Olight M20 warrior problems

I think this is the original M20, 240 or 250 lumens I think. Anyways, almost from the start, the tail switch started acting up. Called olightusa and they sent me a new tail cap.

While waiting, I took apart the original tail and put it back together and BAM, it was working. Fast forward few months and only a couple hours of use and it's doing the same thing. Tried the second(new) tail cap, guess what, same thing. Nothing loose inside. When you touch the center of the battery and body with knife, light comes on fine.

Anybody seen this happen with such little usage and a supposed "new" tail cap?

I'm bout ready to just call them and say they need to just send me a different light.

I also think this is the last olight I buy. 2 failed tail caps with less than 10 hours use.:thinking:

The tailcap assembly might just be loose (which caused flickering in my case). If you have a needle nose plier, try tightening it using the two dedicated holes. Also, are you sure it's not a loose pill as doc'd here?

Cheers,
Tim

Of course it's tight. Like I said, I already took the tail cap apart. As far as the pill, how would that even matter if you touch a piece of metal to the battery end and the metal body of the light and it lights up just fine? It obviously has something to do with the tail cap. Or, somehow some "other" problem between the light emitter electronics and the tail cap electronics, which I don't understand how that could exist in these circumstances. And it happens with both tail caps. ????????

Try to move the switch from on tailcap to the other tailcap this solved my problems on a M21, the M21 was new and also the extra tailcap and i try to adjust the tailcap inside have had this problem befor on M20/21 and the adjustment in tailcap (plastic part lose or tigten so the ruber part is not to tight on the switch) has worked fine until now.
I can not understand why this did work for me, ihave been a seller for Olight produkts befor and the only problem i have had M20/21 is the tailcap.

Best regards Lennart (hope you understand my english)

Try clean the thread.
Try another battery.

My M20 R2 had some major malfunctions; It would only turn on when the head was loose if I remember correctly. I took apart tailcap, tightened it all just for fun. I don't think that solved it.

What did somehow solve the problem, is loosening and then re-tightening ALL the components in the head. I had to purchase an ultra-long-skinny-sharp needle tweezer to accomplish this. I stuck the two sharp ends of the needle in all the nooks and crannies and circular holes they would fit. Tightened everything up and that fixed it.

Cleaning the threads and contacts with rubbing alcohol might help in some cases, but it didn't help my case.
My guess is you need to remove the head and the reflector. And I mean...unscrew everything you possibly can in the head. Even the brass heatsink. Then re-tighten it and I bet it'll work. As to why your light turns on when you touch a screwdriver or w/e to the tailcap. Who knows. Best of luck!

@OP, Hey buddy, just trying to help. I understand you're frustrated but no need to direct it at me... :tinfoil:

I'm not sure how familiar you are with the M20's electricals but have you ever wondered why the light stays on despite the head being loosened? I did and I sought to find out the reason.

I took the head apart completely and spent some time studying the electrical path and noted that the pill has two grounds:

The outter circle (red arrow) mates with the "base" of the head (also red arrow in pic below) and electricity is conducted through the head to the battery tube via the non-anodized threads (note that the threads on the head side of the battery tube also aren't anodized):

This completes the first ground path which is constant (ie: path is always closed unless pill is loose and not making contact).

The inner circle (blue arrow) on the pill is what mates directly with the main battery tube (blue arrow) and is what is used to trigger a level changes when you loosen and tighten the head by opening and closing the path.

I've noted that many problems described w/the M20 not turning on, flickering, changing levels (or not) are mostly due to the pill being loose. This is why when hero took apart and tightened the head, it resolved the issue.

Now it may be that indeed you just have two bum tailcaps but at this point, what do you have to lose by taking the head apart (aside from a few minutes of your time)?

Good luck and hopefully you'll have this resolved one way or another. Incidentally Olight has a dedicated forum over on CPFMP, you may wish to try contacting them there.

Cheers,
Tim

Hum.:thinking:

Just let us know once you acquire that special skinny pair of sharp tweezers. I had to get mine on the big e-auction site . Normal needlenose pliers are too large in my experience, and most tweezers are also too large. You'd be lucky to find one of those super-sharp tweezers at a hardware store, but it's worth a try.

Hey guys, sorry for resurrecting old thread, but I just wanted to say, that lately I have had flickering problems with my M21, and they were caused by the tail cap. I took apart the tail-cap, played a bit with the switch, assembled it back and it started to work properly. Thanks for the hint!! :thumbsup: