I need a good SHHTF light - AA seems best

So I have a Quark 123^2 for over a year now, and a Tri-EDC that should be arriving any day. I'm thinking about something a wee bit more practical to round out my small collection. With what recently happened in Japan, before then in Katrina, and a few apocalyptic TV shows I've watched recently, I'm thinking I could really use a "Stuff Has Hit The Fan" style light. Something that could fill multi uses if for when the power was out for an indefinite amount of time.

I'm thinking this light should be an AA light, as I always have anywhere between 20-40 of these batteries on hand. Also I suppose finding AA batteries wouldn't be too difficult, whereas finding CR123's or trying to charge up 18350's would be next to impossible.

So I ask you experts here, if you could have one light with you to help see you through Armageddon, what would it be? I'm thinking it would be best run on AA's (worse comes to worse you could liberate them from your missing neighbors remotes), and have multiple functions, meaning a very low low, a very high high (relatively speaking of course), a solid mid to see you through most of your work, and get the most out of the batteries it was given with good longevity. Your thoughts?

Via the CPF-only 'Google Search' function:

5-page thread here:
What Flashlight Would You Want if the SHTF?

3-page thread here:
TSHTF light kit

Topic has been reopened, and I would love some input. Thanks!

Surefire E2L-AA with some spare L91's (Energizer Lithiums), some Eneloops/Duraloops, a charger, and a Solar AA Charger. Should be set for the next 50 years if the eneloops will last that long.

Quark AA (either the "Regular" UI or the "Tactical" UI.) Quarks lego with each other meaning you could lego the quark AA with a quark AA2, or a quark AA2 Turbo, or a quark 123, or a quark on the 18650 body. This would cover all possible battery types including the 1 AA (which is my favorite.) These quarks will run on alkaline, lithium, NiMh rechargeables, and Li-ion rechargeables. Very versitile, and I think in a situation you described versitility could prove to be very useful. Also, if one light broke you could salvage parts from your other quarks. These lights also have a really low low <1 lumen which surprisingly gets more use than I would have expected, and offers huge runtimes (great for survival situations.) I've built my family emergency bag around the quark system. Great lights, great versitility, and great system.

I usually have a box of 50-100 123A's on hand ready to go; if the S really HTF these have a ten+ year shelf life - much better than AA. When paired with something like a E2L Outdoorsman with 100h runtime or a Fenix PD31 with >200h runtime (on low) you're good for a while (~3.5 years with the light on 8hrs / night - 100 batts on hand lol).

Solar recharge could work, but you wouldn't want to be caught out with a low charge, or a bunch of end-of-life batts.

bops said:

I usually have a box of 50-100 123A's on hand ready to go; if the S really HTF these have a ten+ year shelf life - much better than AA. When paired with something like a E2L Outdoorsman with 100h runtime or a Fenix PD31 with >200h runtime (on low) you're good for a while (~7 years with the light on 8hrs / night lol).

Solar recharge could work, but you wouldn't want to be caught out with a low charge, or a bunch of end-of-life batts.

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The newer L91's (Lithium AA's) have a 15 year shelf-life...not sure how reliable that claim is though...but with the CR123's, when they're done, they're done. At least with AA's you have a larger source to scrounge new batteries from...especially with all the outdoor solar lighting, etc.

AAs are the best basically because of availability and cost and many types out there.
1)get some eneloop type cells (LSD nimh). Estimate your days usage and get a minimum to run for 2 days
2)get a decent car charger setup (forget solar unless you are almost sure you will not be near any vehicles)
3)estimate at least 1.5 days of lithium or rotatable alkaline battery supply for backup if by chance you cannot get power to your charger.
4)have 1-2 other inexpensive lights that use other battery types in your setup that have a long runtime with medium to low output that you can use or give away. The advantage to this is if you give away a light with batteries that do not have the same batteries as your main supply then the person getting the light cannot depend on you for his supply of batteries if per chance he becomes a moocher.
5)consider even a 12v plug in adapter for 12v cigarette lighters (the one with 2 clamps) so you can grab a 12v battery out of a vehicle and recharge where you are later.

Zen Ape said:

Topic has been reopened, and I would love some input. Thanks!

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Sometimes it is better to bump older threads so that updated information can be found with the older discussion.

Some say AAs are better because they are everywhere, and the stores will have tons of them.
Some others say CR123s are better because everyone buys up the AAs and they are gone, while the CR123s stay on the shelf because only CPF members have lights that use them.
I guess I'm in the middle, but own all kinds of batteries and lights that use them.
Shakelights aren't well regarded on CPF, most are lacking quality or use batteries that are covered up. However, my nightstar shakelight is pretty good for a situation like this, no batteries that go bad, it uses a capacitor. Whatever it is I think it has to have a low moonlight output at around 0.2 lumens, that has efficient electronics. Something like a Quark AA2 that can go a month continuous on moonlight, HDS, etc.

A 3-cell P60 host has alot of flexibility for multiple battery configurations.
People use a 9P for this, or an Elzetta 3-cell, or a Malkoff MD3. there are probably others that I left out, too.

Anyway, let's look at this from a flexibility view.
Let's say you have an Elzetta 3-cell model like I have, which comes with a Malkoff M60 drop-in and a 3-cell body with a Hi/Lo switch option.
First, obviously they can take 3xCR123 batteries in this type of light.
If you have a dummy cell, they can also typically run on 2xCR123.
If you have 2 dummy cells, you could even run it below regulation levels on one cell, but it's less than optimal.
This light with either 2-cell or 3-cell battery configuration can give 15 lumens low, and 230 lumens high. Very good usefulness.

Then you can get a Malkoff M31 drop-in for it, which will fit right in the head, but works with lower voltage battery sources.
It just so happens that the 3-cell body is the right length to take 2xAA batteries in it. You might wrap some tape around the outside of the batteries so they don't rattle, if you want.
This will give you the same 15 lumens low, or 250 lumens high, on the 2xAA batteries.
Or with a dummy AA cell, you could even use one AA battery.

If you look at all those battery options, and the quality and ruggedness of the Malkoff and Elzetta type product lines, you have a fantastic array of possibilities of light engines and battery configs you could choose from in an emergency.
If you prefer SureFire or a clone, you could do the same thing with a 9P or a 9P clone.

IMO, the 3-cell body lights give the most possibilities in a body, along with the P60 type drop-in light engines of the proper voltages.
I think that this versatility gives the most options for whatever types of batteries you can find in almost any situation.
My 2 cents.

BTW, that's what I have for my SHTF light.

Lot's of good info and food for thought. Thanks guys! Looking to spend in the $50-$75 range for this, and considering my positive experience thus far, I may take the advice on the Quark 2AA. I was hoping to try another manufacturer just to get more exposure to what's out there, and was looking at the new ThruNite Neutron 2AA. Brighter than the Quark on the high, has a similar low and has a bigger hot spot with the XML. Jury's still out though as there are just so many lights out there to think about.

Zen Ape said:

Lot's of good info and food for thought. Thanks guys! Looking to spend in the $50-$75 range for this, and considering my positive experience thus far, I may take the advice on the Quark 2AA. I was hoping to try another manufacturer just to get more exposure to what's out there, and was looking at the new ThruNite Neutron 2AA. Brighter than the Quark on the high, has a similar low and has a bigger hot spot with the XML. Jury's still out though as there are just so many lights out there to think about.

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I personally think that the Neutrons are a much more versatile series than the Quark Regulars, as an everyday EDC. They won't run the 3945091587 hours or something like that on moonlight, but they still run more than long enough for actual purposes. More output, longer output at the same output on high, makes them very useful.

I've got a Thrunite Nuetron 1A on the way, and the Crelant 7G1 on the way. The Crelant looks incredibly sturdy.

I would go for a 2AA setup with a very low lowest brightness. Something like Quark AA2 or ITP SA2 (ok, ITP:s 5 lumen low is a bit on the bright side for my taste).

2AA has significally better runtime than single AA and I think in SHTF scenario that is as important as availability of the battery. And I also prefer a light that can tailstand, an if possible, be on candle mode (bare emitter without reflector). I would (and will) also keep a AAA light nearby. Because as stated, AA:s will be probably be bought/looted first but there is a chance that AAA:s might not.

So in short: One 2AA tailstandable light and 1AAA small backup. Quark 2AA + ITP A3 Eos would be fine duo.

I really like Kestrel's "car" light in this situation,a SF D3 with the Malkoff M31W.The D3 and M31W make a reliable combo with the additional ability to use a single CR123 as well as AAs.I would probably opt for the M31WL instead for it's greater runtime or maybe have both the M31W and M31WL.Having a simple,modular light with spare parts seems like the key to me.The availability of AAs is always cited for these scenarios but I always wonder about that.The biggest advantage that I see to AAs is NiMH rechargables.If you have an appropriate charger and a reasonable stockpile it should make your light viable for quite a while.There are definately more AAs than any other battery but the vast majority are undesirable alkalines and EVERYBODY will be scrounging for them.There was an ice storm a few years ago that caused a widespread extended power outage,D and AA batteries disappeared from store shelves in short order.C batteries didn't seem to be in as much demand and CR123s,though expensive, were readily available.I am sure somewhere you are going to be able to find AAs in a remote or something, but would you really want to risk putting batteries with a high probability of leaking into your prized disaster light? Best to keep some lesser, long running light(s) to make use of those batteries.

If you go the Quark route, I prefer the tactical series because of the simple programming (program head loose and tight setting). If you go the tactical route I would get a spare flush tail cap so it can tailstand, just an extra option. There is also a difference between the voltage range of the Quark heads in the 123^2 and all of the other Quark heads (put a 0.9-4.2v head on a 123^2 tube and you will likely damage/destroy the head).

Zen Ape said:

Lot's of good info and food for thought. Thanks guys! Looking to spend in the $50-$75 range for this, and considering my positive experience thus far, I may take the advice on the Quark 2AA. I was hoping to try another manufacturer just to get more exposure to what's out there, and was looking at the new ThruNite Neutron 2AA. Brighter than the Quark on the high, has a similar low and has a bigger hot spot with the XML. Jury's still out though as there are just so many lights out there to think about.

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I just bought the ThruNite Neutron 2A from GoingGear.com on Tuesday. I love this light! It is very bright (very floody as well) I run eneloops in it and to my eye its just as bright on Turbo mode as my Quark 123^2 Tactical S2 edition. The knurling is a little more aggressive (which I like) and the construction is outstanding. As a dedicated Quark owner (Mini 123, 123^2 Turbo + 18650 Body, 123^2 Tactical) I can say that the ThruNite Neutron 2A is quickly becoming one of my favorite lights. I also have a JetBeam RRT-0 Raptor R5 with the AA Extender which is nearly 2X expensive, but would make an excellent SHTF light as well.

Gee, two kind people above plugged my SF D3 case setup (2xAA and 1xCR123), but didn't offer a link to it.

However, it's actually going to get a modest upgrade very soon ... :devil:

Kestrel said:

Gee, two kind people above plugged my SF D3 case setup (2xAA and 1xCR123), but didn't offer a link to it.

However, it's actually going to get a modest upgrade very soon ... :devil:

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LOL, I like the case. I don't have a case, but I do keep two 123*2 (SF 6P with XML-drop-in and a Quark Turbo) lights in my center console, plus a bunch of spare CR123 batteries.

But I have one question for you - why in the world would you ever mess with "used" 123's?????

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Chevy-SS said:

But I have one question for you - why in the world would you ever mess with "used" 123's?????

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I rec'd 100 free Duracells a while back. Most of them had a majority of their usable capacity remaining, but they're on their last ~3 years of shelf-life by now. I figured that it wouldn't hurt to keep 8 in this case, as the relatively few new CR123's I have are still good for another 8+ years or so. :shrug: