Elektrolumens EDC XM-L

recDNA

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I wonder what folks could share about their experiences with Elektrolumens EDC? I think the last version was MC-E but it will be basically the same flashlight but with XM-L and a 6 degree (narrower) hotspot. It will be driven between 3-4 amps with single 18560 and I believe it is single mode twisty with momentary on button.

It sounds blazin and is supposed to be heatsinked well enough for extended use.

Can anyone tell me about their past experience with the MC-E version of this product? I don't think anybody has the XM-L model yet. It sounds tempting to me.
 

Brasso

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I'm not familiar with the XML version, but I had the MCE version. It was bright! The only two negatives to me was the weight, it was heavy with that solid brass heat sink, and it wasn't the most water proof design. A bit too big for pocket carry. If he slims it down a bit and seals the lens better, it would be really nice.
 

recDNA

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I think the size is the same...still it is smaller than the g5 and has a LOT more output than the xml version of g5.

Good tip about poor waterproofing. If I get the edc I have plenty of other lights that could do rainy day duty.
I'm willing to tolerate the added weight if the heat sinking can provide over 15 minutes super high output without some cheezy step down to lower output "feature".

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etherealshade

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The MC-E version is direct drive, so there is no step-down; it just loses a few lumens as the heatsink saturates with heat. I would assume the XM-L is direct drive as well. I've got a 5A MCE version, which fires up around 4ish amps at the tailcap, but it can go ages without losing much appreciable brightness. As Brasso said, the waterproofing is pretty minimal; although I've fixed that on the head end with a bit of silicone sealant.
 

batvette

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Hmmm... I was on the fence a couple months back when the last batch of MC-E's was around the corner. Bought a solarforce L2 w/P7 to tide me over, after dropping it a dozen times hard the driver broke and said what the hell and wired it DD and now it's a real screamer. I have two little friends from Wayne, (both non functional and had numerous issues all along)the low fi version as well as the second SSC-P4 version, despite those issues, based on the build quality was going to buy an EDC MC-E as I am largely becoming disgusted at the number of Asian lights with melted drive circuits my junk drawer is filled with.
However now I have a solid host with a DD'd P7, (will have to see how long it lasts, did the aluminum can wrappie thing) don't know that I can justify 3.5 times the money for an EDC XML. I am certainly not bashing the product, but in this toilet economy it's hard to want to spend that much more for a product with flaws of its own, so I'm just chiming in with an "I was gonna but did something else and this is how it worked out so I can't say I'd go that route right now".
I think if I knew $129 spent today would see a light working after 2-3 years of mild abuse VS the average 6 months I'd see from fiddly Asian counterparts I'd say hell yeah. However the solarforce abortion in my pocket now is essentially the same, for about $40, with maybe inferior heatsinking, maybe not. Bet some paste in that aluminum stripping would close the gap?
As for the waterproofing I don't have the EDC to compare but the LF had to be kept high and dry, what's the weak point of an L2? Tailcap switch?
 

Sh3ngLong

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Are there any beamshot comparisons between the EDC XM-L and another XM-L light of another brand? I've seen the screenshot and video that Wayne posted, but I'm more interested in seeing comparisons between other XM-L lights such as the TK35 and M3C4.
 

recDNA

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Do you really think it is fair to compare lights with twice the reflector size and battery capacity? A fairer comparison would be the Thrunite Scorpion or Maelstrom X7

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Dude Dudeson

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I'm willing to tolerate the added weight if the heat sinking can provide over 15 minutes super high output without some cheezy step down to lower output "feature".

I'm STILL wondering where all the CPF people who proclaimed "Oh, but just give me the full potential of the rig, let my light SHINE at FULL POWER even if it has to be "backthrottled" after a few minutes due to heat, if I can just have my "1000 lumens in a small light" for just a FEW minutes, yes, give me a "BURST MODE".......... well what happened to them?

I kind of liked the idea, and I'm kind of liking seeing it implemented in some lights, but that's just me and my CPF side talking...
 

LichtAn!

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Hmmm... I was on the fence a couple months back when the last batch of MC-E's was around the corner. Bought a solarforce L2 w/P7 to tide me over, after dropping it a dozen times hard the driver broke and said what the hell and wired it DD and now it's a real screamer. I have two little friends from Wayne, (both non functional and had numerous issues all along)the low fi version as well as the second SSC-P4 version, despite those issues, based on the build quality was going to buy an EDC MC-E as I am largely becoming disgusted at the number of Asian lights with melted drive circuits my junk drawer is filled with.
However now I have a solid host with a DD'd P7, (will have to see how long it lasts, did the aluminum can wrappie thing) don't know that I can justify 3.5 times the money for an EDC XML. I am certainly not bashing the product, but in this toilet economy it's hard to want to spend that much more for a product with flaws of its own, so I'm just chiming in with an "I was gonna but did something else and this is how it worked out so I can't say I'd go that route right now".
I think if I knew $129 spent today would see a light working after 2-3 years of mild abuse VS the average 6 months I'd see from fiddly Asian counterparts I'd say hell yeah. However the solarforce abortion in my pocket now is essentially the same, for about $40, with maybe inferior heatsinking, maybe not. Bet some paste in that aluminum stripping would close the gap?
As for the waterproofing I don't have the EDC to compare but the LF had to be kept high and dry, what's the weak point of an L2? Tailcap switch?

That doesn't really sound positive for Wayne's products. Is it such a big deal to improve the waterproofness?
 

LEDninja

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I had the EDC-P7. It has a 27 mm normal reflector giving the normal spot/throw beam.
The EDC-MCE had a 20 mm faceted boom reflector making it all flood.
The EDC-XML uses a narrow beam optic making it all spot.

The EDCs run HOT. Too hot to hold hot in extended use.
Most 1*18650 chinese lights run at 2A which is better for an extended hold. A few are DD with PWM low levels and can be overdriven. (A couple of Aurora SST-50s were measured at 4A & 5A)

The Elektrolumens lights use a pushbutton for momentary. For constant light output screw the tailcap in which pushes the button for you. If you push the button the gap between the button and the tailcap may let water in. In off mode or with the tailcap screwed in there is no gap and the light is at least rain resistant.
A word of warning. The spring/button assembly does not have a retaining ring to hold the guts in. Always hold the tailcap with the spring facing up when changing batteries!
My EDC-P7 has an O-ring at the lens.

The EDC-XML has a .1 ohms 20 watt resistor to compensate for the low Vf of the LED.

-

I also have 2 Little Friends. The SSC-P4 one is dead. The Luxeon one still works.
 
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recDNA

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I'm STILL wondering where all the CPF people who proclaimed "Oh, but just give me the full potential of the rig, let my light SHINE at FULL POWER even if it has to be "backthrottled" after a few minutes due to heat, if I can just have my "1000 lumens in a small light" for just a FEW minutes, yes, give me a "BURST MODE".......... well what happened to them?

I kind of liked the idea, and I'm kind of liking seeing it implemented in some lights, but that's just me and my CPF side talking...

Maybe some of us prefer to "backthrottle" it ourselves (turning to lower power) using our own judgement rather than an automatic loss of output when least convenient?

I worry that manufacturers may build in the "feature" not because it is essential for us but to protect them from warranted returns they get stuck paying for. They also have to be concerned about users without any knowledge about the dangers of Li Ion who might just leave the light on until poof.

I'm unusual because in many cases I prefer direct drive to regulation. I like to be warned about a weak battery by a slow drop in output rather than a sudden drop from bright to "off". I like to be warned of heat as my hand gets hot rather than a built in shut down which may occur when not yet needed. Regulation is great if manufacturer puts in a low battery warning of some kind but few do.

I'm sure the majority of users here agree with YOU not me.

On the other hand I already have some "5 minutes til too hot" lights so if I can't get 15 straight minutes in high it isn't the flashlight for me to add to my collection.
 
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flashflood

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I'm STILL wondering where all the CPF people who proclaimed "Oh, but just give me the full potential of the rig, let my light SHINE at FULL POWER even if it has to be "backthrottled" after a few minutes due to heat, if I can just have my "1000 lumens in a small light" for just a FEW minutes, yes, give me a "BURST MODE".......... well what happened to them?

I for one am right here. :devil:
 

RyanA

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Great, another of Wayne lights that I need to buy!

20 watts would be a fairly large resistor though.
 

flashflood

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Great, another of Wayne lights that I need to buy!

20 watts would be a fairly large resistor though.

The issue would be where to dissipate those 20 watts, but it's not driven nearly that hard. Current in the EDC-XML is 4A, resistor is 0.1 ohms, so power dissipation is i^2*R = 1.6 watts. A more efficient buck driver would seem preferable, but 4A drivers may simply not be available or cost effective yet.
 

Rikr

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Elektro Lumens EDC

Does anyone have this? Was thinking about it and just wanted some input..Thanks
EDC-XML (EveryDay Carry), CREE XM-L LED, One 18650 Li-Ion, approx. 1000 Lumens!!!
Thanks Norm...
 
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