M951 to the 21st Century?

Okay, I'd like to bring an M951 up to date.

My choices seem to be either replacing the LU60 with same, replacing it with same followed by Dremel mods and a P60 dropin, replacing the LU60 and adding a KX4, or using a LM1/2 to attach an E-bezel.

I kind of like the idea of using the adapter collar from an LM1 to attach an LM2 head or a KX2C, though.

With just the mount and body, what would you add to make this a working light, and why?

C'mon, anybody know a good way to bump a weaponlight?

Hmmm....I know a few ways...

1) KX4
2) KL5/KL5A
3) U2 head with an A19 in the rear
4) Mod the LU60 and slap a Malkoff in there

Doesn't the Z44 bezel fit directly on?

If I'm not mistaken about that, then buy such a bezel or cannibal an old 6P, then put a Malkoff or a potted Nailbender module in it.

jellydonut said:

Doesn't the Z44 bezel fit directly on?

If I'm not mistaken about that, then buy such a bezel or cannibal an old 6P, then put a Malkoff or a potted Nailbender module in it.

Click to expand...

Malkoffs won't fit in the LU60 adapter with-out modifying it quite a bit (the LU60). Requires a bit a drilling/cutting/sanding.

angelofwar said:

Malkoffs won't fit in the LU60 adapter with-out modifying it quite a bit (the LU60). Requires a bit a drilling/cutting/sanding.

Click to expand...

Hmm, I've bored about four LU60s so far to fit Malkoffs and it's a fairly simple 15 minute operation on a lathe. The key point is that it's simple to do if you have the right tool. I can see someone trying to do this at home with a Dremel and some patience, though.

angelofwar said:

Hmmm....I know a few ways...
3) U2 head with an A19 in the rear

Click to expand...

Why add a third SF123A? Surely the U2 bezel only needs a pair of SF123As?


I'd say the KM3 Vampire model brings the M95 right up to date.

Size15's said:

Why add a third SF123A? Surely the U2 bezel only needs a pair of SF123As?

I'd say the KM3 Vampire model brings the M95 right up to date.

Click to expand...

Ack...you'r right Al...brain fart. I was thinking of the A21. After messing with all these SF parts, you start going cross-eyed.

Don't screw the U2 bezel on too tight otherwise the selector ring doesn't rotate. At least that's a memory I have from LEGOing the combination for the photo years ago...

I was under the impression that Malkoffs will drop right into a M951 assuming you buy the spacer ring because of the M951's shock absorbing head. The Malkoff M60 + spacer ring drops right into my Scout M600B with the LU-60.

geisto said:

I was under the impression that Malkoffs will drop right into a M951 assuming you buy the spacer ring because of the M951's shock absorbing head. The Malkoff M60 + spacer ring drops right into my Scout M600B with the LU-60.

Click to expand...

The M95 uses the LU60.

The ScoutLight (M600) requires the LU60A.

I understand that the inside neck of the LU60 Lamp Module Adapter Collar is too narrow for the Malkoff drop-in.

Yep, the collar needs to be bored out to accept a Malkoff. Best option while keeping it "stock" would be to retrofit the M95x with either a P60L or a KX4-HA-Nat.

The M951 will fit a malkoff if you use the M2 shock absorbing head. The dropin will not seat properly in the LU60 adapter so the slack is taken up inside the head.

PCC is the nice guy who bored out my LU60 but I had him bore it more to fit my Kerberos dropin. Right now Im using the LU60 and a 6P defender head on my 18650 stock bored DARPA PKEF body. I could use my U2 18650 body too.

You could use a Kroma, Milspec, U2, or Vampire head. If you use a Kroma head, you need to use a kroma tailcap.

But in all honesty, the M951's MH90 body is just big and heavy. I prefer the Scoutlight body. You are limited to E-series tailcaps but the weight makes up for it.

If you are really intent on upgrading the M951 then any of the suggestions previously mentioned will work.

I wondered where I left this thread.

Used M951 gear costs half as much as used M600 gear, sadly, or I'd have purchased a Scoutlight a while ago. Also, the LaRue quick-release mounts for the scout bodies go for $75 on eBay, and then I need a VME head.

I'll try a shock bezel forest, and see where that goes though!

I use mine every night here, just this week I put a 350 lumen P60 dropin in it and it works great, pm if you need more info

Varmit,
Which p60 did you use?
Dewayne
Ou

I am hoping to get an M951 body bored to accept 18650 battery. I will need the collar bored too, but am thinking of purchasing oveready LU60 adapter. Having a hard time getting the body bored.

saavedra13 said:

I am hoping to get an M951 body bored to accept 18650 battery. I will need the collar bored too, but am thinking of purchasing oveready LU60 adapter. Having a hard time getting the body bored.

Click to expand...

Sandpaper on a dowel.
Cut a dowel.
Wrap with enough duck tape to approximate 18mm.
Contact cement onto to the tape.
Run with cordless drill.
Takes a bit but it will eventually get done.

swampgator said:

Sandpaper on a dowel.
Cut a dowel.
Wrap with enough duck tape to approximate 18mm.
Contact cement onto to the tape.
Run with cordless drill.
Takes a bit but it will eventually get done.

Click to expand...

Wow great idea!!! I'm going to have to try this at some point.

Fireclaw18 said:

Wow great idea!!! I'm going to have to try this at some point.

Click to expand...

Almost done with a Z2. Start with course paper and work up. Takes awhile with a cordless drill but an electric will do it a bit faster.