Pre "C" Maglite

landcruiser80 · Sep 1, 2010

Hi all,

Just got myself a maglite with no C in the serial number. Its a 6 cell. Maglite has advised it was built 04/20/1989

1)Why dont Malkoff and other drop in fit into these maglites? It the throat diameter bigger? Whats the reason?

2)Are these manufactured with a thicker wall? I believe that the internal diamter is larger to fit the old paper covered cells.

3)Do custom heads ( like Fivemegas 2.5" head) still fit, i.e is the thread still the same?

4)I am planning on a doing a MR16 mod. Do I have to modify the switch even it i use a 2 pin to PR adapter like the ones available on CPF? Or maybe a 62138 (12V 100W UCL)

5)Can I use the modern switches to replace the original swtich?

6)Do the metal rreflectors available on CPF fit the pre C head?

7) Can someone give me the formula to work out how much runtime yuo can expect from a certain amount of mAh?

Cheers

SmurfTacular · Sep 1, 2010

landcruiser80 said:
Hi all,

Just got myself a maglite with no C in the serial number. Its a 6 cell. Maglite has advised it was built 04/20/1989

1)Why dont Malkoff and other drop in fit into these maglites? It the throat diameter bigger? Whats the reason?

2)Are these manufactured with a thicker wall? I believe that the internal diamter is larger to fit the old paper covered cells.

3)Do custom heads ( like Fivemegas 2.5" head) still fit, i.e is the thread still the same?

4)I am planning on a doing a MR16 mod. Do I have to modify the switch even it i use a 2 pin to PR adapter like the ones available on CPF? Or maybe a 62138 (12V 100W UCL)

5)Can I use the modern switches to replace the original swtich?

6)Do the metal rreflectors available on CPF fit the pre C head?

7) Can someone give me the formula to work out how much runtime yuo can expect from a certain amount of mAh?

Cheers

Let me do the best I can answering your questions.

Here is a pic I borrowed from Downloads sales thread.

1) You can see the difference between the Pre-1991 Maglites, and the post 1991 Maglites. different head dimensions

2) I'm pretty sure the wall thickness is the same, just other dimensions are different.

3) Heads should still be the same size, and threads should match up.

4) It depends on how many amps you plan on running. I recommend replacing the switch if your pushing 10 amps or more.

5) Sure, what "modern" switch are you referring to? A rocker switch?

6) Yeah old Maglite reflectors fit new Maglite heads, and vice versa.

7) Maybe another CPF member knows the exact formula, because I don't know it off hand.

landcruiser80 · Sep 1, 2010

1)The drawings dont really explain the reason. The throat diamter on the head looks narrower, but C mag heads fit pre and post 91. If you replaced an old head with a new, than would the malkoff and other available drop in fit?

5)I was referring to the switches currently installed in stock maglites. concerned about cutting my switch up and than not beng able to return it to stock.

8) New Question.
If i use 4 x 26650 imr cells, and 50w mr16 spot.
V= 4 x 26650(3.7V) = 14.08 Volts
P=50W
I = unknown

P = VI
50=14.08*I
I = 3.55Amp

Am i correct in this?

SmurfTacular · Sep 1, 2010

landcruiser80 said:
1)The drawings dont really explain the reason. The throat diamter on the head looks narrower, but C mag heads fit pre and post 91. If you replaced an old head with a new, than would the malkoff and other available drop in fit?

5)I was referring to the switches currently installed in stock maglites. concerned about cutting my switch up and than not beng able to return it to stock.

8) New Question.
If i use 4 x 26650 imr cells, and 50w mr16 spot.
V= 4 x 26650 = 14.08 Volts
P=50W
I = unknown

P = VI
50=14.08*I
I = 3.55Amp

Am i correct in this?

5) There is no undoing cutting up the switch to access the + and - terminals. I would just buy a new C switch assembly and cut that one up. Or install a rocker switch.

Just FYI, 5C's, 6C's, and 7C's have been discontinued for 19 years. Your 6C Maglite is worth at least $100 stock.

ElectronGuru · Sep 1, 2010

landcruiser80 said:
concerned about cutting my switch up and than not beng able to return it to stock.

Last time I checked, Will had a few spares:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=165903

landcruiser80 · Sep 1, 2010

Have sent him a PM already, but thanks anyway.

From what I read above, the current Maglite switches work in pre C maglites.

Cheers

Inliner · Sep 2, 2010

The heads between "C" lights and earlier ones are not interchangeable. The tube on the body is thinner on the old lights and has finer thread pitch. The opening is also wider. You can get a copper sleeve from britelumens to use the common heatsinks and a Malkoff *should work fine. The reflectors are the same. The switches are very similar but use a different method for retention inside the body. Old uses a threaded retaining ring, and "C" lights use an internal snap ring.

jellydonut · Sep 2, 2010

The Malkoff dropins do not work in the old Maglites. Ask me how I know.:fail:

The body diameter is too big, I guess it's because the body material is thinner as the other guy said.

landcruiser80 · Sep 2, 2010

Inliner,

Does this mean you can use the newer switch on a pre C maglite?

landcruiser80 · Sep 2, 2010

landcruiser80 said:
Hi all,

4)I am planning on a doing a MR16 mod. Do I have to modify the switch even it i use a 2 pin to PR adapter like the ones available on CPF?

7) Can someone give me the formula to work out how much runtime yuo can expect from a certain amount of mAh?

8) New Question.
If i use 4 x 26650 imr cells, and 50w mr16 spot.
V= 4 x 26650 = 14.08 Volts
P=50W
I = unknown

P = VI
50=14.08*I
I = 3.55Amp

Am i correct in this?

Hack On Wheels · Sep 2, 2010

landcruiser80 said:
1)The drawings dont really explain the reason. The throat diamter on the head looks narrower, but C mag heads fit pre and post 91. If you replaced an old head with a new, than would the malkoff and other available drop in fit?

5)I was referring to the switches currently installed in stock maglites. concerned about cutting my switch up and than not beng able to return it to stock.

8) New Question.
If i use 4 x 26650 imr cells, and 50w mr16 spot.
V= 4 x 26650(3.7V) = 14.08 Volts
P=50W
I = unknown

P = VI
50=14.08*I
I = 3.55Amp

Am i correct in this?

First off, a 50W bulb should be fine on the stock switch. However, it wouldn't hurt popping the switch open and cleaning the contacts with some deoxit/pro gold. Make sure to keep track of all the pieces though!

As for the math... the bulb is 50W at the specified voltage, which I expect is 12V. Using P=VI the amperage should be in the range of 4.1667A. However, you are over-volting the bulb so I'd expect the amperage to be a bit higher. It will be more or less negligible though... so just say you'll have about a 4.2A draw, give or take a bit. To calculate the power consumption of the bulb in your setup just do VI=P again. 14.8V*4.2A=62.16W.

That setup will theoretically last you just under an hour, but I'd say more like 40/45 minutes of good light. I'm running more or less the same setup in a 6C Maglite, but I haven't run the batteries right down yet. It sure gets hot! A 50W bulb is much more practical than a 100W bulb if you are using it for more than just short bursts.

Inliner · Sep 2, 2010

I've never tried to put a newer switch in. I imagine if there is any fitment issue, it would arise when you try to thread on the retaining ring. The new ones my be a scoshe longer or shorter. Worth a shot? I cut my old switch. I have a 7B tinted XP-G in my old 6C and have no plans of ever going back.

Hack On Wheels · Sep 2, 2010

Inliner said:
I've never tried to put a newer switch in. I imagine if there is any fitment issue, it would arise when you try to thread on the retaining ring. The new ones my be a scoshe longer or shorter. Worth a shot? I cut my old switch. I have a 7B tinted XP-G in my old 6C and have no plans of ever going back.

Unless you are really rough with your light (or perhaps have extremely high spring tension), you don't really need the retaining ring. The grub screw that makes the negative contact for the switch does a pretty good job of holding the switch in place. Thanks goes to Raoul Duke for that tip.

Inliner · Sep 2, 2010

That's true. And honestly, I don't think reinstalled it on my 6c. Not easy when you have wires and a driver to contend with.

landcruiser80 · Sep 2, 2010

Inliner said:
I have a 7B tinted XP-G in my old 6C and have no plans of ever going back.

What lumens and run time to you get?

tx101 · Sep 2, 2010

Member Britelumens sells a sleeve that fits a Pre "C" Mag
which will allow you to use heatsinks and the Malkoff dropin
designed for the newer Mag Cs

ttwhin · Sep 3, 2010

@ landcruiser80 just recalculate battery capasity to W/h in example 14,8 volt battery setup with 4000mAh cell`s VxIh =Ph 14,8x4 = 59,2 Wh (watt-hour)

So with an 60 watt bulb (in one hour it have deliver 60 W/h) it should be capacity for an approx hour.
Runtime is 59,2/60 = 0,98 hour

Pre "C" Maglite

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