new jetbeam rrt-0

hey guys, had to start my account back up since it was lost in that whole mess a few weeks ago. anyways, i just recieved a new rrt-0 with the infinite brightness ring. this is an awesome little light, bright as hell with the aa and the cr123. the only thing thats bugging me though is the button, so i was hoping i could get some feedback from some people who might have the same light. the button seems really spongy compared to all my other led lights. there is a good 5mm or more between the inside of the rubber boot and the switch, then there is almost no room what so ever to keep it on momentary before it clicks all the way on. are all jetbeams like this or is it an odd one out?

Mine is the same experience as yours with the new RRT-0. You'll just have to develop a more sensitive 'feel', to hold the momentary on. In all other respects, it's a teriffic light. By comparison to a similar light, a Sunwayman V10R; the click button needs more pressure to actuate. It feels firmer, and the momentary switch travel is longer. Still both fine for what they are. Enjoy it! -Rob

I agree. The button is the only downfall I have found in this fantastic little light. Like they say, nothing is perfect. The RRT-0 is my favorite EDC. I'm partial to using it with CR123's exclusively. But, I have the AA extension as an alternative power source. I have the Sunwayman V10 Ti, too, but prefer the RRT-0 over the V10. The V10 seems to have a warmer tint, if that's what you like. But, it is not as bright as my RRT-0.

Where did you get your RRT0 ?? I'm looking to purchase another one and looking to get it from reputable dealer.

Thank You

PS: do you own the S2 or R5 version ?

I've tried 3 versions of this light. Only the variable version had the button issue. You can carefully unscrew the retaining ring in the tail and replace the button with any standard 14 mm button like those sold at Dx etc. It will be fairly recessed, but it no longer has a huge gap. You do have to remove the rubber nub inside the replacement boot though. I have a glow boot on mine.

based off this video --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfXpiT4mxIk
jetbeam's new bc10 doesn't have a spongy button,
if the buttons are interchangeable, that could be a possible solution...

I got my RRT-0 from Light Junction. In addition to the AA extender, you can also purchase a matching Jetbeam holster and choose between an OP or smooth reflector. You are correct about the spongy button; it takes a while to get used to, but it is an awesome little light, especially when you got a lithium in there.

I'm still in search for an RRT-O in olive, to finish my JB Military collection.

I have the same issue with my new one (from BugOutGear), but it doesn't concern me at all. I just figured that's how it's supposed to be. It's still a great light.

gunga said:

I've tried 3 versions of this light. Only the variable version had the button issue. You can carefully unscrew the retaining ring in the tail and replace the button with any standard 14 mm button like those sold at Dx etc. It will be fairly recessed, but it no longer has a huge gap. You do have to remove the rubber nub inside the replacement boot though. I have a glow boot on mine.

Click to expand...

So the RRT-0 (five-mode) R2 has a more responsive tailswitch than the (variable) R5 version? How would you compare it to something like the SF E2DL?

I just wanted to confirm, because I might consider trying to find one of the older R2's (or maybe trade, I don't know?).

By the way, what was the "third version"? I thought they had only released the R2 and then R5.

@archimedes... This tailswitch concern is a non-issue. The newer R5 light is far better, brighter, and with more features. You shouldn't feel put-off to consider the older light in its place. fwiw.

A quick question. If you put a lithium AA in is it the same brightness as the CR123?

pblanch said:

A quick question. If you put a lithium AA in is it the same brightness as the CR123?

Click to expand...

Yes

pblanch said:

A quick question. If you put a lithium AA in is it the same brightness as the CR123?

Click to expand...

Lithium primary AA ( non-rechargeable ) will not produce same brightness as the CR123

Lithium Rechargeable AA ( 14500 ) will produce same brightness as the CR123

njet212 said:

Lithium primary AA ( non-rechargeable ) will not produce same brightness as the CR123

Lithium Rechargeable AA ( 14500 ) will produce same brightness as the CR123

Click to expand...

I think that:
AA NiMH (1.25V)
< AA alkaline (1.50V)
< AA Li-FeS2 [L91 cell] (1.50V) (very slightly brighter?)
< CR123 Li-MnO2 primary (3.0V)
= CRAA Li-MnO2 primary (3.0V)
< 14500 (3.6V - 4.2V, depending on specific rechargeable lithium chemistry)

In terms of brightness of max output, this seems to approximately correlate with nominal battery voltage for the RRT-0, at least as far as I have been able to roughly check (by eye). Note, though, that I don't have either the high-voltage CRAA or Li-Ion 14500 batteries to test.

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@RobME, I do like everything else about the R5 version, but for me, I just don't like the feel of the switch. Too soft and "mushy", at least in the one I got. It also has a long throw that makes holding momentary activation difficult. That's why I used the example of the SF ED2L, which is basically what I would personally consider ideal.

If the R2 version had a tailswitch similar to my SureFire, I would consider looking for the older JetBEAM.

i think im going to try to get some of those rubber boots from dx, anyone know how to remove the boot from the rrt-0?

There were 2 versions of the original R2 version. The 1st version had a few bugs (non-tailstanding, pre-flash or flickering issues with fresh primaries...) that the 2nd version did not. I also noticed that the threading in the bezel was sqaure inthe 2nd version but not the first. There may have been some other changes too. NOte that there was also an R5 version with pre-set levels before the variable version so really, there have been 4 versions of the RRT-0. I have tried all of them.

The variable version (R5) has a much better interface (in my opnion) because you get access to a very low low level (barely on) as well as the cool variable interface. It does go into SOS too easily, and I'm not sure I Like strobe near of the off/standby position, but it is good overall. The floppy boot is because jetbeam changed the positioning of the switch a tad (I think it sits a touch lower in the tail) while installing the wrong boot. Switching to a shorter boot fixes the issue. The switch is more firm than Surefire switch. Overall a nice switch.

To change the boot, you have to remove the retaining ring around the boot. Unscrew it craefully with some fine needle nose pliers. Be careful, since the notches are rounded and you may scratch up the light if slip. Note, mine came open well, I unscrewed slowly and carefully, but some samples may be harder to open then others. YMMV.

Momentary operation is not perfect because there is a slight delay from pushing the siwtch to getting light (up to a second in some circumstances, but usually a fraction of a second). If you have an issue with this, get a Sunwayman.



Overall, I do like the light. It is a lot easier to get to the emitter too, so it's not too hard to mod it to a neutral white XP-G (I've done mine already).

Thanks very much for the info, gunga!

We agree on the SOS and strobe issues, too. Is there a Sunwayman model that is similar to the RRT-0, but omits the blinky modes?

archimedes said:

Thanks very much for the info, gunga!

We agree on the SOS and strobe issues, too. Is there a Sunwayman model that is similar to the RRT-0, but omits the blinky modes?

Click to expand...

Sunwayman V10R but you don't have the lower low of 0.003 lumen. The lowest on Sunwayman V10R is 1 lumen, and highest is 210 lumen which seems much dimmer than the RRT-0 in eyeball comparison than the numbers actually show on the literature. The RRT-0 looks twice brighter and floodier than the V10R.

In case you guys are unaware yet, there is another new version of RRT-0 coming up. The last I read, it has an S2 emitter, positive contact spring and a battery protection circuit which would cut off the light when battery is weak.