iTP C8 switch repair

I've been using my C8 5 days a week for the last year and lately I've found that the switch was getting stiff and difficult to press.

Today when trying to use the light I found that the 'click' wouldn't always turn the light on.

I would like to repair this light but cant find iTP specific instructions on working with the switch. I also cannot find replacement tail caps since this light has been out of production for a little while.

Repair help first please, but...

Failing a repair I'm open to looking for a new light (all part of being a member here right?)

Need:
-2x AA format
-190 lumens and up
-tough (scraped/dropped on concrete, sharp metal edges)
-good belt sheath (no cover/flap)
-rear clicky on/off (one handed operation)
-must like eneloops/rechargeables
-shipping to or availability in Canada

Like:
-strong hot spot
-as FEW modes accessible from the switch as possible (I almost never use anything but high and have a Preon2 if I want anything dimmer)

Dont want:
-Tactical
-Crenelated bezel
-Pocket clip

Price:
I'll pay to get what I need and believe that money spent on quality pays itself back, but the less it costs the sooner I can afford it.

All suggestions welcome.

Fenix LD25 hands down.

Ok, it is rated at 180 lumens, but i would bet my last dollar that the 180 out of it is better than the 190 out of the iTP. I have an iTP C10T...great light, love it. I feel it is under rated compared to my others in similar class.

The LD25 has a lot of different modes. You hate that. Ok, let me qualify this for you.

I just got a Fenix TK12...3 modes, lots of options. The trick to it is the modes become "hidden". Meaning, you have to twist the head a few times to get to the next mode. Other than that, you only operate on 2 modes, all the time. My default mode is a "high and low". That is where I like it, so it stays. I turn it on, twist the head if I need the other mode...that's it.

When you find the mode you like, you only have to worry about 2 settings. You have the others if you need it, but not in the simple every day interface that you are talking about.

It takes NiMH...matter of fact, the output levels are based on 2500 Mah batteries...so you are in good shape.

The pocket clip comes off.

IMO you've described a quark AA^2 tactical (the tactical just refers to the fact that you can set two modes and leave them there-the tailcap has nothing to do with changing modes after they're set). The neutral white will give over 190 lumens, and the cool white over 206 lumens.

The pocket clip is easily removable, there are no crenellations, and the "tactical" doesn't mean you have to deal with disco party modes if you don't want to. Tactical also means it has a forward clicky, and the switch sticks out for easier operation.

$52.44 shipped worldwide after CPF8 discount for the neutral white.

wyager said:

IMO you've described a quark AA^2 tactical (the tactical just refers to the fact that you can set two modes and leave them there-the tailcap has nothing to do with changing modes after they're set). The neutral white will give over 190 lumens, and the cool white over 206 lumens.

The pocket clip is easily removable, there are no crenellations, and the "tactical" doesn't mean you have to deal with disco party modes if you don't want to. Tactical also means it has a forward clicky, and the switch sticks out for easier operation.

$52.44 shipped worldwide after CPF8 discount for the neutral white.

Click to expand...

OOH I like that too. :thumbsup:

Shur said:

I would like to repair this light but cant find iTP specific instructions on working with the switch. I also cannot find replacement tail caps since this light has been out of production for a little while.

Repair help first please, but...

Click to expand...

Before we jump the gun, lets talk repair for a minute. I don't know anything about the ITP C8 but I can tell you how I would do it in most other lights.

1) unscrew the tailcap to reveal what you see in the picture below
2) see the two dimples/holes in the silver washer that surroundes the spring in the tailcap? Take a pair of needle nose pliers (strong ones) and stick the points of the pliers in the dimples/holes.
3) The silver washer is actually threaded in the vast majority of lights. Twist the pliers to unscrew the threaded washer. The washer will come out of the tailcap along with the switch (spring is attached to switch) and the rubber boot.
4) You may be able to buy a new switch from ITP becasue I'm sure they use the same one on most of their lights. You may even be able to use a quark switch (buy tailcap and use switch) or any switch. Check the specs but you may be able to use this one http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5632 or this one http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15879 Somebody else may have a better source for switches.
5) Re-use the threaded washer and boot to put the tailcap back together with the new switch.

tre said:

Before we jump the gun, lets talk repair for a minute. I don't know anything about the ITP C8 but I can tell you how I would do it in most other lights.

1) unscrew the tailcap to reveal what you see in the picture below
2) see the two dimples/holes in the silver washer that surroundes the spring in the tailcap? Take a pair of needle nose pliers (strong ones) and stick the points of the pliers in the dimples/holes.
3) The silver washer is actually threaded in the vast majority of lights. Twist the pliers to unscrew the threaded washer. The washer will come out of the tailcap along with the switch (spring is attached to switch) and the rubber boot.
4) You may be able to buy a new switch from ITP becasue I'm sure they use the same one on most of their lights. You may even be able to use a quark switch (buy tailcap and use switch) or any switch. Check the specs but you may be able to use this one http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5632 or this one http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15879 Somebody else may have a better source for switches.
5) Re-use the threaded washer and boot to put the tailcap back together with the new switch.

Click to expand...

I managed to get it apart and expected to find a load of crud in there but it was perfectly clean. The switch on its own didnt show any signs of stiffness and since putting it back together I havent have any further problems.

I think I'll have to get the Quark AA^2 just in case the C8 fails while I'm waiting on the switches to make their way over here.

great!:thumbsup: Thanks for the update.

Shur,

Glad you got your ITP working again. I hate not having a dependable light at hand too...

Is the ITP a forward or reverse clicky? Just curious. I will mention that Shining
Beam [a CPF supporter] stocks some nice replacement forward clicky switches for the Romisen N3 and G2. Well made and less than $2....

well if it is forward you can easily replace it with the Forward click switch that KD sells

btw according the the firms website the C8T has a forward clickie and the C8R a reverse one..

First, thanks for the help so far.

Well it's started jamming up again. There were a few times where I wasnt able to turn it on even while holding it in one hand and pushing with the other.

I've got the C8R - reverse clicky.

ShiningBeam is where I bought my first one or two iTP lights, and I've been looking for a second A3 SS upgraded but I'd like to stick with Reverse. OTOH they have the sheath I like for under $4.

Goinggear seems to have the A3 I want as well as the Quark AA2, but there's also the AA2 Turbo.
Turbo sounds like more but will it give me a more intense hot spot in distances under 6'? The beamshots I've found all seem to be long distance garbage can hunting.

The turbo version has the same emitter with a larger head, forward clicky, and tactical UI. The total lumens is the same but the Lux (throw) is more and thus it will have a tighter and more intense hotspot at 6 feet and under. On the other hand, you can turn down the brightness of the light to do close up work.