MAG D SSR-50 Build Log

Thanks for input from thread below.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/283307

Based on feedback there my goals have expanded to this build.

I will maintain this thread for seeking more CPF input and as a build log.

My intent for this build is creation of a very useful Mag LED that has useful levels and runtime.

Current Design Plan and Status
HOST - Mag 3D
POWER - 3xIMR26650
DRIVER - H6FLEX
EMMITTER - SSR-50W57S-R21-JG200 star
HEAT SINK - Custom Aluminum
REFLECTOR - ???????
SWITCH - MAG MOMENTARY MOD???
OTHER - Tail Cap & Spring Mod

Pics (pending)

First questions

I need help picking a reflector. This will be a single emmiter build with a standard Mag D head.

Any recommendations for SSR50?

Member Wquiles posted a great thread on how to convert a Mag switch
to momentary

A stock Mag reflector with the cam cut off will do the job
or if you read Ma_sha1 and Der Wichtel build threads on
using the Rebel reflector with a SST emitter.

Member Britelumens sells metal OP reflectors. Depending on the
size of your pedestal, the reflector opening can be enlarged to your
requirements

Why not use the SST-90? The max current from the hip6Flex is 6.7A and that would underdrive an SST-90 so the emitter should last quite a long time. I believe that, at the higher current rates, the SST-90 makes more light. For heat management you want the largest heatsink you can fit in there. A stock Mag reflector takes up about 1/2", or 12mm, less space compared to the longer Rebel reflector. That's 1/2" more thermal mass to absorb the heat so the emitter doesn't heat up quite as fast. A copper heatsink would be a better choice than aluminum, too, though it will be more expensive and heavier.

I'm actually working out the details in my head for exactly the same light but with an SSR-90. Mine will have a large slug of copper in place of the Mag switch assembly and a momentary switch bought from Radio Shack. I've got a few other projects to work on before attempting this one, though, so it will be a while before you see it.

SSR-50 VS 90

Given the cost of over all build 50 vs 90 is not that much of a diverence. What is the advatage of under driving a 90 vs full drive on 50? For daily use I will normally be under driving the 50.

As to heat sink, I have access to free alum drop at work. I was considering some sort of large ALUM heat sink that would be bored to use an offset MAG C switch. It will be interesting to keep comparing notes as your build continues.

if you are making your own heatsink i would get a rebel mag reflector. you can mount the LED lower into the tube and make use of the deeper reflector.

if you run an sst-90 around 6A it should run cooler and be more efficient than a fully driven 50.

irv_usc said:

if you are making your own heatsink i would get a rebel mag reflector. you can mount the LED lower into the tube and make use of the deeper reflector.

if you run an sst-90 around 6A it should run cooler and be more efficient than a fully driven 50.

Click to expand...

I will second that choice, a rebel led mag reflector will give you a very good beam. I am sure it will work well with either the 50 or 90.

And to save yourself some headache try one of DerWitchtels new heatsinks.

Well it seems like a concensus toward the rebel reflector.

This leads toward a design challenge for the heat sink. The reflector needs space on top and the h6flex driver will need space on the bottom.

I need to see how much will be left for the actual sink.

I have also been considering aluminum vs copper.

I plan on boring the heat sink side of mag tube to remove anodize and then I will cutom size the sink for a tight fit for best thermal and conductive connection.

It seems like I will definately be depending on the sinks ability to transfer heat to the mag tube.

I am also considering an aluminum spacer tube for 26650 batteries as addtional area for heat to transfer. I may have a hard time getting a thermal path to this tube?

I also want to look into the possiblity of other momentary switches as referenced by PPC in post #4.

Ideally I would like to connect the heat sink (copper or alum) to an aluminum switch housing and then to an aluminum battery tube.

I starting to think I should model this before I start cutting.