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Thread: FS: Triple SST-50 Yard-Sweeper Turbo II-- With Full Body Copper Heat sink

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    Flashaholic* ma_sha1's Avatar
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    Default SOLD: Triple SST-50 Yard-Sweeper Turbo II-- With Full Body Copper Heat sink

    I finally finished this light that I've been working on it for quite a while.

    This is the brightest Mag mod I ever made its probably the last crazy mag from me since I am turning my interest into short arc, focus my limited spare time on beating my Maxa Beam







    Price is $395. US only.

    PP fee 4% or free if PP gift

    Shipping $15. Insurance $4 optional.

    It runs on 3 AW IMR 26500 (Not included)





    The Triple SST-50 Yard-Sweeper Turbo II is Not De-domed, slightly more floody but still a strong hot spot, unlike TRi P7/MCS wall of light, it has more lumens than the Original de-domed Turbo sold here:

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...g-2Dp=3520964



    However, the biggest improvement over the original Turbo is the Full length copper heat sink, besides Copper heat-sink for the head Neck, Ive added a copper inner tube that runs the full length of the Copper mag 2D.



    The end result is a far better heat-sinking than any of previous mags ever on CPF. After 5 minus run, the light get warm but not hot, so this mag can Run full strength on 3x SST-50 vs. previous Turbo that Runs for 5 Min max before it gets too hot to hold.



    Since most of the construction is same as the Previous Turbo, I'll focus on the improvement made to keep the post short.



    I started with 2 feet long Copper tube that's slightly fatter than mag ID.

    Cut it with my table saw, then Grind the OD for several hours carefully using the side blade of the table saw to thin down the tube so it'll go into the Mag D body.









    View of the Copper heat pipe installed, it transfer heat all the way to the tail.









    As you can see, The copper sleeve is recessed, so the big copper heat sink has two diameters to make contact with Mag D tub then insert part of it into the Cooper sleeve.



    I installed the resistor into the center hole to allow the heat sink being 0.5 longer than before it sticks out from mag heat a bit almost touch the switch.





    One of the obvious issues created by the copper sleve is that it no longer fit mag D switch. I made a PVC adaptor inside the Copper sleeve with 26mm ID, this allows the Mag D to run a mag C switch. What you see in the picture above is Mag C switch.



    This created yet another problem, the switch screw does not screw out far enough to contact the mag D wall to complete the electrical path. This problem is solved by making a small brass spacer so that screw will make contact with the wall by way of the brass spacer.





    Another problem created by running the mag C switch is that the push button side is too short, the boot can not reach it. This problem i solved by cutting a Button boot with center pole glue to the under side of the Mag button to gain another 3mm of reach. Quite a few head aches resolved I am Very happy with the end results.







    With single SST-50 single IMR, Its hard to get to 5A, most likely 3.5-4A.

    With 3xSST-50 3 IMR in series, its the other way around, itll get up to 8 Amp.

    This is because 3 -SST/3 IMR in one mag has 66% less mag resistance.



    Thus must have a high power resistor to bring the Amp back down it might be a different value each time.



    I tried quite a few High power resistor, as each SST-50 may have a different vf. Last time I used 2x1.5 Ohm (0.3W total), this time I used single 0.24 Ohm 7W resistor, which regulate start Amp to be 4.8 Amp on 3x IMR 26500 direct drive of 3 SSt-50 in series. 4.8A/12v = 57.6 Watt of Power. The system is slightly more efficient than last time as the resistor is 0.24 Ohm vs 0.3 Ohm.



    The resistor is potted then added a carbon fiber trim plate to cover the hole.



    One thing I didnt show last time is how much you have to shave the reflector to get it to fit: Here it is, left = stock, Right = shaved ready to use.





    To get a perfect focus also prevent reflector Rotating around when tighten the Bezel (The sheer force may push the dome off if the reflector rotates).

    I used three little brass screws, shaved down a bit JB welded to the copper heat sink as well as reflector together. This way, you can get a perfect centering itll never move when you rotate the bezels.





    Completed:

    Last edited by ma_sha1; 03-11-2011 at 10:30 AM.

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