Got my 8" TigerLight yesterday

agent8698

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I ordered it on Saturday from Dan's website at tacticalwarehouse.com in Colorado. I received it in yesterday morning's mail: 2 days later! Now there's something for you to shoot for, Mr Botach, and Mr Goncz.

The light is 8" long and weighs 19.2 oz (with battery pack) according to my digital scale. The website says 21 oz.

I have never seen any of the competing lights, so I cannot compare. All I can compare it with is my SureFire 8AX. I would say it puts out at least twice as much light as my freshly charged 8AX. I shone both beams onto the wall and asked myself: if I had another 8AX and shone it on top of the first 8AX, would the result be as bright as the TigerLight? And the answer was: maybe. It's hard for me to judge, because light does strange things when you increase it. The TigerLight might be more than twice as powerful as the 8AX.

I'm happy with the brightness, this is what I was looking for. The beam quality does not have the Star Trek perfection of SureFire, but it is not ringy, either, nor does it have any dark spots at any distance. What it does have is a slight visible texture: if you shine the light against the wall, and then rotate the light, you will see a slight texture that rotates with the light. I wouldn't call it concentric rings, because there are no rings. It might be called "clouds": a gentle texture that is only noticeable if you look for it, and it gets even smoother as the distance increases. So this is a very acceptable compromise. It's a very good beam. I'll have to take some pictures at various distances when I can borrow my sister's camera.

I was not so happy with the charging cradle and the ergonomics of how to put the light into the cradle. There are two spring-loaded plastic "claws" on the cradle. You move the light past the spring-loaded resistance of those claws so they can snap shut and clutch the light and hold it in the charging position. You really have to push the light hard, with maybe 30 or 40 pounds of pressure. And when you clear the point of resistance, the light snaps hard into position, hard enough that you wonder how many times the bulb will take that shock. But then you still have to make adjustments to the final position of the light, so that the electrical contact is established and the red LED comes on. Despite the heavy spring-loaded claws, the contact is loose. I thought I had it, and then 2 minutes later I check it, and the LED was off. I had to go back and push the light deeper into the cradle, applying heavy pressure, to make the LED come back on. In my opinion, the ergonomics of that charger interface is problematic, and you have to work with it and find a way, and if it moves just slightly, which it easily does, the contact is lost. So: 30 to 40 pounds of pressure (maybe more) to snap the light into the cradle, a nasty bang when it does snap in (there's no way to soften it), then you still have to slide it around hoping to make the electrical connection, and once you've achieved it, it's still a physically weak, delicate, skin-of-your-teeth connection that can go out just by touching the light, or even all by itself. I don't think that my light is defective, I think this is a design weak point. The electrical contacts in the cradle are also spring-loaded, but the dimensions of the interface between light and cradle are such that the spring-loaded contacts barely have a chance to make any contact at all. If you move the light ever so slightly, even just letting it go after putting it in the cradle, the contact can be lost. I'm still experimenting with how to make it work best.

Very nice light, glad I bought it. I don't find the body too thick (1 5/8"), although I wouldn't want it any thicker. I'm quickly getting used to the location of the switch. It's a clickie, but you can also do momentary on with less pressure, very reliably.

Others have commented on the "cheap plastic lens". Well, so far, it doesn't look cheap or feel cheap, it seems to be just fine, but the question is, what happens 6 months down the road, how many scratches will be on the lens, and will that affect the light output? I don't know, obviously, Pyrex would be better, but it doesn't strike me as a problem.

Highly recommended. Get it for only $111.99 shipped (sale price for CPF members only, through 11-30-02) via this link: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=10;t=000162# 000000

Max
 

Sean

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That charging cradle doesn't inspire confidence.
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Nice review.
icon14.gif
 

Rothrandir

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that is a promising review, except for the cradle, i hope they get that worked out soon, also, (as with all flashlights) i would like to see a crystal sapphire lense
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why oh why can't someone with a streamlight ultrastinger purchase the tigerlight so we can once and for all find out how they compare?!?
 

LEDagent

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Originally posted by Rothrandir:

why oh why can't someone with a streamlight ultrastinger purchase the tigerlight so we can once and for all find out how they compare?!?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I KNOW!!!!!
 

dano

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I have a TL, and both versions of the US, but unfortunately, I'm lacking time and a place to light up for any pics...Maybe in a week or so...

--dan
 

BuddTX

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Dano,

Just briefly, describe the three light outputs.

Also, what is "both versions" of the US?
 
D

**DONOTDELETE**

Guest
I think he's referring to the different reflector styles (partially textured, all textured)
 

agent8698

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Update on the charging cradle / TigerLight interface after playing with it for two days (not that it needed to be charged): I can make it charge reliably now, I know how to wiggle it into proper charging position. It's still clearly the weakest design aspect of this light, but it does work. Also, the pressure needed to push the light downward into the cradle is only 18 pounds (I now measured it using weights), not 30 to 40 pounds like I said earlier.

The beam is awesome. It is clear to me now that it is more than twice as bright as my freshly charged 8AX (110 lumens), especially after reviewing Dano's beam comparison photos between the TigerLight and the SureFire M-4 w/MN60 (225Lu) LA: and he does say that the TigerLight is brighter: http://photos.yahoo.com/b90a , click on "beams". So it's fair to guess that the TigerLight puts out 250 lumens or more.

I love the whiteness of the beam: it is the whitest light (color temperature) that I have in the house, including all kinds of light bulbs. The brightest light bulb that I use in the house is a Sylvania halogen bulb: PAR 30, 75 watts, 120 volts, narrow spot, 9 degree beam spread, 1100 lumens, life 2500 hours. I just did a test: from a distance of 3 feet, I aimed both the Sylvania bulb and the TigerLight at the wall. The hot spot of the TigerLight was bigger and whiter. So where did the 1100 lumens of the Sylvania go? It must be to the surrounding light, because it does put out a lot more surrounding light than the TigerLight. Max
 

dano

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Just an idea, but when I stick my TL into the charger, I slide it in, instead of trying to force the "jaws" apart...

--dan
 

agent8698

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Originally posted by dano:
Just an idea, but when I stick my TL into the charger, I slide it in, instead of trying to force the "jaws" apart...

--dan
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I thought about trying that, but I didn't want to scratch my brand new light: The "jaws" have sharp edges (another ergonomic no-no), and those sharp edges cause a "sticking point" that has to be forcefully overcome, even when trying to slide the light in as you describe.

As you know, the manual says:
"Position the contacts on the flashlight directly above the contacts in the charger base and push the light in and snap into place. [...]"

But, I am open for suggestions, and what you said may work best after all, I'll try it. I would also like other opinions about this, in case I'm making too much of it. Max
 

Rothrandir

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what is the charger made out of. the tigerlight is ha3 so if it is plastic or anything of that sort, you really don't need to worry about it.

i would like to see a sturdier cradle, and a fast charger for this light.
 

agent8698

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The charger is made of black plastic. Good point, Rothrandir. I've never even seen anything that is hard anodized type III, with the exception of my TigerLight. I've heard how tough that finish is supposed to be. Maybe you're right. My first instinct is to protect it from scratches, just like I try to protect the lens from scratches, but that ha3 might be so tough that I don't even need to worry about it, we'll see.

I haven't yet used the light enough to be concerned that I might run out of battery power, I just automatically put it in the charger at night, so the 10-hour recharging time doesn't bother me. Max
 

TigerLight Pro

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Approximately 1/2 of 1 percent of Tigerlight Systems will have an actual mechanical problem that causes the charger to go on and off.

Three primary causes for this type of failure. User error, the cradle fingers are injected molded parts. on occaision they warp and do not hold the light adequately in place. Third, the gold plated contact on the side of the light is out of spec. and the contact is too recessed within the charger bushing and does not make adequate contact. In the case of the second two causes, TigerLight and or our dealer will fix that problem.

The lIght is designed to be pushed straight into the cradle at the smooth spot surrounding the switch and charger contacts. 90% of the time I can hit it first try. Sometimes I have to move it slightly to hit the spot.
 

brightnorm

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Oct 13, 2001
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Originally posted by TigerLight Pro:
....The lIght is designed to be pushed straight into the cradle at the smooth spot surrounding the switch and charger contacts. 90% of the time I can hit it first try. Sometimes I have to move it slightly to hit the spot.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I set the light on the charger, tail angled to the wall, push down almost vertically so that the upper clamp corners engage the light. The light goes firmly but smoothly in without a snap. Then a moderate downward push on the tail and the lights snaps perfectly into its charging contacts.

I did this (after a little practice) ten times out of ten. It works.

I believe the Tigerlight charger's "firmness" is one of its great assets, resulting in a securely anchored light.

Brightnorm
 

tkl

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Originally posted by dano:
Just an idea, but when I stick my TL into the charger, I slide it in, instead of trying to force the "jaws" apart...

--dan
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">i do this also. i took the back plate off and the spring they use is stiff. i'm going to auto zone, pep boys or the like and get a couple weaker spring to try and hopefully replace it with. this should help things out. or you could cut the spring down a bit as they're is extra length to begin with. take the back off your charger, it's only two screws, and see for yourself.

watch out for the spring though! mine went across the room when i pryed it off the post.
shocked.gif
 

Illuminated

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Received my (2) 8" today from Tactical Warehouse...only one word for these things...WOW!...WOW! (OK, I guess that was two words.)

In a different league than I've been dabbling in so far...totally!

Thanks Dan!

John
 

tkl

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wait till you show your friends. i always give em a little "tiger" when demonstrating. not the hotspot, some of the "spill over" light and they almost fall over.
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my dad, a couple minutes later, said "i'm still seeing a half moon". he he, sorry pops.
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