I have to admit it look a while for me to finish this review. The LD20 now comes with the XPG-R5 LED, but is pretty much the exact same light.
The new stated lumens are ANSI lumens, while the stated lumens that I had for the R4 version where, I believe, emitter lumens. To make it simple, even if the output numbers are not as impressive on the R5 version, it will definitely be brighter than the R4 version.
I hope you enjoy my review.
I have started collecting flashlights after discovering brighter and brighter portable lighting a few years back. It only started as a quest for a single flashlight that would turn the unpleasant experiences of having to look for campsites at dusk, but soon became a mad quest for THE perfect light. I already thought I had found just that when I discovered my first good quality LED flashlight and the same for the flashlight before that. Soon came another one and, even before that delivery came through, I discovered and ordered two L2D Q5's (ancestor of the LD20): one for my cousin and one for myself. This was to be our brightest flashlight at the time and it felt like first love.
Earlier this past summer, my cousin lost his beloved L2D while we where out to take some extreme beam shots for our own contentment and also because I needed some good shots for my TK45 review. I once asked him what would he replace his L2D with if he ever lost it. His answer was: "another L2D." Useless to say my cousin wanted a new one badly, so I ordered it for him. Since it has been in my possession for a little while before I gave it over to its rightful owner, I took the opportunity to review this classic.
I think a lot of flashaholics agree that the LD20 really is an all-time classic of the flashlight world: portable, versatile, plenty of modes, standard batteries and BRIGHT. It definitely is one of the best starter lights for someone who wants to find out what a real flashlight is like, but doesn't feel ready to invest in harder to come by batteries or exotic chargers.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Side Note: I have to go back in time to give my honest first impressions on this light. I have used my older L2D Q5 so much over the last two and a half years that it has become a normal piece of equipment to me; it's a little like that old hammer in the tool box that still gets the job done right and will likely last forever. If I could say that only one of my flashlights has been paid off, this is the one and the same goes for my cousin's lost L2D. I have no choice here but to direct my thoughts at comparing the L2D and the LD20 on some points. I might even confuse them on some occasions, but that's not a problem as they are basically the same flashlight even if there are some noticeable physical changes. I have to admit that all the memories brought up by this review are making me a little emotional and I even have goose bumps as I'm writing this. I have to warn you that I will share some memories during this review and might talk in the past tense a lot.
PACKAGING
To a flashaholic, opening the box is almost like having sex with a new partner for the first time. We get down to it faster every time around, tend to forget about the preliminaries, but it's always a new discovery. It's all part of the ritual. This time I held back and waited to get to my outdoor shooting location before opening anything. It was a little of a challenge since I received three new lights at the same time and wanted to take pictures of all three.
The LD20 comes in the same standard quality packaging most Fenix flashlights come in.
Included accessories:
Lanyard
2 Spare o-rings
Spare switch boot
Holster
Instruction pamphlet and warranty card
LOOK
Left: LD20 R4 Right: L2D Q5
I originally thought of the design of the L2D as very different from anything I had seen before. I did like it from the start and still like it now. The new look on the LD20 gives me the same impression again, even if it is very familiar.
The one thing I noticed right away where those ring features that look like cooling fins on the one part of the body that doesn't need cooling. It probably has more to do with renewing the style and I think it adds some futuristic type of look. There is a second functionality to these as we'll see in a moment.
HAND HOLD
The LD20 is a thinner flashlight that is very comfortable to hold. It is very well balanced and the head does stick out almost two inches from the hand. Some people like a wider and shorter body for a stronger grip, but the LD20's size is really in good proportions. For any non-initiated, this is a very small flashlight for the light that is puts out and is very impressive to see for the first time.
I remember calling my cousin while laughing my head off when I received our first L2D shipment. We had just spent over a hundred dollars each on flashlights in the same month (at thirty to forty bucks per light) and this one alone cost double any of the other flashlights and was totally justified… even more so than the other ones, honestly.
The design of the body takes advantage of the thinner AA batteries to include a good grip profile for cigar hold.
Holding it in a one-fingered cigar hold now makes the purpose of these new rings clearer: they help the grip a lot. (Sorry, it seems I have lost the picture for this)
Other Fenix owners won't need to hear that the lettering is very crisp and has been etched as well as painted on the head, insuring you will always have a way to identify the model and serial numbers. One difference I notice with the L2D is that when the head is set in general mode, the model number on the head is centered with the lettering on the body. There is very little play from this position to switch over to turbo mode, so it gives a nice reference to set your light in general mode and ready for some action.
Head set for general mode
Head screwed in completely for turbo mode
COMPARING WITH THE L2D
Other new features added to the LD20 are more aggressive knurling, built-in anti-roll ring, pocket clip, slightly crenulated head, switch access cut-out on the tail cap, smooth reflector, larger lanyard holes and square-cut threads. I will go over these in detail shortly.
Left to Right: PD30 R2, LD20 R4, L2D Q5
BUTTON AND OPERATION
The button on the LD20 is of the reverse clicky type. For the less informed, a reverse clickie is a switch that you must fully depress to switch the light on or off. When the light is on, a half-press lets you change the modes. This means that there is no momentary on feature on this flashlight, making it a personal use rather than a tactical use flashlight. The upside is that the different modes are all readily accessible.
The switch seems a little stiffer on this LD20 sample than on my older L2D and PD30 R2, but only so slightly. For all I know this could have more to do with the mileage my older lights have than anything else, or to variations due to construction.
The head is very easy to turn with just two fingers, so it is very easy to switch from general to turbo mode while holding it with one hand only.
POWER AND BATTERIES
Only 2 AA batteries are needed to operate the LD20, whether they are of Alkaline, NiMh or Lithium chemistry. With all these chemistries available, the LD20 can be used in a variety of temperature range or places away from the city and the more exotic batteries where only standard batteries can be found. This was my first basis for choosing the L2D over other more powerful flashlights. Had I not experienced the power of strong portable light, I would possibly still be using older less practical lights.
Some people are very concerned about batteries rattling around inside of their flashlights. My personal belief on this is that any flashlight containing two or more batteries that does not have a special carrier will most likely have at least a little bit of a battery rattle. Working with technology I know that all things are not created equal, so battery diameter is a variable. As a responsible entity, a flashlight manufacturer must take into account this variation and allow at least some clearance just in case. That being said, I did shake the LD20 with Rayovac NiMh Hybrid rechargeables inside of it to discover that I could barely hear any rattling at all when shaking the light hard. This is likely bound to some variations with different batteries.
CONSTRUCTION
BODY
The body is sealed by an o-ring on each end, to insure waterproofing to IPX-8 standard. Although a lot of people preach very regular lubrication of these o-rings, I have lubricated mine only once a year with no ill effect so far. We also have used L2D's and PD30's in pouring rain for hours with no problems whatsoever, so I'm confident about the consistency of the Fenix built quality on weatherproofing.
Head side of the body tube
Tail side of the body tube
The body on here is surprisingly thick. There is an obvious weaker point around the middle, but this part is shorter than on the previous versions and most likely at least as thick as the PD30's battery tube.
Body threads here the head screws in. Well lubed threads and o-rings right out of the box on this sample.
Fenix has finally converted over to square cut threads. I never had an issue in the past with standard threads, but a lot of people boast that square cut threads are stronger and more resistant. I think they are mainly smoother to work and easier to clean and these will require some cleaning every now and then to insure good conductivity, just as any other aluminum flashlight. The O-rings will require a little lubrication as well to prevent wear from friction with the other parts or just plain drying out.
Anodized threads for the tail cap.
The back end of the tube has anodized threads, allowing a locking out of the light to prevent it to accidentally turn on by simply unscrewing the tail cap. A very small amount of travel is needed to cut the contact, even less than one eighth of a turn, turning this flashlight into a potential twistie, especially that the tail cap is very easy to turn.
HEAD PLAYING LEGO
I do not have specs on the voltage limits of this light. Knowing Fenix, it is probably not the same head used on the PD30. Try mix-matching at your own risk. I did install my PD30 R2 head on my L2D Q5 body and could only get low mode, so the circuit design is definitely too different for direct compatibility with anything that runs on a different battery voltage and you might burn the LED when mix-matching parts of a higher capacity battery tube with a lower capacity flashlight head. A little bit of knowledge can go a long way here and I do not have all the necessary data. Keep in mind that the newer square cut threads mean that you will not be able to mix parts with older Fenix flashlights.
I can however confirm that it is compatible with the PD20 R2 I have in my possession and have gotten very similar results when exchanging the heads. The LD20 head is most certainly designed for a 3.0 volt supply (so is the PD20 R2 head), so running the LD20 on a single RCR123 battery (3.7 volts) did override the boost type regulation circuit. It basically works the same as my PD20 on a single RCR123 battery: on high all the time.
Slight crenellation of the head.
This does not look like a strike bezel at all. I believe the point was to let you know if you left the light on when leaving it in a head stand and it has the secondary advantage of letting out some useful light, but less aggressive for the eyes than when tail standing. It makes a nice night light and does have some interesting advantages for camping that I have not had a chance to try out so far.
One feature that has been a constant since the R2 series: built-in anti-roll ring with flat sides. I cannot comment much on any changes over the time but I did observe that my PD30R2 has four flat sides, while the LD20 R4 has five. This can only mean it is not quite as stable. I do have a preference for the four sided feature of my PD30 which is very stable but, sine I'm not willing to be in charge of the clip removal (hey, not my light!), I cannot really confirm I am right in thinking there should be that much difference in stability.
It might have been nice to have some knurling on the round part of the ring to help turning the head when operating the light with just one hand, even though it is not very likely to be something most people will do. My personal experience has been that whenever I needed to switch to or from turbo mode, it was only a temporary thing for a few seconds. Also, knurling on this part of the light could mean it's easier to scratch your nice dinner table. It really comes to a pro versus con dilemma and I think this light was designed with the safer option in mind which seems to be a constant for Fenix.
The standard Fenix LD/PD series accessories all fit on this head. I prefer not to comment on these here, as this is a flashlight review, not an accessory review. I might review the Fenix accessories sometime in the future.
THE BUSINESS END : LED AND REFLECTOR
XPG R4 LED (The newer edition has the R5, by the way)
On this sample, the LED is definitely a little off-center with absolutely no visible effect to the beam pattern. LED size certainly has an influence over this, but quite possibly reflector quality as well.
The smooth reflector has no ill effect over the beam quality. Smaller LED's seem to make for a better beam pattern, or Fenix has learned something about reflector design. Either way, smooth reflectors allow for better throw and we'll see how much of an improvement there has been since the L2D Q5 in the beam shot section.
I did notice that the reflector on the LD20 seems a little deeper than the one on my L2D and PD30 R2. This should make some small difference in the beam pattern and throw, but we'll see about that in time.
The spectrum color on this sample is on the cool side like most LED flashlights. Even if this LD20 sample has a cooler color on a white wall than my first love, the L2D, color rendition is exactly the same to my eyes on all the colored objects I've illuminated.
TAILCAP SWITCH
Due to the switch access cut-outs, the LD20 has lost a little stability for tail standing since the older days of fully flat cap ends. It still does tail stand nicely, but you need a very stable surface when compared with the older version. The positive side of this is that the switch is more accessible, provided you line up the cut-out with your thumb first.. I remember my cousin complaining about tendonitis in his thumb from playing with his L2D too much, so he had turned to his PD30 R2 for a while. I must recon he is not a good example when it comes to using flashlights for a normal purpose.
One of the things that bothered me was that the tail cap cutouts seemed badly aligned while everything else is. I had the impression that either Fenix or I missed something. Taking the flashlight in my hand, ready for operation, I realized that it was no mistake:
When your fingers touch the anodization of the side and then fold them for a normal hold, the cutout will align perfectly for your thumb… PURE GENIOUS! These guys must try their lights out before sending in the production request. Fenix definitely understands the craving and the reasons for precision. If someone would go back in time to tell me ten years ago about such precision on flashlight build, I certainly would have called an ambulance for them. Ten years later I'm raving about it in my review! You have to admit it is a very nice feature, since grabbing a flashlight is likely to be something you'll be doing in the dark… As a side-note, it works equally well for left-handers, but with the difference that your fingers will be touching the flat part of the battery tube.
Hmmm… small scratches. Won't affect the functionality, though, and certainly means that someone made sure it was on real tight… or it was Friday and his buddies where waiting at the pub.
The switch assembly design is the same Fenix has always used. If it works, why change it? The access to the switch is very easy if you ever need to change it (my cousin didn't kill his before losing it, so it is doubtful you'll ever have to): Use a pair of long-nosed pliers and insert them into the small holes on the retainer ring and turn counter-clockwise.
The only reason I mention this here is that I have heard and seen instances where the retainer ring became just a bit loose and the flashlight wouldn't turn on. Make sure it is screwed in tight and all threads and contact points are clean, this has solved all my problems so far – well, ok, changing the batteries when they are dead and taking your finger off the lens also helps.
One wide lanyard hole is available on each side for easy attachment. I do recommend the use of a lanyard on rough terrain as you will probably not feel like going down a steep hill with your own flashlight blinding you as it rolls down (happened to me once, but I had plenty of backup light to fight back)
CLIP
The LD20 comes with a sturdy clip already attached.
The biggest innovation for the recent Fenix LD/PD series flashlights is the pocket clip. It wasn't up to me to remove this clip as this is not mine. I did however buy a PD20 which has the same clip design, only smaller, and removed that one.
I can say that this is a very strong and sturdy clip with plenty of mid-length clearance and the tip sits tight against the body. It will definitely keep your precious light firmly in place. It is so tight that the clearance is a must to help spread it open when clipping the flashlight to a pocket or your belt. You can wear inside or outside your pocket, it will not come off on its own. The head sticks out far enough from your pocket that it is very accessible and easy to grab and comes off easily enough so you won't pull a wedgie on yourself. Clipping it to a belt is also a good place to keep it secured and can be done with one hand. The bottom part of the clip will stay tight against an average sized belt, so the flashlight will not travel around.
I was never really liked clips, but this design has me thinking twice about my position. Removing the clip requires a little effort and you will notice that it will not come off on it's own by accident. The only negative point here is that I did see a little mark on my PD20's finish after removing the clip. Make sure you have a very good grip and pull evenly. You do have to look for the mark on my work light in order to see it, though, but I thought that some would prefer to have a heads up.
The clip does have lips that will help prevent scratches and make it easier to reinsert on the body. I have not tried this out myself on the LD20 unfortunately, but it is much easier to reinsert than to remove on my PD20, so I expect the same to be true here.
The body was designed to include a small recess for the clip to stay in place. The only way it could move is by turning around the body. Fenix opted for a head side clip, keeping the lens out of your pocket and away from scratches. Some will find it a disappointment to learn that there is only one way to install this clip. Even though I do not use clips myself, I would have liked to see the ring features on the tail end have an extra purpose and allow for a bezel-down carry, which would mean the flashlight comes off in a ready to use position.
I almost forgot to mention that the clip is also a very good anti-roll accessory. It does not feel unpleasant at all when handling the LD20 and even adds a little more body size to grip.
KNURLING
It seems that Fenix went lighter on the knurling distribution on this one when compared to other recent LD/PD series flashlights, as our little friend seems to point out here.
The knurling is placed on the parts that count the most, except for the head. I did mention something about knurling on the anti-roll ring, but a little knurling in front of the ring might have been nice, while protecting the family table. It is not a must, however, since the head is very easy to turn and the flat sides help too.
The rhombic knurling is much more present and much more aggressive than on past production models. It fells smooth for something that also gives such a good grip. I did test it under running water and can confirm that it does it's job in wet conditions.
FINISH
I cannot say anything different than I have in my other reviews. The finish is very nice and even all over. I cannot see any blemishes anywhere and there is no visible difference at all from one part to another. I have found that dropping my Fenix lights on gravel will often leave a mark or remove a small chip in the anodization, but every time.
There are no rough edges to be found anywhere on this flashlight, even on the clip. Despite that it is a little long, it is a comfortable pocket carry light; it might put some pressure on your leg when you sit or bend, but you will not have any scars on you at the end of the day.
MODES, RUNTIMES INTERFACE
General Mode:
Low - 9 Lumens – 71 Hours
Medium - 50 Lumens – 13 Hours
High - 105 Lumens – 5 Hours
SOS
Turbo mode:
Turbo - 205 Lumens – 2 Hours
Strobe
Fenix is a little like Jimmy Hendrix: Jimmy showed us what to do with six cords and a whammy bar, while Fenix showed us what to do with a reverse clicky and a bezel. The difference is anybody can use a Fenix flashlight with just one hand and a lot less practice. Even if you stick with only one move, a Fenix flashlight is still very usable and you won't hurt your neighbour's ears. You might annoy them and hurt their eyes though, but only if you do it on purpose or have no idea what you're handling to start with. A high intensity flashlight should always be handled like a weapon and with respect, both like and unlike Jimmy handled his guitars on the stage.
The LD/PD series flashlights all have the same interface, which has come to be known in the flashlight community as the "Fenix interface." Basically, the whole thing has been split into two modes accessible with a slight head twist:
General Mode (unscrew the head slightly to access)
Turbo Mode (screw the head in completely for access)
Each of these modes have at least two outputs. They start in low output for general mode or turbo output for turbo mode– the highest continuous output. Cycling is done in the order stated above and will go back to the first output for that mode in an endless loop. Switching outputs is achieved by half-pressing the switch (without clicking it off) for less than two seconds. Alternately, clicking the switch off and on within two seconds will achieve the same result.
The spacing in between outputs is very even to the eye and gives the impression you're adding the same amount of light at each click/turn even if, in fact, you're pretty much doubling it.
The low mode of 9 lumens is still a lot of light when working in complete darkness and I have used for hiking quite a bit. The 9 lumens on here actually made my 5 year old first hiking light look like an old piece of junk from the first war. I still wish there was a lower setting on here, but experience has thought me that too many modes on one button can become confusing on occasion, even to experts like me. Four different modes on one button seems to be the maximum that is reasonably manageable when you have other things on your mind. I found a different way to get a lower output by modifying a filter adaptor and might share that on a different thread if I find the time.
I think what makes this type of interface so popular is the fact that the two most important modes – high and low – are readily accessible without fumbling. It imitates tactical interfaces in a way, but gives you more options for the times when you are not under the impression you're facing a bear or a skunk (or just want to know what time it is).
RUNTIMES
Even though I had originally bought my L2D to have something with pure power, I have used it on low or medium most of the time since it was intended as a camping/hiking light rather than a work light. I remember being surprised that I had never changed the batteries after two consecutive summers of use on the same Alkaline cells. The LD20 has similar but longer runtimes except on turbo, so I am not expecting anyone to complain about having to change their batteries too often. Fenix does recommend the use of NiMh rechargeable batteries and states that the use of alkalines will result in lower runtimes.
INTENSITY
The first time I turned on an L2D I laughed with joy at how much light came out of such a small thing. The hilarious effects have subsided over time, especially that I now own much brighter and more expensive flashlights, but I can say that turning on the LD20 the first time did put a smile on my face (perhaps I should have taken a picture of my cousin's face when he tried it for the first time, since he had a big smile too) It is almost as bright as my PD30 R2 (225 lumens), but at these intensities you need a good eye to see a difference at all with such a small gap.
I have brought my L2D at work and can honestly say that the turbo mode is too much light for close-up applications. Fortunately, there are other output settings, and these are very efficient to work with. This is a very usable flashlight for both work and outdoor activities.
REGULATION AND HEAT DISSIPATION
Regulation is of the same quality as on any other Fenix flashlights: the best there is. The LD20 flashlight will give you an equal amount of light for as long as your battery can endure it. When that point is reached, the output will drop to the next lower level. This will happen for each intensity level until your battery can only power the low mode. On the L2D, the lowest mode can last for what seems like an eternity even on drained batteries that won't even power up a remote control. I remember being sick and tired of trying to drain my old batteries and getting rid of them even if I could still use my flashlight. It will eventually shut off completely, but if you haven't found some spare batteries yet, you'll really need to do something else by then (like eat, sleep, etc.)
Fenix seems to have dropped the warning line they used to include in the instructions about not running the light in turbo mode more than 10 or 15 minutes. Either heat dissipation is better now or no one must have successfully harmed a flashlight running it in turbo for a long period of time, so why bother. I think it was more of a precaution than anything else, since people will use any given product in a variety of environments.
STROBES AND SOS
The SOS beacon seems to have the same intensity as high output mode and the Strobe corresponds with turbo output. There are no stated runtimes for these, but they normally use less energy than a constant output of the same intensity, so should last for a while.
I have never had a real life need for those myself, aside annoying people (and the strobe is great at that!) There has been recent demand in the flashlight community to hide these modes, but they are still here on the LD20. These are fairly hidden on this type of interface, so why even bother when the other half of the community complains when these options disappear?
I have never heard or read of anyone using SOS mode for an emergency, but I like to know it is accessible since there is no momentary on function on this flashlight, making it impractical for morse code.
I have read one or two stories of people using a strobing flashlight to deter an angry dog with no effect. I also have read one or two stories of people using a bright flashlight with success to stop an angry dog in its tracks. Whether any of these is true or not, the strobe on this flashlight is fast enough so you can still see what you're doing and pull your bear spray out just the same. I do know that I wouldn't want that it in my face while I am fighting, so it can be used as a distraction, even if only a mild one on some subjects. It can also be used to get attention really fast and probably would do that better on the road side than a constant light.
BEAM PATTERN
My closet door with some clutter in the shadow. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture on a normal length of wall
I was a little surprised to see that despite a lot of noise about so many R4 LED flashlights having a wider hotspot, this one has the same hotspot size as its ancestor. On top of that, the hotspot is more defined on the LD20 with the smooth reflector than on the L2D which had an orange peel textured reflector. I think the reflector was made a little longer to preserve the original spot/spill size ratio.
There is a nice transitioning corona around the spot that gives the impression of a wider central beam when lighting normal objects rather than a white wall. I personally find this very pleasant as it kills the abrupt contrast line between spot and spill.
Some people have reported having a mild to very noticeable "donut hole" in the center of the spot, where there is a darker area. In some cases, users have said that it was even more noticeable at a distance of 5 feet or more. I have not seen this myself and cannot comment on this issue. I tend to think that this does not really affect the usability of the light, since none of them actually returned their light for an exchange. All I can say about this is that on my sample, the LED is not really centered and I do not see this at all. I can however say that - on this sample - the corona is ever so slightly brighter than the spot itself, but you cannot see the difference when illuminating anything other than a white wall.
I tried something new here, by using a partly exposed X-ray film as a filter, we can see the pattern very well. The vertical bar on the left and the dark spot on the lower part are defects in the film.
usability
None of the levels show any sign of PWM. For those who wonder, PWM means Pulse Width Modulation and is used as a means to send less power on many applications, including LED's. When using PWM on flashlights, this could create a sense of a fast strobe and is annoying to a lot of people. Fenix understands this and they do a good job of avoiding this type of situation.
RELIABILITY
There is not much to mention here, but I thought a good review should at least mention test results on the built quality.
I've done some manipulation testing to see if there was any undesirable play in the threads by pushing the head sideways and the light stayed on without a flicker. I've played with the switch, trying to get it not to click or switch modes by pressing as much on the sides as possible and it still worked every time. This is standard built quality for Fenix, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
There are no inductor sound (high pitch whine) audible on the sample I have tested.
ACCESSORIES - HOLSTER
HOLSTER
The included holster is made of nylon, has a flap that closed with Velcro and two belt loops. One of the belt loops is permanent, so you can pass it onto your belt and be confident the holster will stay there, while the outer loop is held by Velcro, allowing you to pass it around your belt while fully clothed. The flashlight will not fit inside the holster as deep as it probably should if you leave the clip on, so you might want to settle for one carrying option or the other.
While I like the double belt loop design, I miss the earlier design of the holster, which had elastic sides. With the new holster design, it can be a little tricky to put your flashlight in as it sometimes tend to collapse, starting and undesirable battle to find the hole, especially when you are busy working on something. Also, Velcro tends to become weaker with time and I already have a few holsters on which the flap won't stay closed securely. This was not a problem with the elastic sides, which held your light in securely without a flap. I wish Fenix would revert to the earlier design. I would even buy a separate holster just to have the elastic sides for my most frequently used lights.
LAYMAN'S OPINION
I lent this flashlight to various people who only own regular hardware store flashlights, and they all like the look and were impressed with the beam intensity. They also had a good laugh at the fact that there is a strobe mode, but I guess not everyone can see the advantage of this function without having an actual need for it.
I quickly showed them the different intensities before putting it in their hands. Everyone who owns a digital camera has been able to navigate through the modes, although it did take a minute or two for some of them to get a good grasp of it. The others (those who still have film cameras or none at all) have still had success with the interface, but generally took longer to get it right.
BEAM SHOTS
Built quality is only one thing. I know what the question on everybody's mind is: But, what is it good for in real life? I haven't had the LD20 for very long before giving it to its rightful owner, so I haven't had a chance to take as many beam shots as I would like, but I always make it a point to include as many outdoor pictures as possible.
BEAM PROFILE
I hate white wall shots, but this is a necessity to properly illustrate the beam profile
This shot is a little underexposed to show the beam profile appropriately
BEAM INTENSITY
One of the first things I do when I have a new lights in my hands is to put batteries in it and turn it on. The most extreme test for a flashlight is to see if it is strong enough to at least show something in very bright ambient lighting. I'll let you judge for yourself
I was standing at about 3-4 feet from this rock…
… but the diagonal distance from light to target is more like 5 feet
This one was taken from right on top at about 12-20 inches away
Don't know when these clams got there, but they're dry.
OUTDOOR SHOTS
The final Verdict and the answer to the question "what is this light good for?" Since a lot of people already own an L2D and some have asked if it was worth it to get the newer LD20, I took pictures of both.
SPILL TESTING
Reference picture:
I couldn't see much more than this on the ground
L2D
LD20.
Both pictures a very accurate to what I could see. I was aiming at about 15 feet ahead while holding the light a little higher than the camera.
TRAIL TESTING
Tree Covered Trail:
Exactly what I could see with everything turned off
L2D.
LD20
I am still struggling to get the settings right on my new camera, so the spill seen here is a good 50% dimmer than in real life for both lights, but the spot's brightness looks about right
THROW TESTING
I went to an open pathway to test the real usefulness of the LD20's throw
I could barely make out the path, despite the light pollution from the sky
L2D
This path was actually beaten by a small minivan the workers use to get to the field and back, so it's a lot wider than it appears on the picture.
LD20
Imagine a minivan at that distance (the rear bumper would take the whole width of the path) and you should get the picture.
COVER TESTING
It is always fun to push things to the limit, so let's say you had to recover you lunch or some piece of equipment from between the trees…
Fairly accurate reference picture
The L2D in action
LD20 in action. The tiniest tree in the back is close to 30 feet away from the objective.
When I see picture comparisons of old vs new emitter like this one, I certainly hope that people understand the real value of a larger hotspot and a nice smooth corona. I certainly believe that this is a very useful beam profile despite the fact that I tried to find the most difficult situation to it.
ALL IN ALL
THE GOOD
Uses very common batteries
Good runtime
Bright
Very useful beam profile
Simple interface with direct access to highest and lowest modes
Excellent Clip
Flashy modes somewhat out of the way
Solid and reliable
Can tail stand and is anti-roll
Portable
THE BAD
Tailstanding not as stable as it used to be
Very basic holster (then again, it's comes free)
Holster tends to collapse when empty.
THE RELATIVE
Switch access cut-out needs to be consciously aligned to do its job
Cool color rendition
RECOMMENDATIONS
I would like to have a lower low on my Fenix flashlights, and at the same time I wouldn't want to scroll through endless modes. Perhaps a TK12 type interface could be combined with the reverse clicky to give us permanent access to turbo, but different general mode ranges. If Fenix came out with something like that, I would have to bring out my wallet to purge it again, and would do so without thinking twice about it.
THE one thing I would like to see improve on the construction of most lights is that manufacturers should let us choose the switch profile. I would readily buy a separate tailcap for a lot of my lights so I could choose between good tail standing ability, protruding switch or some mix of both like it is the case here.
Other than that, I would also like to see a better holster with elastic sides. I personally wouldn't mind shelling out another 10 - 20$ for it, as long as I don't have to fight to get my light back in.
CONCLUSION
I have carried and used the LD20 for only a week, but can say with confidence that it is a very practical flashlight that covers pretty much all needs. The fact that it uses common AA batteries makes this a perfect entry light for those who don't want to take the plunge in more expensive lithium cells. If you decide to go that way, be warned that the flashlight bug will definitely bite you.
Testing the LD20 has made me fall in love with this classic AA powered light. Having one of these is definitely a good plus in a survival kit, since batteries can be found everywhere. I often hear the argument that there is only one brand of lights that can be trusted in case of emergencies, but this is absolutely false. Having owned Fenix flashlights for about three years now, and having put them through various situations, I can say that Fenix definitely makes reliable flashlights and I have a few Fenixes set aside for emergencies.
I have to admit that part of me wishes I hadn't seen the LD20 since I already own its older brother. The LD20's beam pattern and intensity is definitely an improvement over the classical L2D and now I feel like getting one for myself.
The new stated lumens are ANSI lumens, while the stated lumens that I had for the R4 version where, I believe, emitter lumens. To make it simple, even if the output numbers are not as impressive on the R5 version, it will definitely be brighter than the R4 version.
I hope you enjoy my review.
I have started collecting flashlights after discovering brighter and brighter portable lighting a few years back. It only started as a quest for a single flashlight that would turn the unpleasant experiences of having to look for campsites at dusk, but soon became a mad quest for THE perfect light. I already thought I had found just that when I discovered my first good quality LED flashlight and the same for the flashlight before that. Soon came another one and, even before that delivery came through, I discovered and ordered two L2D Q5's (ancestor of the LD20): one for my cousin and one for myself. This was to be our brightest flashlight at the time and it felt like first love.
Earlier this past summer, my cousin lost his beloved L2D while we where out to take some extreme beam shots for our own contentment and also because I needed some good shots for my TK45 review. I once asked him what would he replace his L2D with if he ever lost it. His answer was: "another L2D." Useless to say my cousin wanted a new one badly, so I ordered it for him. Since it has been in my possession for a little while before I gave it over to its rightful owner, I took the opportunity to review this classic.
I think a lot of flashaholics agree that the LD20 really is an all-time classic of the flashlight world: portable, versatile, plenty of modes, standard batteries and BRIGHT. It definitely is one of the best starter lights for someone who wants to find out what a real flashlight is like, but doesn't feel ready to invest in harder to come by batteries or exotic chargers.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Side Note: I have to go back in time to give my honest first impressions on this light. I have used my older L2D Q5 so much over the last two and a half years that it has become a normal piece of equipment to me; it's a little like that old hammer in the tool box that still gets the job done right and will likely last forever. If I could say that only one of my flashlights has been paid off, this is the one and the same goes for my cousin's lost L2D. I have no choice here but to direct my thoughts at comparing the L2D and the LD20 on some points. I might even confuse them on some occasions, but that's not a problem as they are basically the same flashlight even if there are some noticeable physical changes. I have to admit that all the memories brought up by this review are making me a little emotional and I even have goose bumps as I'm writing this. I have to warn you that I will share some memories during this review and might talk in the past tense a lot.
PACKAGING
To a flashaholic, opening the box is almost like having sex with a new partner for the first time. We get down to it faster every time around, tend to forget about the preliminaries, but it's always a new discovery. It's all part of the ritual. This time I held back and waited to get to my outdoor shooting location before opening anything. It was a little of a challenge since I received three new lights at the same time and wanted to take pictures of all three.
The LD20 comes in the same standard quality packaging most Fenix flashlights come in.
Included accessories:
Lanyard
2 Spare o-rings
Spare switch boot
Holster
Instruction pamphlet and warranty card
LOOK
Left: LD20 R4 Right: L2D Q5
I originally thought of the design of the L2D as very different from anything I had seen before. I did like it from the start and still like it now. The new look on the LD20 gives me the same impression again, even if it is very familiar.
The one thing I noticed right away where those ring features that look like cooling fins on the one part of the body that doesn't need cooling. It probably has more to do with renewing the style and I think it adds some futuristic type of look. There is a second functionality to these as we'll see in a moment.
HAND HOLD
The LD20 is a thinner flashlight that is very comfortable to hold. It is very well balanced and the head does stick out almost two inches from the hand. Some people like a wider and shorter body for a stronger grip, but the LD20's size is really in good proportions. For any non-initiated, this is a very small flashlight for the light that is puts out and is very impressive to see for the first time.
I remember calling my cousin while laughing my head off when I received our first L2D shipment. We had just spent over a hundred dollars each on flashlights in the same month (at thirty to forty bucks per light) and this one alone cost double any of the other flashlights and was totally justified… even more so than the other ones, honestly.
The design of the body takes advantage of the thinner AA batteries to include a good grip profile for cigar hold.
Holding it in a one-fingered cigar hold now makes the purpose of these new rings clearer: they help the grip a lot. (Sorry, it seems I have lost the picture for this)
Other Fenix owners won't need to hear that the lettering is very crisp and has been etched as well as painted on the head, insuring you will always have a way to identify the model and serial numbers. One difference I notice with the L2D is that when the head is set in general mode, the model number on the head is centered with the lettering on the body. There is very little play from this position to switch over to turbo mode, so it gives a nice reference to set your light in general mode and ready for some action.
Head set for general mode
Head screwed in completely for turbo mode
COMPARING WITH THE L2D
Other new features added to the LD20 are more aggressive knurling, built-in anti-roll ring, pocket clip, slightly crenulated head, switch access cut-out on the tail cap, smooth reflector, larger lanyard holes and square-cut threads. I will go over these in detail shortly.
Left to Right: PD30 R2, LD20 R4, L2D Q5
BUTTON AND OPERATION
The button on the LD20 is of the reverse clicky type. For the less informed, a reverse clickie is a switch that you must fully depress to switch the light on or off. When the light is on, a half-press lets you change the modes. This means that there is no momentary on feature on this flashlight, making it a personal use rather than a tactical use flashlight. The upside is that the different modes are all readily accessible.
The switch seems a little stiffer on this LD20 sample than on my older L2D and PD30 R2, but only so slightly. For all I know this could have more to do with the mileage my older lights have than anything else, or to variations due to construction.
The head is very easy to turn with just two fingers, so it is very easy to switch from general to turbo mode while holding it with one hand only.
POWER AND BATTERIES
Only 2 AA batteries are needed to operate the LD20, whether they are of Alkaline, NiMh or Lithium chemistry. With all these chemistries available, the LD20 can be used in a variety of temperature range or places away from the city and the more exotic batteries where only standard batteries can be found. This was my first basis for choosing the L2D over other more powerful flashlights. Had I not experienced the power of strong portable light, I would possibly still be using older less practical lights.
Some people are very concerned about batteries rattling around inside of their flashlights. My personal belief on this is that any flashlight containing two or more batteries that does not have a special carrier will most likely have at least a little bit of a battery rattle. Working with technology I know that all things are not created equal, so battery diameter is a variable. As a responsible entity, a flashlight manufacturer must take into account this variation and allow at least some clearance just in case. That being said, I did shake the LD20 with Rayovac NiMh Hybrid rechargeables inside of it to discover that I could barely hear any rattling at all when shaking the light hard. This is likely bound to some variations with different batteries.
CONSTRUCTION
BODY
The body is sealed by an o-ring on each end, to insure waterproofing to IPX-8 standard. Although a lot of people preach very regular lubrication of these o-rings, I have lubricated mine only once a year with no ill effect so far. We also have used L2D's and PD30's in pouring rain for hours with no problems whatsoever, so I'm confident about the consistency of the Fenix built quality on weatherproofing.
Head side of the body tube
Tail side of the body tube
The body on here is surprisingly thick. There is an obvious weaker point around the middle, but this part is shorter than on the previous versions and most likely at least as thick as the PD30's battery tube.
Body threads here the head screws in. Well lubed threads and o-rings right out of the box on this sample.
Fenix has finally converted over to square cut threads. I never had an issue in the past with standard threads, but a lot of people boast that square cut threads are stronger and more resistant. I think they are mainly smoother to work and easier to clean and these will require some cleaning every now and then to insure good conductivity, just as any other aluminum flashlight. The O-rings will require a little lubrication as well to prevent wear from friction with the other parts or just plain drying out.
Anodized threads for the tail cap.
The back end of the tube has anodized threads, allowing a locking out of the light to prevent it to accidentally turn on by simply unscrewing the tail cap. A very small amount of travel is needed to cut the contact, even less than one eighth of a turn, turning this flashlight into a potential twistie, especially that the tail cap is very easy to turn.
HEAD PLAYING LEGO
I do not have specs on the voltage limits of this light. Knowing Fenix, it is probably not the same head used on the PD30. Try mix-matching at your own risk. I did install my PD30 R2 head on my L2D Q5 body and could only get low mode, so the circuit design is definitely too different for direct compatibility with anything that runs on a different battery voltage and you might burn the LED when mix-matching parts of a higher capacity battery tube with a lower capacity flashlight head. A little bit of knowledge can go a long way here and I do not have all the necessary data. Keep in mind that the newer square cut threads mean that you will not be able to mix parts with older Fenix flashlights.
I can however confirm that it is compatible with the PD20 R2 I have in my possession and have gotten very similar results when exchanging the heads. The LD20 head is most certainly designed for a 3.0 volt supply (so is the PD20 R2 head), so running the LD20 on a single RCR123 battery (3.7 volts) did override the boost type regulation circuit. It basically works the same as my PD20 on a single RCR123 battery: on high all the time.
Slight crenellation of the head.
This does not look like a strike bezel at all. I believe the point was to let you know if you left the light on when leaving it in a head stand and it has the secondary advantage of letting out some useful light, but less aggressive for the eyes than when tail standing. It makes a nice night light and does have some interesting advantages for camping that I have not had a chance to try out so far.
One feature that has been a constant since the R2 series: built-in anti-roll ring with flat sides. I cannot comment much on any changes over the time but I did observe that my PD30R2 has four flat sides, while the LD20 R4 has five. This can only mean it is not quite as stable. I do have a preference for the four sided feature of my PD30 which is very stable but, sine I'm not willing to be in charge of the clip removal (hey, not my light!), I cannot really confirm I am right in thinking there should be that much difference in stability.
It might have been nice to have some knurling on the round part of the ring to help turning the head when operating the light with just one hand, even though it is not very likely to be something most people will do. My personal experience has been that whenever I needed to switch to or from turbo mode, it was only a temporary thing for a few seconds. Also, knurling on this part of the light could mean it's easier to scratch your nice dinner table. It really comes to a pro versus con dilemma and I think this light was designed with the safer option in mind which seems to be a constant for Fenix.
The standard Fenix LD/PD series accessories all fit on this head. I prefer not to comment on these here, as this is a flashlight review, not an accessory review. I might review the Fenix accessories sometime in the future.
THE BUSINESS END : LED AND REFLECTOR
XPG R4 LED (The newer edition has the R5, by the way)
On this sample, the LED is definitely a little off-center with absolutely no visible effect to the beam pattern. LED size certainly has an influence over this, but quite possibly reflector quality as well.
The smooth reflector has no ill effect over the beam quality. Smaller LED's seem to make for a better beam pattern, or Fenix has learned something about reflector design. Either way, smooth reflectors allow for better throw and we'll see how much of an improvement there has been since the L2D Q5 in the beam shot section.
I did notice that the reflector on the LD20 seems a little deeper than the one on my L2D and PD30 R2. This should make some small difference in the beam pattern and throw, but we'll see about that in time.
The spectrum color on this sample is on the cool side like most LED flashlights. Even if this LD20 sample has a cooler color on a white wall than my first love, the L2D, color rendition is exactly the same to my eyes on all the colored objects I've illuminated.
TAILCAP SWITCH
Due to the switch access cut-outs, the LD20 has lost a little stability for tail standing since the older days of fully flat cap ends. It still does tail stand nicely, but you need a very stable surface when compared with the older version. The positive side of this is that the switch is more accessible, provided you line up the cut-out with your thumb first.. I remember my cousin complaining about tendonitis in his thumb from playing with his L2D too much, so he had turned to his PD30 R2 for a while. I must recon he is not a good example when it comes to using flashlights for a normal purpose.
One of the things that bothered me was that the tail cap cutouts seemed badly aligned while everything else is. I had the impression that either Fenix or I missed something. Taking the flashlight in my hand, ready for operation, I realized that it was no mistake:
When your fingers touch the anodization of the side and then fold them for a normal hold, the cutout will align perfectly for your thumb… PURE GENIOUS! These guys must try their lights out before sending in the production request. Fenix definitely understands the craving and the reasons for precision. If someone would go back in time to tell me ten years ago about such precision on flashlight build, I certainly would have called an ambulance for them. Ten years later I'm raving about it in my review! You have to admit it is a very nice feature, since grabbing a flashlight is likely to be something you'll be doing in the dark… As a side-note, it works equally well for left-handers, but with the difference that your fingers will be touching the flat part of the battery tube.
Hmmm… small scratches. Won't affect the functionality, though, and certainly means that someone made sure it was on real tight… or it was Friday and his buddies where waiting at the pub.
The switch assembly design is the same Fenix has always used. If it works, why change it? The access to the switch is very easy if you ever need to change it (my cousin didn't kill his before losing it, so it is doubtful you'll ever have to): Use a pair of long-nosed pliers and insert them into the small holes on the retainer ring and turn counter-clockwise.
The only reason I mention this here is that I have heard and seen instances where the retainer ring became just a bit loose and the flashlight wouldn't turn on. Make sure it is screwed in tight and all threads and contact points are clean, this has solved all my problems so far – well, ok, changing the batteries when they are dead and taking your finger off the lens also helps.
One wide lanyard hole is available on each side for easy attachment. I do recommend the use of a lanyard on rough terrain as you will probably not feel like going down a steep hill with your own flashlight blinding you as it rolls down (happened to me once, but I had plenty of backup light to fight back)
CLIP
The LD20 comes with a sturdy clip already attached.
The biggest innovation for the recent Fenix LD/PD series flashlights is the pocket clip. It wasn't up to me to remove this clip as this is not mine. I did however buy a PD20 which has the same clip design, only smaller, and removed that one.
I can say that this is a very strong and sturdy clip with plenty of mid-length clearance and the tip sits tight against the body. It will definitely keep your precious light firmly in place. It is so tight that the clearance is a must to help spread it open when clipping the flashlight to a pocket or your belt. You can wear inside or outside your pocket, it will not come off on its own. The head sticks out far enough from your pocket that it is very accessible and easy to grab and comes off easily enough so you won't pull a wedgie on yourself. Clipping it to a belt is also a good place to keep it secured and can be done with one hand. The bottom part of the clip will stay tight against an average sized belt, so the flashlight will not travel around.
I was never really liked clips, but this design has me thinking twice about my position. Removing the clip requires a little effort and you will notice that it will not come off on it's own by accident. The only negative point here is that I did see a little mark on my PD20's finish after removing the clip. Make sure you have a very good grip and pull evenly. You do have to look for the mark on my work light in order to see it, though, but I thought that some would prefer to have a heads up.
The clip does have lips that will help prevent scratches and make it easier to reinsert on the body. I have not tried this out myself on the LD20 unfortunately, but it is much easier to reinsert than to remove on my PD20, so I expect the same to be true here.
The body was designed to include a small recess for the clip to stay in place. The only way it could move is by turning around the body. Fenix opted for a head side clip, keeping the lens out of your pocket and away from scratches. Some will find it a disappointment to learn that there is only one way to install this clip. Even though I do not use clips myself, I would have liked to see the ring features on the tail end have an extra purpose and allow for a bezel-down carry, which would mean the flashlight comes off in a ready to use position.
I almost forgot to mention that the clip is also a very good anti-roll accessory. It does not feel unpleasant at all when handling the LD20 and even adds a little more body size to grip.
KNURLING
It seems that Fenix went lighter on the knurling distribution on this one when compared to other recent LD/PD series flashlights, as our little friend seems to point out here.
The knurling is placed on the parts that count the most, except for the head. I did mention something about knurling on the anti-roll ring, but a little knurling in front of the ring might have been nice, while protecting the family table. It is not a must, however, since the head is very easy to turn and the flat sides help too.
The rhombic knurling is much more present and much more aggressive than on past production models. It fells smooth for something that also gives such a good grip. I did test it under running water and can confirm that it does it's job in wet conditions.
FINISH
I cannot say anything different than I have in my other reviews. The finish is very nice and even all over. I cannot see any blemishes anywhere and there is no visible difference at all from one part to another. I have found that dropping my Fenix lights on gravel will often leave a mark or remove a small chip in the anodization, but every time.
There are no rough edges to be found anywhere on this flashlight, even on the clip. Despite that it is a little long, it is a comfortable pocket carry light; it might put some pressure on your leg when you sit or bend, but you will not have any scars on you at the end of the day.
MODES, RUNTIMES INTERFACE
General Mode:
Low - 9 Lumens – 71 Hours
Medium - 50 Lumens – 13 Hours
High - 105 Lumens – 5 Hours
SOS
Turbo mode:
Turbo - 205 Lumens – 2 Hours
Strobe
Fenix is a little like Jimmy Hendrix: Jimmy showed us what to do with six cords and a whammy bar, while Fenix showed us what to do with a reverse clicky and a bezel. The difference is anybody can use a Fenix flashlight with just one hand and a lot less practice. Even if you stick with only one move, a Fenix flashlight is still very usable and you won't hurt your neighbour's ears. You might annoy them and hurt their eyes though, but only if you do it on purpose or have no idea what you're handling to start with. A high intensity flashlight should always be handled like a weapon and with respect, both like and unlike Jimmy handled his guitars on the stage.
The LD/PD series flashlights all have the same interface, which has come to be known in the flashlight community as the "Fenix interface." Basically, the whole thing has been split into two modes accessible with a slight head twist:
General Mode (unscrew the head slightly to access)
Turbo Mode (screw the head in completely for access)
Each of these modes have at least two outputs. They start in low output for general mode or turbo output for turbo mode– the highest continuous output. Cycling is done in the order stated above and will go back to the first output for that mode in an endless loop. Switching outputs is achieved by half-pressing the switch (without clicking it off) for less than two seconds. Alternately, clicking the switch off and on within two seconds will achieve the same result.
The spacing in between outputs is very even to the eye and gives the impression you're adding the same amount of light at each click/turn even if, in fact, you're pretty much doubling it.
The low mode of 9 lumens is still a lot of light when working in complete darkness and I have used for hiking quite a bit. The 9 lumens on here actually made my 5 year old first hiking light look like an old piece of junk from the first war. I still wish there was a lower setting on here, but experience has thought me that too many modes on one button can become confusing on occasion, even to experts like me. Four different modes on one button seems to be the maximum that is reasonably manageable when you have other things on your mind. I found a different way to get a lower output by modifying a filter adaptor and might share that on a different thread if I find the time.
I think what makes this type of interface so popular is the fact that the two most important modes – high and low – are readily accessible without fumbling. It imitates tactical interfaces in a way, but gives you more options for the times when you are not under the impression you're facing a bear or a skunk (or just want to know what time it is).
RUNTIMES
Even though I had originally bought my L2D to have something with pure power, I have used it on low or medium most of the time since it was intended as a camping/hiking light rather than a work light. I remember being surprised that I had never changed the batteries after two consecutive summers of use on the same Alkaline cells. The LD20 has similar but longer runtimes except on turbo, so I am not expecting anyone to complain about having to change their batteries too often. Fenix does recommend the use of NiMh rechargeable batteries and states that the use of alkalines will result in lower runtimes.
INTENSITY
The first time I turned on an L2D I laughed with joy at how much light came out of such a small thing. The hilarious effects have subsided over time, especially that I now own much brighter and more expensive flashlights, but I can say that turning on the LD20 the first time did put a smile on my face (perhaps I should have taken a picture of my cousin's face when he tried it for the first time, since he had a big smile too) It is almost as bright as my PD30 R2 (225 lumens), but at these intensities you need a good eye to see a difference at all with such a small gap.
I have brought my L2D at work and can honestly say that the turbo mode is too much light for close-up applications. Fortunately, there are other output settings, and these are very efficient to work with. This is a very usable flashlight for both work and outdoor activities.
REGULATION AND HEAT DISSIPATION
Regulation is of the same quality as on any other Fenix flashlights: the best there is. The LD20 flashlight will give you an equal amount of light for as long as your battery can endure it. When that point is reached, the output will drop to the next lower level. This will happen for each intensity level until your battery can only power the low mode. On the L2D, the lowest mode can last for what seems like an eternity even on drained batteries that won't even power up a remote control. I remember being sick and tired of trying to drain my old batteries and getting rid of them even if I could still use my flashlight. It will eventually shut off completely, but if you haven't found some spare batteries yet, you'll really need to do something else by then (like eat, sleep, etc.)
Fenix seems to have dropped the warning line they used to include in the instructions about not running the light in turbo mode more than 10 or 15 minutes. Either heat dissipation is better now or no one must have successfully harmed a flashlight running it in turbo for a long period of time, so why bother. I think it was more of a precaution than anything else, since people will use any given product in a variety of environments.
STROBES AND SOS
The SOS beacon seems to have the same intensity as high output mode and the Strobe corresponds with turbo output. There are no stated runtimes for these, but they normally use less energy than a constant output of the same intensity, so should last for a while.
I have never had a real life need for those myself, aside annoying people (and the strobe is great at that!) There has been recent demand in the flashlight community to hide these modes, but they are still here on the LD20. These are fairly hidden on this type of interface, so why even bother when the other half of the community complains when these options disappear?
I have never heard or read of anyone using SOS mode for an emergency, but I like to know it is accessible since there is no momentary on function on this flashlight, making it impractical for morse code.
I have read one or two stories of people using a strobing flashlight to deter an angry dog with no effect. I also have read one or two stories of people using a bright flashlight with success to stop an angry dog in its tracks. Whether any of these is true or not, the strobe on this flashlight is fast enough so you can still see what you're doing and pull your bear spray out just the same. I do know that I wouldn't want that it in my face while I am fighting, so it can be used as a distraction, even if only a mild one on some subjects. It can also be used to get attention really fast and probably would do that better on the road side than a constant light.
BEAM PATTERN
My closet door with some clutter in the shadow. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture on a normal length of wall
I was a little surprised to see that despite a lot of noise about so many R4 LED flashlights having a wider hotspot, this one has the same hotspot size as its ancestor. On top of that, the hotspot is more defined on the LD20 with the smooth reflector than on the L2D which had an orange peel textured reflector. I think the reflector was made a little longer to preserve the original spot/spill size ratio.
There is a nice transitioning corona around the spot that gives the impression of a wider central beam when lighting normal objects rather than a white wall. I personally find this very pleasant as it kills the abrupt contrast line between spot and spill.
Some people have reported having a mild to very noticeable "donut hole" in the center of the spot, where there is a darker area. In some cases, users have said that it was even more noticeable at a distance of 5 feet or more. I have not seen this myself and cannot comment on this issue. I tend to think that this does not really affect the usability of the light, since none of them actually returned their light for an exchange. All I can say about this is that on my sample, the LED is not really centered and I do not see this at all. I can however say that - on this sample - the corona is ever so slightly brighter than the spot itself, but you cannot see the difference when illuminating anything other than a white wall.
I tried something new here, by using a partly exposed X-ray film as a filter, we can see the pattern very well. The vertical bar on the left and the dark spot on the lower part are defects in the film.
usability
None of the levels show any sign of PWM. For those who wonder, PWM means Pulse Width Modulation and is used as a means to send less power on many applications, including LED's. When using PWM on flashlights, this could create a sense of a fast strobe and is annoying to a lot of people. Fenix understands this and they do a good job of avoiding this type of situation.
RELIABILITY
There is not much to mention here, but I thought a good review should at least mention test results on the built quality.
I've done some manipulation testing to see if there was any undesirable play in the threads by pushing the head sideways and the light stayed on without a flicker. I've played with the switch, trying to get it not to click or switch modes by pressing as much on the sides as possible and it still worked every time. This is standard built quality for Fenix, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
There are no inductor sound (high pitch whine) audible on the sample I have tested.
ACCESSORIES - HOLSTER
HOLSTER
The included holster is made of nylon, has a flap that closed with Velcro and two belt loops. One of the belt loops is permanent, so you can pass it onto your belt and be confident the holster will stay there, while the outer loop is held by Velcro, allowing you to pass it around your belt while fully clothed. The flashlight will not fit inside the holster as deep as it probably should if you leave the clip on, so you might want to settle for one carrying option or the other.
While I like the double belt loop design, I miss the earlier design of the holster, which had elastic sides. With the new holster design, it can be a little tricky to put your flashlight in as it sometimes tend to collapse, starting and undesirable battle to find the hole, especially when you are busy working on something. Also, Velcro tends to become weaker with time and I already have a few holsters on which the flap won't stay closed securely. This was not a problem with the elastic sides, which held your light in securely without a flap. I wish Fenix would revert to the earlier design. I would even buy a separate holster just to have the elastic sides for my most frequently used lights.
LAYMAN'S OPINION
I lent this flashlight to various people who only own regular hardware store flashlights, and they all like the look and were impressed with the beam intensity. They also had a good laugh at the fact that there is a strobe mode, but I guess not everyone can see the advantage of this function without having an actual need for it.
I quickly showed them the different intensities before putting it in their hands. Everyone who owns a digital camera has been able to navigate through the modes, although it did take a minute or two for some of them to get a good grasp of it. The others (those who still have film cameras or none at all) have still had success with the interface, but generally took longer to get it right.
BEAM SHOTS
Built quality is only one thing. I know what the question on everybody's mind is: But, what is it good for in real life? I haven't had the LD20 for very long before giving it to its rightful owner, so I haven't had a chance to take as many beam shots as I would like, but I always make it a point to include as many outdoor pictures as possible.
BEAM PROFILE
I hate white wall shots, but this is a necessity to properly illustrate the beam profile
This shot is a little underexposed to show the beam profile appropriately
BEAM INTENSITY
One of the first things I do when I have a new lights in my hands is to put batteries in it and turn it on. The most extreme test for a flashlight is to see if it is strong enough to at least show something in very bright ambient lighting. I'll let you judge for yourself
I was standing at about 3-4 feet from this rock…
This one was taken from right on top at about 12-20 inches away
Don't know when these clams got there, but they're dry.
OUTDOOR SHOTS
The final Verdict and the answer to the question "what is this light good for?" Since a lot of people already own an L2D and some have asked if it was worth it to get the newer LD20, I took pictures of both.
SPILL TESTING
Reference picture:
I couldn't see much more than this on the ground
L2D
LD20.
Both pictures a very accurate to what I could see. I was aiming at about 15 feet ahead while holding the light a little higher than the camera.
TRAIL TESTING
Tree Covered Trail:
Exactly what I could see with everything turned off
L2D.
LD20
I am still struggling to get the settings right on my new camera, so the spill seen here is a good 50% dimmer than in real life for both lights, but the spot's brightness looks about right
THROW TESTING
I went to an open pathway to test the real usefulness of the LD20's throw
I could barely make out the path, despite the light pollution from the sky
L2D
This path was actually beaten by a small minivan the workers use to get to the field and back, so it's a lot wider than it appears on the picture.
LD20
Imagine a minivan at that distance (the rear bumper would take the whole width of the path) and you should get the picture.
COVER TESTING
It is always fun to push things to the limit, so let's say you had to recover you lunch or some piece of equipment from between the trees…
Fairly accurate reference picture
The L2D in action
LD20 in action. The tiniest tree in the back is close to 30 feet away from the objective.
When I see picture comparisons of old vs new emitter like this one, I certainly hope that people understand the real value of a larger hotspot and a nice smooth corona. I certainly believe that this is a very useful beam profile despite the fact that I tried to find the most difficult situation to it.
ALL IN ALL
THE GOOD
Uses very common batteries
Good runtime
Bright
Very useful beam profile
Simple interface with direct access to highest and lowest modes
Excellent Clip
Flashy modes somewhat out of the way
Solid and reliable
Can tail stand and is anti-roll
Portable
THE BAD
Tailstanding not as stable as it used to be
Very basic holster (then again, it's comes free)
Holster tends to collapse when empty.
THE RELATIVE
Switch access cut-out needs to be consciously aligned to do its job
Cool color rendition
RECOMMENDATIONS
I would like to have a lower low on my Fenix flashlights, and at the same time I wouldn't want to scroll through endless modes. Perhaps a TK12 type interface could be combined with the reverse clicky to give us permanent access to turbo, but different general mode ranges. If Fenix came out with something like that, I would have to bring out my wallet to purge it again, and would do so without thinking twice about it.
THE one thing I would like to see improve on the construction of most lights is that manufacturers should let us choose the switch profile. I would readily buy a separate tailcap for a lot of my lights so I could choose between good tail standing ability, protruding switch or some mix of both like it is the case here.
Other than that, I would also like to see a better holster with elastic sides. I personally wouldn't mind shelling out another 10 - 20$ for it, as long as I don't have to fight to get my light back in.
CONCLUSION
I have carried and used the LD20 for only a week, but can say with confidence that it is a very practical flashlight that covers pretty much all needs. The fact that it uses common AA batteries makes this a perfect entry light for those who don't want to take the plunge in more expensive lithium cells. If you decide to go that way, be warned that the flashlight bug will definitely bite you.
Testing the LD20 has made me fall in love with this classic AA powered light. Having one of these is definitely a good plus in a survival kit, since batteries can be found everywhere. I often hear the argument that there is only one brand of lights that can be trusted in case of emergencies, but this is absolutely false. Having owned Fenix flashlights for about three years now, and having put them through various situations, I can say that Fenix definitely makes reliable flashlights and I have a few Fenixes set aside for emergencies.
I have to admit that part of me wishes I hadn't seen the LD20 since I already own its older brother. The LD20's beam pattern and intensity is definitely an improvement over the classical L2D and now I feel like getting one for myself.
