Maglite questions, is this possible...

Doglyte

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if i wanted to separate the switch and head, from the battery magazine, would this be possible, or would there be too many barriers to overcome wiring the mag to the head?

if it can be done neatly, then i want to find a drop in with a good bright variable WARM colored LED, so its easier on the eyes in outdoor situations (i will be shining lots of trees, and white lights make shadows and edges run together).

the only modes i need is a setting for a long lasting light, or super bright if needed.... but will mostly be used on 30-50%

if the head/mag issue can be done, then i'll start looking for the rest, but til then, what are you guys opinion on the matter?

thx
 

Doglyte

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by the way, i have enough extra maglites, that i can steal the caps and then thread both seams where the cut would be made behind the switch, so i'd just use the caps to terminate the mag, and the head ends.
 

jason 77

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Wait are you just talking about like cutting the maglite in half? I don't get what this would accomplish? Or are you just wanting to be able to fit a larger battery pack to the light for longer run times?

I would do a search on this forum for thread that show how a maglite is taken appart.. pictures speak a thousand words.
 

alpg88

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anything is possible, what are you trying to accomplish by cutting off battery tube??
 

Doglyte

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well making a head separate from the mag fits the style of light that i use to hunt with. the battery mag could maybe possibly be wired in with another one if possible for longer duration, and worn on a belt, that sort of resembles a weight lifters belt, but not as bulky. coon lights already do this, and its way more comfortable than box batt compartments. the tubes could be made water resistent, and worn on the side or small of the back.


people wear the lights in different ways, but instead of on a bump cap, i would just drape the head over one shoulder with the wire running underneath a jacket and up/out the collar, where i can reach it and shine with it.

plus this setup would have the capability to outlast and outshine any current incan coon light that i know of, on the right setting. capping the tube and head could be done, its just the wiring that i have no idea about... if it all sounds possible, then i'd like to start getting ideas of compatible parts.
 

alpg88

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what you looking for has been build many times, just look in dive lights section, there are more than few mag based dive lights with separate battery. in your case you don't need to worry about waterproofing.
 

Doglyte

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ah ok cool, but i'd like to water proof it as well, most coon lights are to some extent, water is sometimes a common barrier when your dog is across some water and wont leave the tree, only one way to get across, and it involves nothing but your skivvies and a light...LOL!
 

alpg88

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ah ok cool, but i'd like to water proof it as well, most coon lights are to some extent, water is sometimes a common barrier when your dog is across some water and wont leave the tree, only one way to get across, and it involves nothing but your skivvies and a light...LOL!

yea, normally mag is waterproof enough for most on land tasks, it is when you dive with it them waterproofing gets a bit different meaning.

the weakest part of stock mag water resistance wise is switch cover.
 

irv_usc

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If you were going to go through the trouble of making a 'remote head' I would try to figure out something in terms of an external switch. as alpg88 mentioned the stock mag switch is not water proof. the switch cover simply sits in a groove on the tube.
 

Doglyte

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yes thanks guys, all good ideas regarding the switch.... and your right, i didnt think about water pressure ect, when i was referring to "waterproofing".

im now looking for a good diver mag mod to get me going... the wiring assembly from the head to the batt mag is what im focusing on. sounds like they are building exactly what i need, with just a few altercations to make it usable above water and wearable.
 

alpg88

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there are few good driver\leds combo that you can use
from experience i can speak of 2 combos
3xp7 leds, great flood, you will light up big area, throw is not great, but still good, member der witchel sells entire kit.
second combo is 1p7 with either stock mag reflector(with cut off cam) or deep reflector (mine is from member five mega), throw is greater with single p7 and large reflector (large compared to 3xp7 kit reflectors)
FM deep led reflectors are now hard to find, but new rebel led maglite led have deeper reflector than incandescent mag reflectors we know and used for decades. it will give you a greater throw, deep one that is. but unlike triple p7 kit you wont get huge amount of light and flood.

there are also new leds on the market like sst50 and sst90, those are brighter, and a lot brighter than p7, der witchel also sells kits for those 2 leds.
 

350xfire

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If I understand correctly you want a canister style light. Look in the dive light section, that's what we typically do. We use a large canister to put batteries in and use the Mag head to house the light.
 

350xfire

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ah ok cool, but i'd like to water proof it as well, most coon lights are to some extent, water is sometimes a common barrier when your dog is across some water and wont leave the tree, only one way to get across, and it involves nothing but your skivvies and a light...LOL!

You could water proof the switch by using some rubber bicycle inner tube with hose clamps or something like that. It won't be 300' waterproof but enough to be OK.
 

Doglyte

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@alpg88

oh thank you, throw is what i need, actually the more flood you have looking up into a tree, especially with leaves ON, it tends to reflect back to you in such a way that makes you blind to what is beyond the foreground, which is where i really want to see. i might look at those higher throw LED's. but foremost, the main concern is battery life, it doesnt have to keep my hands warm, but it needs to be able to run maybe 15min at a time possibly, probably not on high, but at least 60% or so. it would be great if these LED's could run for hours and hours on lower lettings, and still provide very bright (in comparison to current incan coon lights) light. current coon lights can go 10 hours on low, and maybe 2-3 hrs on high, on a 21v belt light, not sure of the output, but its so bright that a racoon will not look at you, so it kinda defeats the purpose. a warmer LED will not make it so black and white, and easier to distinguish between tree/shadow/game.

i might start at der wichel and peep out the newer LED's after i figure out the wiring from the head to the batt mags. that is all good info, thank you so much. of these newer LED's, do any of them come in a warmer color, not sure how to term it. like the MCE warm led model.

@350xfire

yes i am in the middle of browsing around the dive light section, learnin the new terms for what im needing... except instead of a large canister, i want to use the rest of the maglite, of say, a 4D mag, or maybe 2x 4D maglite bodies to house the batteries. i can get enough bodies to cut, and cap two identical battery magazines from those two models, if its even worth the extra mag.
 

Doglyte

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You could water proof the switch by using some rubber bicycle inner tube with hose clamps or something like that. It won't be 300' waterproof but enough to be OK.


yes that sounds easy enough, and im sure it would be tight enough for the few times i'd need it.
 

350xfire

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@350xfire

yes i am in the middle of browsing around the dive light section, learnin the new terms for what im needing... except instead of a large canister, i want to use the rest of the maglite, of say, a 4D mag, or maybe 2x 4D maglite bodies to house the batteries. i can get enough bodies to cut, and cap two identical battery magazines from those two models, if its even worth the extra mag.[/QUOTE]

Sounds cool. Get two cable glands, use the existing mag switch and thread the back of the barrel to allow threading on the tail cap. Then use the other section of the barrel with 2 tailcaps. You could even install a toggle switch with boot onto the battery pack and get rid of the original switch and use a rubber boot on the toggle... Let us know what you end up doing.
 

irv_usc

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yes i am in the middle of browsing around the dive light section, learnin the new terms for what im needing... except instead of a large canister, i want to use the rest of the maglite, of say, a 4D mag, or maybe 2x 4D maglite bodies to house the batteries. i can get enough bodies to cut, and cap two identical battery magazines from those two models, if its even worth the extra mag.

If you don't already have the bodies you can start with a larger mag, like 6D, so you have more tube to work with. maybe get a giant heatsink made, like in this thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/286477

do you prefer to use alkalines, NIMH, or are you open to using Lithium batteries?
 

alpg88

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@alpg88

oh thank you, throw is what i need, actually the more flood you have looking up into a tree, especially with leaves ON, it tends to reflect back to you in such a way that makes you blind to what is beyond the foreground, which is where i really want to see. i might look at those higher throw LED's. but foremost, the main concern is battery life, it doesnt have to keep my hands warm, but it needs to be able to run maybe 15min at a time possibly, probably not on high, but at least 60% or so. it would be great if these LED's could run for hours and hours on lower lettings, and still provide very bright (in comparison to current incan coon lights) light. current coon lights can go 10 hours on low, and maybe 2-3 hrs on high, on a 21v belt light, not sure of the output, but its so bright that a racoon will not look at you, so it kinda defeats the purpose. a warmer LED will not make it so black and white, and easier to distinguish between tree/shadow/game.

i might start at der wichel and peep out the newer LED's after i figure out the wiring from the head to the batt mags. that is all good info, thank you so much. of these newer LED's, do any of them come in a warmer color, not sure how to term it. like the MCE warm led model.

.

sst come in warm tint as well, so do almost all leds, warmer ones loose in output a bit, and harder to find. for your purposes i think sst50\90 will fit the bill imo. even p7 will, it is also bright, also if you get new rebel led mag 2or3 D and use that for your coon light build, you'll get good throw.
p7 would be easiest to find multimode driver for, der witchel sells them , great drivers, also dx\kd sell them too, as do pbly few more places,
sst are harder to find multimode drivers, DW sells 1 mode drivers for those leds.

i looked at coon lights on the net, most are 4-6v headlamps, with sla batteries. they look exactly like mining lights. i'm pretty sure they not as bright as p7, not to mention sst.
imo you should go with p7 build, easy cheap, and parts are widely available.
as for batteries, li ion have largest capacity\lowest weight for the size, i'd go with it, thou there are plenty of cheap ***fire cells that are of a poor quality, you wanna stay away from those, they sometimes blow up, if you have the pack on the belt, you will get hurt if they blow up (thou some trust fire gray and black protected cells have good reviews) also you wanna get protected cells, or if you building a pack, get good quality unprotected, and add pcb circuit, battery space sells pcb's some even have balancing option, they also sell cells, and chargers.
nimh are also good alternative, they are cheaper, safer, eneloops AA cells are great cells, they lack capacity of li ions, or even some other nimhAA cells, but they have very slow self discharge (i doubt it is important to you, since you pbly will charge it before each hunt anyway) and consistent high quality from cell to cell, also sanyo 2700 are good,
read up reviews here on batteries.
as for battery, i doubt canister or a tube will be ideal for your purposes, few flat boxes on the belt would be better than 1 tube, i build few battery belts before, i used housings from mcmaster carr.com they sell tons of boxes\enclosures, any size, any purpose.
 
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Doglyte

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If you don't already have the bodies you can start with a larger mag, like 6D, so you have more tube to work with. maybe get a giant heatsink made, like in this thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/286477

do you prefer to use alkalines, NIMH, or are you open to using Lithium batteries?


i have no preference, but i think most of the batts in coon belt lights are NIMH. i'd just want whats easiest to charge and lasts the longest, but if there are trade offs, i guess i'd choose battery life.
 

Doglyte

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sst come in warm tint as well, so do almost all leds, warmer ones loose in output a bit, and harder to find. for your purposes i think sst50\90 will fit the bill imo. even p7 will, it is also bright, also if you get new rebel led mag 2or3 D and use that for your coon light build, you'll get good throw.
p7 would be easiest to find multimode driver for, der witchel sells them , great drivers, also dx\kd sell them too, as do pbly few more places,
sst are harder to find multimode drivers, DW sells 1 mode drivers for those leds.

i looked at coon lights on the net, most are 4-6v headlamps, with sla batteries. they look exactly like mining lights. i'm pretty sure they not as bright as p7, not to mention sst.
imo you should go with p7 build, easy cheap, and parts are widely available.
as for batteries, li ion have largest capacity\lowest weight for the size, i'd go with it, thou there are plenty of cheap ***fire cells that are of a poor quality, you wanna stay away from those, they sometimes blow up, if you have the pack on the belt, you will get hurt if they blow up (thou some trust fire gray and black protected cells have good reviews) also you wanna get protected cells, or if you building a pack, get good quality unprotected, and add pcb circuit, battery space sells pcb's some even have balancing option, they also sell cells, and chargers.
nimh are also good alternative, they are cheaper, safer, eneloops AA cells are great cells, they lack capacity of li ions, or even some other nimhAA cells, but they have very slow self discharge (i doubt it is important to you, since you pbly will charge it before each hunt anyway) and consistent high quality from cell to cell, also sanyo 2700 are good,
read up reviews here on batteries.
as for battery, i doubt canister or a tube will be ideal for your purposes, few flat boxes on the belt would be better than 1 tube, i build few battery belts before, i used housings from mcmaster carr.com they sell tons of boxes\enclosures, any size, any purpose.


do they make warm P7's? are they hard to come by? if there is more parts and cheaper equip like drivers and such for P7's, i might try that first and see how it goes...

you just may be right about just building a batt pack... ive seen those kits before, with the enclosers they all fit inside, im sure thats what they use on the belt lights. those bump caps that come with that wheat style heads are kinda flimsy, doing the head of a maglite in the same fashion they do the dive lights, would fix that problem, and still be a better reflector and housing.

i cant remember, but i once took a belt coon light apart, and seemed like there was 16 or 18 AA batts in there all wired together and sealed... dunno how much capacity that could make, but the light was a 21v incan, pretty dang bright...

im really wanting to get this LED light going, cause with the right modes and batterys, i bet it can really put out some light, or be able to neck down and last some long hours if need be, plus the main perk with using LED lights for shining game, is because of the amount of light needed to shine the eyes, is way way way lower than with incan bulbs. just a tiny bit of LED light will make coon eyes reflect back super bright. all the commercial coon LED lights ive seen, all use white LED's, which is a horrible color for viewing ~100ft through shadows, limbs, sticks ect... too many shadows and the color difference goes way down, so its hard to distinguish between tree/animal, it all blends together and makes it hard to pick something out... hopefully the warmer LED will solve that, the ones ive seen in flashlights have a good color when outside...
 
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