do not plan to buy everything that strikes my fancy and pare down the collection to essentials at a later date (or worse, keep them all).
Many of my past hobbies worked this way, and I am familiar with the pitfalls.
I agree that I am sadly lacking in information about Ra/HDS. I am in no hurry to purchase. I carry a light already, so I am in a position to be patient and make as informed a decision as I deem necessary.
I've already spent a few hours reading up on the models, and will likely spend a few days more.
Thanks for your words of caution.


For what it is worth, ... all I have left is the HDS170n.

I much preferred the tactical 170 and sold the 140 first
I would definitely go with the 170 tactical, its a great light and one of the best all around lights you can buy (considering brightness, efficiency, toughness, size and the fact its programmable).

Ra lights are the lights for me. i've owned A LOT of lights throughout my flashaholic career and my Clicky 170 never leaves my pocket, bedside.....or sight for that matter!
...
i own pretty much every model Henry has put out, past and present, but i my EDC is a Clicky 170 Exec.
all-in-all, you can't go wrong with any of them, but my vote goes to the 170. :)

Thanks a ton guys. These posts help a lot.
Looks like the consensus is 170n over the 140wide. That is good news. I would rather the 170 as long as I am not sacrificing utility for throw. Your experience with both calms my concerns.

It's too bad that you couldn't have prefaced your question with a list of lights that you liked best and why, or more to the point, which lights offered the beam pattern that you prefer.

Yes, it is. All the lights I have had have been various Crees with very middle of the road reflectors. Generally Chinese models bought for under $50 with names ending in "fire".
The differences between their beam patterns were negligible. Surprisingly good reach (or so it seemed for someone whose previous flashlight was a maglight) and very useful spill.
Of course, these lights could be bottom of the barrel and I wouldn't know it. My only experience beyond them ia an ITP A3 EOS (my previous keychain light) and a Quark MiNi 123 (my current keychain light)
The MiNi will back up whichever light I buy for EDC.

My favorite Ra to date was my high CRI with P4 emitter which offers much more brightness in the flood and a gentler transition between hotspot and flood.

If you're the type of user who wants to place the hotspot on something and have it lit up like daylight then the 170 may be for you, but if you also like to be able discern what you're seeing in the periphery without having to re-aim the light you may want to put some extra consideration to the floodier P4 light.

I am actually giving thought to the High CRI model. I figure my keychain light is pretty bright (if not the toughest light I've owned), for general tasks I may like the CRI's beam. By all reports, it is gorgeous.
I am just worried that it would be limited enough in output that I wouldnt be satisfied with it, and end up buying two.

Honestly, I would rather buy the 170, love it, and buy the high CRI out of curiosity in a few months than buy the high CRI, not be satisfied, and buy the 170 because of buyer's remorse.
Is that crazy?



You folks have been terribly helpful. These boards are a treasure for me. Now if I can just avoid starting a high-end torch addiction ;).
 

the.Mtn.Man

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I will be using the light as my EDC and for general lighting tasks (walking the dog, looking under things, power outages, crawling in attics, etc etc)
A wider beam is better suited for those tasks because with a narrow beam, your eyes will adapt to the bright spot making it more difficult to see beyond it. While you can diffuse a narrow beam, if the above will comprise the majority of your usage, that means you'll be keeping a diffuser on the light most of the time which means you'll be sacrificing efficiency (you'll need to run the light at higher settings to compensate for light lost in the diffuser), and it'll just be one more thing to keep track of.
 
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