which p7 in a 3d direct drive maglits?

I built about a dozen (for friends and gifts) of these 3d p7 direct drive maglites 3 years or more ago..They have been great but I had one go bad and need to make a couple more for some friends and would like a couple for back-up. I remember being able to find the p7's (j bin c bin ect..) Now I can't remember which is the best to use in this type of light.. Seems those "older" type p7's aren't around... anybody have any input as to which p7 to use and where to get them today, or other option??? Thanx for any help:thumbsup: p.s. I always use the tenergy 10,000mah 1.2volt batteries in these...thanx again

Try an XM-L instead, lower vf so you'll get higher current so they will need good heatsinking. But the efficiency increase over P7's is incredible.

Thanx Red but I already have the p7 specific heatsink slugs with a few extra to build a few more lights. Doesn't look like the mx-l would work on these heats sinks>

Moving this to LED Flashlights...

Britelumens have a couple of good options: -

http://www.britelumens.com/emittersandparts.html

Both are rated to between 800-900 lumens emitter output (signified by the 'D'), and both have the same tint ('SWO'). The difference between the two is the forward voltage - 'I' = 3.23-3.50V, 'J' = 3.50-3.75V.

Thanx Stephen, 30.00 each?? I don't think I paid that much around 2 years ago! Dx sells p7's but are a unfamiliar type to me, e.g. bsypi 3.6-4.2v bare and another c-bin on heat sink base 3.6-3.7v. They are about 12.00-13.00 each. Are the older type p7's that britelumans sell still being manufactured?? Maybe that's why britelumans p7's are 30.00? Also a little fustrated because doing a search here for "p7's 3d mag mods" comes up with not much info like it did a couple of years ago....maybe the crash?? I'm really trying to get this info but keep hitting a dead end.... surely there are people modding their 3d mags using the p7's direct driven as I have. Like I said, I have made a dozen at least and me and my friends have been very pleased with them. Just would like to make some more and get a few extra p'7s for failures ect... but at 30.00 a piece, well I may have a problem if the dx's p7's wont work for these direct drive 3d mags...Thanx for all the info

Yep, $30 each is pretty high - I don't think BL have changed their prices..... probably since they were first posted! However, they are a higher output BIN than the two you mentioned. C BIN would be one step lower at 700-800 lumens at the emitter, and the B BIN would be rated at 570-700 lumens.

Kaidomain do have some much cheaper P7s - rated 'D' for brightness and 'J' for Vf, but with a different tint to the Britelumens ones. Not sure quite what the tint would be like on these ones, as I haven't used them myself.

Bare

Star mounted

I got my P7s from Britelumens - hence my recommendation - but at that time, KD didn't have any D bin P7s. It does make a big difference in pricing - three bare emitters from KD will only set you back a couple more dollars than one from Britelumens.

i used 2 different bins for dd with 3xD nimh cells, both worked just fine, as long as your current doesn't go over 2,8a.
one p7 was 900lm bin (don't remember the later), bought it with the light, and other was 570-700lm, from dx. for 3x nimh cells vf shouldn't be much of a consern. it will not stay as high as no load v, it will sag. i even ran it from 18650, wotrked just fine.
current however, can be as high as 4amps on freshly charged D nimh, so i used to give them a day to rest before using them

If the LED was rated up to 900 lumens, I'm sure that it would have been a D bin.

SSC's info sheets (current as of November 2010) do make reference to the future release of an E bin P7 rated at 900-1100 emitter lumens, but as of yet, I've not seen them listed as available anywhere.

yea, E bin is almost a myth. never seen one, never head anyone have it.

Thanx for ALL the info guys! Especially Steph! Now I know what to do...... Thanx again

No problem at all.

The good thing about the SSC P7 is that they are available to buy in specific voltage bins which makes them ideal for direct driving.

You want the brightest available "D" flux bin and "J" voltage bin

With the XM-L you will need to experiment with various resistors and an ammeter.