Beginner to this new flashlight world...

HellaBoredGuy

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
5
Hello there,

I was talking a good friend of mine and he showed me his flashlight. It humbled anything I have ever seen. We talked about his flashlight and told me that it was his hobby. I have never heard of such a thing, having flashlights as a hobby. I did my own research into it and was pretty surprised at how interesting it is.
I want to start. I have been combing the forums looking at all the different things I could do, but I would like a suggestion.

What kind of flashlight should I get first?

(Added 5/14)
1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__x_I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)

____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
__x_Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I'm flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

__x_I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
__x_Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

__x_LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
__x_HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

____I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__x_I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

____I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today's most powerful lights)
__x_I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
____I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
__x_I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
__x_50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
__x_90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__x_Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__x_I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
__x_I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
__x_I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's flashlights).
__x_Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
__x_Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.


15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
 
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peterharvey73

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 12, 2011
Messages
1,005
Get yourself a Jetbeam RRT-0.

The RRT-0 is one of the most practical lights.
It looks great, is small to carry around everynight, is powered by a compact yet powerful 3V high capacity & density CR123 battery, holds in the hand beautifully, esp in the overhand grip, to operate the nicely recessed tail end switch which can tail stand; the magnetic ring behind the head is good for the conventional underhand handshake grip, and has a standby mode twisting to the left, while far left gives the strobe.
The ring control is very practical because it gives a low of just 0.003 lumen, [though 1 lumen is low enough] - excellent for indoor use at 2 am in the morning just out of bed.
The light is so practical because it is so bright and has superb flood capability for short distance and indoor work, and the RRT-0 has a long wide head so that it is a very good thrower [for it's size]; I would not recommend the RRT-0 for outright long distance outdoor throwing - the bigger RRT-2/1/3's take care of that.

My only gripes with the RRT-0 is that unlike the bigger RRT-1/2/3's, the RRT-0's recessed tail end switch so it can tail stand, does NOT have a "thumb cut-out" for easy depressing of the tail end switch. Half press on the RRT-0 is easy, but a full press of the recessed switch is a little more uncomfortable.
Also, the magnetic ring has too much travel - more than 3/4 of a circle or about 300 degrees - 180 degrees would have been better.
The RRT-0 has an infinite ring control, and this is certainly better than just 3 steps of low medium and high, but whether infinite is as simple as 5 steps is debatable.
I wish the RRT-0's standby mode was a "full off" - drawing zero current so that the battery doesn't get flat within a month or so of storage.

Overall, the RRT-0 is a good if you want some style, a very good practical pocket-sized single CR123 battery flashlight, and you're willing to pay a little.
Later on, you can indulge in bigger, more powerful and more expensive lights...
 

Outdoorsman5

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,310
Location
North GA Mountains
Hello and :welcome:
This is a fun & strange hobby (to some.) I've been at it for years now, but really got rev'd up when I bought my first quality LED several years ago.

My favorite lights to give out as gifts are the Quark AA2 (two AA batteries,) the Fenix LD20 (two AA bats,) and the Zebralight SC51 (one AA bat.) I think one of these three lights would be perfect to start out with because they run on common AA batteries, and for general use they are really hard to beat. I like each of these lights for different reasons:

Quark AA2 -

You can get either the "tactical" user interface (UI) or the "regular" user interface. Here's a rundown of how the "tactical" version and the "regular" version works:

The "Tactical" version has 2 settings that you program (head tight & head loose.) You have 5 output choices plus 3 blinky choices - any of which can be programmed into either setting. It only takes 20 seconds to program each setting. The "tactical" version comes with a protruding switch that allows "momentary on." This switch is called a "forward clicky" which allows momentary on. ClickHere

The "Regular" version has all of the same light output & blinky settings available, but you cycle through each setting by lightly pressing the tail switch. For example, when the head is tight you have turbo then strobe. When the head is loose, you have moonlight, then low, then medium, then high, then sos, and then beacon. This loop repeats as you cycle through. The "regular" version can tail stand because the switch does not protrude out from the light. This also means it does not have "momentary on." This clicky switch is called a "reverse clicky" which means you have to click it to turn on the light. You can buy a tactical tail (forward clicky) for this light without changing the UI (the UI is programmed in the head not the tail,) so you will still have all output levels available which you cycle through. ClickHere

These quarks are lego-able which means you can swap out the head, body, & tail among the family of lights....makes these very versatile. So a AA2 head & tail would also work on a single AA body, or a single 123 body. Also, quarks are made to except any battery type - alkaline, lithium, NiMh rechargeable, and Li-ion rechargeables. The Li-ion batteries give the quarks a pretty big boost in output, and are nice...but they are an investment. In the AA2 Quark though you can only run the light on one Li-ion cell not two (two would fry it.) So you could buy the AA x1 body, and run it on a single Li-ion 14500 battery (and achieve 200 lumens with that single Li-ion...nice.) If you do not want to go that route then I'd recommend using Eneloop NiMh rechargeable batteries. No boost in output, but outstanding rechargeable batteries.

Fenix LD20 -

This light has the same UI as the Quark regular listed above where you cycle through all of the settings (head tight is max then strobe) (head loose is low, then medium, then high, then SOS, and it repeats as you cycle through.) This light physically looks better than the Quark to me, but it lacks the moonlight mode that the quarks have. Otherwise I love this light. ClickHere

Zebralight SC51 -

This light runs on one AA, but runs best & brightest on a rechargeable eneloop NiMh battery. It's small enough to carry everyday, and this thing has the best UI in the business....many would agree. Here's how the UI works from off - quick click = high, double click = medium, and slow click = low. Each level has a sub-level that you can access by double clicking when the light is on in that level, so there are 2 highs, 2 mediums, and 2 lows & the light remembers which level you left it on. This is one of the few lights that can come on at low, medium, or high from off.....which makes it a favorite among CPF'ers. ClickHere

Each of these are great, and would make for a good first purchase. Sorry for the long post, but I was bored.
 
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skyfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 4, 2009
Messages
1,823
Location
Los Angeles
I would suggest a P60 host, such as a surefire C2 or Z2 or 6P or something similar like a malkoff MD2.
there are also lower budget P60 hosts, a popular one would be the Solarforce L2P.

reason for that is that "P60 hosts" are easily upgradable, and customizable. there are plenty of optional parts, modules, and accessories.

also if you do decide on that, i recommend getting a host that can accept 18650 li-ion cells. because if later in the future you decide to get a high-powered drop-in module, such as a triple XP-G, or XM-L. itll run better on 18650 li-ion

most other hosts already fit 18650s, but the surefires dont, and require it to be bored out. theres are retailers and individuals that sell surefires that already have been bored.

there are plenty of options you can go about it. you can even put together your light with parts. such as using a solarforce body with a surefire head, and tailcap.
 

angelofwar

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
3,336
Location
South Carolina
I would suggest a P60 host, such as a surefire C2 or Z2 or 6P or something similar like a malkoff MD2.
there are also lower budget P60 hosts, a popular one would be the Solarforce L2P.

reason for that is that "P60 hosts" are easily upgradable, and customizable. there are plenty of optional parts, modules, and accessories.

also if you do decide on that, i recommend getting a host that can accept 18650 li-ion cells. because if later in the future you decide to get a high-powered drop-in module, such as a triple XP-G, or XM-L. itll run better on 18650 li-ion

most other hosts already fit 18650s, but the surefires dont, and require it to be bored out. theres are retailers and individuals that sell surefires that already have been bored.

there are plenty of options you can go about it. you can even put together your light with parts. such as using a solarforce body with a surefire head, and tailcap.

Ditto...all the fun is in the P60 hosts...and , well, everyone should own a Surefire C2 at least once in there life...Welcome by the way...your freind isn't the only weird one...WE'RE EVERYWHERE!!!!
 

RBWNY

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
374
I'd begin with the light that your friend has, and seek out other possibilities that are comparable to it. Does he have a AA or a 123 cell light? Does he use alkalines, NiMH rechargeables or lithiums?

One thing is for sure, I'd not make the choice too complicated at first. And it's probably better to begin with a light that uses cells that you don't need to charge. ALTHOUGH the popularity of NiMH's has grown remarkebly, so a AA light can go with either tossable alkalines, or you can purchase a few NiMH cells which often come with a charger package.

Wherever you begin, you'll find quality lights using the cell of your choice. If you want something simple, and for under $50, you might try an S-mini from Shiningbeam. It has 3 brightness levels (no blinky modes) and can use 2 - CR123's which are very cheap to buy online.

And of course......... welcome to our weird world :wave:
 
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LEDninja

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 15, 2005
Messages
4,896
Location
Hamilton Canada
:welcome:

For beginners use of common batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) is recommended. There are explosion risks with lithium chemistries and should be left to a later date after you have learned how to handle them safely. Reason for recommending flashlights with lithium cells is they are 3V or 3.6V and can be as bright as a 2AA light in 1/3 the battery space.
Heavy duty and alkaline batteries do not have the power to run many of todays flashlights.
Old style NiMH rechargeable batteries self discharge themselves quite fast. You will need to recharge them every 2 to 4 weeks even if you do not use them.
Low self discharge NiMH can hold 85% of their charge for up to a whole year. Usually say 'pre-charged' on the package. Recommended.

-

The best way to approach this is to think of the uses you will use your flashlight is to think first of the use(s) you have for one and then find the flashlight(s) that meet the need.

Keychain - you have light as long as you have your keys with you. Your ultimate backup. AAA or 2*2016 coin cell.

EDC (every day carry) - small enough to pocket carry. 1AA.

Car or house light - 2AA will give you more brightness and runtime.

Outdoors in the country, lots of vegetation - A neutral tinted light.

Your BIG light - You will be going to 8AA or multiple lithium batteries to have enough juice to power the brightest LEDs.

Buy one of each kind you will use, not a dozen of the same kind.

-

For the 1AA and 1AAA lights think whether you want a twisty (shorter) or clicky (easier to operate).

-

Because todays torches are so powerful, they usually have multiple modes - low for not disturbing others, medium for indoors, high for outdoors, turbo when you need the maximum light is often the minimum with a whole bunch of blink modes. The UI (user interface) can be a pleasure or a pain in the neck. Having to go through strobe, SOS, and beacon every time you want to change light levels is NO FUN.
For each of the recommendations you see here look up how it operates in the review section or the manufacturers website or ask the person recommending the light.

-

Finally do NOT go off and buy half a dozen lights all at once. Buy one, wait for it to arrive, play with it for a week. Find out what you like and WHAT YOU DO NOT LIKE. Now you have a better idea of what you want to buy next time.
 

Phil828

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
87
I am also relatively new to this addicting hobby and I would give a second recommendation to the Fenix LD20 as your first serious flashlight. I chose it as my first good flashlight after extensive research. It is generally considered to be one of the best all around general purpose lights available, but that doesn't mean it is mediocre or unexciting. It is comfortable, very well made, bright, not overly expensive, and uses 2 AA batteries. Start simply. I would also recommend that you look into rechargeable NiMH as a sister hobby.
Now that I have bought a few different types of lights I now have a list of 8 or so lights that I would really like to get over the next year or so. Take your time and find what you really want/need in a flashlight.
 

Stress_Test

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 18, 2008
Messages
1,334
Many possibilities, and good suggestions so far; I'll tell what my first purchases were and maybe that'll be food for thought also.

My first attempt at a good light was the first generation MiniMag LED 2AA. The major downfall of this light was the "sudden death" cutoff when the batteries got too low.

After finding the LightReviews site

flashlightreviews.com/reviews_index/reviews_by_mfgrs.htm

and CPF, after much reading, I went for a combo deal that offered both the Fenix L1D and E01 (you can find the L1D/L2D review on the website I mentioned, and the E01 has many threads here).

I later purchased a L2D body to allow me to swap between 1AA and 2AA configurations, and sometime after that, also a P2D (CR123a cell). Purchasing a light or two that have this "lego" ability is a big plus, as it lets you experiment with different configurations without having to buy a bunch of different lights (the current 4Sevens Quark models are great for this).

I eventually graduated to the more serious special purpose lights, such as the Fenix TK20 and TK11. The TK20 was my first neutral white emitter flashlight, and I've found that I like neutral lights, though they're more rare. You may wish to try out the neutral and warm emitters early on if possible, to determine if you have a preference for one type; that'll help narrow down future purchases.

Long thread here about the TK20, which contains some discussion regarding neutral emitters (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...s-the-Hype-in-the-Light&p=2613801#post2613801)


After this point I can't quite remember my sequences of purchases, but I did pick up a SureFire 6P, then a G2 shortly after. I agree that a P60 style host light, such as these or the SolarForce, are great for their "lego" flexability and upgradeability, but you must be knowledgeable about lithium cells before you take the plunge.


Anyway, in general, probably the biggest decisions are (1) battery type (2) switch type, twist or click.

For an inexpensive ($15) starter-light, the Fenix E01 is a great choice. It'll also introduce you to the "twisty" style light to see if you like that kind of thing. You really can't go wrong with it; even if you soon move on to other lights, the E01 can stay on your keychain or on standby by your bed, or even be given to a friend as a simple light to spread the love :)


A final note: Stay away from alkaline batteries if at all possible! It seems to me like the AA (and maybe AAA too) have gotten worse about leaking in recent years. I haven't had a D or C cell leak before (knock on wood), but if you have to use these cells, at least check them every couple of weeks to make sure they're not leaking.

Rechargeable NiMH cells (the low self-discharge type) are really nice to have. You can get either the Rayovac Hybrid, Duracell Pre-Charged, or Sanyo Eneloops. The Eneloops may be hard to find in the store, but they're available on line, such as at Lighthound.com. Get some cells and some type of "smart" chager that'll shut itself off automatically when the batteries are full. You can sometimes find these at stores, but Lighthound also sells them. Pick up a multi-meter at Radioshack or someplace so you can keep tabs on cell voltage.

Most importantly: read read read, then read some more! Do research all over CPF, both the flashlight and battery subforums, and learn as much as you can. The more info you know going in, the better satisfied you'll be with your purchases. You'll also gain lots of useful knowledge that may even help you outside of the flashlight world!

Read through that Flashlight Reviews site I mentioned above; the site itself is several years old, but there's still great info for the beginner in the all the Q/A links and other info.

Good luck, and hold on to your wallet! You'll get dozens of different opinions on what to buy, but remember, reading and researching is the key to getting something that makes YOU happy! :thumbsup:
 
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john-paul

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
131
If toying and modification is your main goal. I too agree that P60 is your best bet. I'm still pretty new to flashlight collecting, but I'm not new the awesome chameleon abilities of the p60 host body.
 

mvyrmnd

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,391
Location
Australia
For beginners I'll add my vote to a P60 host.

Start with a Solarforce L2. They're cheap, solid and easily upgradeable. You can get a cheap XP-G dropin to start with. If you decide you want more throw, you can change it for a XR-E dropin, or even go aspheric. If you want more flood, try a SST-50 or SST-90 dropin. Then you've got all of the options of tint :)

There are a lot of options, and a P60 host will allow you to experiment and decide what sort of emitter you like, at minimal expense.

Once you've got a feel for it, you can start investing in more expensive lights.
 

AaronG

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
385
Location
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
The Fenix LD10 was my first good light and I still think It's an excellent starter light. Fenix has a lot of great stuff. Check out E05, LD01, LD10. The PD series are great too but use CR123 lithium batteries. CHECK THE BATTERY TYPES.

I would recommend single cell lights. They fit in your pockets way better and still have a ton of punch.

Nmh batteries are much better than alkaline. Alkaline won't usually fully power the better lights. Duracell precharged with the white tops are very popular. The great thing about them is that you can power all your other stuff around the house with them too.

Also you might want to fill out this checklist
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-Flashlight-Recommendation-Checklist-Updated!!
 

raemon

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
10
Hello and :welcome:
general use they are really hard to beat. I like each of these lights for different reasons:

Fenix LD20 -

I have one of this.

Zebralight SC51 -

I have one of this also.

Each of these are great, and would make for a good first purchase. Sorry for the long post, but I was bored.

Yup. Agree. Liked them both.
 
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jabe1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
3,093
Location
Cleveland,Oh
Think about what you will actually carry with you and use (size, batt type, price..). Then research and buy.

It's an interesting hobby (and useful), half the fun is researching the possibilities.

When you EDC a light, you'll find out how often it can actually be used. Then try to optimize your EDC light!
I find I need a few (read alot) for different moods and situations. LOL

One day I'll find the perfect one....
 

HellaBoredGuy

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
5
The Fenix LD10 was my first good light and I still think It's an excellent starter light. Fenix has a lot of great stuff. Check out E05, LD01, LD10. The PD series are great too but use CR123 lithium batteries. CHECK THE BATTERY TYPES.

I would recommend single cell lights. They fit in your pockets way better and still have a ton of punch.

Nmh batteries are much better than alkaline. Alkaline won't usually fully power the better lights. Duracell precharged with the white tops are very popular. The great thing about them is that you can power all your other stuff around the house with them too.

Also you might want to fill out this checklist
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-Flashlight-Recommendation-Checklist-Updated!!

Thanks for that link. I copied it into the original post :D
 

HellaBoredGuy

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
5
Thanks for all the help :D
I am going to consider the P60
I am going to do some research into it before actually making a decision.
I added a survey to my original post and hopefully I can get a suggestion catered to my situation and what I will be using m new flashligth for.
:D
 

Chrontius

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 11, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Orlando, FL
Found a P60 host that takes AA batteries.

This low-voltage LED module should run fine on a pair of nickel-metal-hydride batteries. I sincerely doubt it'll push 300-700 lumens, but it will work (it's Lighthound's recommended combination). Even at 100 lumens per watt (pretty good) that's 3-7 watts out of two AA batteries. Let's do a little math. A good rechargeable AA puts out 1.2 volts, and carries 2 amp hours. Multiply the two and you get 2.4 watt hours per, for 4.8 watt hours in the flashlight. At 3 watts, you get just over an hour runtime - about par for the course with tactical flashlights, and 3 watts was a really popular drive level for a long time. At 7 watts you can expect under a half hour of runtime, and as you push the batteries, they find it harder and harder to keep up. Nickel zinc batteries will suffer less, but they may be fried for good by that. I'll try to test my 700-lumen module on a pair of Eneloops, and I'll post again if I can make it work.

Alternately, you could try a powerful low-voltage module with modes. I have the broad-voltage module, but its only speed is FULL POWER.
 
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