The SST-50 throws nicely when mounted in a deep and wide reflector. It is well matched with the IMR 26650 to put out lots of light with usable run time. In fact, I like this format so much that I decided to make five identical lights. Here are some specs:
SST-50: SSR-50-W57S-R21-GJ200
32mm reflector
Three level ShiningBeam driver paralleled with an additional 7135 board for increased current
Red silicone o-rings with a spare set of black o-rings if red doesn't float your boat
Nyogel 760 on the threads
6061 aluminum and brass
McClicky switch
6.125" long, 1.18" body diameter, 1.5" bezel diameter
$400 (was $425) conus via UPS.
Insurance is at the buyer's option and expense. Risk of loss is on the buyer. International shipping will be via USPS at additional cost.
"I'll take it" with prompt PM and PP payment has priority.
After a lot of planning (and the construction of a prototype that isn't shown), all the major parts are roughed out.
The basic assembly doesn't look like much before the detail work.
The bases of the stars are rarely flat or smooth but this can be fixed on the lathe. This results in better heat transfer from the star to the light engine.
After doing quite a few measurements on various lights I've made, I've come to the conclusion that it isn't a very good idea to give a definite spec for current draw. There are just too many variables. This light engine uses parts that should give it a nominal maximum draw of 4.2A. When driven by a hobbyist quality (as opposed to lab quality) 10A bench supply at 4.0V through short, heavy leads, the draw is 4.1A but it is asking way too much for a battery to replicate the ability of a bench supply to provide consistent results. In practice, it works out that the draw measured at the tail cap is dependent on the actual battery, its state of charge and the measuring equipment and technique. Depending on these factors, you should see current in the range of three to four amps on High. Medium is about one amp and low is about .15 amp. The better way to evaluate these lights is that they put out a walloping amount of light on High. That's not a very scientific way to put it but it's what we're after.
The head and body get pretty warm but are easily holdable on High even after several minutes.
Quite a few parts go into a single light. It is hard to see but the color of the body is slightly different from the bezel, as they were machined out of different pieces of stock. It ends up being more of a feature than a problem (if you notice it at all).
When the camera is stopped down so that the center of the beam isn't washed out, you can see that the beam is really clean.
Down the bank and across the street:
A half block away:
Although the 26650 is a big battery, the light ends up being a nice size that fits well in the hand. An advantage of using brass for the body is that the diameter can be minimized without sacrificing strength.
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