Portable Working Light with one CSM-360

hi,

i build this light some month ago but never postet here. the details:

- 1 x Luminus CSM-360 neutral white 6000 Lumen
- 1 x Reflector from a Bridgeluxe emitter (works realy good with the csm)
- 1 x old cpu heatsink with temperature controlled fan
- 1 x switching power supply for stationary use and charge
- 1 x lion balancer charger
- 16 x 18650 2400mA/h cells out from new Laptop pakages
- 1 x pwm dimmer with power fet on the output stage
- 1 x led voltage meter to check every lion stack (they are 4p/4s)
- 1 x carrying case
- some thick cables and siwtches

here is the output:













thanks for looking, markus

That's very cool. What sort of runtime do you get from it? Have any beamshots?

Good lord, how do you disarm it?

That is way cool. I imagine the output is just incredible!

Indeed very cool. :thumbsup:

That is badbum! This is the type of build I have been dreaming about myself. Right now I have an H6Flex, an LFlex, an old pentium 4 heatsink similar to your heatsink, a fan and another little aluminum heatsink. I want to run NW XM-L's on the H6flex and an XP-G or XP-E on the LFlex. Thanks for the inspiration!

Nice project .

probably a very floody light, but that's what you want when you are working. That heatsink will keep it "cool" fine I reckon, those are made for a lot bigger heatloads (~200w)

Great concept, very nice done.
Chance of getting kind of beamshots?

hi,

i will try to make some beamshots. the light is very floody, but that is what i want.
my intension was to build a cheap but powerful and energy saving light. my older working light needs 1000 watts. this one need only 130 watts.
the led is a csm360 with 4500°K, so it is near neutral white. i was shocked when the led arrived. it is extreme heavy with a massive copper sink. the big cooling area make it easy to cool down.

markus

Very nicely done.

That is a truly awesome build, Mash.M!!!

Can you dissipate enough heat to run the emitter at full power?

If not; how much power does this thermally max-out at?

Sorry that I didn't see this before now,

William

hi william,

the heatsink is big enough to cool down the emitter at full power. the fan is temperature controlled and runs most of time at lowest speed.
the maximum current is rated at 6.3 amps, but i drive the csm-360 to about 8 amps.

markus

Hi mash.m !

nice work . May I ask : It is possible to CSM -360 PCB cut in to the ''STAR '' form or in circle with diameter 21mm ? How much heat produce that Led ? Thanks!

mhh, i think this will be hard, cause the lens/dome is 16mm in diameter! you can cutdown it, but i don´t know if you can get down to 21mm.
there is a magmod with a cBm-360 out:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?262788-Red-Maglite-5D-Luminus-CBM-360-4500K-neutral-white-4500-lumen-aspheric

wow nice build :thumbsup:

i'd love some beamshots!

Can I ask where you found your case? Do you mind if I use your design as inspiration for a build I have been working on?
-JP

hi, the case is from a german tool shop called "bauhaus". they havem them in several sizes, but this one is the smallest. if you wish you can build the same i done. there is no patent and i am happy to see your output.

markus

oo: Very serious effort, there! ! Are the tubes/pipes running from the copper heatsink plate to the cooling fins fluid-filled, ie, convection cooling?

hi, it is a heatpipe heatsink from a pc, so yes they are fluid filled.

Thanks for responding so quickly, Mash.m!

I'm truly awed that your fan only runs at its low speed while you're pumping 8 amps (i.e. over 120 watts) into the emitter, and, I'd guess you're blasting around 8000 lumens while blowing more than 100 watts worth of hot air. This is head and shoulders above any other single-emitter "portable" device I've read about yet!

Imho, builds like the red-maglight, (mentioned above) Nitecore TM11, 4-Sevens Maelstrom s18, or *anything* trying to achieve significantly more than 1000 lumens OTF without a ventilated heat-sink like yours are just a flash-in-the-pan - literally, if they try to operate at full power for much more than 10-15 minutes - simply because they can't dissipate the associated heat fast enough via convection through the surface of the device alone, unless they are cheating with ice-packs or something impractical like that.

Someday, can you share the temperature near the junction of the emitter as well as the rise in ambient air coming out of the case after your device has been running for at least five minutes? I'm on the edge of my seat wondering how close you are dancing to the 150 C (302 F!) survival limit of the LED.

Respectfully Yours, William

hi william,

when i worked at my house this light runs for hours without any break, that´s why i build it. before i used it i did several test runs to be shure that it will not overheat and damage the emitter.
if you take a closer look to the second, third and last picture you can see a big copper plate between the emitter and the cpu sink. this plate is soldered without any distance directly to the cpu sink. i did this cause the emitters heatsink plate is bigger then the cpu plate. so the thermal path is nearly perfect.
when i did the test-runs i also messured the temperature near the dome of the emitter with a sensor that was fixed with thermal paste. the temperature never goes about 70°celsius, so i am on the safe side.
belive my, the heatsink can dissipate more then 120 watts of thermal power. if you take a look at arctic´s homepage you can see the cpu sink freezer xtreme rev.2. they write that it can dissipate more then 160 watts inside a pc tower.
in my construction the airflow is optimized. the intake is direct fresh and cool air. the warm air goes through the complete case so no standing heat can generated.

markus