Hand cut Mag D like a Human Lathe

ma_sha1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
3,042
Location
CT, USA
Before I introduce this new method to hand cut Mag D like a real lathe, I'd like to review the previous methods briefly.

Method #1. The Neck Grinder


First introduced by Stafan in this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?227140

This method grind away the thread in the neck & cut mag tube & grind the top narrow to go into the head. This method can also be used to join Mag tube with Dx turbo head, like I've done here in the MagDEFT: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?268894

This method is easiest of the 3, but with a big flaw: It lost the mag focus function.

Method #2. The Belly Cutter
First introduced by me in this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...umen-Rebel-Mag-Deep-SMO-gt-50-000-lux-1-meter!

Did it again here & got better with practice:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?275711

The concept is simple: Cut in the belly to remove unwanted section, The two keeper sections, one bore out the end & one grind away the end until one end can plug into the other. For the D mag tube, some practice is necessary as it's not easy to match the seam.

Method #2 has the advantage over #1 as it retains the mag focus function ( it doesn't touch the neck). But it also has a flaw: The belly scar, it can be hidden at the curled/uncurled junction but it's still there.


Now, I am introducing a New Innovation &the best cutting method:
Method #3: The Human Lathe :devil:

This method is done similar to real lathe, ie. cut the tube and re-thread the end.

Step 1. Cut the tube and bore the end.
See link in method #2 for how to bore it with a drill attached bit Rotary File. Except that I now tie the drill down on the table so I can do the bore by two hands, don't have to hold-down the drill greatly increased the stability and accuracy of hand operation.

It has to be bored almost open, note the thin layer, only 0.5mm tube remain:
dscf9794.jpg


Step two: Surgically retrieve the thread: Basically, cut the threaded section out and grind the outer surface to as thin as possible without grind through the tube
Look how thin it is, less than 0.5mm :eek:
dscf9779.jpg


Step 3: Plug em in:

Plugged-in half way, so you can see. Apply JB weld in 3-4 locations & push all the way in.
dscf9797x.jpg


Grind the end smooth with a file first followed by knife grinding stone to machine smooth.
dscf9804.jpg


View from the end after finishing the thread translocation. You can see the spit seam in the middle of the tube wall, the wall is the thinnest in this area & there's very little room for error.
dscf9809.jpg


Done! If I haven't just told you, can you tell its done by Human Lathe or metal Lathe? :sssh:
dscf9814.jpg


Finished host. My Mag 1D Turbo head next to Mag 2C. The neck section is the neck from DX shower head host joined to mag body using Belly Cutter technique, method #2 above. This way, I can still do focusing & also allow room for a big copper heat sink with the elongated neck decorated with Carbon Fiber.
dscf9830n.jpg


the end.


.
 
Last edited:

yazovyet

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 9, 2011
Messages
221
as some one who is having to make due with hand tools when i need a lathe, that is awesome. i'll remember this type of thing for later for later
 

vestureofblood

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 19, 2008
Messages
3,210
Location
Missouri
I gotta tell ya that looks great. Its hard hard to get clean work like that without the use of machines tools. That sure looks like a lot of work though.
 

beekeeper5

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
161
Nice! How long did it take you (from start to finish) to complete Methods 1, 2 and 3? I was thinking of doing method 2 - the belly cutter. Method 3 may seem nicer but I figure it's a lot of work.
 

ma_sha1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
3,042
Location
CT, USA
Thanks Guys!

I gotta tell ya that looks great. Its hard hard to get clean work like that without the use of machines tools. That sure looks like a lot of work though.

Yes, lots of work, my hand is still sore..

Nice! How long did it take you (from start to finish) to complete Methods 1, 2 and 3? I was thinking of doing method 2 - the belly cutter. Method 3 may seem nicer but I figure it's a lot of work.

Method 1: 1.5 hrs

method 2: 3 hrs

Method 3: 4 hrs + 1hr soaking in bubble bath required as workers comp :)

This host combined #2 neck & #3 tail, = 7 hrs
 
Last edited:

Benson

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 15, 2009
Messages
1,145
Wow. Impressive, but when I read "like a Human Lathe", I thought I was going to see you laying out a helix and "threadmilling" with a dremel. :nana:

Truthfully, if one doesn't re-anodize the light, this looks better than the standard lathe job -- the threads stay anodized, and the tailcap has a better chance of reliable lockout!
 

Hill

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 11, 2008
Messages
318
Location
MA
Ma,

Another great innovative idea! I did method #2 in this thread, and it took a very long time to dremel a "male" and "female" end to join. Here is another thread using a similar technique, except the OP translocated the threads from the head and cut out the stock switch and converted it to a tail clicky.

Your hard work and detailed tutorials are much appreciated!
 
Last edited:

ma_sha1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
3,042
Location
CT, USA
Wow. Impressive, but
Wow. Impressive, but when I read "like a Human Lathe", I thought I was going to see you laying out a helix and "threadmilling" with a dremel. :nana:
:crackup:
Truthfully, if one doesn't re-anodize the light, this looks better than the standard lathe job -- the threads stay anodized, and the tailcap has a better chance of reliable lockout!

True, never thought of that, better than real lathe, it has OEM threads :)
 

ma_sha1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
3,042
Location
CT, USA
Ma,

Another great innovative idea! I did method #2 in this thread, and it took a very long time to dremel a "male" and "female" end to join. Here is another thread using a similar technique, except the OP translocated the threads from the head and cut out the stock switch and converted it to a tail clicky.

Your hard work and detailed tutorials are much appreciated!


Thanks Hill,

I use a Carbide Rotary file (like this but made out of carbide: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00967037000P), with some motor oil, the drill is fixed to table side ways, I use both hands to hold mag tube to bore, apply good pressure down, the speed it go through aluminum is very fast, like knife going through butter, well maybe not quite butter :) but Its a lot faster than using small sanding wheels or anything else I've tried.

The other method you linked is still #2. The OP just cut at neck & used the neck groove to re-join to save grinding time, the problem is that one will need to re-make the switch, so the time saved from grinding one of the joint is lost at making switch.

It's a good alternative if one wants a tail switch, I prefer to keep the stock switch & not to touch the neck.
 
Last edited:

Hill

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 11, 2008
Messages
318
Location
MA
Thanks Hill,

I use a Carbide Rotary file (like this but made out of carbide: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00967037000P),

Thanks for the link Ma. I use a similar tip on my rotary tool - found out pretty quick that the sanding drums are only good for smoothing out, but are terribly inefficient for really cutting into aluminum. But it's probably faster on a drill which has more torque.
 

ICUDoc

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 20, 2004
Messages
907
Location
Sydney, Australia
AMAZING dedication to the cause to mod a mag like that!
Good job!
I have bought some JB Weld but never used it yet- is it going to be a longlasting solution if you tighten the threads a little snug?
Second question: how did you come to see a Pleasure Tool, a bunch of bananas and an anti-nausea solution in one place????
 

ma_sha1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
3,042
Location
CT, USA
AMAZING dedication to the cause to mod a mag like that!
Good job!
I have bought some JB Weld but never used it yet- is it going to be a longlasting solution if you tighten the threads a little snug?

The JB weld is very strong, 1800 pounds per square inch adhensive strength, no way to losen the thread insert by over tighten the thread.
 
Last edited:

CKOD

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
708
I say ma_sha gets a wood-working lathe, and we see what tricks he can come up with on that. :D
 

RepProdigious

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Messages
660
Location
the Netherlands
My way is best, its a variation on the belly cut method.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?313145

Only downside is that you lose the head o-ring groove so you have to put the o-ring at the end of the threads and you can't use the standard mag clicky anymore so youll need a tail button or alike.

But its quick as heck, 20 minutes tops and looks perfect because the head covers up the scar perfectly!
 

The_bad_Frag

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
233
Location
Germany
Really nicely done without a lathe! :twothumbs

Instead of the knive grinding stone which is really expensive you can use sandpaper on a flat glass sheet. The glass never gets uneven and you just have to buy new sandpaper.


This thread below pretty much killed my desire for any lathe, if I had any desire to begin with:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?313378-Lathe-Kills


I also saw 3 lathe accidents until now and ALL of them were because of not sticking to safety rules.
I have a mini-lathe at home and work on big lathes sometimes but never had a close call. Its easy to avoid accidents when following safety rules but sometimes you get stupid comments from co-workers. :p

1. Accident was the famous "chuck key left in the chuck and turned machine on". It was a big lathe with a clutch were the motor is running all the time. Those spin up in a split second and it was set in a high gear. Luckily no one was hurt but the chuck key punched a hole in the metal shop roof.

2. Accident was the "Remove the chips with bare hands while the machine is running" My friend tried to remove a lot of sharp metal chips from the aluminum thing he was making that it doesnt get scratches. But one chip wraped around his finger and also got caught in the chuck. It cut his finger open to the bare bone. Luckily he didnt lost it. Now he always uses a chip rake.

3. Accident was the "Clothes caught in the lathe" Again a friend of mine wearing a loose coat stood close the lathe. This maschine has a rotating hexagonal bare somewere near the pelvis height for the automatic feed. His coat wraped around it and pulled him against the machine. He had no serious injuries just a few scratches and bruises.
 
Last edited:

ma_sha1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
3,042
Location
CT, USA
Thanks, more reasons to say no to lathe, my rotary file got lose almost fly off the drill one time, but most of the time, I'll know right away if it starts to get lose, that's small risk in comparison.

This was actually the 2nd time I attempted the Human Lathe method,
I've been wanting to do one for a while, but the 1st time I tried it a few month ago, my skill was not smooth enough & I bored open the tube :eek:
 
Top