Tri SST Tri Copper 3000 lumens Mag 2D

ma_sha1

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Kind of tired making single SST mags, so here comes the Tri SST.

To make the light capable of handling the heat generated by 5-6Amp/12V 5AMP/12V 60-70W of power, Beefy copper were used for heating sinking for the head & Body by two separate pieces of copper. The host is a Copper mag 2D, that makes the total package tri copper :devil:

Tri Cree Reflector with SMO finish was used for better throw, this is added advantage for the SST, it would give donut for MCE but perfect for SST. The reflector were machined down a few mms to remove the ledge & allow fit into Mag Head.
dscf7588.jpg


The two piece of copper heat sinks were made:
dscf7456.jpg


The copper heat sink installed in Mag head with Arctic silver Adhesive:
dscf7487.jpg


The heat sink for the tube weight in nearly half a pound, this is after I hollowed the rear end a bit:
dscf7484z.jpg



The heat sink for the Mag Body was jointed to the copper head sink with
concentric applications of Arctic Silver Thermo adhesive for heat transfer & JB weld for added bonding strength.
dscf7503.jpg


The Avnet Top bin Tri SST-50 were de-domed for increase throw.
My previous light with SST-50 de-dome have shown increase of 30% in throw. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/275711
De-dome have also seems to give a better & smoother hot spot with softer edge on SMO. Tri SST-50 were wired in series.
dscf7461.jpg


Mad 2D fit 3xIMR 26500 perfectly, tail cap recessed spring mod is a must.
dscf7478.jpg

The light is meant to run on 3xIMR 26500, but will actually turn on with just two. It draws 400mA & it's already pretty bright with just two batteries.
dscf7572.jpg


Ceiling bounce test with two IMR 26500: It's quite throwy beam profile for a Multi LED build: 400mA/8V is about 3.2 Watt of power right now.
dscf7576.jpg


It's almost done but not quite, with 3xIMR, the light gives too much AMPs,
I had to wait for some power resistors to come before finish it up, the plan is to have it end up with 5-6 Amp going through the 3 SST-50, thus running at 60-70 Watt of total LED Power.
dscf7754h.jpg
 
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Al Combs

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Jul 2, 2007
Messages
872
Kind of tired making single SST mags, so here comes the Tri SST.

To make the light capable of handling the heat generated by 5-6Amp/12V 5AMP/12V 60-70W of power, Beefy copper were used for heating sinking for the head & Body by two separate pieces of copper. The host is a Copper mag 2D, that makes the total package tri copper :devil:

Tri Cree Reflector with SMO finish was used for better throw, this is added advantage for the SST, it would give donut for MCE but perfect for SST. The reflector were machined down a few mms to remove the ledge & allow fit into Mag Head.
Nice job as usual. Where did you get the triple reflector from? Is it a DX.sku.11922? The picture almost looks like it's made from metal. Better yet where do you get the time to make all these flashlights?:laughing:
The heat sink for the Mag Body was jointed to the copper head sink with
concentric applications of Arctic Silver Thermo adhesive for heat transfer & JB weld for added bonding strength.
It wouldn't be a ma_sha1 without the JB Weld.:)
The Avnet Top bin Tri SST-50 were de-domed for increase throw.
My previous light with SST-50 de-dome have shown increase of 30% in throw.
That's a brave move considering you were part of a long term stability discussion about effects of removing the dome. What do you cover the phosphor with after removing the dome? Were you succesful in getting a sample of LED optical silicone from Dow? Best of luck with whatever you used.:thumbsup:
The light is meant to run on 3xIMR 26500, but will actually turn on with just two. It draws 400mA & it's already pretty bright with just two batteries.


Ceiling bounce test with two IMR 26500: It's quite throwy beam profile for a Multi LED build: 400mA/8V is about 3.2 Watt of power right now.
Hope to hear your impression of a triple SST-50 against say a single Rebel SST-90. Or even better beamshot comparison.

It's almost done but not quite, with 3xIMR, the light gives too much AMPs,
I had to wait for some power resistors to come before finish it up, the plan is to have it end up with 5-6 Amp going through the 3 SST-50, thus running at 60-70 Watt of total LED Power.
Have you looked into TaskLED's H6CC? Driving 3 LED's it's 95% efficient. The bad part is George said the regulator takes about 1 volt out of the equation. So three IMR batteries might not be enough for 3 SST-50's.:(
 
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ma_sha1

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Thanks.

Yes, it's tri cree reflector from DX, made out of Alu.

I have time because its my stress relief & I have a lot of stress :devil:

On Techjunkie de-dome long-term effect thread, I think he mentioned Alcohol cleaning of the die, I am pretty sure that's the problem right there. We'll have to tell Techjunkie no more "drunk modding" :crackup:
My de-dome SST-50 Mag 1C is still as fresh looking as the date it was de-domed couple month ago. I cover it with Norland 61 & then remove it with tissue, there no visible layer but I assume there's a remaining thin film that helps to seal the air away? I am doing it just because it's been working great, not sure if it's necessary & I am not even sure if there's actually any Norland 61 film remaining after my procedure. It's working, why mess with it, right? There's no visible NOrlan layer to turn yellow with time.

I did get my optical silicone sample request approved from Dow Corning :whistle:
This is the stuff that I was approved on: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01064282&type=PROD


It won't out-throw SST-90, but it'll throw better than all the previous Tri LEDs on Mag, a "Yard Sweeper" Turbo?:) It'll have more total lumens than SST-90 & has a nicer looking spot (at 400ma right now, looks like a Tri SSC P4) very smooth transition between spot to flood.

The Mag Rebel SMO/SST-90 spot to flood transition is like falling off a cliff for lack of better words, it's super bright but looks "harsh".

Haven't looked at H6CC, I only look at drivers if I couldn't figure out direct drive route, for the ultimate simplicity & potential abuse by buyers. W/O IC circuit, this light will burn off some skin first before a chance to burn off these SSTs :devil:.
 
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bigchelis

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Prunedale, CA
This looks realy cool.


The copper slug you have looks insane. I really like your heatsinks and a massive one like this is a must for those watts.


Maybe when you get stressed out again you can put 3 SST-90's in there.


bigC
 

ma_sha1

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This looks realy cool.
The copper slug you have looks insane. I really like your heatsinks and a massive one like this is a must for those watts.

One more note I might add, the alu. tri reflector is a solid piece of Aluminum. It's JB welded to the Copper heat sink via three little "copper feet" in between the led star boards. The Reflector is elevated off the led slightly, not touching the led board. The Alu. reflector becomes part of the Heat sink assembly for the Mag head.

This looks realy cool.

Maybe when you get stressed out again you can put 3 SST-90's in there.

bigC

:crackup:
 

Al Combs

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Messages
872
Thanks.

Yes, it's tri cree reflector from DX, made out of Alu.

I have time because its my stress relief & I have a lot of stress :devil:
Thanks for the reflector info, I'll keep it bookmarked. This is a great hobby for lots of reasons.lovecpf
On Techjunkie de-dome long-term effect thread, I think he mentioned Alcohol cleaning of the die, I am pretty sure that's the problem right there. We'll have to tell Techjunkie no more "drunk modding" :crackup:
My de-dome SST-50 Mag 1C is still as fresh looking as the date it was de-domed couple month ago. I cover it with Norland 61 & then remove it with tissue, there no visible layer but I assume there's a remaining thin film that helps to seal the air away? I am doing it just because it's been working great, not sure if it's necessary & I am not even sure if there's actually any Norland 61 film remaining after my procedure. It's working, why mess with it, right? There's no visible NOrlan layer to turn yellow with time.
I thought the first de-dome incedent was a happy accident. Which is a little different than intentionally doing surgery on $70 worth of LED's. But as you say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Nice job.:)
I did get my optical silicone sample request approved from Dow Corning :whistle:
This is the stuff that I was approved on: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01064282&type=PROD
That's good to know. I may have to get in touch with them and do some serious begging.

FWIW, the SST's frame the original dome sits on should make an excellent mold. You fill the frame over the LED with your optical silicon glue. Take a PCX lens or anything flat with an attached piece of a glad sandwich bag (taped at the corners). Just place it over the LED frame with a small weight until it dries. The silicon glue won't stick to the polyethylene but will leave a beautifully smooth surface. The silicon glue where it oozes over the frame will be thin enough it can be easily torn without disturbing the glue over the LED. Perhaps some liquid dish detergent on a Q-Tip to coat the substrate around the frame to prevent sticking.
It won't out-throw SST-90, but it'll throw better than all the previous Tri LEDs on Mag, a "Yard Sweeper" Turbo?:) It'll have more total lumens than SST-90 & has a nicer looking spot (at 400ma right now, looks like a Tri SSC P4) very smooth transition between spot to flood.
I just like the idea of a 70 watt LED flashlight.:devil:
 

MikeAusC

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Jul 8, 2010
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Sydney, Australia
Is the Optical Silicone Neutral Cure ?

If it's acid-cure (smells like vinegar) then I wouldn't expect the LED to last for long.

For normal optical applications where it's in contact with Glass or Acrylic, it won't matter if it gives off acid fumes during curing.
 
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