Removing original twisty switch from 6P tailcap (installing Zero Rez)

jellydonut

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
995
Location
Europe
Hey guys

Having a bit of a pickle removing the innards of my twisty switch tailcap.

I've tried following http://www.oveready.com/images/uploads/mcclicky.html

I've removed the spring. Taken a small flathead screwdriver and hammered the living bejeezes out of it. Boiled it, then hammered it again. No go.

Am I missing something? :(

I dragged the boot out with my pliers in the hope it would give me more insight;

C8iUs.jpg


What am I missing? :x
 

BIGLOU

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
717
I surprized EG has not responded by now. I see you stated you removed the spring, does this mean you hammered the spring side? Then you have hammered the wrong side. Hammer the boot side and use a center punch or a phillips screwdriver. JD what holster has caused the wear on that tailcap?
 
Last edited:

think2x

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
1,581
Location
Pulaski, Va.
I've done a few and all mine came out fairly easy by removing the spring and grabbing the piece the spring seats in with needle nose pliers and pulling it out.
 

shao.fu.tzer

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 13, 2006
Messages
1,076
Location
P-Town, TX
Maybe you need more protein in your diet. Naw, I'm just kidding. Like biglou said, were you hammering it from the wrong side? I've only taken one apart and it was fairly easy. Maybe your Z41 is defective.
 

jellydonut

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
995
Location
Europe
I surprized EG has not responded by now. I see you stated you removed the spring, does this mean you hammered the spring side? Then you have hammered the wrong side. Hammer the boot side and use a center punch or a phillips screwdriver.
I had, in fact, been hammering the tailcap side. It's just that spring removal is one step in that guide.

I hammered the tailcap side like a madman until I compared the photos with my switch more thoroughly. It seems my switch is something of a missing link. It is off a roundbody 6P, and so is probably an in-between between the original laser products switch and the current switch. It is in fact held together by an umbraco (hex? i think you call it) screw, and had to be unscrewed with a wrench while clamping it with a plier. I could have hammered it as much as I want, wouldn't have done any good unless I had managed to hammer the threads loose.

JD what holster has caused the wear on that tailcap?
No idea. I bought this busted-up 6P on the MP as-is (for a price according to its condition), you'd have to ask the previous owner. ;)
 

ElectronGuru

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
6,055
Location
Oregon
There are two issues here. You've already figured out the first. Your version of the Z41 includes metal parts that do not respond well to the hammer/punch method. Metal is actually preferable, as its easier to change out parts as desired. The later rivet design is more a set it and forget it affair.

The second issue is that unlike the McClicky and new ZRS, the Zero Rez you are installing does not replace all of the original parts. In fact, it requires most of them. The goal is to remove the post/screw, swap out the disk and replace the post/screw. Shoot me a PM if you don't still/already have the needed factory parts.
 

jellydonut

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
995
Location
Europe
There are two issues here. You've already figured out the first. Your version of the Z41 includes metal parts that do not respond well to the hammer/punch method. Metal is actually preferable, as its easier to change out parts as desired. The later rivet design is more a set it and forget it affair.

The second issue is that unlike the McClicky and new ZRS, the Zero Rez you are installing does not replace all of the original parts. In fact, it requires most of them. The goal is to remove the post/screw, swap out the disk and replace the post/screw. Shoot me a PM if you don't still/already have the needed factory parts.
Hello,

I expected as much, and ordered the switch with all factory twisty parts included, just to be safe.

The bezel with its lens removed, body with o-rings removed and completely disassembled tailcap have been soaking overnight in a detergent, and are now dry and ready for Nyogel, a new lens, new o-rings and the new switch. :D



I just went and looked at the new Shorty, which must have arrived after I placed this order. Am I right in understanding this is a twist-only setup?

I had a tinge of buyer's remorse in me, as it is typical this happens. A product update always appears right after I order! But if it has no momentary function, it's not the kind of switch I was looking for in any case. More of an accompanying product to the ZR than a replacement, right? :)
 
Last edited:

ElectronGuru

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
6,055
Location
Oregon
Am I right in understanding this is a twist-only setup?

More of an accompanying product to the ZR than a replacement, right? :)

Correct on both counts. Its a 3rd switch upgrade option, not an improvement of the 2nd. The original ZR is not likely to change.
 

Darvis

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 23, 2009
Messages
836
Location
GA, USA
It's brilliant!!! So I can now take my TL35 based pocket, keep the same length, and use an 18500 with a more reliable switch...
 

jellydonut

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
995
Location
Europe
Okay, I've officially given up on changing out this switch. The entire design of the SF twisty has to be one of the most idiotic engineering designs I've seen. The plastic retainer thingy seems like it was both designed and made in China.

It's gonna collect dust for now. I might take you guys up on your Oveready installation service one day. Most of all I want to burn this entire light to dust with an acetylene torch right now.
 

shao.fu.tzer

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 13, 2006
Messages
1,076
Location
P-Town, TX
Okay, I've officially given up on changing out this switch. The entire design of the SF twisty has to be one of the most idiotic engineering designs I've seen. The plastic retainer thingy seems like it was both designed and made in China.

It is quite an old design... It's more likely the Chinese copied Surefire... Plastic/polymer anything on a light unless it's an optic, isolation disc, wire insulation, spacer, or o-ring is in my book, a bad idea (unless we're talking the G series)... That being said, I sleep with a XD-45 on my bedstand every night...

I just don't think that with all these "space age" polymers and phenolic resins, there's enough material data to give us an accurate depiction of how these materials will hold up over time, adverse environs, and general everyday wear. Engineers tend to look at a material properties sheet and think "WOW! Look at that shear strength!" without considering how that material will wear after 10-20 years of usage. There are no computer models that I'm aware of that can duplicate this process accurately. So any "space age" polymer, even our beloved Nitrolon, in my book, can't really be trusted without a longer track record - and by that time there will be some new "SUPER POLYMER" that has double the tensile strength, half the weight, and double the chemical corrosion!

Ok, rant mode off...

Shao
 
Top