LED Light for an HK G36

FireGS

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Aug 14, 2010
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Hey there, everyone! This is my first post, and I'm glad I found a forum where people know what's going on. I'm ready to make my first informed-decision light purchase! :D

I copy and pasted this from the sticky.

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__x__I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)

____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
_x__Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
__x__I'm flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

__x__I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
____Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
__x__N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

__x__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

____I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__x__I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

____I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today's most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
____I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
__x__I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
__x__I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
__x__50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
__x__150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

_x___Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
__x__Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
_x___I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

__x__A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


Basically, I bought a few G2's and I (like a dope) got some of those Alpha G8 eBay drop-ins and feel like I got burned. (Okay, I KNOW I did :p)

Here's what its going to be going on, the (big) G36 in the middle:
HKsRange1web.jpg


It's going to be rail-attached on the side, so I mainly need something that's bright as hell, with as much throw as possible, and has a click on, click off tail cap. Under $200.

Any help you can give would be awesome :D

~FireGS
 

Cole07

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Joined
Aug 2, 2009
Messages
319
A Surefire 6P or G2 incandescent with a Malkoff M61. (I think you can use RCR123's, but I'm not sure I don't own one). Will you about 100 to 175 bucks I'm guessing.
 

wyager

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Feb 10, 2010
Messages
1,114

Who in god's name do you work for? Military? I think technically it's possible for a civillian to get those weapons... but that would take lots of A)money and B)time.

Also, surefire is generally accepted as the best for guns, simply because of the springs in both the front AND back of the light, which help to protect the electronics from being crushed by the batteries (it also helps keep the batteries safe too). Malkoff has some great surefire LED dropins and stuff.
 

Cole07

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Aug 2, 2009
Messages
319
Who in god's name do you work for? Military? I think technically it's possible for a civillian to get those weapons... but that would take lots of A)money and B)time.

Also, surefire is generally accepted as the best for guns, simply because of the springs in both the front AND back of the light, which help to protect the electronics from being crushed by the batteries (it also helps keep the batteries safe too). Malkoff has some great surefire LED dropins and stuff.
What do you mean its impossible for a civilian to get those? You could buy them, H&K is just a high end company. You are allowed to own fully automatic weapons if you want to jump through all the ignorant government's hoops now (although I'm unsure if those are even full auto, maybe be only semi). Nice collection of high end firearms! Keep up with the guns 'n lights!
 

entoptics

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Oct 1, 2009
Messages
386
Saweet collection. I'm not an HK fan myself, since I'm cheap. Also I'm a Glock fanboy with 20,000 rounds through a 2nd gen G17.

Anyway, I can't recommend much in terms of lights, but I do have this bit of "wisdom" to offer.

Avoid rechargeable cells in a weapon light if you intend to do live fire training with it.

High end flashlights are designed to withstand extensive recoil battering, but Li-ion cells are NOT. A few hundred rounds on a disposable battery are no big deal since you will be tossing it in the trash and putting a freshy in periodically. On the other hand, rechargeable (especially one with a protection PCB on board) might suffer some severe bashing when mounted to a gun for several months/years and recharge cycle. Violent recoil, even in a .223 will damage stuff.
 

entoptics

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Oct 1, 2009
Messages
386
Actually, I do have some light advice. It only concerns the "bright as hell, with as much throw as possible" comment.

EagleTac T20C2 MKII.

It has spring contacts on both ends of the battery for recoil, and you can bet you won't find very many lights that are brighter in the same form factor. Way to big for a weapon light in my opinion (swing weight is a big deal to me), but it will pump out some serious lumens for a long way and is smaller than most lights that are considered 100 yd throwers. It's probably pretty close to the size of the SureFire on your MP5. 1" tube, so it will fit a billion different picatinny weapon light mounts. I have one in a warm white smooth reflector, and I guarantee it will throw farther than your eyes can aim with iron sights.
 
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TMedina

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Dec 17, 2006
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What kind of mount are you planning on using?

You may want to give this a look - in a solid mount and it's the best of all worlds.

-Trevor
 

Ronin28

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Mar 9, 2010
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Here's my advice...for what it's worth. You have a beautiful...no...GORGEOUS G36. Not a cheap Carbine. It's high end and high quality, therefore I would use a high end, high quality light...which means Surefire. Let's face it, Surefire lights are purpose built. They are made to be banged, dropped, placed upon weapons, dragged through the mud and muck, and should (hopefully) keep on working. There's a reason why L.E. Agencies and Militaries around the world use them. They are made to endure a heck of a lot of stress.

My suggestion to you...check out Surefire's website and do extensive research on their weapon lights. That is ultimately your best bet. If it were me, I wouldn't even think of any other light company.

Oh man...an G36, MP5, UMP...a little picture of heaven! :drool:

All you need is a USP, P2000, and a HK45 in that pic! :hitit:
Anyways, good luck in your Tactical Light search!
 

jellydonut

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Jun 13, 2010
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Europe
As the others said, CR123s for a gun light, not rechargeables. Shelf life of 10 years and intermittent use will have two CR123s lasting quite a long while on a gun light anyway.

The Surefire G2 that you mentioned is a good choice and seems to be popular in some circles in its stock configuration, but for brighter drop-ins like Malkoff the plastic construction is not ideal.

The Surefire E-series seems to be very popular to put on rifles. It's what I would get if I even had a rifle.:( (let alone a G36..)

Here are some excellent deals where you get a combo of a Surefire light and the best picatinny rail mounts in the industry. There's 6P and E-series combos there that are below your estimated spending point! This would be my choice. The Surefire rifle/carbine weapon lights are way more expensive and all you get in return is a cable and a tape switch which personally I do not see a use for, it's just another failure point and snag point, the rear clicky/momentary is better.
 

wyager

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Feb 10, 2010
Messages
1,114
What do you mean its impossible for a civilian to get those? You could buy them, H&K is just a high end company. You are allowed to own fully automatic weapons if you want to jump through all the ignorant government's hoops now (although I'm unsure if those are even full auto, maybe be only semi). Nice collection of high end firearms! Keep up with the guns 'n lights!
I'm aware of this... The MP5 counts as an SBR or AOW and is definitely an NFA title 3 weapon. Looking at his picture, it seems to be semi-auto only, but it's still definitely too short to not be an SBR. Not to mention the fact they are well over 10K (I don't know the exact price) to a private buyer, unless it's a knock-off. Now, his G36 does not look like a modded SL8, and that would imply that it too is a fully automatic weapon (also, there appears to be the full-auto indicator next to the fire selector). However, after doing some more research, it appears a real G36 is non-transferrable and therefore not able to be purchased by a civilian. So I would guess OP is military.
 

red02

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Apr 11, 2010
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Thats a great kit!

Only wish I didn't live in a communist state...

In terms of companies Jetbeam and Surefire jump to mind. Dereelight makes some excellent throwers that have gone through a couple of revisions which IMO is good since your not buying version 0.99 of something.

Another piece of advice; don't get anything that changes modes using the tailcap, if your getting a multi-level. The recoil has been known to switch modes on lights. Jetbeams are all (I think) ring-bezel selector switched. Some Fenix lights are like that also.

Get something with springs at both contacts as those tend to protect both the light and batteries from the repeated jolts from recoil. These types of lights also tend to have less chance of breaking contact as you shoot. P60 based lights like the G2* have this inherent protection built in. I know not all Surefires are like this, but I would get one that has the spring on both ends.

Look at:
Jetbeam RRT-1
Dereelight DBS
-both will do about 200m+ with the Jetbeam throwing longer, but the DBS takes the newest SST-50 LED which will probably make up the difference up close and far away.
Surefire's G-series
P-series
etc
 
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ARA

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Jun 24, 2009
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:twothumbs Simply mind blowing collection there mate.

I'd trust nothing less than a Surefire with a Malkoff on the G36, why compromise when you have such great firearms.

Also the Larue Tactical inline mount would work out just great IMHO

cheers
 

FireGS

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Aug 14, 2010
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Actually, what about the Anto drop ins? The output is said to be at least 100 lumens brighter than the Malkoff's. Any reason not to go with these?

~Fire
 

Xacto

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[...] cable and a tape switch [...]personally I do not see a use for, it's just another failure point and snag point, the rear clicky/momentary is better.


Out of curiosity - how do your lights in that case? I assume they are attached to the side of the long arm, so do you switch the grip on the gun to operate the light?

Thanks.

Cheers
Thorsten
 

victory

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Mar 11, 2006
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Out of curiosity - how do your lights in that case? I assume they are attached to the side of the long arm, so do you switch the grip on the gun to operate the light?

Thanks.

Cheers
Thorsten

You activate it with the thumb of your support hand.

Anyway, for people asking, unless that's a very good replica in the photo, it's the real deal. You can see the full auto markings on the selector switch. That means that, in the US at least, FireGS is in law enforcement or is a class 3 dealer with a law-enforcement letter that has that as a dealer sample...that or he works for HK.

Anyway, serious people need serious lights. I would personally go surefire and if i were going to do something like a 6P with a drop in i would only really consider Malkoff due to his overall superior build quality. Surefire's lockout tailcaps are by far the most reliable design. I personally use a 9p with one of Malkoff's drop-ins for my AR and the 200-ish lumens is as bright as i would go if that gun will ever see indoor use. Anything brighter and you'll get whiteout. That all being said, just the standard G2L is plenty bright just to throw on there and be done with it. You can then go and spend your remaining budget on ammo.

Oh, and don't use rechargeable batteries for the above posted reasons. The recoil impulse of the 5.56 is gonna take a while to batter the terminals, but it will happen. If you want to use rechargables in training, I guess you can, but swap in fresh CR123's before you go break in any doors.

Anyway, to the point, if i were you i'd get a malkoff drop in for the G2 you already have, and not bother with rechargables.
 
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wyager

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Anyway, for people asking, unless that's a very good replica in the photo, it's the real deal. You can see the full auto markings on the selector switch. That means that, in the US at least, FireGS is in law enforcement or is a class 3 dealer with a law-enforcement letter that has that as a dealer sample...that or he works for HK.
Exactly. The only guy I know with a G36 and other modern machine guns sells guns to the police. Normal people cannot get recently produced machine guns, even if you fork over the $200 to the BATF.
 

psdiver102

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That Mp-5 is a pistol, so, no need for tax stamps. The G36 looks to have an auto sear. The rifle was built after 1969 so only dealers and gov can have them.
 

victory

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That Mp-5 is a pistol, so, no need for tax stamps. The G36 looks to have an auto sear. The rifle was built after 1969 so only dealers and gov can have them.

Also doesn't hurt that the MP5 pictured is semi auto.

New production fully-automatic weapons were banned from private ownership under GOPA in 1986, not 1969
 

wyager

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That Mp-5 is a pistol, so, no need for tax stamps. The G36 looks to have an auto sear. The rifle was built after 1969 so only dealers and gov can have them.
I'm 99.99% sure that the MP5 counts as an SBR for a variety of reasons, NOT a pistol.
 
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