Built me a ROP. Thanks FiveMega

What a killer conversion. Tremendous light output. I have a bunch of batteries on chargers right now waiting for sun down. I have a feeling this light is going to reach out a LONG ways.

These are some seriously well made components too. Hats off to quality. Well worth the price.:thumbsup:

Incan's are growing on me...

Pics and/or parts list?

ROPs are great. I love my 2C Mag ROP-Lo build.

UCL lens, MOP reflector, 3854-Lo bulb, download's Mag C Tower, 2x25500 Li-Ions, and one of FM's tailcaps.

It has a beautiful beam and should run for over an hour per charge; it also seems like a lot more light than it's rated for! :twothumbs

I am unsure the actual parts list, but I think FiveMega makes this all himself aside from the lens. Maybe he does that too, I am uncertain.

The heat is incredible too. Feels like one of those 2 million candlepower lights that plug into your cigarette lighter.

My conversion is for the 2D Maglite.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

That looks like one of Fivemegas bifocal reflectors, so it was indeed made by him.
ROPs are sure to convince anyone that incans can still be cool (not literally of course)!

That reflector sure has a nice beam profile to it. And yes, this sucker will cook your hand if you let it.

You should pick up FM's PR G4 bi-pin socket. That'll open up some more bulbs for this host like the WA1111. If you get a reflector with a big enough opening you can use the Philips 5761 as well.

You lost me my friend. Up until 2 weeks ago, I never heard of ROP or 18650 rechargeables.

Slow down a bit and help a noob out with all those terms will ya?

TwinBlade said:

I am unsure the actual parts list, but I think FiveMega makes this all himself aside from the lens. Maybe he does that too, I am uncertain.

The heat is incredible too. Feels like one of those 2 million candlepower lights that plug into your cigarette lighter.

Click to expand...

Congrats

There's about 40 watts of heat and maybe 700-800 lumens coming out of the front. I use it to cure heatshrink tubing when doing mods, no kidding. Light it up, place it over the heatshrink tubing at point blank range, wait a while and occasionally lift to see whether it is shrinking.

Looks like FiveMega shortened the tail spring to lower the resistance.

I always recommend a golden shorty spring when building a ROP in 2D form.

Did he itemize the parts list? What did he want for the reflector?

I wonder if a ZR mod can be made for the Mag tailcap. Seems like it would be pretty straightforward because it doesn't function like a SF tailcap.

Mjolnir said:

That looks like one of Fivemegas bifocal reflectors, so it was indeed made by him.
ROPs are sure to convince anyone that incans can still be cool (not literally of course)!

Click to expand...

sure does...I have one of his MOPs running in mine...the bifocal appears to be an SMO. I wonder how the two compare in the beamshot. The SMO's going to win out on throw of course but you'll see more of the lamp

ROP's basic Part list
* 6AA to 2D battery holder
* Cammed/camless metal reflector...from FM theres SMO, LOP, MOP, HOP, light stipple, medium stipple, heavy stipple, and bifocal. Theres a couple for his deep reflectors but I'm not sure if there were lamps under the 1185 that were used in it.
* the window would have to be converted either to borosilicate or UCL
Since the ROP lamps are already in PR form, no G4-Bipin adapter is needed. FM makes these in brass or SS

The resistance mods would vary from changing out the tail spring to revamping the entire switch assembly. I didn't do the resistance fix on mine because I want it to be reversible, plus the minute pockets of resistance along the electrical path prevents lamp failure with off-the-charger batteries that have not migrated down to their "resting voltages"

Hack On Wheels said:

Pics and/or parts list?

ROPs are great. I love my 2C Mag ROP-Lo build.

UCL lens, MOP reflector, 3854-Lo bulb, download's Mag C Tower, 2x25500 Li-Ions, and one of FM's tailcaps.

It has a beautiful beam and should run for over an hour per charge; it also seems like a lot more light than it's rated for! :twothumbs

Click to expand...

Low is a 2 amp device. Capacity of your batteries divided by 2000 will give you theoretical runtime. Of course don't drain it that far, li-ions don't like it.

We have always heavily overdriven ROP bulbs after finding out that they could take it. You can light a low bulb HOT on 8.4V of high-rate NiMH with extremely little voltage sag, and it won't blow. I did that all the time in the early years.

In fact the original 3854 product is designed for a 6V SLA system. But on CPF it almost seems 'wrong' to drive it at 6V when we know it has so much more potential.

7.2V is our typical drive voltage, and incans put out A LOT more light when overdriven, as well as burning hotter and whiter for better color temperature and color rendition. For example, 200 (rated) bulb lumens becomes a stunning 378 when you bump the voltage. Nearly double.

When I first started the ROP project in '04, 378 lumens was pretty sick. For comparison, our best LED was the Luxeon V, 180 lumens on a good day at full blast. Most used the Luxeon III, 80 lumens.

Sailboat said:

Did he itemize the parts list? What did he want for the reflector?

I wonder if a ZR mod can be made for the Mag tailcap. Seems like it would be pretty straightforward because it doesn't function like a SF tailcap.

Click to expand...

Yes it can be done. You simply need to find a way to bridge the negative terminal of the battery to the aluminium body shell of the light, since the switch is up front and isolates the positive terminal, breaking the circuit there. The negative terminal is always connected. This exercise can be left to the reader, for example you could machine a tailcap out of solid silver or gold for electrical conductivity and connect it to the shell, which would also boost your BLING factor. But I am sure there are other ways which are more practical.....

I'm glad you are satisfied with your ROP my friend...

It's interesting that TB and I went different ways...we are friends in real life and talk frequently on another forum. I wanted the best in a 2C and he went for the best in a 2D. My choice was the Mag11 for balanced performance, he went for bright.

Both are great builds and worthy still today in LED land.

I still might add a Mag85 though...

...or perhaps go for the 623.

KevinL said:

Low is a 2 amp device. Capacity of your batteries divided by 2000 will give you theoretical runtime. Of course don't drain it that far, li-ions don't like it.

We have always heavily overdriven ROP bulbs after finding out that they could take it. You can light a low bulb HOT on 8.4V of high-rate NiMH with extremely little voltage sag, and it won't blow. I did that all the time in the early years.

In fact the original 3854 product is designed for a 6V SLA system. But on CPF it almost seems 'wrong' to drive it at 6V when we know it has so much more potential.

7.2V is our typical drive voltage, and incans put out A LOT more light when overdriven, as well as burning hotter and whiter for better color temperature and color rendition. For example, 200 (rated) bulb lumens becomes a stunning 378 when you bump the voltage. Nearly double.

Click to expand...

Yup, the current draw is a bit over 2A I believe, and my batteries are theoretically a bit over 3Ah, so I "should" be able to get over an hour of runtime. I wouldn't count on it, but there you go...

I always look at LuxLuthor's great bulb testing an re-rating information for bulb specs. It's amazing when I consider that some of my MC-E/P7/multi-emitter lights should be putting out 500+ OTF, but the ROP-Lo looks like it gives much more light even with a bit of a lower rating. Give or take 100 lumens at that point and you shouldn't notice much of a difference, but it really does seem brighter somehow. Incans are awesome and you can't beat the ROP to start with!

Hack On Wheels said:

I always look at LuxLuthor's great bulb testing an re-rating information for bulb specs. It's amazing when I consider that some of my MC-E/P7/multi-emitter lights should be putting out 500+ OTF, but the ROP-Lo looks like it gives much more light even with a bit of a lower rating. Give or take 100 lumens at that point and you shouldn't notice much of a difference, but it really does seem brighter somehow. Incans are awesome and you can't beat the ROP to start with!

Click to expand...

That's what I thought. 5 years and advances in LED technology were supposed to have put it out of business, but it seems to still burn bright. :thumbsup:

Still love my HIGH output bulb though - 1K lumens rocks! holds its own against any LED I can come up with including my latest quad cree (close to 1K too).

You also need to try 2x18650's, this will really bring the bulb to life and won't dim down as quick as the Ni-mh's. Twin Blade, this is a good thread for the beginner just starting out in hotwires.

Im mostly LED but made a 2c imr ROP , even with low bulb its a keeper.

Careful or you will end up wanting a 1909 soon or even what MrArtillery has in his sig line, its a slippery slope,

mrartillery said:

You also need to try 2x18650's, this will really bring the bulb to life and won't dim down as quick as the Ni-mh's. Twin Blade, this is a good thread for the beginner just starting out in hotwires.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that link. I will go read it and I will try the 18650's as well. Just gotta build an adapter.

Andreas, Regarding the tail spring, it is the stock spring.

Nasty, we need to stop talking. You are doing my bank account very ill will...

TB...the adapter for 18650's is nothing more than a piece of water pipe hose about 5" long. Take a cell with you to the hardware store.

Hmm...yeah...a 1909 *would* be nice!

Time to go shopping!